The Le Puy Route - Part 9

The Camino Experience in Miniature - Les Tournesols du Gers to Arzacq-Arraziguet

  

Day 7: Les Tournesol du Gers to Nogaro – 17.50 miles

Back to longer days again with a 17.5-mile section between Les Tournesols du Gers and Nogaro.

The early morning stroll along the old railway track was lovely. Quiet, beneath the shade of overhanging trees, we initially enjoyed pleasant temperatures too, but it was already hotting up by the time we reached Eauze. In the cool of the cathedral we made the acquaintance of two familiar pilgrims – St Roch, with his dog and injured leg, and St Jacques with his shell-covered robes – and enjoyed a few moments of meditative calm and welcome respite from the travails of the journey.

It might seem counter-intuitive to consider a journey on foot, a steady trundle at all of 3 miles per hour, as requiring time to relax, reflect and re-energise. But that is the case with a long-distance spiritual journey such as a Camino, when sometimes it is necessary to slip outside of the total immersion the experience entails. This is especially true of the longer days we are now enjoying, which sometimes require as much mental energy as physical.

Near the Ferme de Peyret we stopped at a donativo stall and met up with a Canadian couple we walked with on and off until Manciet. Here, we had our bread and cheese lunch then went to Chez Monique for drinks. Monique, if it were indeed she, seemed determinedly unhurried while dispensing drinks. Although a Camino asks us to slow down, relax and go with the flow, it can be all too easy to let the impatience of our hurried lives resurface. It just goes to show how important it is to embrace this different pace of life.  

Moving on, the route passed through typical vineyard countryside. Shortly before the Eglise-hopital Sainte-Christie, we were wished "bon chemin" by a swashbuckling gent on horseback – a latter-day Musketeer, perhaps?

 

Nogaro seemed to take its time arriving. I'm sure it must have been further than indicated – it certainly seemed that way. However, we finally got checked in with time for a shower before dinner - a nice meal that we finished off with an Armagnac.

 

Day 8: Nogaro to Aire-sur-L’Adour – 18.00 miles

 

We woke to rain. The lengthy stretch between Nogaro and Aire-sur-L'Adour began with a 3-hour deluge that meant we needed to pack everything in dry bags, batten down the hatches and don full waterproofs.

Although it’s a shame when that happens, it does put a different, more reflective perspective on the walk, and as there’s nothing that can be one about it, it’s best just to accept the situation and make the most of it.

 

Part way through the morning, we stopped for morning coffee at a donativo in a large barn which provided respite from the rain. A small group of soggy pilgrims coagulated in the shelter, all keen to press on after finishing their drinks but somehow reluctant to head back into the tempest. As I write this sometime later, heavy rain is pounding on the windows at home, and I’m reminded of the aversion we all have to getting wet through. Whether this is a primal instinct kicking in or a reflection of just how conditioned we have become to our warm, dry modern houses, I don’t know. But taking those first steps back out into the rain after the comfort of shelter takes more resolve than might be expected.

 

Thankfully, conditions improved as the morning wore on, and by the time we had reached Lapujolle things were definitely looking a bit brighter. Dripping water all over the floor, we hunkered down in a small local café where homemade cakes and artisan beers fortified us for the afternoon ahead and our clothing began the long process of drying out.

 

To be honest, I can’t remember much about the afternoon at all. My original post somehow failed, my notes proved insufficient, and my memory has clearly faded in the year since we walked the route. I do recall that the weather improved and that the sun even made an appearance, and I think it was along this section where we came across another couple who were slightly distressed at having found a rifle abandoned at the side of the path.

 

I also remember it was a long afternoon, and that we were quite tired by the time we arrived in Aire-sur-L’Adour. We ate delicious burgers in a little bistro by the bridge over the Adour, timing our arrival just before a large group piled in rather well.

 

Day 9: Aire-sur-L’Adour to Arzacq-Arraziguet – 22.00 miles

 

Today was a big day. In a way, the previous days had served as a warm-up for this one, a 22-mile section between Aire-sur-L'Adour and Arzacq-Arraziguet.

 

We set off in half light, crossing the bridge over the Adour and heading through town, glad not to be part of the Monday morning commute resolutely queuing in the opposite direction. After skirting a large reservoir, we climbed out of the valley on to higher ground and fairly soon got our first glimpse of the Pyrenees on the horizon. These mountains would draw ever-closer as we approached the end of our trek in St Jean Pied de Port.

 

Much of the morning was given over to navigating paths and lanes running through corn fields. At this time of year, the crop was so tall we could barely catch a glimpse of the outstanding views.

 

Eventually, we climbed a ridge and reached the village of Miramont Sensacq and took lunch in the grounds of the church, a picturesque spot with terrific views over our route ahead.

 

Once again, the afternoon saw us leave most walkers behind, with just a few hardy hikers still on the trail. Choosing longer days often did this – the route in these parts naturally lending itself to 10- or 20-mile sections.

 In the beautiful village of Pimbo, we broke for drinks and ice creams and a well-earned rest. The rollercoaster route the Camino follows across the grain of the land proved unexpectedly energy-sapping, and we needed to top up our reserves for the final push of the day.

 

Our destination for the evening was Arzacq-Arraziguet, a small market town with two squares strewn along another ridge. We received a warm welcome from the patron of the Maison d’Antan, and were billeted in a lovely en-suite room that was far too chic for a couple of smelly pilgrims. Later, we were served one of the best “pilgrim menu” dinners so far, including the most extensive cheeseboard we have ever seen.

 

All in all, we accepted the luxury as justified recompense for a very tiring day and would heartily recommend the Maison d’Antan if you wanted a more upmarket stop on your Camino.

A Capital Idea – Part 4: Falconwood to Richmond

Day 1: Falconwood to Streatham Common

18.00 miles

And so to the final sections of the Capital Ring, the round-London walk we started back in the autumn of 2016. Initially, we’d intended this to be a winter project, but the loss of my father in the early part of this year meant these final few miles had been necessarily put on hold.   

However, the opportunity to complete the walk presented itself when we booked tickets to see Tears For Fears at the Royal Albert Hall and decided to book an extra night’s accommodation and “make a weekend” of it.

On King John's Walk

So, bright and early despite the late night the night before, we transferred out to Falconwood to pick up where we left off before, where our initial move was to tackle the loop through Shepherdleas Wood that we couldn’t complete last time due to rapidly-fading light.

Coffee break, with a distant view of
The Shard

That done, we picked up Section 2 of the Capital Ring, passing through Eltham Park and Avery Hill Park (where we were navigationally challenged for a few minutes) and beside Eltham College on the way towards Grove Park. It was good to be out and about again, and once again we seemed to have struck luck with the weather.

After the parkland and residential streets of Section 2, the next section followed a similar pattern of park areas connected by suburban streets. All of this area was new to us, and despite offering little in the way of challenge, the walking was pleasant enough.

Dinosaurs in Crystal Palace Park

We stopped for a quick lunch break at the café in Beckenham Place Park, then continued on through Penge to reach Crystal Palace Park. All I really know about Crystal Palace is that it used to be the location of the cast-iron-and-glass structure of the same name that was destroyed by fire in 1936, and is currently home to a bunch of large, lumbering creatures whose best years are well behind them. No, not the players of the under-performing football team of the same name, but dinosaurs!

Upper Norwood Recreation Ground

Originally, we’d only planned to walk as far as Norwood today, but with the weather good and time on our side we decided we could make a couple more miles so pushed on to Streatham. 

Norwood Grove

Crossing the Common, we eyed up the buses on the High Road. We had set our sights on eating in Brixton, which was just a few minutes away with transport. Well, you can’t come to one of the country’s premier international food centres and not give it a go, can you?

Fading light over Streatham

If you’re a bit of a foodie and you’ve never been to Brixton Village, I recommend you give it a try sometime. The Souk-like interior harbours all manner of curious foodstuffs and enticing ingredients, the narrow alleys reveal something of interest at every turn, and the exotic ambience definitely has a touch of “abroad” about it. We chose a selection of terrine and charcuterie from Corsica – delicious!  

Charcuterie!

Day 2: Streatham Common to Richmond Bridge

14.00 miles

Next day, we made our way back the Streatham on a cool but bright morning. The stage between Streatham and Wimbledon Park crosses Tooting Bec and Wandsworth Common, but is primarily walking on residential streets.

So, although the going is easy enough, there is perhaps a little less to enthuse the walker than on some other sections. Still, there were plenty of leaves to kick through on this autumn morning, which helped pass the time and eat up the miles.  

Wandsworth Common

Having passed HMP Brixton on the bus, it was now time to walk past Wandsworth Prison, situated incongruously between the green of the Common, the well-to-do houses and Wandsworth Cemetery.

We stopped for coffee in Wimbledon Park, in a café just down from the station. On the morning of the fall-out from Catalonia’s unilateral declaration of Independence from Spain, we found ourselves at a Spanish bar. The papers were full of the story: needless to say, politics was off the conversation agenda.

Wimbledon Park

The final section took us through Wimbledon Park, across Wimbledon Common and via Richmond Park to reach Richmond Bridge. We had covered some of this section before with our friends Celia and Nick, back when we were just scoping the route. The Common was much quieter than last time, when we got caught up with the Wimbledon Half Marathon.

Pen Ponds

Richmond Park was looking splendid in the afternoon sunshine. After taking a break on one of the park benches, we followed the route between Pen Ponds and on to Pemboke Lodge where we picked up a late lunch. It was busy, and although it was nice to retrace our steps from last year, see the protected view of St Paul’s Cathedral from Harry’s Mound and enjoy the wide view of Twickenham, Windsor Castle and the Thames as we descended towards Petersham Meadow, it was marred somewhat by dawdlers and path-hogs.

Heading for Pembroke Lodge

We had a final sit beside The Thames, reflecting on the weekend and the walk in full. And overall, we were very satisfied with both. The big advantage of a walk like the Capital Ring is that it is a good choice for the winter months, when the generally easy going and relatively mud-free walking really come into their own.

OK, so it had taken a bit longer than initially planned, but that couldn’t be helped. Having completed both, I think we are of the opinion that we’d tackle the Capital Ring and the London LOOP again sometime – perhaps even as soon as next winter.

Descending towards Petersham Meadows

Whatever the future brings, we are very glad to have completed these routes – routes that have had the ability to surprise us in many different ways. We’ve seen a lot more of London than we ever had before, grown to appreciate the history, geography, culture and diversity of our capital, and in the process got to know it’s character a whole lot better.

And do you know what? We’re all the better for it too. 

Back In Black Mountain: Part 2

Day 3: A Mountain and a Katun

9.00k

We made another early start as we left Žabljak on the way to our next destination. Komovi mountain was around a two-and-a-half-hour drive away, following a route that would take us via the Tara Canyon, the second deepest canyon in the world at 1300m.

The Djurdjevica Bridge over the Tara Canyon is impressive, but
it is hard to convey the scale of the scenery on a small photo

Having stopped briefly for photos at the Djurdjevića Bridge, we drove along the canyon towards Mojkovac, more often than not in the shade as the early morning sun had yet to penetrate the depths of the gorge – one of the many impressive drives to be had in Montenegro.

After breakfast in Mojkovac, we took a route via Biogradska Gora and Kolašin and picked up a back road towards Andrijevica, finally winding our way up from the pass Trešnjevik to reach the Eco Katun Štavna at the foot of Komovi.

Eco Katun Stavna at 1700m - a superb setting

It’s a wonderful setting at about 1700m. All the way up we had had tantalising glimpses of the mountain, but the full glory was saved until reaching Štavna.

Majestic Kom Vasojevicki 2461m

After checking in, we began our hike. Komovi has three main peaks, and we were tackling the first of the three, Kom Vasojevićki (2461m) today. Setting off across the grassy pastures and summer dwellings of the katun, we soon picked up signs for the summit and joined a rising traverse across scree slopes on the western flank of the mountain.

Crossing the scree slope on Kom Vasojevicki, with
Kom Kucki and Kom Ljevorijecki beyond

Pausing for breath on the steeper
mid-section of the climb

Presently, the path steepened in gradient to zig zag up to a grassy saddle a short way below the summit. From here, the top looks difficult to attain, but cunningly the path approaches the summit via the safer grassy slopes behind, and with a little scrambling and appropriate care, it is not as impossible as it at first seems. 

Preparing for the tricky-looking approach to the summit

Arriving at the top, we signed the visitor book and made first use of the brand-new stamp that Dimitrije had been asked to bring. Limbs were rested and photos were taken, and we enjoyed the amazing 360° views – to Bjelasica, Sinjajevina, the Prokletije, into Albania and Kosovo, and even to Hajla Peak that the three of us had summited together some four years ago.

Amazing views in all directions

However, it was a glorious day, and we were not alone on the top. A group of Bulgarians were also climbing the mountain today, and we got chatting to one who was thrilled to hear we would be visiting his country later this year.

Best friends, Bulgarians and backpacks: topping
out on the summit of Kom Vasojevicki

We took lunch on a sheltered bluff just down from the summit, then made our descent by the same route. Like many mountain paths, loose rock and steep ground means it takes almost as long to descend as it does to ascend in the first place.

It's a hard life ..... apparently

On the way down, we met a man who was worried about his hiking partner who hadn’t reached the summit. We kept our eyes and ears open as we went, but didn’t see anyone in trouble (he was later found safe and reasonably well after a slight fall, but it acts as a reminder to observe good practice and stay safe in the mountains).

Beautiful hardship: Hospitable companionship

Crossing the pastures back to the Eco Katun, we were invited in to one of the cabins for something to eat and drink. These dwellings are only inhabited during the three-or-so months of the summer, when small-holders bring their livestock up to the high pastures for grazing and to make cheese and jam and dry herbs for the winter.

For the rest of the year, our host was a teacher, and although it is beautiful here, it can at times be a lonely place. Hospitality is a tradition in these parts, and invites are regularly made to passers-by in exchange for company. We were happy to chat for a while, drinking juice and eating delicious bread and fresh cheese made that morning.

What a feast! Homemade corn bread, black bread and cheese

Back at the Eco Katun Štavna, we settled in for the evening. Dimitrije had to pop home to celebrate his son’s first birthday, but we were extremely well looked after by hosts Branko and Nemanja. We had dinner on the terrace – delicious stuffed peppers, corn bread with cheese and cream, salad and a couple of beers to wash it all down.

After a brief stroll along the road to let dinner settle and reflect on one of the best mountain days we have had, we turned in for the night, our only sadness being that one night here may not be enough.

For anyone interested in the Eco Katun Štavna, you can find further details HERE

Back In Black Mountain: Part 1

Back In Black Mountain: Part 3

Back In Black Mountain: Part 1

Day 1: Two Lakes and a Transfer

9.50k

Although only a short 5-day jaunt, this trip – our fourth visit to Montenegro – had been some 3 years in the making. We had been hoping to visit our good friend Dimitrije and do some hiking together for some while, but time, circumstance and other commitments had meant it had taken a little longer than expected to arrange.

After all this time, we were justifiably excited to be heading back to Montenegro – it’s such a wonderful destination for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts! Thankfully, our flights ran smoothly, and with customs cleared we met Dimitrije in the arrivals foyer. It was so good to see him again after all this time.

Approaching Black Lake 

   

Our first objective was to transfer to the small mountain resort of Žabljak, the main base for exploring Durmitor National Park. Located in the northeast of the country, Durmitor NP is probably the premier outdoor location in Montenegro, containing the Tara Canyon, numerous glacial lakes and cirques, and almost 50 peaks topping out at over 2000m, so there are huge opportunities for hiking, biking, canyoning, rafting and other outdoor pursuits.

Looking across both lakes

Having dropped by our lodgings (the Lalovic Apartments) to drop off our kit and taken lunch at a nearby restaurant, we decided to walk round the twin pools of Black Lake by way of a warm-up. Being both beautiful and close to Žabljak, Black Lake is a popular destination for tourists and day-trippers. 

And it’s easy to see why, with it’s clear waters set in an amphitheatre of wooded slopes beneath impressive peaks, it makes for a picture-postcard setting. But walk a little way round the perimeter and the crowds disappear, leaving scope for quiet reflection.

Quietly exploring the lakeside

That evening we ate, as at lunchtime, at the Kotoba Luna, a simple, inexpensive mountain-type restaurant with large portions of traditional fare. The local diet based around ample helpings of meat, potatoes, grilled vegetables and salad may not be to everyone’s taste, but it suited us just fine.  

Zabljak at sundown

Day 2: Three Lakes and Half a Mountain

23.50k

Having taken an early breakfast in town and stocked up with sandwiches and snacks for lunch, we were ready for the day’s objective – an ascent of 2522m Bobotov Kuk, which is usually regarded as the highest peak in Montenegro (although there are some slightly higher summits in the Prokletije sharing the border with Albania).

We met up with two of Dimitrije’s friends from their outdoor club, Slavko and Veljko, and headed off towards our starting point at the 1907m pass on the south edge of the massif.

The road up to the pass where we started our hike

But despite all our plans and preparations, one thing beyond our control was the weather. Usually, ascents of Bobotov Kuk are accompanied by photographs of far-reaching views from a summit bathed in sunshine, but today the sky was having other ideas. A strong wind was gusting and low cloud scudded across the mountain tops, and we all paused to don extra layers before setting off.

On the right track for Bobotov Kuk

The walk to the base of the peak follows a typically undulating mountain path, clear enough on the ground and mostly straightforward but with one or two tricky sections requiring a hands-on approach. 

Patches of old snow still lying at the end of June

What was quite a surprise (although maybe not, given the weather conditions today) was the sight of patches of old snow, still lying in places even though it is almost July – a reminder, if one were needed, that winters in these parts are tough and cold.

Hiking in beneath the rock formation Zupci, which means "teeth"

After a little over an hour’s walking, we descended steeply towards a small lake, ready for a short break. From here on the route would get steeper, with loose rocks and protected sections to negotiate, so we took the chance to rest briefly and gather our thoughts before tackling the next section.

Lake at the base of the peak 

The trouble was that since we had set off the skies had got darker, the low cloud much lower and the winds even stronger. To reach the summit from here takes two stages – firstly climbing to a saddle at around 2350m, then on to the 2522m summit itself after a rocky scramble – and we were conscious that the saddle was now only intermittently visible through the mist, and the peak itself completely hidden.

We decided to carry on for a while, and review the situation as we went. Half way to the saddle, we met a couple of other hikers who had got that far but turned back because of the inclement conditions. 

Decision time: deciding to head back down

It seems that Bobotov Kuk was determined to hide it's charms from hikers today. Slavko and Veljko decided to carry on towards the saddle (which they eventually reached, filming a short video of themselves clinging to the mountainside and showing just how windy it was), but with the clouds ripping across the sky like time-lapse photography, we three decided it was just a bit too risky and turned back.

A glimpse of what might be visible from the summit on a good day 

After a longer rest stop at the lake, we started to retrace our steps towards the cars. Of course, just at that moment the sun came out! The temperature rose and the mist evaporated a little, all of which made our retreat look over-cautious.

But the cloud was still whizzing past overhead and the wind buffeting and gusting strongly enough to force us into a stagger and knock us off the path, so we were happy we’d made the right choice especially as, moments later, the summit was again immersed in thick cloud.

Confirmation we had made the right decision

By now, Slavko and Veljko had returned from the saddle. Having taken a short cut near the bottom, they’d cut off a chunk of the route and we found them lounging beside the path waiting for us.

Because of our prompt start to the day it was still quite early, and people were heading out to the mountain as we were heading back. On the way, we met a couple of Scots and a group of Norwegians and stopped to discuss conditions.

Descending one of the protected sections
on our way back to the car

Our climb was over, but with plenty of the day left, we had a chance to do something more. So, after a quick stop for drinks in Žabljak, we headed for Ivan Do, near Black Lake, to do the 3-Lakes walk.

Snake Lake!

Our first objective was Zminje Lake (which translates as Snake Lake, and doesn’t refer to the shape) about a 40-minute hike away. We followed the track from Ivan Do, soon cutting up into the woods on a pleasant path between the trees. At this lower altitude, it was a warm, sunny afternoon, a long way from the cool, windy, misty conditions of the morning.

Walking with Natasha & Yasha

As we ambled through the woods, we met up with Natasha and Yasha, a mother and son from St Petersburg. Chatting as we went, we talked about everything from the Russian education system to Premier League football to the fact that their flight from Moscow to Podgorica was quicker than ours from Stansted. It’s always interesting to learn about other cultures, even if only briefly. 

We are on the route of the Via Dinarica, the new Balkans mega-trail

Part way back we said farewell to Natasha and Yasha, and headed off uphill towards Jablan Lake, about 90 minutes away.

After a 40-minute uphill section, the path levelled off, traversing the hillside through grassy pasture and thin woodland before a slight drop down to a small lake beneath tall cliffs. By now, it was around 7.00pm, so we had the lake pretty much to ourselves as we had a quick snack and a drink and soaked up the beauty and quiet.

Low evening sunlight on the mountains

Retracing our steps to the path junction and on to Ivan Do took about an hour-and-a-quarter, but the journey was eased by the wonderful views and gorgeous quality of the low evening light.

Black Lake in the distance

It had been a long day, but an excellent one. Sure, we were slightly disappointed not to have summited Bobotov Kuk (we will have to come back again to do that!) but the opportunity to explore other areas of the park meant we saw more of Durmitor than we had expected, which was a real bonus.

Nearing the end of the hike in fading light

We had dinner at the Kotoba Luna again, with kebabs and chicken, grilled veg, salad and beers on the menu – just the job after a full day on foot. It was almost 10.00pm when we arrived at our digs after a long but fantastic and diverse day, and even the power cut just before bedtime couldn’t take the shine off an excellent day.

Back In Black Mountain: Part 2

Back In Black Mountain: Part 3