Wednesday, 22 September 2010

Didn't quite feel like it ...

It’s funny, isn’t it? All Summer it seems like I’ve been really revved-up about walking. With the prospect of long days, plenty of outings and a wonderful two weeks in the Swiss Alps to cap it all, it felt like the excitement would never fade. But last weekend, despite our best intentions, when the time came it seemed we just couldn’t find our usual enthusiasm.

I’m not really sure quite why we both felt that way. Usually, if one of us feels a bit under-motivated, the other will cajole them into going and, more often than not, we end up having a good trip. But this time the malaise appeared to affect both of us equally. In part it may have been that we were feeling a little bit under the weather, although this doesn’t explain it fully.

The thing is, although you imagine you could never want a break from walking, I suspect that is exactly what was needed. After all, most of the time, it seems an age between weekends or holidays and, having just enjoyed a fantastic trip, it is often only the thought of next adventure that keep you going through the week.

In the end, we spent an hour or so on a little local circuit that was really nice in the afternoon sunshine, and at least provided a modicum of exercise in an otherwise sedentary weekend. Hopefully, the break will have done us good and we will be ready for the Autumn delights to come.

Thursday, 2 September 2010

The Howgills From Sedbergh - approx 12.75 miles

Map:

OS Explorer OL19 The Howgills & Upper Eden Valley

Route:

Sedbergh – Howgill Lane – Winder – Arrant Haw – Calders – The Calf – Bush Howe – Breaks Head – Fell Head – Howgill – Howgill Lane - Sedbergh

Weather:

A beautiful day; warm in the sunshine but with a cool, strong breeze.

After the long drive up yesterday and a half-day circuit round Deepdale, the Occupation Road and Dent by way of a warm-up, a promising forecast had us looking for a good, high-level walk with cracking views. In this respect the Howgills tick all the boxes, with far reaching views, sufficient challenge in the climbs and, hopefully, a little peace and quiet on a Bank Holiday weekend.

We designed our route to take us a bit off the beaten track: not quite pathless tracts, admittedly, but certainly less-well-used ways crossing the access land north of The Calf with around 840m of total ascent. Leaving Sedbergh by gently rising Howgill Lane, we gained a little height before accessing the fells via the track on the lower slopes near Ash-hining from where it was a steady pull of around a mile up to the summit of Winder.


Despite it’s modest spot height of 473m, the views are commanding. On a beautiful day such as this, Morecambe Bay and the central Lakes are clearly visible to the west, with Dentdale, Garsdale and the fells of the western Yorkshire Dales National Park to the south and east. We lingered for a few moments to absorb the views before making the gentle descent on a soft, peaty path to the saddle below Arant Haw.

Skirting round the east flank of Arant Haw we could see down into the Rawthay Valley and beyond to the bulk of Baugh Fell. From the narrow ridge marked as Rowantree Grains a short, steep climb, reminiscent of the Alps, brought us out by the cairn on Calders, from where we paused a moment to look back at Arant Haw and the deep gully of Bram Rigg Beck.


A relatively level path led along the plateau-like summit to The Calf, at 676m the highest point in the Howgills. The first couple of tops had been fairly quiet but after Calders the profusion of paths leading to the summit from all quarters had deposited a sizeable crowd by the trig point.

We moved on a few metres to find a quieter spot for lunch from where we could gauge the lie of the land for the next section. Around us the panorama encompassed Morecambe Bay, the Lakes, the northern Howgills, the Upper Eden Valley, the Pennines and the fells of western YDNP - miles in every direction - whilst ahead, our route stretched along an undulating ridge to the north west.

It’s fair to say we could have spent ages gazing around us but, all too soon, we had to continue. A spongy path led easily over White Fell Head and Bush Howe before the sharp drop into Windscarth Wyke. To our left, the wild amphitheatre of Crooked Ashmere Gills and Long Rigg Beck snaking away westwards below felt huge, as if part of a larger landscape entirely.


Then, after a short but breathtaking 90m climb to Breaks Head, we reached the start of the enticing ridge joining it to Fell Head. Swinging westwards, with the Lake District plumb in front of us, easy walking took us along the ridge and over Fell Head, accompanied by wonderful views and a sense of exhilaration all the way.

After a quick rest stop, a steep descent brought us to Whin’s End from where a contour path heading south and west round the lower slopes of Brown Moor to meet the lane at Howgill. From here, a quick look back revealed some of the drama of the last 3 miles.


In other circumstance we would have linked with the Dales Way at Crook of Lune Bridge for our return journey, a more satisfying way of completing the circuit. But time was against us, and the call of a quenching pot of tea and Chinese food proved too great a lure. So we headed back to Sedbergh along the lane, watching the farmers taking advantage of a few dry days to gather in the hay. Finally, we rounded the slopes below Winder and dropped down into Sedbergh at the end of superb day.

Friday, 20 August 2010

Grindelwald, Switzerland 24th July to 7th August 2010

Grindelwald, Switzerland 24th July to 7th August 2010

2 weeks based in Grindelwald in the Bernese Oberland, making use of local transport – trains, buses, gondolas and summer lifts – to complete a series of daywalks. This was our first visit to this area, so we intended to make the most of it discovering the meadows, woods and high mountain scenery of the Jungfrau region, all watched over by the infamous North Face of the Eiger.

Map:

Hallwag Outdoor Map 17 – Grindelwald, Wengen & Murren 1:50,000

Guidebook:

The Bernese Alps by Kev Reynolds (Cicerone).

Sunday 25th July 2010

Day 1: Grindelwald Orientation – approx 3.50 miles

Route:


Hotel – Grindelwald Centre – Grund - Hotel

Weather:

Bright and warm all day, with a little cloud.

After the previous day’s journey, a mad dash to catch the last train from Geneva airport and our unexpectedly late arrival in Grindelwald we fancied a slow start, so decided to spend most of the day getting our bearings. First impressions of the town were good: there are plenty of shops – food, gear, souvenirs, etc – as well as a variety of lifts, gondolas, bus and rail links to all parts, and a selection of restaurants to cover a range of tastes and budgets, bearing in mind this is Switzerland (and tourist Switzerland at that) and nothing is particularly budget.

The main town, including the adjoining suburb of Grund, lies roughly east to west along the valley and runs to approximately 2 miles end to end. We had a wander down the main street to familiarise ourselves with the whereabouts of the local grocers and bakers and the location of the transport we were hoping to use, then bought a few food essentials, a map and a timetable, and went back to the hotel to do some serious planning.

Monday 26th July 2010

Day 2: Grosse Scheidegg to Bussalp – approx 10.11 miles


Route:

Grosse Scheidegg – First (Top) – Waldspitz – Bussalp

Total Ascent: 669m / Total Descent: 838m

Weather:

Overcast with some low cloud and sunny spells.

For our first walk proper we caught the bus to Grosse Scheidegg, a 30 minute journey up the winding alpine road towards Meiringen, rising through woods and meadows to the 1962m pass at the foot of the Wetterhorn.

No sooner had we got off the bus than we saw a fox searching for food by the mountain restaurant, and seemingly quite tame. Our route headed northwards along the ridge dividing the Grindelwald valley from the Reichenbachtal on what is known locally as the Höhenweg 2400. The first section follows a track as far as the Kuhmattenschärm where, shortly afterwards, the path breaks off to the right to contour round the side of hills towards First, crossing a couple of the numerous mountain streams as it does. We caught sight of a Marmot here.


Although somewhat cloudy, the views away to our left across to the Wetterhorn and the Schreckhorn were hinting at their magnificence. A short climb brought us to First, the top station of the gondola from Grindelwald, where we rested and had a drink. We sat out on the sun terrace watching the swirling cloud veil the massive peaks opposite and considering our options as there are many possible routes from here.

Given the conditions we decided on a relatively low-level contour round to Bussalp, beginning with a sneaky path down the cliff face below First, then across towards Bachläger and on to Waldspitz connecting with the lower Höhenweg 2000. From the path we could see directly into the gorge of the Oberer Grindelwaldgletscher.


The path led through mixed woods and pasture and we made steady progress round the side of the mountain. We took advantage of an improvement in the weather to eat our lunch, sitting on a make-shift bench whilst soaking up the sunshine.

A steep-ish zig zag path led us up to a grassy spur at Feld where a flock of Choughs wheeled overhead. From here we could see our final destination, the mountain restaurant at Bussalp, a 45 minute descent below. After a stop for refreshments, we caught the bus back into Grindelwald reflecting on an excellent introductory walk.

Tuesday 27th July 2010

Day 3: Grindelwald and the Höhenweg 1400 – approx 8.64 miles

Route:


Grindelwald – Mühlebach - Höhenweg 1400 – Aellfluh – Abbachfall – Tuftbach – Terrassenweg – Mühlebach – Grindelwald

Total Ascent: 585m / Total Descent: 644m

Weather:

Raining in the morning, improving to sunny spells in the afternoon.

A wet morning: we opted for a low-level walk to explore the hillside just to the north of Grindelwald below First and Bussalp. We followed the winding road towards Grosse Scheidegg, rising gently as we left town. At Mühlebach a metalled track led up to meet the Höhenweg 1400 path below Bort.

The early drizzle had settled into a steady rain, and, despite being relatively warm, waterproofs were donned. As it’s name suggests, the path contours round the hill on around the 1400m mark, mainly through lovely pine woods. Mid morning the weather began to improve. We stopped for a break at a viewpoint just above the Aellfluh hut (currently closed due to fire damage) and spent a few minutes gazing over the valley to where the massive peaks of the Shreckhorn and the Eiger were trying to shed their cloudy crowns.


Continuing, we dropped quite steeply to a track near Sattelhalten before meeting the Bussalp road where we saw a Black Squirrel and a Kestrel. Aiming downhill we soon reached Abbachfall – a waterfall found a short distance along a side road.

Back at the Bussalp road a well-positioned bench provided the ideal spot for a leisurely picnic and a bit of Eiger-watching, the elusive summit deigning to show itself clearly for the fist time since our arrival. It’s impossible to get a sense of scale from the photographs, but the summit towers almost 3,000m above the valley floor.


Heading back towards Grindelwald a maze of paths threaded between houses. At Tuftbach we picked up the Terrassenweg, another contour path/road a bit lower down the hillside that skims the top of the town, back to Mühlebach and then the hotel.

Wednesday 28th July 2010

Day 4: The Eiger Trail – approx 10.19 miles

Route:


Kleine Scheidegg – Eigergletscher Station – Eiger Trail – Above Alpiglen – Boneren – Gletscherschlucht - Hotel

Total Ascent: 536m / Total Descent: 1292m

Weather:

Overcast but with high cloud base in the morning, drizzle in the afternoon.

With the prospect of improved weather over the next few days, we decide to arm ourselves with a Jungfraubahnen Pass - £95 for 6 consecutive days of unlimited travel on trains, buses and lifts in the area. It’s good value if you intend to make multiple journeys - Swiss transport is highly efficient but eye-wateringly expensive at full price!

We took the train up to Kleine Scheidegg, a clutch of hotels, restaurants and railway buildings perched in a saddle below the Eiger and the Mönch, with connections to the Jungfraujoch and the Lauterbrunnen valley. Understandably it’s a very busy place, so, while the crowds dispersed, we stopped for a coffee, taking time to soak up the atmosphere.


Firstly we headed up to the Eigergletscher station, some 50 minutes away, to pick up the Eiger Trail, a clear mountain path that skirts along the base of the famous North Face. As it was a nice morning, the trail was packed – unsurprising, really, since connections with the mountain railway at Kleine Scheidegg and Alpiglen makes it one of the easiest mountain trails to access.

Despite it’s popularity it is an interesting walk. The first part traverses below the mighty North Face just under the lower cliffs. At one point, a board shows a picture detailing the route of the first successful attempt by Heckmair et al, plus some of the other pioneering routes, and a number of the key features can be made out. Below, thousands of pounds worth of top-notch jackets and clothing were watching on – my 10-year-old Craghoppers top and Lowe Alpine trousers looking a bit shabby by comparison. We ate lunch looking out across the valley to Bussalp and beyond, with the Eiger looming over our shoulders and the Wetterhorn and Grosse Scheidegg away to our left.


Soon after lunch the path split: one way leading down to Alpiglen, the other, which we took, continuing to contour along the lower slopes of the Mittellegi ridge, loosing height all the time. Cloud had been accumulating all through the day: now the rain began as we entered the trees near Boneren prior to the steep descent into the gorge of the Unterer Grindelwaldgletscher.

A short metal ladder, easily negotiated, brought us out on to moraine, from where the path led down, once more through trees, to Gletscherschlucht where the glacial river emerges from the narrow defile. Pleased to be down after around 1,300m of descent, a 30 minute road walk brought us back to our hotel for a welcome rest, dinner and a drink.

Thursday 29th July 2010

Day 5: Lauterbrunnen & Trümmelbach Falls – approx 5.50 miles

Route:


Lauterbrunnen – Trümmelbach Falls – Staubbachfall - Lauterbrunnen

Total Ascent: 98m / Total Descent: 123m

Weather:

Heavy rain for much of the day.

We awoke to a wet scene – heavy rain and low cloud – which looked thoroughly set for the day. So, after breakfast, we decided to take the train, via Kleine Scheidegg and Wengen, over to Lauterbrunnen in the next valley. It was a slow journey, but one which proved pleasing enough given the conditions.

We planned to walk to the Trümmelbach Falls, a trip of around 2.5 miles each way, figuring these should be good after so much recent rain. The Lauterbrunnental is the valley of the Weisse Lütschine, a river fed by myriad waterfalls that plummet down the steep valley sides. At Trümmelbach, the water has cut deep into the valley wall so that the falls are almost cave-like, and the water roils and swirls as it crashes from chamber to chamber. Seeing as we were already pretty wet from the rain, the spray from the falls wasn’t unduly annoying providing a tough test for our waterproofs.





Afterwards, we had soup at a nearby café, and walked back towards Lauterbrunnen to catch the train back to Grindelwald, still in heavy rain: the waterfalls that the valley is so famous for now streaming down the steep-sided walls.

En route we made a short diversion to see the Stubbachfall – one of the lacy falls that can you walk behind. The additional soaking went almost unnoticed.

Friday 30th July 2010

Day 6: Männlichen (Top) to Grindelwald – approx 12.48 miles

Route:


Männlichen (Top) – Kleine Scheidegg – Alpiglen – Brandegg – Grund - Hotel

Total Ascent: 189m / Total Descent: 1191m

Weather:

Heavy rain early morning, gradually improving to a nice afternoon.

We awoke, yet again, to a downpour. So we lingered over breakfast and decided to spend some time reading before setting off in the hope of better weather. An hour or so later, we donned waterproof gear and set off for Grund to catch the lift up to Männlichen at 2,225m on the ridge a 30 minute ride above the valley. Rising through the clouds, the expected views of the Eiger were non-existent but we saw and heard a Marmot on the hillside below us.

From the top we took the popular path southwards towards Kleine Scheidegg, surrounded by mist and low cloud. The rain was trying to ease, and tantalising glimpses of the mountains on both sides of the valley began to appear.


At Kleine Scheidegg we stopped for coffee before continuing on our descent towards Alpiglen. The temperature, pretty cold at Männlichen, was gradually rising. Up to our right, the black and white face of the Eiger materialised ghost-like out of the cloud revealing a fresh dusting of snow.

We reached Alpiglen shortly before 2.00pm and, with further rain in the air, we decided a good lunch at the Berghotel Alpiglen was in order. Very soon, two substantial plates of Rösti were placed in front of us and we tucked in hungrily.


After lunch, in another blustery shower, we set off for Brandegg, half an hour or so further down the hill. By the time we got there, yet another about face of the weather had left us overdressed in warm sunshine, and we were rapidly shedding layers. A maze of tracks and metalled footpaths led steeply down into Grund, now bathed in lovely sunshine. We tried a different way back to the hotel, but inadvertently found ourselves walking through an industrial area – a route we shall avoid in future. Still, it didn’t spoil an otherwise reasonable walk well-suited to the wet weather.

We had dinner in our room, sitting on our balcony to enjoy the now-beautiful evening. It was amazing just how spectacular the mountains looked in good light – the first time we had really seen them so – with a crystal clear Fiescherhorn and the alpenglow on the Eiger following as the sun sank below the skyline. We hoped this augured well for tomorrow.




Saturday 31st July 2010

Day 7: Jungfraujoch, the Mönchsjochhütte & Männlichen – approx 8.50 miles

Route:


Jungfraujoch to the Mönchsjochhütte and back / Kleine Scheidegg to Männlichen / Grund to the Hotel

Total Ascent: 428m / Total Descent: 173m

Weather:

Beautiful, sunny weather all day.

At last, wonderful weather and the prospect of a fine day. We decided immediately on waking to make our trip up to the Jungfraujoch – the classic rail journey through the Eiger to the highest railway station in Europe at 3,454m – which requires a high cloud base to get the best views.

After a quick breakfast, and packed in preparation, we boarded the 8.17am train in Grindelwald, changing at Kleine Scheidegg for the Jungfraujoch. It’s not a quick journey – in addition to the normal stations, the train also stops for passengers to get out and look at the views from inside the mountain from a window in the North Face of the Eiger and across the glaciers at the Eismeer station.

So it was getting on for mid-morning by the time we got to the Jungfraujoch. Needless to say, on such a morning, it was very busy. We had a coffee while the crowds abated then started our look round. The views are superb, out over the Grindelwald valley, across to the Jungfrau and Mönch summits and south to the vast Aletsch Glacier.


After a quick tour round the station, we took the snowy path across to the Mönchsjochhütte (3,657m) about one hour away, a good first test for our Yaktrax which seemed to do the trick nicely, where we had a proper Alpine lunch – Goulash soup and beer!



After lunch we retraced our steps to the Jungfraujoch and caught a busy train down to Kleine Scheidegg for about 3.00pm. It was still a beautiful day, so we walked over to the Männlichen lift, pausing along the way to admire the fabulous views back to the Eiger, surrounded by Alpine Choughs.


We took the lift down to Grund and walked back to the Hotel for dinner while the shadows creeping up the pinky-orange-tinted Fiescherwand marked the second successive grand sunset in a row.

Sunday 1st August 2010

Day 8: First to Schynige Platte – approx 11.29 miles

Route:


First (Top) – Bachsee – Faulhorn – Männdlenen – Schynige Platte.

Total Ascent: 750m / Total Descent: 1039m

Weather:

Beautiful, sunny weather all day.

Another fine start and great forecast persuaded us to tackle one of the classic walks of the area. It can be walked in either direction, but we fancied getting going as early as possible as well as giving ourselves more options should the weather deteriorate.

By 9.00am we were riding the gondola up to First at 2,167m. It was sunny and warm as we set off, T-shirt weather from the outset. A wide track led to Bachsee, bounded on either side by Alpine meadows. Behind us, stupendous views opened up across to the high mountains and the glaciers beyond.


After about an hour we reached the alpine lakes at Bachsee, a popular viewpoint and understandably so with the backdrop of huge mountains reflected in the waters. We had a short break before commencing the 90 minute climb to the summit of the Faulhorn.



The path skirts round the north shore of the lake before rising steeply towards the saddle of Gassenboden, from where it’s about 30 minutes ending in a sharp climb to the 2,681m summit. We had lunch here (Rösti & soup, plus beer) sitting on the sun terrace soaking up the sun and the amazing views of the Wetterhorn, the Schreckhorn, the Finsteraarhorn, the Fiescherhorn, the Eiger, the Mönch and the Jungfrau and more. What a spot!


All too soon, we had to move on. The next stage was the one-hour stretch along the Winteregg ridge to the Weberhütte at Männdlenen. To the north, views opened up to the large lakes of Brienze and Thun way down in the valley below us. By now it was quite hot, so we had another refreshment break of about 30 minutes at Männdlenen. Below the hut, the path doubled back on itself contouring round the ridge high above the small, unnaturally green Sägistalsee lake.



After traversing the Sägistal, the path dropped down and, to the accompaniment of numerous Marmot whistles, we began a long contour round the southern side of the Loucherhorn, skimming the top of the treeline. Once more, magical views again opened up to the south - the glacier-bedecked Bernese giants in a breathtaking panorama.


With the Schynige Platte station in sight, we reached a junction of paths and took the alternative Panoramaweg, the cliffs plunging away in a sheer drop to the Brienzersee 1,500m below us. In an awesome panorama, more mountains could be seen away to the west across the Thunersee. It is certainly a great walk, deserving of good, clear weather to get those wonderful views at their best.

Half an hour or so later, we reached the Schynige Platte station and caught the train for the long descent down to Wilderswil and the connection to Grindelwald. The line still uses some of the original 1890’s stock, maintained and restored, and, in places, attains a 1 in 4 gradient during the 1,420m descent.

Later, we had pasta and a glass of wine sitting out on our balcony. As night came we had the unusual spectacle of the fireworks celebrating Swiss National Day trying to compete against the thunder and lightning that now enveloped the high peaks.

Monday 2nd August 2010

Day 9: Männlichen (Top) to Wengen – approx 14.84 miles

Route:


Männlichen (Top) – Kleine Scheidegg – Eigergletscher Station – Moraine Path – Wengernalp Station – Wengen

Total Ascent: 300m / Total Descent: 1260m

Weather:

Cloudy and often wet.

After two good days of weather, last night’s thunder and lightning signalled a change to wetter conditions. Morning brought high cloud and a little weak sunshine, so we took the gondola up to Männlichen with the aim of walking to Wengen.

The first stretch took us on the now familiar path to Kleine Scheidegg - this time more atmospheric as cloud billowed up from the valleys - with only occasional glimpses of the mountains through the mist on both sides.

As usual, Kleine Scheidegg was busy so we pushed on towards the Eigergletscher Station (2,320m). The cloud had been thickening and getting darker all morning and, about 10 minutes before we reached the station, the rain began. We decided on a quick drink stop to see whether conditions would improve. The rain did back off slightly, but the low cloud remained.


So, with waterproofs on, we crossed to the Moraine path running under the glaciers below the Jungfraujoch. Almost everything was obscured in the fog, but we could look up and see the streams pouring down the steep, glaciated rock walls.


After a while we dropped below the cloud and, somewhat unexpectedly, the sun came out for a few moments so we stopped for lunch. But, by the time we were crossing the pasture to Wengernalp, the cloud had rolled in again and, although the views were hidden, we did see a couple of deer racing down the slope ahead of us.

We could have bailed out at Wengernalp but decided to push on to Wengen, an hour or so further on. Ten minutes down the track the cloud thickened again, and down came the rain, almost immediately settling in to a steady downpour. Even though we had full waterproofs on (or at least lightweight, summer waterproofs) the rain managed to penetrate and soon we were properly soaked. About 30 minutes away from Wengen the rain relented long enough for us to dry out somewhat, then another downpour swept in just before we reached shelter, providing yet another soaking.

From Wengen we took the gondola to Männlichen to connect with the one down the other side of the ridge to Grund. The half-hour walk back to the Hotel provided ample opportunity for a further soaking, so we stopped for Pizza on the way back to lift our spirits. Finally, we got back to our room ready to shed all our soggy clothing, get some cozy, dry kit on and make some warming coffee. Despite the weather we had enjoyed the walk – in better conditions the sight of the mountains, glaciers and waterfalls, plus the views into the Lauterbrunnental would have been superb – and would definitely recommend the route.

Tuesday 3rd August 2010

Day 10: Itramen, Brandegg & Grund – approx 5.95 miles

Route:


Egg Kehrplatz – Brandegg – Grund - Hotel

Total Ascent: 314m / Total Descent: 417m

Weather:

Cloudy and wet to start, improving in the afternoon.

As anticipated, yesterday’s poor weather spilled over into today with a heavy drizzle greeting us over breakfast. However, the sky looked as if better might be to come, so we decided to read for an hour and see if conditions improved. As it turned out, they did, so we set off mid morning to catch the bus to Itramen on the slopes below the Männlichen lift.

We followed the road uphill for a while, branching off along lanes, tracks and paths towards Brandegg. At a junction of paths we opted for the higher route that turned out to be a good choice – a lovely path contouring through woodland and crossing a rushing stream.


The rain was never far away, but waterproofs kept the worst off and soon we arrived at the Restaurant Brandegg. With Rösti on the menu, choosing lunch was simplicity itself.

The sun was out and it was warming up nicely as we set off again. Another mix of lanes and tracks led through the wooded slopes and pastures, and the tinkling sound of cowbells filled the air. Instead of a direct route back we chose a different way down, eventually reaching Grund in warm sunshine. A detour through the town centre allowed us to restock vital supplies on the way back to the hotel.

As an aside, I read the following quote in Dervla Murphy’s “Where The Indus Is Young”:

“Each day I seem to feel more deeply content and inwardly stronger, as though the uncomplicated joy of travelling through these mountains were a form of nourishment”

After a week in these Swiss mountains, I can’t think of a better way of putting it!

Wednesday 4th August 2010

Day 11: Grosse Scheidegg to Grindelwald – approx 15.69 miles

Route:


Grosse Scheidegg – First (Top) – Bachsee – Faulhorn – Bussalp - Grindelwald

Total Ascent: 719m / Total Descent: 1647m

Weather:

Mixed conditions: generally fine but overcast at times and better in the afternoon.

With decent conditions predicted, we had a lengthy walk in mind to make up for yesterday’s shorter effort. The early conditions looked promising so we caught the 8.55am bus to Grosse Scheidegg. In fact two buses were sent, the first being full of walkers heading that way on the strength of a good forecast.

We disembarked at Grosse Scheidegg, as did most of the other passengers, so we hefted our sacks and made a quick start to get ahead of the group. Today’s route was a combination of paths we had done before with some new bits too, starting with the Höhenweg 2400 round to First.


Although there were good views across to the Schreckhorn and the Eiger it was noticeable that the cloud was beginning to build, and by the time we reached First the views were already coming and going in the mist. Next was the 90 minute stretch via Bachsee and Gassenboden to Faulhorn, still a good walk despite the low cloud.

At 2,681m, the Faulhorn is a modest summit by local standards, but its situation on the ridge between the Bernese giants to the south and Lakes Thun and Brienze to the north confers it with magnificent views all round. The Berghaus, sited just below the summit, is a splendid place from which to admire these views and indulge in a spot of lunch too.


The cloud lifted long enough for a photograph, but soon blew back in and, with it, the temperature dropped. We finished our lunch rather hastily, piling on layers of extra clothing to beat the sudden chill. The route down involved a short backtrack to the saddle at Gassenboden, then the steeply descending path to Bussalp. Soon we dropped below the cloud again and into warm sunshine, accompanied by fine views of the Eiger ahead.

Bussalp presented us with a mild dilemma – whether to catch the bus to Grindelwald or walk back down. As the weather was as good as any time during the day, we opted for the latter, allowing us to walk off the cake we had just consumed at the restaurant.

The descent was easy enough, with a number of different routes possible. We just followed paths down hill, taking a short break at the same bench we had visited near Abbachfall a few days earlier, and reflecting on a great walk.

Thursday 5th August 2010

Day 12: Terrassenweg – approx 4.75 miles

Route:


Hotel – Terrassenweg - Hotel

Total Ascent: 102m / Total Descent: 102m

Weather:

Wet most of the day, slightly better in the afternoon.

Today had been forecast as a thoroughly wet day for most of the week, and the rain duly arrived in buckets. After a leisurely breakfast and an hour’s reading, we decided to use the opportunity to do our holiday shopping. Grindelwald has plenty of shops selling food, souvenirs, outdoor gear and chocolate, so ample opportunity for browsing and, occasionally, buying.

Back at the hotel, we had lunch and decided to go a short walk. On such an uninspiring afternoon the Terrassenweg – the road/path that skims the top of the town - seemed a good option. A couple of hours at most, at least we got some fresh air and worked up a bit of an appetite for Pizza.

Friday 6th August 2010

Day 13: Hotel Wetterhorn & Bäregg – approx 10.84 miles

Route:


Hotel Wetterhorn – Chalet Milchbach – Pfingstegg – Bäregg – Hotel Wetterhorn - Hotel

Total Ascent: 878m / Total Descent: 1005m

Weather:

Mixed, wet at first then improving.

There was a good forecast for our last day, but somehow it failed to materialise - far from it, in fact. Breakfast was yet again accompanied by heavy rain and low cloud, so we delayed our departure by an hour or so in the hope of some improvement.


A good choice, as it turned out, because, by the time we had taken the 9.55 bus to the Hotel Wetterhorn, the skies were dry and the sun trying to shine. We took the broad track from the car park, crossing the brisk Schwartze Lütschine by a wide wooden bridge. Two paths led towards the Chalet Milchbach – we took the left-hand option with views into the gorge at the mouth of the Oberer Grindelwaldgletscher – a small restaurant 120m higher up the hillside.

Our path contoured round the lower slopes of the Mättenburg in a lovely mix of woodland and open mountainside, with Grindelwald laid out in the green valley bottom. At one point, to avoid an obvious avalanche gully, the path passed through a tunnel lit by solar-powered lighting.

A short climb led up to the cable car station of Pfingstegg where we took a short break. In the improving weather we shed a few layers, not realising the next section of the path was washed by a number of waterfalls. We contoured round into the cleft of the Unterer Grindelwaldgletscher on a rising path clinging to the steep side of the gorge wall. Regular soakings added to the fun.


To our right we could look down into the step gorge, whilst ahead of us the vast north wall and glacial basin of the Fiescherhorn loomed into view. Around an hour and a quarter from Pfingstegg, we negotiated a short steep section and reached the newly-built mountain restaurant at Bäregg (replacing the Stieregg hut that fell into the gorge in 2005 when global warming caused the moraine it was built on to collapse) spectacularly situated on a rocky promontory overlooking the glaciers, surrounded by high mountains. It is possible to walk beyond Bäregg to the Schreckhornhütte, 3 hours and 1000m climb further along a crumbling, protected path, but not today given the mixed conditions and lack of time.


We had a nice Rösti for lunch, but cooling conditions meant we didn’t linger. Heading back to Pfingstegg we could see right into the gorge.


Passing Pfingstegg, we retraced our steps to the Chalet Milchbach - where we stopped for a drink and had a chat with the old lady serving there – and back to the Hotel Wetterhorn. Finally, as we had time and the weather was good, we walked back down into Grindelwald, making the most of our last afternoon.

All in all, a very good walk – in fact one of the best of the holiday, with great views and spectacular scenery, and a perfect lesson in the process of glaciation - and one thoroughly befitting our last outing. Although we were sad to be leaving it was impossible to feel too downhearted after such a great walk.

Thursday, 15 July 2010

A Quick One (or Two) .....

This weekend, like last, we were busy entertaining, so, as well as all the usual chores that needed doing everything had to be ship-shape in time for our friends’ arrival, with the kettle full and dinner preparations well underway. Even though I was all-to-easily distracted by the appearance of a pair of Spotted Flycatchers in the garden, everything was ready in plenty of time and we were looking forward to enjoying a relaxing couple of days.

However, this did mean our scope for walking was slightly truncated so we had to adjust our plans accordingly. With only an hour or so to spare, one of the most rewarding objectives is Roundton Hill, a modest top with a big personality that punches well above its weight.

From the Nature Reserve car park the path zig-zagged steeply up the hill where far-reaching views can be found from its craggy summit. The recent lengthy spell of fine, warm weather was forecast to break after the weekend and cloud was already building in preparation, but even on such a day the 360º panorama included the Long Mynd, the Stiperstones, Corndon Hill, the Berwyns and the Kerry Ridgeway, with Snowdonia and the Brecon Beacons visible in better conditions.


In a strengthening breeze and with the threat of rain in the air we descended the steep path on north side of the hill and joined the lane that led back round towards the Nature Reserve. Later that evening, we went into Bishop’s Castle and stumbled across the Real Ale Festival – an unexpected surprise to find an even wider selection of excellent beers than usual.

Next day, after a lazy morning, we walked a short route from Little Stretton to Carding Mill Valley and back. It was sunny again, and hot; the humidity only just held in check by the breeze. But it was good to be out and getting some fresh air, added to which we discovered one or two new paths that we might be able to incorporate into a longer circuit in future; a nice relaxing couple of days to see us through the week ahead.

Tuesday, 6 July 2010

Second Time Around

Sunday morning, and once again we were in need of a modest walk. So what better than another spin round the same walk as last week?

It is often commented upon how rewarding it can be to experience the same walk at different times of the year. But we only did this one seven days ago – could anything have changed in such a short space of time? It was gearing up to be another warm day with blue skies and fluffy clouds, but we were up and off early despite having been barbequing and carousing until the wee small hours. A noticeable breeze helped to quickly blow away any lingering cobwebs, and we were soon into our stride enjoying the early fresh conditions.

The most obvious change from last week was that there was much more growth everywhere. Fields of leguminous crops were now up to 5ft or more in places, and the wheat and barley were much more advanced. The few overgrown sections were tangled even thicker, with one stretch lined hip-high with nettles and brambles. Grass fields had been cropped for haymaking - another sign that summer had arrived and testament to the dry spell we have been experiencing.

In fact we have had little in the way of meaningful rain for several weeks now, and the ground is beginning to suffer. In one stretch, where the path through fields of wheat had been cleared by spraying, deep cracks in the earth an inch or more wide were clearly visible.

An unexpected benefit of the mown fields was the sighting of hares. Denied their usual cover we spied at least 2 in one place and 5 in another, right out in the open and clearly visible. For several minutes we watched from a distance what appeared to be a family group playing in the sunshine – special moments indeed.

So, in the space of one week, it seems as though we have swapped the tail-end of spring for the start of summer.

Rutland: Belton to Braunston – approx 9.00 miles

Saturday 1st July 2010

Rutland: Belton to Braunston – approx 9.00 miles

Map:

OS Explorer 234 Rutland Water, Stamford & Oakham

Starting Grid Ref:

SK816012

Route:

Belton – Leighfield Way – Leigh Lodge – Prior’s Coppice – Wood Lane – Braunston in Rutland – Church – South Lodge Farm – Bridle Way – Bluestones Farm - Belton

Services:

Pubs: Belton and Braunston
Cafés & Kiosks: None
Shops: Belton
Transport: Belton and Braunston

Weather:

A beautiful, bright morning, with blue sky and a little fluffy white cloud, becoming increasingly warm as the day developed.

We arrived in Belton-in-Rutland nice and promptly to take advantage of the cooler weather of the early morning. It was already quite warm with the prospect of temperatures up into the high 20º’s Celsius; in full sun it would be 30º plus, plenty warm enough for walking. So this easy circuit of around 9 miles would be ideal given that we had other obligations for later in the day.


We left Belton, passing the church and the war memorial, and heading north along the Leighfield Way, a short, marked route, linking Belton with Oakham some 7 miles distant. Branching right at the road fork we followed the lane signposted to Lambley Lodge. There are dozens of such lanes in Rutland, gradually petering out into the countryside. Soon lane would became track, track would cede to bridle way, and bridle way to path; a couple of fields later and the process is reversed as the next village reached.


The lane rose gently over the first mile or so. Soon tarmac became bridle way with softer going underfoot, steadily climbing until, cresting the brow of the first ridge, a wide vista opened up in front of us, a vale ringed by low hills. Rutland County Council adopted the Latin motto “Multum in parvo” – literally “Much in Little” – and this is certainly true of the landscape in these parts, a perfect example of rolling English countryside.

Between hedges high and thick with foliage, we dropped down along a cinder track to cross the infant River Chater by the impressive farmstead of Leigh Lodge. Although slow-moving, the river here teemed with fish - heron heaven I would imagine. After climbing diagonally northwest across a field we took a brief drink stop and carried on across the fields past Prior’s Coppice and down towards Braunston, a pretty village straddling the River Gwash dating back to at least mediaeval times and steeped in history and home to the Braunston Goddess – a curious carved stone effigy with similarities to the Sheela-na-gig or Divine Hag of Celtic religion that may have been to ward off evil.


A convenient bench by the church provided an excellent spot for a snack. Our route continued through the churchyard past the unusual church with its low, square tower and oddly-mounted clock. Several fields were crossed; some with ripening crops, some scruffy with grass and nettles, and we spotted several Peewit and a Green Woodpecker. After passing behind South Lodge Farm the path rose again to the ridge and we briefly joined a bridle way heading east, stopping for lunch by a gate offering a view back over the vale, with Braunston lying in the bottom.

While we were resting, a small band of horse-trekkers jogged by, reminding us that, once again, we had been largely untroubled by other people. This seems slightly odd as although the high proportion of tracks, lanes and bridle ways in these parts might not be to everyone’s taste, there is no doubting the charm of the scenery, so typical of Middle England and in many ways the rival of the Cotswolds.


We carried on in a generally southerly direction, soon joining the Leicestershire Round (a route devised to mark the centenary of the Leicestershire Footpath Association) and re-crossed the River Chater. A short pull past Launde Park Wood brought us to the top of the hill where we paused to catch our breath in the warm sunshine.

With Belton’s attractive houses hunkered round the small rise ahead of us, our path then dropped to meet the lane at Bluestones Farm, from where it was an easy stroll back into the village. All in all, it had proved a good walk – perhaps with a little too much on lane and track to be ideal, but with plenty in the way of views and interest to offset that – ideal for a good long morning or, split either side of a leisurely lunch in Braunston, an easy day.

Friday, 2 July 2010

Proud Songsters

Came across this poem by Thomas Hardy

Proud Songsters

The thrushes sing as the sun is going,
And the finches whistle in ones and pairs,
And as it gets dark loud nightingales
In bushes
Pipe, as they can when April wears,
As if all Time were theirs.

These are brand-new birds of twelve-months’ growing,
Which a year ago, or less than twain,
No finches were, nor nightingales,
Nor thrushes,
But only particles of grain,
And earth, and air, and rain.