tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-89245607627073413312024-02-06T18:17:49.673-08:00Ambles & RamblesWalking and hiking in the UK and abroadJulian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.comBlogger267125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8924560762707341331.post-54370345030326285652020-12-18T08:35:00.001-08:002020-12-18T08:36:32.245-08:00The Le Puy Route - Part 10<p> <b style="text-align: justify;"><u><span style="background: white; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">The End in Sight - </span></u></b><b style="text-align: justify;"><u><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Arzacq-Arraziguet
to SJPdP</span></u></b></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><u><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Day 10: Arzacq Arraziguet to
Arthez-de-Bearn – 20.00 miles<o:p></o:p></span></u></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">We are now clocking up some quite
long days on a regular basis, with today's jaunt between Arzacq-Arraziguet and
Arthez-de-Bearn being a case in point.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5gwAITOwduXzi7NK4-yXY0fXC7_1U1-JGg2TN2ENyv34zk3616L72sne0TeeOEOovNqnTm7PwssDWsy0hAIVHhCf9bbm3vcyFR7eiPgAjBvpMiOf3xRiTjbQMFWR2bXYgqCIewsNRCko/s5312/20190924_082609.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5gwAITOwduXzi7NK4-yXY0fXC7_1U1-JGg2TN2ENyv34zk3616L72sne0TeeOEOovNqnTm7PwssDWsy0hAIVHhCf9bbm3vcyFR7eiPgAjBvpMiOf3xRiTjbQMFWR2bXYgqCIewsNRCko/w400-h225/20190924_082609.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">After the culinary heights of the
previous evening and a scrumptious breakfast, rest for our weary bodies and
salve for our sore feet, we were suitably fortified and fuelled for the day
ahead. Passing through the two town squares, we picked up some lunchtime
victuals and headed out into the countryside, following quiet lanes and tracks
between the tall corn cob crop once again.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Despite progressing at
right-angles to the grain of the land, the countryside we had traversed over
the past few days was not dramatic, rather it was quietly rural and charming in
a low-key way. With villages few and far between and towns significant
distances apart, highlights such as they were – a beautiful mill at Louvigny,
the stained glass of a small modern church - were infrequent. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd56dZ3_7j1LhWaTnpErrdhG2A_PQD11q4N_SX0gImMqikqRnei8U8VPj3oAE8zq-oJNkOxK265D_9nD4CJIxQTwgzQijxQDa_Jz_48N-BjH1czSZv82-MDhuuKegj9TZn2hlkzVlWQQE/s5312/20190924_093749_001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd56dZ3_7j1LhWaTnpErrdhG2A_PQD11q4N_SX0gImMqikqRnei8U8VPj3oAE8zq-oJNkOxK265D_9nD4CJIxQTwgzQijxQDa_Jz_48N-BjH1czSZv82-MDhuuKegj9TZn2hlkzVlWQQE/w400-h225/20190924_093749_001.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">But this was set to change. Today
the ground became more noticeably hilly, and the Pyrenees now appeared as more
than just a grey smudge on the skyline, with individual peaks becoming clearly
visible.</span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3QMfs8dCzmgOivxFKGYAyGfXPj4vDXpmdIYqXsxKMQmIo_5eZUdik4oMKPbWNBTQmMLuWNPT_HHW_AyibfnpP097E7J0EpA_m3TSP8CCW4de2S3NKjc7mlS2_QfeokIQxBCcXgb-DNmw/s5312/20190925_155414.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3QMfs8dCzmgOivxFKGYAyGfXPj4vDXpmdIYqXsxKMQmIo_5eZUdik4oMKPbWNBTQmMLuWNPT_HHW_AyibfnpP097E7J0EpA_m3TSP8CCW4de2S3NKjc7mlS2_QfeokIQxBCcXgb-DNmw/w400-h225/20190925_155414.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">We took several short rest stops
for food and drink before taking a decent break at the alimentation in Pomps,
where we bought drinks, fruit and emergency supplies from a quaint shop that
was much larger than its modest frontage belied.</span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjde4wXB1wr7ODWsloLQsgF-YLy55u94LyRin9zqEo3HtwhYXD-tvrfTcyQ_I6Wg8oYQr6-rVzYXrmJPxM59Enqi5EmDEqivwQC1IiTeXiguw4nl4wAx0PNsAKudhyphenhyphenMEhz6V2M7rvr6cfQ/s5312/20190924_134929.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjde4wXB1wr7ODWsloLQsgF-YLy55u94LyRin9zqEo3HtwhYXD-tvrfTcyQ_I6Wg8oYQr6-rVzYXrmJPxM59Enqi5EmDEqivwQC1IiTeXiguw4nl4wAx0PNsAKudhyphenhyphenMEhz6V2M7rvr6cfQ/w400-h225/20190924_134929.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">The afternoon seemed endless, but
eventually Arthez-de-Bearn could be seen on the ridge ahead of us. A circuitous
route finally brought us to the edge of the village, only to discover that it was
one of the longest villages in France. And, of course, our lodgings were at the
far end!</span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">The effort was worth it though, as
we were to spend the night at the wonderful 400-year-old house of La Carrere.
We had thought the previous night’s accommodation would be hard to beat, but
although very different in character our night at La Carrere was every bit as
wonderful. Lovingly renovated and decorated in period style, Mike and Fritz
were determined to bring the house back to its former glory. We had a delicious
dinner in the baronial dining room, wonderful company and a magnificent bedroom
far too sumptuous given our dishevelled state.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><u><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></u></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><u><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Days 11 - 14: Arthez-de-Bearn to St Jean
Pied de Port</span></u></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">A combination of lost stats,
failed posts and dodgy Wi-Fi meant I didn’t keep up with the daily reports for
the final days as I should have done. However, the photos survived, and they
will have to suffice as a lasting record of our approach to St Jean Pied de
Port.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">The 19-mile stage from
Artez-de-Bearn to Navarrenx began with light rain. Not a downpour like we
experienced a couple of days earlier, but a light-but-steady drizzle that was
just enough to warrant waterproofs. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi6hf5AxEjvjxc9ITJLpHTUY0fAnOKpOYtmSbA889xSj0U7dZn8E7vf079mo8GJE6I0-D92FfR-GCBSEpaaCwqYXKQWYlMMfeZS4ZmeIidXcjT7JyR2TYOZ9yGjUUs0iFX0TQWWT4YwvY/s5312/20190925_170453.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi6hf5AxEjvjxc9ITJLpHTUY0fAnOKpOYtmSbA889xSj0U7dZn8E7vf079mo8GJE6I0-D92FfR-GCBSEpaaCwqYXKQWYlMMfeZS4ZmeIidXcjT7JyR2TYOZ9yGjUUs0iFX0TQWWT4YwvY/w400-h225/20190925_170453.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; text-align: justify;"><br /></span><div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="text-align: justify;">Over the previous 5 days, we had
completed almost 100 miles of walking and, while we loved the challenge, at
times it had seemed quite tough. The Pyrenees, so distant just a few days ago,
were now much more distinct.</span></div><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-DCKsZyrL1YLwYhehd9cnWgbqaQ_FmDbwc_9kpbmExQ5jBwMBc7K6uJwjOlTXJ_FmwnycDG2lYFHNxdNGMKiNrAOHhWEv_heitL53CPtDKTGtwJ7gGE_M05Vv7ETacxtlgZ8tfH6CsjQ/s5312/20190926_092702.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-DCKsZyrL1YLwYhehd9cnWgbqaQ_FmDbwc_9kpbmExQ5jBwMBc7K6uJwjOlTXJ_FmwnycDG2lYFHNxdNGMKiNrAOHhWEv_heitL53CPtDKTGtwJ7gGE_M05Vv7ETacxtlgZ8tfH6CsjQ/w400-h225/20190926_092702.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy4oIlzsNz2bCtjzt32enI9I4PYztzwz8rg8yREERERUNzVat1_rjWjO_Vw8X0Ur2SAFDG-AbopA9CnAf-WOkZZF34Nhg1aO3RbFBfth8WSU-URUiwssepA-wSfymd2Izhe-kPYSLfRlI/s5312/20190926_093029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5312" data-original-width="2988" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy4oIlzsNz2bCtjzt32enI9I4PYztzwz8rg8yREERERUNzVat1_rjWjO_Vw8X0Ur2SAFDG-AbopA9CnAf-WOkZZF34Nhg1aO3RbFBfth8WSU-URUiwssepA-wSfymd2Izhe-kPYSLfRlI/w225-h400/20190926_093029.jpg" width="225" /></a></div><div><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2M1cgw7efqYih3xVrnA1VrDJAWoTyTmyu3Te_Oe-YRBpAPYwndIBIdxGPg5oWDXsK5EuY_JvGzz3HvXNiyiN8IJiqES9HoeP5M0eCg6ahty-BajLfRk27UaXSKolhXXLddvj2gu58-tE/s5312/20190926_120211.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2M1cgw7efqYih3xVrnA1VrDJAWoTyTmyu3Te_Oe-YRBpAPYwndIBIdxGPg5oWDXsK5EuY_JvGzz3HvXNiyiN8IJiqES9HoeP5M0eCg6ahty-BajLfRk27UaXSKolhXXLddvj2gu58-tE/w400-h225/20190926_120211.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">We really enjoyed the days from
Navarrenx onwards. The scenery changed, <a name="_Hlk58942371">the wide valleys
and periodic ridges of previous days became rounded, wooded hills, more
altitude was gained and lost daily, and the Pyrenees grew closer and more
formidable. And, although we were nearing the end of this part of our journey,
we weren’t downhearted – the end bringing a sense of achievement and excitement
rather than the sadness of an adventure finishing.<o:p></o:p></a></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><a name="_Hlk58942371"><br /></a></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyAJ8gaNoe3xHIvq65bCUWNF_2rJfC8F8q9Sb5BNwaU6Z0mN6ZBnZ_cCXN34f7AIXYRse878xytZLIOd4ImT2dD7GpF7T6-o1DQBRQi87S0NrUEjc0V1MsmpwPakPkEFTyq3IbZ1mqcak/s5312/20190927_111615.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyAJ8gaNoe3xHIvq65bCUWNF_2rJfC8F8q9Sb5BNwaU6Z0mN6ZBnZ_cCXN34f7AIXYRse878xytZLIOd4ImT2dD7GpF7T6-o1DQBRQi87S0NrUEjc0V1MsmpwPakPkEFTyq3IbZ1mqcak/w400-h225/20190927_111615.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><a name="_Hlk58942371"><br /></a></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG9A_gDRwxA381M9YuTAZSIVMF3flxJL7tqJpSU2qEtKkugag5DkeV_A_1aBtMdQfcx6BxboxxtoLQtzdrCUsuFEEEcFgtqWp7sNTOZF8mB1XmSufuccAsrtdVEBMIedPXj-LP1fGAr74/s5312/20190927_134510.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG9A_gDRwxA381M9YuTAZSIVMF3flxJL7tqJpSU2qEtKkugag5DkeV_A_1aBtMdQfcx6BxboxxtoLQtzdrCUsuFEEEcFgtqWp7sNTOZF8mB1XmSufuccAsrtdVEBMIedPXj-LP1fGAr74/w400-h225/20190927_134510.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><a name="_Hlk58942371"><br /></a></span></p>
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Hlk58942371;"></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJYq7oTk3wRbC6McB3RrPgIVK2f6BtTk_XyvB8P3jBxkhunFklMO0lb_BtLNuH_2vWBJRgx3WxoQmj2tcSUeGNxVdtatPdt4TpL87fubZfft3kcixv_p9zfZDeuPM90EUzxp_HSCWhZDk/s5312/20190928_120906.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJYq7oTk3wRbC6McB3RrPgIVK2f6BtTk_XyvB8P3jBxkhunFklMO0lb_BtLNuH_2vWBJRgx3WxoQmj2tcSUeGNxVdtatPdt4TpL87fubZfft3kcixv_p9zfZDeuPM90EUzxp_HSCWhZDk/w400-h225/20190928_120906.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">The last day into St Jean Pied de
Port was busy with pilgrims. Some we knew, but many we did not. The town was
buzzing with hikers – some finishing</span><span class="textexposedshow" style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> the GR65,
others midway through a GR10 traverse, yet more about to depart on the Camino
Frances – and we remembered our own excitement when we stood in this same place
back in May 2013 waiting to take the first footsteps of our Camino.</span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="textexposedshow" style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="textexposedshow"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">This
crossroads of routes at the foot of the Pyrenees is a transient place, but for
us it provided a fitting ending to our Via Podiensis. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Overall, we’d had two great
weeks, accumulated around 230 miles of walking, wandered through varied
countryside, consumed excellent food and drink, and experienced memorable
hospitality along the way. It means we have now walked a continuous line
(albeit in sections) from Le Puy to Santiago, around 1000 miles across France
and Spain, every inch on foot.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIL0JwBan25f5O6l4KmgKzM48cCscVlFejb2ncIvyC4YFedknxbGPr0UEJggp46rvLn8Lz8YhLGfbrjvcjHHF9jn_28dDIxk7QEkvCGoMQAGiMlqRTnZH4XWvaCSl57AbLlK9iIyocKME/s5312/20190928_141718.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIL0JwBan25f5O6l4KmgKzM48cCscVlFejb2ncIvyC4YFedknxbGPr0UEJggp46rvLn8Lz8YhLGfbrjvcjHHF9jn_28dDIxk7QEkvCGoMQAGiMlqRTnZH4XWvaCSl57AbLlK9iIyocKME/w400-h225/20190928_141718.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">It will take time to fully digest
the walk, as it always does, but one thing is for sure: our passion for Camino
walking hasn't yet been dimmed. Our thoughts turned towards the next section we
wanted to undertake, and plans were laid – plans subsequently scuppered by
Covid 19 and the attendant travel restrictions.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxDJFjZ2JzqIDfBDxrFVlk_K_ndbuHnMBhnh1JFPrGtXtG7m4zswjCcZfcdXARS7SoB7y1bnSnZvDU6z42cClZ8bHDXpgo4kQllYnQ0Eyki7vB20jGlgS5t0nV-7hbUTp07muumdmYizE/s5312/20190928_150123.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5312" data-original-width="2988" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxDJFjZ2JzqIDfBDxrFVlk_K_ndbuHnMBhnh1JFPrGtXtG7m4zswjCcZfcdXARS7SoB7y1bnSnZvDU6z42cClZ8bHDXpgo4kQllYnQ0Eyki7vB20jGlgS5t0nV-7hbUTp07muumdmYizE/w225-h400/20190928_150123.jpg" width="225" /></a></div><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">For now, we will remember an
enjoyable trip and a sense of personal achievement, but one day we will travel
again and take up the challenge of walking the wobbly line across Europe once more.
</span><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p></div>Julian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8924560762707341331.post-55049648671607540082020-11-15T03:02:00.003-08:002020-11-15T07:05:40.095-08:00The Le Puy Route - Part 9<p><b style="text-align: justify;"><u><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="background: white;">The Camino Experience in
Miniature - Les Tournesols du Gers</span> to</u></b><b style="text-align: justify;"><u><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"> Arzacq-Arraziguet</span></u></b></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><u><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;">Day 7: Les Tournesol du Gers to Nogaro –
17.50 miles<o:p></o:p></span></u></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;">Back to longer days again with a
17.5-mile section between Les Tournesols du Gers and Nogaro.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHkW1LwQN86vqX218QRtQ8ZveCJQ1tKX84gZI_rhIHhsPL3B3psRf-_PBBxGSqJ9snM1sXAKz77caZbJn2nMkmC2mv9SB9ca_c0xSmWx_6Cmzoo_JHZ5KswQNRuuAomGEF0CSoVwlwJYA/s5312/20190921_091630.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHkW1LwQN86vqX218QRtQ8ZveCJQ1tKX84gZI_rhIHhsPL3B3psRf-_PBBxGSqJ9snM1sXAKz77caZbJn2nMkmC2mv9SB9ca_c0xSmWx_6Cmzoo_JHZ5KswQNRuuAomGEF0CSoVwlwJYA/w400-h225/20190921_091630.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;">The early morning stroll along
the old railway track was lovely. Quiet, beneath the shade of overhanging
trees, we initially enjoyed pleasant temperatures too, but it was already hotting
up by the time we reached Eauze. In the cool of the cathedral we made the acquaintance
of two familiar pilgrims – St Roch, with his dog and injured leg, and St
Jacques with his shell-covered robes – and enjoyed a few moments of meditative calm
and welcome respite from the travails of the journey.</span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqlteI56ZXVmL2vmZ1c8AJTFaZgnBbh1umyRHOj1_kWIqMQbgU1RzcnT0N4HxN4HtH-KnTJ_u3wcv0P6CdwSE3pdwaQzPeyfVLfn_szvC0DwhJF2cqJ8oV7AN6F6f0IopbmWy6yxpEFo0/s5312/20190921_093121.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqlteI56ZXVmL2vmZ1c8AJTFaZgnBbh1umyRHOj1_kWIqMQbgU1RzcnT0N4HxN4HtH-KnTJ_u3wcv0P6CdwSE3pdwaQzPeyfVLfn_szvC0DwhJF2cqJ8oV7AN6F6f0IopbmWy6yxpEFo0/w400-h225/20190921_093121.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcVzE_ukwEwJgeMhoIXy3Vr1BPNGQzG6vLJi6YDkFbl9InBURSU5MzPc63zL3FqhZN0pPE8IPH2os9C8FmRDePTyXEDuFCgv3M2HQDIQrGcAeu466zMmSk5jJi-aZfHFpCRjQeUsLRjf8/s5312/20190921_093555.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5312" data-original-width="2988" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcVzE_ukwEwJgeMhoIXy3Vr1BPNGQzG6vLJi6YDkFbl9InBURSU5MzPc63zL3FqhZN0pPE8IPH2os9C8FmRDePTyXEDuFCgv3M2HQDIQrGcAeu466zMmSk5jJi-aZfHFpCRjQeUsLRjf8/w225-h400/20190921_093555.jpg" width="225" /></a></div><br /><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;">It might seem counter-intuitive to
consider a journey on foot, a steady trundle at all of 3 miles per hour, as requiring
time to relax, reflect and re-energise. But that is the case with a long-distance
spiritual journey such as a Camino, when sometimes it is necessary to slip
outside of the total immersion the experience entails. This is especially true
of the longer days we are now enjoying, which sometimes require as much mental
energy as physical.</span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;">Near the Ferme de Peyret we
stopped at a donativo stall and met up with a Canadian couple we wa</span><span class="textexposedshow" face="Arial, sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;">lked with on and off until Manciet. </span><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;">Here, we had
our bread and cheese lunch then went to Chez Monique for drinks. Monique, if it
were indeed she, seemed determinedly unhurried while dispensing drinks. Although
a Camino asks us to slow down, relax and go with the flow, it can be all too
easy to let the impatience of our hurried lives resurface. It just goes to show
how important it is to embrace this different pace of life. </span><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><o:p><br /></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi9IpJIMsnZr2G_rt4S7hMqUafzU0HdUtG-aiilOUawbYNYR5-sUHSjR5BqvJUfxK5r_NrBxea7vU6mKphk2-wa3i_zLQsdtyK_9rd0MmbQlSQUNmDSqOACiVaLTaBBGkOoBehHjNH0i0/s1440/IMG-20190922-WA0003+%25281%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1440" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi9IpJIMsnZr2G_rt4S7hMqUafzU0HdUtG-aiilOUawbYNYR5-sUHSjR5BqvJUfxK5r_NrBxea7vU6mKphk2-wa3i_zLQsdtyK_9rd0MmbQlSQUNmDSqOACiVaLTaBBGkOoBehHjNH0i0/w400-h300/IMG-20190922-WA0003+%25281%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><o:p><br /></o:p><p></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;">Moving on, the route passed
through typical vineyard countryside. Shortly before the Eglise-hopital
Sainte-Christie, we were wished "bon chemin" by a swashbuckling gent
on horseback – a latter-day Musketeer, perhaps?</span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHkLcfhDdcp5hJp-PXl9-kEGtRH4Bwf5JE0VVFNeCZDWp-GtRQJ1V2dt8tUhivM3lYGDp5EMo-M2ND8j4fca9pv6kZQOjdEeMqbJ4__qoj3g5BVMg4wOVcLu9WmijzWdA8_SZVsCxYfSI/s5312/20190921_153824.jpg" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHkLcfhDdcp5hJp-PXl9-kEGtRH4Bwf5JE0VVFNeCZDWp-GtRQJ1V2dt8tUhivM3lYGDp5EMo-M2ND8j4fca9pv6kZQOjdEeMqbJ4__qoj3g5BVMg4wOVcLu9WmijzWdA8_SZVsCxYfSI/w400-h225/20190921_153824.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigTGRFqoguOhz0GfsBuwN2sJVFGiXb8k-1tG53ulLGkyDcpEb1Ko9H-tj0c98YIxtnbVCPRdjfKNFWh1iwKmw8FmURw_uGDnYrD9CXqkcyWAnwRkfbHstdxwqhUsYAUYyTdMVALwxt1Pk/s5312/20190921_151940.jpg" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5312" data-original-width="2988" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigTGRFqoguOhz0GfsBuwN2sJVFGiXb8k-1tG53ulLGkyDcpEb1Ko9H-tj0c98YIxtnbVCPRdjfKNFWh1iwKmw8FmURw_uGDnYrD9CXqkcyWAnwRkfbHstdxwqhUsYAUYyTdMVALwxt1Pk/w225-h400/20190921_151940.jpg" width="225" /></a></div><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><o:p><br /></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;">Nogaro seemed to take its time
arriving. I'm sure it must have been further than indicated – it certainly
seemed that way. However, we finally got checked in with time for a shower
before dinner - a nice meal that we finished off with an Armagnac.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX-pVdDE9uZQnkDyts2q-f0FnNCrmWE5EYtV2yKcjZGUke6LYMjDjF-pOSlMnFJqfClya-KxWe5ugE7Z8H1yyqErWzvSks6gBzWw1_6yT4rRDfm6ErWZzyeLrLwv6dLG46pB4wdO5K1ms/s1440/IMG-20190922-WA0001+%25281%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1080" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX-pVdDE9uZQnkDyts2q-f0FnNCrmWE5EYtV2yKcjZGUke6LYMjDjF-pOSlMnFJqfClya-KxWe5ugE7Z8H1yyqErWzvSks6gBzWw1_6yT4rRDfm6ErWZzyeLrLwv6dLG46pB4wdO5K1ms/w300-h400/IMG-20190922-WA0001+%25281%2529.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><u><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;">Day 8: Nogaro to Aire-sur-L’Adour – 18.00
miles<o:p></o:p></span></u></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;">We woke to rain. The lengthy stretch
between Nogaro and Aire-sur-L'Adour began with a 3-hour deluge that meant we
needed to pack everything in dry bags, batten down the hatches and don full waterproofs.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;">Although it’s a shame when that
happens, it does put a different, more reflective perspective on the walk, and
as there’s nothing that can be one about it, it’s best just to accept the
situation and make the most of it.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL4NC3PZgXZmfD4nbfISoVEPCGU5b545HsEBzhcRqoZ_PD4TjD8m0_wWXt2fN6hqnMJOZ2JeCteoi-gjVcoDi6PvcysUZZLBHrPl1sxLnFcRQi3hMKhcqTB-lJ6JHf5dyXZDzrWDNM_e4/s1440/IMG-20190922-WA0002.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1440" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL4NC3PZgXZmfD4nbfISoVEPCGU5b545HsEBzhcRqoZ_PD4TjD8m0_wWXt2fN6hqnMJOZ2JeCteoi-gjVcoDi6PvcysUZZLBHrPl1sxLnFcRQi3hMKhcqTB-lJ6JHf5dyXZDzrWDNM_e4/w400-h300/IMG-20190922-WA0002.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;">Part way through the morning, we
stopped for morning coffee at a donativo in a large barn which provided respite
from the rain. A small group of soggy pilgrims coagulated in the shelter, all
keen to press on after finishing their drinks but somehow reluctant to head
back into the tempest. As I write this sometime later, heavy rain is pounding
on the windows at home, and I’m reminded of the aversion we all have to getting
wet through. Whether this is a primal instinct kicking in or a reflection of just
how conditioned we have become to our warm, dry modern houses, I don’t know.
But taking those first steps back out into the rain after the comfort of
shelter takes more resolve than might be expected. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;">Thankfully, conditions improved
as the morning wore on, and by the time we had reached Lapujolle things were
definitely looking a bit brighter. Dripping water all over the floor, we hunkered
down in a small local café where homemade cakes and artisan beers fortified us
for the afternoon ahead and our clothing began the long process of drying out. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;">To be honest, I can’t remember
much about the afternoon at all. My original post somehow failed, my notes proved
insufficient, and my memory has clearly faded in the year since we walked the route.
I do recall that the weather improved and that the sun even made an appearance,
and I think it was along this section where we came across another couple who were
slightly distressed at having found a rifle abandoned at the side of the path. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;">I also remember it was a long
afternoon, and that we were quite tired by the time we arrived in Aire-sur-L’Adour.
We ate delicious burgers in a little bistro by the bridge over the Adour,
timing our arrival just before a large group piled in rather well.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><u><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;">Day 9: Aire-sur-L’Adour to Arzacq-Arraziguet – 22.00 miles<o:p></o:p></span></u></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;">Today was a big day. In a way,
the previous days had served as a warm-up for this one, a 22-mile section
between Aire-sur-L'Adour and Arzacq-Arraziguet.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><o:p><br /></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw8Pyth5LZlnzWuKUsPACu7ZyVewGpsBogfqqPnYiz2opmWxkxObku45Gt9sec54B_xDIYhH0CvWsjZ21qc00nxXfQ1IxnyMXMDPMzGhfXMxX71rL3jr_NrYVVhhpWeqQiwAO6apGJuMg/s5312/20190923_075905.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw8Pyth5LZlnzWuKUsPACu7ZyVewGpsBogfqqPnYiz2opmWxkxObku45Gt9sec54B_xDIYhH0CvWsjZ21qc00nxXfQ1IxnyMXMDPMzGhfXMxX71rL3jr_NrYVVhhpWeqQiwAO6apGJuMg/w400-h225/20190923_075905.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;">We set off in half light,
crossing the bridge over the Adour and heading through town, glad not to be
part of the Monday morning commute resolutely queuing in the opposite
direction. After skirting a large reservoir, we climbed out of the valley on to
higher ground and fairly soon got our first glimpse of the Pyrenees on the
horizon. These mountains would</span><span class="textexposedshow" face="Arial, sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"> draw ever-closer as
we approached the end of our trek in St Jean Pied de Port.</span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="textexposedshow" face="Arial, sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7JdkRJgZ7dhsM91xbVOvqzLkIAeT_-jWEi0ndmYhJidJ_xrElCHKvAMK3VfHnCNqql91rd_oxASeQDdy-0nrJOBlOSMOv8jInRDrSwa0uUGsYYNGr3_EPkqZUGBCVpvZqEKu9dLU7YJQ/s5312/20190923_085248.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7JdkRJgZ7dhsM91xbVOvqzLkIAeT_-jWEi0ndmYhJidJ_xrElCHKvAMK3VfHnCNqql91rd_oxASeQDdy-0nrJOBlOSMOv8jInRDrSwa0uUGsYYNGr3_EPkqZUGBCVpvZqEKu9dLU7YJQ/w400-h225/20190923_085248.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> <p></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;">Much of the morning was given
over to navigating paths and lanes running through corn fields. At this time of
year, the crop was so tall we could barely catch a glimpse of the outstanding
views.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwJW_R2UnOJCcLIvV5mZqrMyvAZkLzCadh-PLmPcKlzrZlWOf6jYUpDJoHrljU04b1MmqNcHFyh-6RiScMS97rqy6S5uzpD87Jz2NYkZctohbzMOF8dSrN9Udyv8yyzb38PBn8bF1vDBA/s5312/20190923_094042.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwJW_R2UnOJCcLIvV5mZqrMyvAZkLzCadh-PLmPcKlzrZlWOf6jYUpDJoHrljU04b1MmqNcHFyh-6RiScMS97rqy6S5uzpD87Jz2NYkZctohbzMOF8dSrN9Udyv8yyzb38PBn8bF1vDBA/w400-h225/20190923_094042.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> <p></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;">Eventually, we climbed a ridge
and reached the village of Miramont Sensacq and took lunch in the grounds of
the church, a picturesque spot with terrific views over our route ahead. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;">Once again, the afternoon saw us
leave most walkers behind, with just a few hardy hikers still on the trail.
Choosing longer days often did this – the route in these parts naturally lending
itself to 10- or 20-mile sections. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4pkjklHFJ-WjFlnsxx2VOrXri3YlwYxHNOWfGT3yNVKMTXYfKXiJ2MWiSfDPXLQqaVYecjtg_5fCjHDyfOmNvEUizY5prBUP7GfAeUB88fpY0LzZ_oPIGLvVPM4XsQJPlpx_IRhZfnE4/s5312/20190923_161935.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4pkjklHFJ-WjFlnsxx2VOrXri3YlwYxHNOWfGT3yNVKMTXYfKXiJ2MWiSfDPXLQqaVYecjtg_5fCjHDyfOmNvEUizY5prBUP7GfAeUB88fpY0LzZ_oPIGLvVPM4XsQJPlpx_IRhZfnE4/w400-h225/20190923_161935.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /> <span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;">In the beautiful village of Pimbo,
we broke for drinks and ice creams and a well-earned rest. The rollercoaster
route the Camino follows across the grain of the land proved unexpectedly
energy-sapping, and we needed to top up our reserves for the final push of the
day.</span><p></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl8STv0ChsaWOCubIyD5L67YiIITGF4e0_guGWeTvIZ9MQPc4FRbjisUvPrNG-kgt4zUewaaPUMk7eNeObxcoe-vVoTRY4zg1Z3JZQL2LTIKeetp31tYYVwZtC4VIXksAxJJrhFMtocDY/s5312/20190923_170351.jpg" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl8STv0ChsaWOCubIyD5L67YiIITGF4e0_guGWeTvIZ9MQPc4FRbjisUvPrNG-kgt4zUewaaPUMk7eNeObxcoe-vVoTRY4zg1Z3JZQL2LTIKeetp31tYYVwZtC4VIXksAxJJrhFMtocDY/w400-h225/20190923_170351.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;">Our destination for the evening
was Arzacq-Arraziguet, a small market town with two squares strewn along
another ridge. We received a warm welcome from the patron of the Maison d’Antan,
and were billeted in a lovely en-suite room that was far too chic for a couple
of smelly pilgrims. Later, we were served one of the best “pilgrim menu”
dinners so far, including the most extensive cheeseboard we have ever seen. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8UYhGDr9Xs-1qjN7iumV5z91NVTeI8OMKS-AHzwGQHgvutr4x2uMM8Vb-lwxHaJMHwgvUdbBUUE5Lgvj0aZRggFt5PlM82zQaKZ6cuU04hxUBQ81hmNkrhuj1kpE5OZu_VNaDA9_RU7Y/s5312/20190923_210958.jpg" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8UYhGDr9Xs-1qjN7iumV5z91NVTeI8OMKS-AHzwGQHgvutr4x2uMM8Vb-lwxHaJMHwgvUdbBUUE5Lgvj0aZRggFt5PlM82zQaKZ6cuU04hxUBQ81hmNkrhuj1kpE5OZu_VNaDA9_RU7Y/w400-h225/20190923_210958.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21; font-size: 12pt;">All in all, we accepted the
luxury as justified recompense for a very tiring day and would heartily recommend
the Maison d’Antan if you wanted a more upmarket stop on your Camino.<o:p></o:p></span></p>Julian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8924560762707341331.post-28047945731176714792020-10-20T10:34:00.006-07:002020-11-15T00:17:27.931-08:00The Le Puy Route - Part 8<p><br /></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><b><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"><u>Time to Relax - C</u></span><u><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;">ondom to Les Tournesols du Gers</span></u></b></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><u><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;">Day 5 Condom to Montreal du Gers – 15.00
miles<o:p></o:p></span></u></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;">For the first time this trip our daily distance
was to be less than the day before. In fact, the next couple of days were a more
modest in terms of distance, and while we like the challenge of longer days, we
also appreciate the occasional freedom to explore more widely and enjoy a more
leisurely pace.</span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh-L2-jqe8FhSweyX6YkWOys5ZUkRztGESek_iKfam083hZCh94c_2YfeiqGU0ix78VSwiitaH2ikBw2GVfmFIIu4IXS18ij02SBbPrfzOc3GEigdsB6q3U5iLH3ThB5qj0-jfbBzGySs/s5312/20190919_100257.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh-L2-jqe8FhSweyX6YkWOys5ZUkRztGESek_iKfam083hZCh94c_2YfeiqGU0ix78VSwiitaH2ikBw2GVfmFIIu4IXS18ij02SBbPrfzOc3GEigdsB6q3U5iLH3ThB5qj0-jfbBzGySs/w400-h225/20190919_100257.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;">We began what turned out to be a 15-mile day
with a quick tour of Condom. Many of the towns we pass through are worthy of
more in-depth investigation, but time doesn’t always permit anything greater
than a cursory inspection. However, we needed a couple things – insect
repellent to keep the little blighters at bay and a new belt to preserve my
modesty – so toured the town centre while we waited for the shops to open. And
where better than Condom to acquire preventative measures.</span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqQQtTy3FzTnehSLaWNdDBCYQ2ETRcA6ViOHpJAclbEB2jEpSQydKllKOUQUA0YGU_XkQTk6Qtp7Gh39_rmT4UheP38rlB0iHTcqtgLgGrK3M6dmGY1EQwfW_zxAuUR8XwknpGkpEJybU/s5312/20190919_091821.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqQQtTy3FzTnehSLaWNdDBCYQ2ETRcA6ViOHpJAclbEB2jEpSQydKllKOUQUA0YGU_XkQTk6Qtp7Gh39_rmT4UheP38rlB0iHTcqtgLgGrK3M6dmGY1EQwfW_zxAuUR8XwknpGkpEJybU/w400-h225/20190919_091821.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> <p></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;">It turns out D’Artagnan was from these parts. Although
best known for the heavily fictionalised adventures written by Alexandre Dumas,
most famously with The Three Musketeers, D’Artagnan the character was based on
a real 17<sup>th</sup> Century figure.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCLFxW_v00iv4sWD5CK4maUDBIQsoTvG4Hrwb13Zsw8gGY7NYnEKEWSRsFa-lx5IbkCEQk_f4UkUXPGGrNe688tJ5_ero1rbY06zBiAyMF6BaSEjsYGzl9GY_zXCQBvSvHgFBTi0uunkk/s5312/20190919_124332.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCLFxW_v00iv4sWD5CK4maUDBIQsoTvG4Hrwb13Zsw8gGY7NYnEKEWSRsFa-lx5IbkCEQk_f4UkUXPGGrNe688tJ5_ero1rbY06zBiAyMF6BaSEjsYGzl9GY_zXCQBvSvHgFBTi0uunkk/w400-h225/20190919_124332.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;">Another product of the region is Armagnac, the
special variation on Cognac so beloved in these parts. Time allowed us to take
a side trip to the very old walled village of Larressingle, where we treated
ourselves to a leisurely lunch including ice cream drenched with a goodly slug
of the aforementioned falling over water.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 16px;">Wobbling slightly as we set off, we trundled down the hill to the Pont d’Artigue and made our way through quiet countryside towards Montreal du Gers. On the way, we passed a small chapel with a side door specifically for allowing in the “unclean”. We may have been a bit “unwashed” by that time of the afternoon, but we thought it best to enter via the front door to take advantage of the ensuing cool.</span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 16px;"><br /></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5p4lInnEVnsumDc_buBm8KMKFDk1m3RSZORaT6cdBhpWJe_K-QZH5kLSPxnbJhM4tllMVB1Y4PLoWT_u4XpiIvP6x4JU9LuYsmHBvbsZq7Xrf5W3e8u2BEPu4yMx_61chDE-6ZSLHBzw/s5312/20190919_143814.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5312" data-original-width="2988" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5p4lInnEVnsumDc_buBm8KMKFDk1m3RSZORaT6cdBhpWJe_K-QZH5kLSPxnbJhM4tllMVB1Y4PLoWT_u4XpiIvP6x4JU9LuYsmHBvbsZq7Xrf5W3e8u2BEPu4yMx_61chDE-6ZSLHBzw/w225-h400/20190919_143814.jpg" width="225" /></a></div><br /> <p></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;">On arrival at Montreal du Gers, we skirted the
town as our accommodation, a farm with B&B, was a short distance away. We
were made to feel very welcome, and enjoyed a lovely evening of good food,
company and conversation – the kind that these trips have a habit of
delivering. The whole meal, including the wine, was made from their own produce,
and we shared this with our host and a lovely French couple, enjoying a
convivial evening we will long remember.</span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEige3waC036g6uiHNzw8p6HPNGM716oduubIC7Qf7u6qQ4A79eqHFajq0R2QTfS_N5vZrK4YpMR3DVRjUCWyg1HFxqlxlB5imRlOR_NGLhyphenhyphenWnb7_TXD5tWeGKiZXOffGZTbEv486k_Jcu0/s5312/20190920_092642.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5312" data-original-width="2988" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEige3waC036g6uiHNzw8p6HPNGM716oduubIC7Qf7u6qQ4A79eqHFajq0R2QTfS_N5vZrK4YpMR3DVRjUCWyg1HFxqlxlB5imRlOR_NGLhyphenhyphenWnb7_TXD5tWeGKiZXOffGZTbEv486k_Jcu0/w225-h400/20190920_092642.jpg" width="225" /></a></div><br /> <p></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;">The French chap had written hundreds of Haikus
and even had a book published, so to honour the occasion here is one of my own:<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;">Camino meetings<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;">So fleet, few words, brief friendships<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;">Fond memories last <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><u><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;">Day 6 – Montreal Du Gers to Les
Tournesols du Gers 12.50 miles<o:p></o:p></span></u></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;">For the second time in as many days we had a
shorter section to traverse. After a lovely, relaxed breakfast, we said goodbye
to our new-found friends and set off through the farm’s vineyards towards the 4<sup>th</sup>
Century Galloroman villa at Seviac.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;">If you are even remotely interested in Roman history,
this site is well worth a visit. The mosaics are amazing, with many in an excellent
condition, and it is easy to while away an hour or two admiring the skill and
artistry of the craftsmen. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTlxMmXaRbFOvxzavdEwbNqErha14qOi6aG2hNmQGbaeVpAkpjINQ1onMScYByKpj5efxk6rPmecJpyqW55-TpLYtNPT4_XBL46a9FMoAlzs9zO4ngGpQFUHtzJ8gVff633dnnzRMZDg4/s5312/20190920_101752.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTlxMmXaRbFOvxzavdEwbNqErha14qOi6aG2hNmQGbaeVpAkpjINQ1onMScYByKpj5efxk6rPmecJpyqW55-TpLYtNPT4_XBL46a9FMoAlzs9zO4ngGpQFUHtzJ8gVff633dnnzRMZDg4/w400-h225/20190920_101752.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD47kJZ7aENLNRRr4cJZ_CMb2_EFPT7VrdxxG1jrO6ftLrO8uPCFpDeNlOlS4SvYvgQBGhlQS56p0qvMSXg3ulHk9mkdSOcKoIV0d7puiGNA-MbkSiDTtgu5iOkvvXYqhUzznsLIyNAbc/s5312/20190920_102816.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD47kJZ7aENLNRRr4cJZ_CMb2_EFPT7VrdxxG1jrO6ftLrO8uPCFpDeNlOlS4SvYvgQBGhlQS56p0qvMSXg3ulHk9mkdSOcKoIV0d7puiGNA-MbkSiDTtgu5iOkvvXYqhUzznsLIyNAbc/w400-h225/20190920_102816.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> <p></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;">From the villa, we headed back into Montreal du
Gers for a proper look round. Having largely missed the town on arrival, we
found a charming centre complete with local market. Needing no invitation, we
stocked up on picnic food which we tucked into a few kilometres later beside a lake
near the Chateau de Montaut.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQcYha7kCnSs4oaWR_cFpnMWAE9_iJVJrQ0Kf1blkFQoE2lKMcn74OV8qjBSTm6RR_VsezKY6N_HzsOczZ0_7JnSGYC8UDt9LtbfPoRUnhceYk5kHzpOeOe2k7npFYVUn3YWtpM_3Aso4/s5312/20190920_133843.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5312" data-original-width="2988" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQcYha7kCnSs4oaWR_cFpnMWAE9_iJVJrQ0Kf1blkFQoE2lKMcn74OV8qjBSTm6RR_VsezKY6N_HzsOczZ0_7JnSGYC8UDt9LtbfPoRUnhceYk5kHzpOeOe2k7npFYVUn3YWtpM_3Aso4/w225-h400/20190920_133843.jpg" width="225" /></a></div><br /> <p></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;">The temperature flared considerably after lunch,
as was the pattern of recent days. In Lamothe, we stopped for drinks at the
Casa d’Elena. Whilst serving a number of customers simultaneously, I was sure I
heard a not-very-French exclamation of “Right, beer” when it came to my order.
Turns out the bar was run by an expat British couple, and we had a good chat
about their new life in France whilst playing fetch with their seemingly
tireless dog.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; text-align: justify;"> </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn3sXlkHVg8jxkb6i7AEjev9KZLosCLGn0QiGxle8Kib7XyRWBuCYoBpoAda5ZvqMMFdITdeUT22i9hByePMLTelZ3s55KRoHNcK25GlU2GPHX9idWreCHnI17H738LX1_vOqphBAcRFM/s5312/20190920_160346.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn3sXlkHVg8jxkb6i7AEjev9KZLosCLGn0QiGxle8Kib7XyRWBuCYoBpoAda5ZvqMMFdITdeUT22i9hByePMLTelZ3s55KRoHNcK25GlU2GPHX9idWreCHnI17H738LX1_vOqphBAcRFM/w400-h225/20190920_160346.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;">Our evening stop was a few kilometres further
on at Les Tournesols du Gers. Use of the outdoor swimming pool required no
second invitation, and after a refreshing dip we had a fun communal dinner with
around a dozen other guests.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p>Julian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8924560762707341331.post-66291828731047781262020-08-04T05:06:00.000-07:002020-08-04T05:08:03.141-07:00The Le Puy Route - Part 7<b><u>Fulfilling a Promise - L'Aube Nouvelle to Condom</u></b><div><br /></div><div><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Thanks to furlough, I have more time on my
hands than usual. Now that I’ve tackled the essential chores, helped the
neighbours, baked bread and zoomed myself into a stupor, finally there’s a
chance to catch up on those outstanding trip reports. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">It seems strange writing these posts almost a
whole year since the trip happened, and it’s been noticeably different
compiling them from the photos and brief notes I took at the time plus a bunch
of slightly faded memories, but then these are strange times. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNWq66u_yp09Uiq1GPTY2SRA0O6Fu2DZpv-455pN8rbw0YNZjkQp5kaE2bD99Et-nckP0AhCsDJki2D98mtXIsz7r3c5-A7RFKRuvLmwG6lDeWj0-0Apc1WSWVScN-7UY7jy_gId0WCsU/s5312/20190915_090523.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNWq66u_yp09Uiq1GPTY2SRA0O6Fu2DZpv-455pN8rbw0YNZjkQp5kaE2bD99Et-nckP0AhCsDJki2D98mtXIsz7r3c5-A7RFKRuvLmwG6lDeWj0-0Apc1WSWVScN-7UY7jy_gId0WCsU/w512-h288/20190915_090523.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Last time out, we’d ended our walk at L’Aube
Nouvelle, filthy and soaked to the skin having slipped and slid our way through
a deluge of near-biblical proportions. The proprietor kindly let us shelter
from the rain, wring out our sodden clothes and recover some dignity, and all
for the price of a café au lait each. We vowed there and then that we would
come back and stay – a small gesture we could make to thank them for their
previous generosity.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">That was two years earlier. In September 2019
we were back, full of excitement, happy to see the sun shining and eager to
start on the final fortnight of the Via Podiensis from here to St Jean Pied de
Port in the foothills of the Pyrenees, the small town from where we’d started
our Camino Frances way back in May 2013.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><u><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Day 1 Dufort Lacapelette to Moissac –
12.75 miles<o:p></o:p></span></u></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">I’ve mentioned before about how easy we’ve
found it to slip into “trail mode” at the start of a new section, and this time
was no different, picking up both physically and metaphorically from our last
trip almost seamlessly. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj21Mzttym03dUlHTlGhDYQ5eHiEs7u0pAiSv4iF6mKqOclOeJtwl5Pj1KPM1LsmNFEm2G9cP-KQWhVZc3KR_gNAlI0JNuhpaMtGNN6ZTsy69JbFSvh4DskSBXVL8AXkXTJxy-NzkGp_Sc/s5312/20190915_103611.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5312" data-original-width="2988" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj21Mzttym03dUlHTlGhDYQ5eHiEs7u0pAiSv4iF6mKqOclOeJtwl5Pj1KPM1LsmNFEm2G9cP-KQWhVZc3KR_gNAlI0JNuhpaMtGNN6ZTsy69JbFSvh4DskSBXVL8AXkXTJxy-NzkGp_Sc/w360-h640/20190915_103611.jpg" width="360" /></a></div><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">For our first day back out on the route we
planned nothing more adventurous than a short trundle, the 12-odd miles to
Moissac. It was a fine, warm morning, and we walked most of the day in
leisurely fashion with Mark from Oregon. It was his last day on the trail,
which gave us plenty of opportunity to reminisce about the trail so far.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglDq8yDiizhi9vEoBNNGAADqCdTgJ-BlJZIIGI7H8s1Heep9f9SIUKTo8q85jOmKxj6FucjxBKxIW8HCthgRBfSkNT6E5D0oAO4CJXJgKqcOSkzQj63_HXatQeNpwBO6cJZcXLzxQ-k9I/s5312/20190916_084125.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5312" data-original-width="2988" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglDq8yDiizhi9vEoBNNGAADqCdTgJ-BlJZIIGI7H8s1Heep9f9SIUKTo8q85jOmKxj6FucjxBKxIW8HCthgRBfSkNT6E5D0oAO4CJXJgKqcOSkzQj63_HXatQeNpwBO6cJZcXLzxQ-k9I/s640/20190916_084125.jpg" /></a></div><p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Towards the end of the walk we took a short variant
the granted super views over Moissac and the surrounding area, and which
delivered us right to the doors of the Abbey. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><u><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Day 2 Moissac to Bardigues – 17.75 miles<o:p></o:p></span></u></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">A bright morning greeted us for the 17.75-mile
stretch between Moissac and Bardigues. Leaving town, we walked beside the canal
for a while until the route split – the official route or continue beside the
canal. Our guidebook rather dismissed the official route and recommended the
canal-side path, but we’re glad we opted for the official route which took us
into the hills on an undulating route through fields and woods via the quiet
village of Boudou.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieiF3J7ui3Mr5kkZv-iKn6opMhLCZjaLbB44W1sXDot-3Vrt7wiYpQsjpGHOMb61toFalBhZ4sZFc6eEj7LG9Ht4pY6dLWAOAsZ6B_0a3sBYbqqMUMd7_3gNYefPQzgJS9xISKdCqFkUE/s5312/20190916_085516.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieiF3J7ui3Mr5kkZv-iKn6opMhLCZjaLbB44W1sXDot-3Vrt7wiYpQsjpGHOMb61toFalBhZ4sZFc6eEj7LG9Ht4pY6dLWAOAsZ6B_0a3sBYbqqMUMd7_3gNYefPQzgJS9xISKdCqFkUE/w512-h288/20190916_085516.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmf5RzrxQnG9ha46DGc0YodP1dZQZXqMADGV55GSRduPbDjee2KOHX9XSt_Npeb5Jyah_gb4ueAeFixAVJSdcFg9yRMAGsu8u04TP8tPxmdUQL3hwEPY9S3i4NmPQbTr4yRNEhtWwEgOw/s5312/20190916_103030.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmf5RzrxQnG9ha46DGc0YodP1dZQZXqMADGV55GSRduPbDjee2KOHX9XSt_Npeb5Jyah_gb4ueAeFixAVJSdcFg9yRMAGsu8u04TP8tPxmdUQL3hwEPY9S3i4NmPQbTr4yRNEhtWwEgOw/w512-h288/20190916_103030.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkpjDchXhuc2fziUA9RahGI7yhjmb0QCykKw-3uBLXcCw5Ra9WKcy-9CGpWhfixfW7tCcOWcAJGyunTdBzg5zrqfIvFETe78RBQ04r_hGez2rCdmpXKVrimpYGysYVZrW-vym0zgwQjIM/s5312/20190916_131433.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkpjDchXhuc2fziUA9RahGI7yhjmb0QCykKw-3uBLXcCw5Ra9WKcy-9CGpWhfixfW7tCcOWcAJGyunTdBzg5zrqfIvFETe78RBQ04r_hGez2rCdmpXKVrimpYGysYVZrW-vym0zgwQjIM/w512-h288/20190916_131433.jpg" width="512" /></a></div> <p></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">After lunch in Malause, a sleepy, non-descript
town, we re-joined the canal then struck off across the flat valley bottom
towards Auvillar. After taking advantage of a roadside drinks stop, we climbed
to the town – one of the beautiful old “beaux villages” of the area.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJbB7aK50XPBLK1zbv2SW4E5tgT0ZL_ATMSDif4ffq_mOogHThH_A4fnQCxlQA564nhoEG1XxALnqm1FRfxU2sSnUxOD6wn34NucyKhIlPUGiJoLQYvnt8uoNVTk2kvaRSjyAivN6FiQg/s5312/20190916_154158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJbB7aK50XPBLK1zbv2SW4E5tgT0ZL_ATMSDif4ffq_mOogHThH_A4fnQCxlQA564nhoEG1XxALnqm1FRfxU2sSnUxOD6wn34NucyKhIlPUGiJoLQYvnt8uoNVTk2kvaRSjyAivN6FiQg/w512-h288/20190916_154158.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidLJ1L5DE5j2QGQPoBbAMoAJAs6SIp6GPCkA_Ays7kGaUSy2kmx_rdJtN4mrXBDJasVKTLENBE0gOiLfTJ6fk7ulUpxZcr1yTPbRcgT57MrI10F-_1D0QtMEVVuUJ0vTvrxMCIZUATn_g/s5312/20190916_154806.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidLJ1L5DE5j2QGQPoBbAMoAJAs6SIp6GPCkA_Ays7kGaUSy2kmx_rdJtN4mrXBDJasVKTLENBE0gOiLfTJ6fk7ulUpxZcr1yTPbRcgT57MrI10F-_1D0QtMEVVuUJ0vTvrxMCIZUATn_g/w512-h288/20190916_154806.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHvnmefj8Gp-V6swZwvhE6Vid5k_7wN8DmL_KlEHAgiGuwNCE94oUXOpCy5Uo44V-KslSzMe3rbmlUn711X2gIStFkK2xKXMEo4AyTxd_c5uvByDGufY1iyXUf_aes7G6g0tsUnIONFjY/s5312/20190916_160358.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHvnmefj8Gp-V6swZwvhE6Vid5k_7wN8DmL_KlEHAgiGuwNCE94oUXOpCy5Uo44V-KslSzMe3rbmlUn711X2gIStFkK2xKXMEo4AyTxd_c5uvByDGufY1iyXUf_aes7G6g0tsUnIONFjY/w512-h288/20190916_160358.jpg" width="512" /></a></div> <p></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Our overnight stop was a little further on near
Bardigues – the beautiful Le Farat B&B. After settling in, we took a swim
in the outdoor pool and felt very chic. Dinner was at Le Letit Palais back in
Auvillar, the town beautifully lit at night. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQWdS5-FXql2GWiSb1VKwMcnGyfmSevUGI1YXxBF_W9N2K1Tzb6wUm1PpCJJDxURsdhPEOEB_PFChbD8qVNHJMYXVoM4yBiLX_Hi0udhTDNEGQeiT39qY3Ol-tBSAA6NUCWfX-Qo7e2Ng/s1440/IMG-20190917-WA0000+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQWdS5-FXql2GWiSb1VKwMcnGyfmSevUGI1YXxBF_W9N2K1Tzb6wUm1PpCJJDxURsdhPEOEB_PFChbD8qVNHJMYXVoM4yBiLX_Hi0udhTDNEGQeiT39qY3Ol-tBSAA6NUCWfX-Qo7e2Ng/s640/IMG-20190917-WA0000+%25281%2529.jpg" /></a></div> <p></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><u><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Day 3 Bardigues to Lectoure – 19.50
miles<o:p></o:p></span></u></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Day 3 was a lengthy stretch from Bardigues to
Lectoure. With high temperatures of over 30C expected we aimed to set off early
to make the most of the cool conditions, but inevitably on longer days it is
difficult to avoid the full afternoon sun altogether.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNArFElV6LQNa8Dk4ZkA0L5WTcCafCD11uTvjgiCG0CmlpyPobPFjJCK-iw1uni9iVtBgnn4tXSf5U1LSPv1pfH7k4wsoFI-m-EDcUebxyE8inAYvrgdL02-MLZ_pQGRmJk5IqpI9CBKI/s5312/20190917_095537.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5312" data-original-width="2988" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNArFElV6LQNa8Dk4ZkA0L5WTcCafCD11uTvjgiCG0CmlpyPobPFjJCK-iw1uni9iVtBgnn4tXSf5U1LSPv1pfH7k4wsoFI-m-EDcUebxyE8inAYvrgdL02-MLZ_pQGRmJk5IqpI9CBKI/s640/20190917_095537.jpg" /></a></div> <p></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: justify; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Leaving
Bardigues, there were quite a few pilgrims already on the trail. We have
noticed that mornings are busier, confirmed by a group of Aussies we chatted
with over soft drinks at Flamerens who were only going as far as Miradoux.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyePtyVBLRL2wC6wZDgG6KXz80NCanPTkKJncL-CSWs-qcso_2Wgb-qqc9bpI75V-kKOAw8x5JJN1-FJxvamyKTGa20tL0dJ1ODeapQEKcdafh82m-CEZgQVw3sbdlPHbvja54HCPbRbo/s5312/20190917_104514.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyePtyVBLRL2wC6wZDgG6KXz80NCanPTkKJncL-CSWs-qcso_2Wgb-qqc9bpI75V-kKOAw8x5JJN1-FJxvamyKTGa20tL0dJ1ODeapQEKcdafh82m-CEZgQVw3sbdlPHbvja54HCPbRbo/w512-h288/20190917_104514.jpg" width="512" /></a></div> <p></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: justify; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">We only
stopped bri<span class="textexposedshow">efly there, planning to have a longer
stop at the next village. But the shop was closed, so we ate emergency rations
and drank water.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Towards the end of the day, as Lectoure came
into sight, we passed a roadside fruit stall and tucked into fresh peaches -
just what we needed to fortify us for the final stretch. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Lectoure is a lovely town. We had a brief look
round and bought quiches for tea: sadly, not enough time for a proper
exploration.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaQrddkoBgD_0yMa1Rrgt_OPG26FxL9XK9d6hQqhjZsa8RvjehkrSqCTx2V2YqR-C9-1yqppan_iuz9qpln20TrIAeIAoJlm3qPDSCoCSE7JaA6Ed-ItBSVqhp2xErEyTszyt_BDV9q2U/s5312/20190918_080100.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaQrddkoBgD_0yMa1Rrgt_OPG26FxL9XK9d6hQqhjZsa8RvjehkrSqCTx2V2YqR-C9-1yqppan_iuz9qpln20TrIAeIAoJlm3qPDSCoCSE7JaA6Ed-ItBSVqhp2xErEyTszyt_BDV9q2U/w512-h288/20190918_080100.jpg" width="512" /></a></div> <p></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><u><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Day 4 Lectour to Condom 21.00 miles<o:p></o:p></span></u></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Our fourth day <i>en route</i> was the longest
so far, 21 miles from Lectoure to Condom. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; text-align: start;">Setting out
early, we bought lunch from the boulangerie then left Lectoure on a circuitous
route through the town walls before heading out into the countryside.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_lWcL3vzasnt_79ikZg_VeWtzz9NTNJ9ch0JNtAFqZl4p_VC-gGCOOlCtH3hjR8MsRd6C4cgnNz7DYyEm1JxLbFbhWuYMGtoVSGzyS7hbY8l-fft_36MwHaazBJZ3PZ5wAiqNdKYWQsM/s5312/20190918_084607.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_lWcL3vzasnt_79ikZg_VeWtzz9NTNJ9ch0JNtAFqZl4p_VC-gGCOOlCtH3hjR8MsRd6C4cgnNz7DYyEm1JxLbFbhWuYMGtoVSGzyS7hbY8l-fft_36MwHaazBJZ3PZ5wAiqNdKYWQsM/w512-h288/20190918_084607.jpg" width="512" /></a></div> <p></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: justify; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Early
morning knots of pilgrims gradually spread out throughout the day, and soon we
were walking pretty much on our own. If that sounds a little anti-social, it
isn't meant to - company, and the knowledge that other people are about i<span class="textexposedshow">s great, but solitude, or at least quiet, are key aspects
of a pilgrimage too.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4yBwQpaWQRC4FGovkHczZw2Z9qL3dG0TDi3YB_gDGXFGAsd9-3QxdSZDV1D7rywRDvckXQ3OlVn-Wtzc2bXNftm7m-O0pxrx9lpTPVsshXiiT5DlR7aOcIGeA0zp9wsuQItk3s3SQ9g4/s5312/20190918_130822.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4yBwQpaWQRC4FGovkHczZw2Z9qL3dG0TDi3YB_gDGXFGAsd9-3QxdSZDV1D7rywRDvckXQ3OlVn-Wtzc2bXNftm7m-O0pxrx9lpTPVsshXiiT5DlR7aOcIGeA0zp9wsuQItk3s3SQ9g4/w512-h288/20190918_130822.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><p></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">We stopped for water and a breather in Marsolan
and pushed on to La Romieu. There is a shortcut that misses La Romieu and saves
around 6k, but we wanted full value for our day. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">We had decided on a lunch stop in the old town,
but on arriving at around 1.20pm we were told lunch was "complet".
However, with a bit of negotiating we procured beers and coffees, which was
actually all we wanted.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh6Id-W6ffe8JpL9Vgi9uxSJnLVmcV_2m78GHsMJ2zyJJ4CWLpcuTSKXew2i2GUVopjlL-Xq6U6unXEb6gIzKr7vEloFv6CVOPlq2c5wgTkqJ0OgvaboG1cDTXU9O0oKQ65cGLCfZNXYI/s5312/20190918_154140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh6Id-W6ffe8JpL9Vgi9uxSJnLVmcV_2m78GHsMJ2zyJJ4CWLpcuTSKXew2i2GUVopjlL-Xq6U6unXEb6gIzKr7vEloFv6CVOPlq2c5wgTkqJ0OgvaboG1cDTXU9O0oKQ65cGLCfZNXYI/w512-h288/20190918_154140.jpg" width="512" /></a></div> <p></p>
<p class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">The afternoon was again hot, but we had plenty
of water on board and topped up in Castelnau-sur-L'Auvignon. Also, like
yesterday, the last 10k of the day skirted pretty much all the towns and
villages, and we saw virtually no-one. However, we reached Condom without
incident and checked into our digs. It was too late to explore the town, but
there was enough time for a welcome shower and change of clothing before
dinner.<o:p></o:p></span></p><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcazNrD_C-Ez0SJ29SmnQfhQRfMBqO1DFBMnCS5QY3GPzZMBIgB33N2Gv3tgj6BN9INc9r3NBYT0w-TwUcgSy1rJVdZ2YUw97OhBROEfvSAYnkWeqAzMcJunCSi8lagoBBRw-F0XmIov4/s5312/20190919_094203.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5312" data-original-width="2988" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcazNrD_C-Ez0SJ29SmnQfhQRfMBqO1DFBMnCS5QY3GPzZMBIgB33N2Gv3tgj6BN9INc9r3NBYT0w-TwUcgSy1rJVdZ2YUw97OhBROEfvSAYnkWeqAzMcJunCSi8lagoBBRw-F0XmIov4/s640/20190919_094203.jpg" /></a></div>Julian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8924560762707341331.post-51379964305790711162020-07-27T08:57:00.000-07:002020-07-27T08:57:14.314-07:00Well, Hello Again<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6gvCJACaj3LPAhFQYDQLpQPvi6bftq07sZrSEm5iW3TfLoOjk2DwZBx1yjf3mtENK_HMFSQ6EwCLLR1i-D7W0YwnzgMwjP7qcbxX50caPxOdp_GLH8X7KmMO8bWz3d7eeOwlIZxhLD00/s1600/Tunnel+Photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1439" data-original-width="1019" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6gvCJACaj3LPAhFQYDQLpQPvi6bftq07sZrSEm5iW3TfLoOjk2DwZBx1yjf3mtENK_HMFSQ6EwCLLR1i-D7W0YwnzgMwjP7qcbxX50caPxOdp_GLH8X7KmMO8bWz3d7eeOwlIZxhLD00/s640/Tunnel+Photo.jpg" width="452" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">It’s
been quite some time since my last post here. Contrary to popular belief, I haven't been subject to an alien abduction, rather a hefty work schedule and a couple of projects on the go have meant that my
focus has been directed elsewhere. However, now that I find myself with a bit
more time on my hands I plan to catch up on a few reports over the coming weeks.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">I’m
going to begin with the final set of posts about our Le Puy to St Jean Pied de
Port trip, and then see what else springs to mind. Having written about all the
other sections of the Camino Frances and the Via Podiensis it would be a shame
not to conclude that chapter and have a full record for when I’m ready to
reminisce.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">In
truth, I’ve missed blogging here, and also missed reading about others’
adventures too. So, it’s about time I put that right.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
Julian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8924560762707341331.post-13940791193248819982017-11-05T10:11:00.000-08:002017-11-05T10:11:50.074-08:00Trail Lynx - A New Era Begins<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">After
several years of posting to Ambles & Rambles, during which time I’ve logged
dozens of trips, hundreds of walks, a handful of gear reviews and a sprinkling
of other walking-related issues, I’ve decided the time has come to make a few
changes. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqW_OX0RFKF99U8zbmoEXc0pOpcgFOiZkjB3F0-X_evWZtbYrbJjte5bieoEFvsmHjefpOmL9p5g8ZDtd63oC_QC9eBDysOFyHem70OPsYYurGSpHJnCZV4-V9Er2edbitPVeC26UWC00/s1600/20171015_113630.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqW_OX0RFKF99U8zbmoEXc0pOpcgFOiZkjB3F0-X_evWZtbYrbJjte5bieoEFvsmHjefpOmL9p5g8ZDtd63oC_QC9eBDysOFyHem70OPsYYurGSpHJnCZV4-V9Er2edbitPVeC26UWC00/s400/20171015_113630.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiking in Poland</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">To
be honest, since the design and format has barely changed since I started the
blog back in 2010, it’s probably time for a refresh, so I’m planning to give it
a bit of a makeover when I get the time.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">So,
first of all I’d like to say a big “thank you” to everyone who has read,
commented or otherwise contributed to the blog so far – although I do it
primarily as a record for myself, it’s always nice to get comments, especially
if in some small way the posts have been of help or encouragement to others.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiu-qgXO-sNuz8QGckaOZtthjI7Ya3SJjZQdPmwCFC0WPBhHr2pQ55sjLxKk_omluXA_b6zh9q_FdYTQZfoFmXhl1KcMS8j8fErYii0aXFQvnqj7lwSKyl5Xyym2kkdU5AEwVIkj6QmtA/s1600/P6300190.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiu-qgXO-sNuz8QGckaOZtthjI7Ya3SJjZQdPmwCFC0WPBhHr2pQ55sjLxKk_omluXA_b6zh9q_FdYTQZfoFmXhl1KcMS8j8fErYii0aXFQvnqj7lwSKyl5Xyym2kkdU5AEwVIkj6QmtA/s400/P6300190.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kom Vasojevicki, Montenegro</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">But
the big news for me is the launch of <a href="https://www.traillynx.com/">Trail
Lynx</a> a new site aimed at promoting travel and hiking in the Balkans and Eastern
Europe. From now on, all trip reports, travel tips and news items relating to
the region will appear there, with the aim that it will information and
inspiration and eventually build into a useful resource for those interested in
exploring this wonderful part of the world. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1TVY-zIdCrkYsyXDZP1ZJPbhChtrVG14puk1GTipmw7iGAtGi2ckT5vncF1LlEepEWCgLVZ-WByx0ecwSpV1mLEUy1q2Eez2PkiVMkLIdILjjWLbLhqgQLwdDj_Hcq_k7MhjS3Ns7DZE/s1600/IMG_6445.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1TVY-zIdCrkYsyXDZP1ZJPbhChtrVG14puk1GTipmw7iGAtGi2ckT5vncF1LlEepEWCgLVZ-WByx0ecwSpV1mLEUy1q2Eez2PkiVMkLIdILjjWLbLhqgQLwdDj_Hcq_k7MhjS3Ns7DZE/s400/IMG_6445.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Southern Bucovina, Romania</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">To
get the ball rolling, the report for our recent long weekend in Poland has been
published there, and I hope that you’ll take the opportunity to visit the new
site and maybe choose to follow it.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><a href="https://www.traillynx.com/single-post/2017/11/03/Polish-Perfection">Polish
Perfection</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Any
thoughts or feedback would be most welcome, and I look forward to meeting up
with some of you over there.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">In
the meantime, Ambles & Rambles will continue to be the home for news and
reports from the UK, other parts of Europe and elsewhere.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Julian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8924560762707341331.post-70801335573905875382017-11-05T09:35:00.000-08:002017-11-05T09:35:26.672-08:00A Capital Idea – Part 4: Falconwood to Richmond<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="_Hlk497647624"><u><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Day 1: Falconwood to
Streatham Common<o:p></o:p></span></u></a></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">18.00
miles<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">And so to the final sections of the Capital
Ring, the round-London walk we started back in the autumn of 2016. Initially,
we’d intended this to be a winter project, but the loss of my father in the
early part of this year meant these final few miles had been necessarily put on
hold. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">However, the opportunity to complete the walk presented itself when we booked tickets to see Tears For Fears at the Royal Albert Hall and decided to book an extra night’s accommodation and “make a weekend” of it.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5ZPeM0YPgyvpH9MkEitxUaYclAAeFGDyT55t6pp-3_06csUVhEaX5cp1yc1SVBUUyMDpR0ZWE8E6eRANGdU5RDJZo0Hwq09WlPXGUBqosagWKSgw9vD5BsWz5tPwYmBucqrB1EB-35gg/s1600/20171028_112237_001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5ZPeM0YPgyvpH9MkEitxUaYclAAeFGDyT55t6pp-3_06csUVhEaX5cp1yc1SVBUUyMDpR0ZWE8E6eRANGdU5RDJZo0Hwq09WlPXGUBqosagWKSgw9vD5BsWz5tPwYmBucqrB1EB-35gg/s400/20171028_112237_001.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On King John's Walk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">So, bright and early despite the late night the night before, we transferred out to Falconwood to pick up where we left off before, where our initial move was to tackle the loop</span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> through Shepherdleas Wood</span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> that we couldn’t complete last time due to rapidly-fading light.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn2DxII-B28z5Gpm0EZ3xrJ6wFPAt76b1LIGMWz1_CIgN7vpB7bJlmqqPR3FEuLnavvlrrmLyzkCYg_CsS_2-akBCf6IybedSDHUl3rNDhk3XiL2lX8681zts2yzQDeniyF4a_4LubDPQ/s1600/20171028_120309_001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn2DxII-B28z5Gpm0EZ3xrJ6wFPAt76b1LIGMWz1_CIgN7vpB7bJlmqqPR3FEuLnavvlrrmLyzkCYg_CsS_2-akBCf6IybedSDHUl3rNDhk3XiL2lX8681zts2yzQDeniyF4a_4LubDPQ/s400/20171028_120309_001.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coffee break, with a distant view of <br />The Shard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">That done, we picked up Section 2 of the Capital Ring, passing through Eltham Park and Avery Hill Park (where we were navigationally challenged for a few minutes) and beside Eltham College on the way towards Grove Park. It was good to be out and about again, and once again we seemed to have struck luck with the weather.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">After the parkland and residential streets of Section 2, the next section followed a similar pattern of park areas connected by suburban streets. All of this area was new to us, and despite offering little in the way of challenge, the walking was pleasant enough.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaIGLQA3_0099Ur_8cXs-BSIKzVE_3BTBOqpVEkue8584FHcrUnBbPCw2RUpzjUoo-sU0t0NoERXnkGH4mqA3nON3DRDweNIyF8nevsNbtc3fcXbcOwgzsqFNkxilsqhck1YpgJfRSOKs/s1600/20171028_150433_001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaIGLQA3_0099Ur_8cXs-BSIKzVE_3BTBOqpVEkue8584FHcrUnBbPCw2RUpzjUoo-sU0t0NoERXnkGH4mqA3nON3DRDweNIyF8nevsNbtc3fcXbcOwgzsqFNkxilsqhck1YpgJfRSOKs/s400/20171028_150433_001.jpg" width="225" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDxp4MMUrjAl8BTx95BRvdelWBrq_HL4J4-Td57Ffygy6bXt-Q6l8qXlT1Jznr4gz1J8bciemQ_y8xCzm0XedV5IOXPyiu7Py0BZGLUjE3QhuWTOmS-V0NWr8dxPXlQvqxyM8sEsy3YBA/s1600/20171028_150628_001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDxp4MMUrjAl8BTx95BRvdelWBrq_HL4J4-Td57Ffygy6bXt-Q6l8qXlT1Jznr4gz1J8bciemQ_y8xCzm0XedV5IOXPyiu7Py0BZGLUjE3QhuWTOmS-V0NWr8dxPXlQvqxyM8sEsy3YBA/s400/20171028_150628_001.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dinosaurs in Crystal Palace Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">We stopped for a quick lunch break at the café in
Beckenham Place Park, then continued on through Penge to reach Crystal Palace
Park. All I really know about Crystal Palace is that it used to be the location
of the cast-iron-and-glass structure of the same name that was destroyed by
fire in 1936, and is currently home to a bunch of large, lumbering creatures
whose best years are well behind them. No, not the players of the under-performing
football team of the same name, but dinosaurs!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiASkFuvLk6Isn-u8IPIXWEjqV2ULfvXwdygFIlwiXYRqWIDvuhtJP-mKQUQmUr8QiwAKSHa5abAj7Phsa8R6rPACFePess0kc720JsKJqUliMZDjGzbLYBv5AnwAPLuOPHXCiAYjyPZcw/s1600/20171028_160532.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiASkFuvLk6Isn-u8IPIXWEjqV2ULfvXwdygFIlwiXYRqWIDvuhtJP-mKQUQmUr8QiwAKSHa5abAj7Phsa8R6rPACFePess0kc720JsKJqUliMZDjGzbLYBv5AnwAPLuOPHXCiAYjyPZcw/s400/20171028_160532.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Upper Norwood Recreation Ground</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Originally, we’d only planned to walk as far as
Norwood today, but with the weather good and time on our side we decided we
could make a couple more miles so pushed on to Streatham. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIHFVh2ltNjApmk9jRBNxZKr1KroFEltyh2UB7_zFtkI3Vzk47-0sUwXtaB5YuoHNMcJE2QLYygejLlJHn2jlk5F-Es-fXVQT5HvuJHA5cTt3rcgTQuF5GykUx75YnHvkfLhIvRGeRbVo/s1600/20171028_164216_001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIHFVh2ltNjApmk9jRBNxZKr1KroFEltyh2UB7_zFtkI3Vzk47-0sUwXtaB5YuoHNMcJE2QLYygejLlJHn2jlk5F-Es-fXVQT5HvuJHA5cTt3rcgTQuF5GykUx75YnHvkfLhIvRGeRbVo/s400/20171028_164216_001.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Norwood Grove</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Crossing the Common,
we eyed up the buses on the High Road. We had set our sights on eating in
Brixton, which was just a few minutes away with transport. Well, you can’t come
to one of the country’s premier international food centres and not give it a
go, can you?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEOTm9S_n3_i6bSI4ShwuG6O2rmG_Vwq6G3OqcuEhFw7LfcRDUQWyVMgbmsVuNg3Sad-HIJM8bwKROyru0wsy69AKU4BuWyoynA5i06Wi6sjuJ6OPk1m0O9YppdMeV9boBdNovV491npc/s1600/20171028_164344.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEOTm9S_n3_i6bSI4ShwuG6O2rmG_Vwq6G3OqcuEhFw7LfcRDUQWyVMgbmsVuNg3Sad-HIJM8bwKROyru0wsy69AKU4BuWyoynA5i06Wi6sjuJ6OPk1m0O9YppdMeV9boBdNovV491npc/s400/20171028_164344.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fading light over Streatham</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">If you’re a bit of a foodie and you’ve never
been to Brixton Village, I recommend you give it a try sometime. The Souk-like
interior harbours all manner of curious foodstuffs and enticing ingredients, the
narrow alleys reveal something of interest at every turn, and the exotic
ambience definitely has a touch of “abroad” about it. We chose a selection of
terrine and charcuterie from Corsica – delicious! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv_IgjDoFhLFSHf5ypwk1fNIclM5-FXPByTxzqy3arbO-WQ2tD7IGOvZZrwYEGyAdZGKiNDVZX2ffcYqOQitrv59n-NQ3ReiK5efYU9IQFbWVoiz30kCy0Gq7oqq9hk1RR4v1ZDbNXnZ0/s1600/20171028_180018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv_IgjDoFhLFSHf5ypwk1fNIclM5-FXPByTxzqy3arbO-WQ2tD7IGOvZZrwYEGyAdZGKiNDVZX2ffcYqOQitrv59n-NQ3ReiK5efYU9IQFbWVoiz30kCy0Gq7oqq9hk1RR4v1ZDbNXnZ0/s400/20171028_180018.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charcuterie!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<u><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Day 2: Streatham Common to Richmond
Bridge</span></u></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">14.00 miles<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Next day, we made our way back the Streatham on
a cool but bright morning. The stage between Streatham and Wimbledon Park
crosses Tooting Bec and Wandsworth Common, but is primarily walking on
residential streets.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">So, although the going is easy enough, there is
perhaps a little less to enthuse the walker than on some other sections. Still,
there were plenty of leaves to kick through on this autumn morning, which
helped pass the time and eat up the miles. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyThMWYvM9xy5S_4nLBMFR_OTqT43qnb3Oq-vfxvhnskzy5_OqpTtMwAboH4AAYjUlS0gDAPzkxyJBQW1fOyYVS7kzcAeP2iTrNcEzx0ULOXCps-7kTJYog3vnt9v2zq5h8SReY0Y6ilw/s1600/20171029_095231_001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyThMWYvM9xy5S_4nLBMFR_OTqT43qnb3Oq-vfxvhnskzy5_OqpTtMwAboH4AAYjUlS0gDAPzkxyJBQW1fOyYVS7kzcAeP2iTrNcEzx0ULOXCps-7kTJYog3vnt9v2zq5h8SReY0Y6ilw/s400/20171029_095231_001.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wandsworth Common</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Having passed HMP Brixton on the bus, it was
now time to walk past Wandsworth Prison, situated incongruously between the
green of the Common, the well-to-do houses and Wandsworth Cemetery.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">We stopped for coffee in Wimbledon Park, in a café
just down from the station. On the morning of the fall-out from Catalonia’s unilateral
declaration of Independence from Spain, we found ourselves at a Spanish bar.
The papers were full of the story: needless to say, politics was off the
conversation agenda.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1UuZD5RxZ6nilSXHVlwenMJNK8ONA9sTbg8VYyb-WsMFZPHqluctoK7NWiroDU3DqpNKPJVxt5WIHlqKhoJ4jL6WediAcKfWLZKSwr_TFh215i9JUsGI8ydToElotggBnfpPgPYfWihc/s1600/20171029_112926.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1UuZD5RxZ6nilSXHVlwenMJNK8ONA9sTbg8VYyb-WsMFZPHqluctoK7NWiroDU3DqpNKPJVxt5WIHlqKhoJ4jL6WediAcKfWLZKSwr_TFh215i9JUsGI8ydToElotggBnfpPgPYfWihc/s400/20171029_112926.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wimbledon Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">The final section took us through Wimbledon
Park, across Wimbledon Common and via Richmond Park to reach Richmond Bridge.
We had covered some of this section before with our friends Celia and Nick,
back when we were just scoping the route. The Common was much quieter than last
time, when we got caught up with the Wimbledon Half Marathon.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_wmthY6tyAz7pPsjga5HYjONxKZUjLXjD_gRR1nRqo88AY-64tzFdGKLjIPga91A0dGmFKxdJC-KLKFd85yfWhpRzuBvqi1W-koDAEJlCf3thzV3vz9qa-rztS-VEKOqpoyI6IdvTuQg/s1600/20171029_133914.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_wmthY6tyAz7pPsjga5HYjONxKZUjLXjD_gRR1nRqo88AY-64tzFdGKLjIPga91A0dGmFKxdJC-KLKFd85yfWhpRzuBvqi1W-koDAEJlCf3thzV3vz9qa-rztS-VEKOqpoyI6IdvTuQg/s400/20171029_133914.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pen Ponds</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Richmond Park was looking splendid in the
afternoon sunshine. After taking a break on one of the park benches, we
followed the route between Pen Ponds and on to Pemboke Lodge where we picked up
a late lunch. It was busy, and although it was nice to retrace our steps from
last year, see the protected view of St Paul’s Cathedral from Harry’s Mound and
enjoy the wide view of Twickenham, Windsor Castle and the Thames as we
descended towards Petersham Meadow, it was marred somewhat by dawdlers and
path-hogs.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJT6RJw8Mot4GgHRt0-07LTpZwE5xccMzbVy_tNOhI9vagrwCCwLnn6xQFJLHKRtFwgC1WIZJ2LF9MZzBKT3mArIW9VEwYnhrmlMrzbZOxibtqD1YZWznpqa69zQyDZK2nUsQ3jyp_-Gg/s1600/20171029_135049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJT6RJw8Mot4GgHRt0-07LTpZwE5xccMzbVy_tNOhI9vagrwCCwLnn6xQFJLHKRtFwgC1WIZJ2LF9MZzBKT3mArIW9VEwYnhrmlMrzbZOxibtqD1YZWznpqa69zQyDZK2nUsQ3jyp_-Gg/s400/20171029_135049.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading for Pembroke Lodge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">We had a final sit beside The Thames,
reflecting on the weekend and the walk in full. And overall, we were very satisfied
with both. The big advantage of a walk like the Capital Ring is that it is a
good choice for the winter months, when the generally easy going and relatively
mud-free walking really come into their own.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">OK, so it had taken a bit longer than initially
planned, but that couldn’t be helped. Having completed both, I think we are of
the opinion that we’d tackle the Capital Ring and the London LOOP again
sometime – perhaps even as soon as next winter.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Gv07PJ30lzIx8WCfZCa_QKvwu1Yt1NEuT71H2DClb4EB0CTQQp4azjJHPPjnJUqOUvEyI24iRQBzIbKYgM37wPwrjvpgcUXnkKGW0AhVauHaoRy6Tx1wtivCvZyuMUHnMwOIkWA8wwo/s1600/20171029_144029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Gv07PJ30lzIx8WCfZCa_QKvwu1Yt1NEuT71H2DClb4EB0CTQQp4azjJHPPjnJUqOUvEyI24iRQBzIbKYgM37wPwrjvpgcUXnkKGW0AhVauHaoRy6Tx1wtivCvZyuMUHnMwOIkWA8wwo/s400/20171029_144029.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Descending towards Petersham Meadows</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Whatever the future brings, we are very glad to
have completed these routes – routes that have had the ability to surprise us
in many different ways. We’ve seen a lot more of London than we ever had
before, grown to appreciate the history, geography, culture and diversity of
our capital, and in the process got to know it’s character a whole lot better.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">And do you know what? We’re all the better for
it too. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
Julian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8924560762707341331.post-3165797513939434812017-07-23T09:16:00.001-07:002017-07-23T09:40:29.738-07:00Back In Black Mountain: Part 3<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Day
4 – No Mountains, but a Canyon and a Meeting<o:p></o:p></span></u></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">15.00k<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">As
though the weather this weekend is in two minds whether to be nice or nasty, it
was stormy overnight, with strong winds and driving rain. But we woke to a
promising morning, and with breakfast taken and goodbyes said, it was time to
leave the Eco <span style="background: white;">Katun Štavna and head for our
final hike on this all-too-brief tour. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Once again, the drive we took could be considered
spectacular. As we descended around 1500m on winding roads between soaring
peaks, the mountains seemed almost Himalayan in stature, such was the imposing
nature of the summits and steep-sided valleys.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Of course, we know that Montenegro is blessed with an almost
incalculable number of mountain peaks, but it is also home to an abundance of
canyons too, and our plan for today was to walk into one of them – Mrtvica
Canyon. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRRbdIlPDgGctoLLI_aMJVh_x2IbYlP1GrolLyJTzvIImOPaer-UT8R_aRwcRc6G12qS2biYtecXoi9pDdj855FDDmTAGv4hcuOHxCEe5JXFz0WF0A74EN_1V95EjJgIoD7A8YShCaDV8/s1600/P7010208.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRRbdIlPDgGctoLLI_aMJVh_x2IbYlP1GrolLyJTzvIImOPaer-UT8R_aRwcRc6G12qS2biYtecXoi9pDdj855FDDmTAGv4hcuOHxCEe5JXFz0WF0A74EN_1V95EjJgIoD7A8YShCaDV8/s400/P7010208.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Narrow path near the beginning of the walk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Down at lower altitude, the weather was much warmer and lacked
the mitigating fresh breeze of higher levels, and as we arrived the thermometer
was hovering around the 30°C mark.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">The start of the hike is not at first obvious, an
apologetically small path leading off into the bushes. But as soon as we were
underway the route became generally clear, and we made swift progress. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGTrpgqY1LMFvPbr3Wam9ZV8vOkcsHyRB41exdDvxGId3fLFV4nv53OuFOQTuDbT3Ss7A1VMhdvhxdf79D_4lqfwGNKeEQMooz_vhKrToEQvol-9szMnruZDVmSDFOioEqNlLXNAN4Bfk/s1600/P7010210.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGTrpgqY1LMFvPbr3Wam9ZV8vOkcsHyRB41exdDvxGId3fLFV4nv53OuFOQTuDbT3Ss7A1VMhdvhxdf79D_4lqfwGNKeEQMooz_vhKrToEQvol-9szMnruZDVmSDFOioEqNlLXNAN4Bfk/s400/P7010210.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bridge built by Duke Danilo Petrovic Njegos in 1858</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">For the first couple of kilometres the canyon is quite wide,
but beyond the stone bridge built by Duke Danilo Petrović Njegoš in 1858 the
gorge narrows and the sides steepen, and the tumbling river-course is close by
to our left.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaBzFnsdUr654yAyb7ooNrgRV7u2D5z_CAu640P9SMhuzatn_EsxnKrVFOTs4BE6R4zdm-yInWN5VcldBGaATgm2woVDAz16MJRr8AsqvplZ89k5AR1FxwRF15Cn2uynTFUq6EqeY_mxY/s1600/P7010212.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaBzFnsdUr654yAyb7ooNrgRV7u2D5z_CAu640P9SMhuzatn_EsxnKrVFOTs4BE6R4zdm-yInWN5VcldBGaATgm2woVDAz16MJRr8AsqvplZ89k5AR1FxwRF15Cn2uynTFUq6EqeY_mxY/s400/P7010212.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Farm on the valley floor before the canyon narrows</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">A little further on we came to the <i>Kapija
želja</i> – the </span><span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">“Gate of Wishes” – where we rested for a while and, as
tradition has it, threw in a pebble and made a wish. I can’t tell you what I
wished for, but if it comes true we might be seeing more of this amazing
country in the not-too-distant future.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">And, in such a magical place, why shouldn’t wishes come true?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi0xLjYEkqqaW2iBWdUT3uEIgiEMTHEY8i932obQbUoLB4Lqx_V2a3CA_SFjjBoM_76833e4jI8RKuoQUKBdxv1yrL1jTTjk0ui6sAq94g2N-0yTHpDttGjJFw85bBzFTaoLMnVvs7PEY/s1600/P7010216.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi0xLjYEkqqaW2iBWdUT3uEIgiEMTHEY8i932obQbUoLB4Lqx_V2a3CA_SFjjBoM_76833e4jI8RKuoQUKBdxv1yrL1jTTjk0ui6sAq94g2N-0yTHpDttGjJFw85bBzFTaoLMnVvs7PEY/s400/P7010216.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Take a pebble, make a wish .... but don't tell</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYSROWYzsTlxf0gtLDaYe6eyM6GErLShWLBonopUdiRdQpwDjKmvjuz72qOqFTzr8Q5wyJJ0OCeEF0Ro0f0i1W7O9CTbl36FEea9Xone2Nkna6_4udBiBonSJ4jUGbRwBUT4LkGwBzxpY/s1600/P7010219.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYSROWYzsTlxf0gtLDaYe6eyM6GErLShWLBonopUdiRdQpwDjKmvjuz72qOqFTzr8Q5wyJJ0OCeEF0Ro0f0i1W7O9CTbl36FEea9Xone2Nkna6_4udBiBonSJ4jUGbRwBUT4LkGwBzxpY/s400/P7010219.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The ravine became increasingly narrow ....</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjegQAXrwCSXVLN1ZyOmv2QR5LQM_gRiW2nUk7aSf8gREL1R4HOBS0tREAWOPxGhwiAMqLBxwEheHYd8ParBw7MYK01P9AtP-WR0HC8lEaN69tiNNhbJX_8wur-3y3HGca6EqPjo_tVN6s/s1600/P7010220.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjegQAXrwCSXVLN1ZyOmv2QR5LQM_gRiW2nUk7aSf8gREL1R4HOBS0tREAWOPxGhwiAMqLBxwEheHYd8ParBw7MYK01P9AtP-WR0HC8lEaN69tiNNhbJX_8wur-3y3HGca6EqPjo_tVN6s/s400/P7010220.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">.... and the path clung to the side of the cliff</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">The path we were on followed the route of an old foot way
between two villages. In some places, it was not so obvious that
once-upon-a-time this was quite a major route, but a few minutes further on we
came to the Mrtvičke Grede, a semi-tunnel carved into the rock (by the Yugoslav
Army) that clearly demonstrated the hand of human intervention.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqeFgV5N3njgwpVskRvf_ZAhaQ_lDXxhq0WYWBjYZcmQjNyYGv21OeSmqUBlRKr_hK3IbuaTdhN3InFqepXw4tTftpEx2pHHV31vW8NSD5V1i35TPsY-vVisjX69jOAneSX8fNUGTCzzc/s1600/P7010221.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqeFgV5N3njgwpVskRvf_ZAhaQ_lDXxhq0WYWBjYZcmQjNyYGv21OeSmqUBlRKr_hK3IbuaTdhN3InFqepXw4tTftpEx2pHHV31vW8NSD5V1i35TPsY-vVisjX69jOAneSX8fNUGTCzzc/s400/P7010221.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Mrtvicke Grede, carved into the cliff-face</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">It’s plenty high and wide enough for safe passage, but with a
significant drop to the left it’s worth staying as close to the inside as
possible, just to be on the safe side!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfgGKAgAypJmmh_pASCs24AaNTYHJsgTufgAUPyJwC88J-JZCa6ja1VnWloDyFnnMOWFmuFsly9_2Zn5pz6BG34p15Op0tVwUzrOD7oBnTOx7gfIKcX8qgc5AnQZ3YEpBIOapo-TBRvBs/s1600/P7010226.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfgGKAgAypJmmh_pASCs24AaNTYHJsgTufgAUPyJwC88J-JZCa6ja1VnWloDyFnnMOWFmuFsly9_2Zn5pz6BG34p15Op0tVwUzrOD7oBnTOx7gfIKcX8qgc5AnQZ3YEpBIOapo-TBRvBs/s400/P7010226.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Keeping to the inside to be on the safe side</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Shortly afterwards, we reached a series of pools where we
were to have lunch. The only slight snag was that because of low water levels,
the pools were actually empty. No matter, we were happy to forego a chilly swim
for the chance to enjoy the quiet magnificence of the canyon as we sat and ate
our lunch.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEe-4V3YLqy3eBPucc1EnslYx93dyJ2vTriB3MtfmBpUylYnsQJG6eMpCWEkPKECNMEt9jFBXbUYi7iIfncYC0WpjxfQFY5PSMG5XPbVyGIjMHq5Us75-DmS_3g9rOniJQ_oqzvzWFLMw/s1600/P7010228.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEe-4V3YLqy3eBPucc1EnslYx93dyJ2vTriB3MtfmBpUylYnsQJG6eMpCWEkPKECNMEt9jFBXbUYi7iIfncYC0WpjxfQFY5PSMG5XPbVyGIjMHq5Us75-DmS_3g9rOniJQ_oqzvzWFLMw/s400/P7010228.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No water in the pools</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Our return was by the same route – Mrtvičke Grede, the Gate
of Wishes, Duke Danilo’s stone bridge – and although we set off at a modest
pace, we made good time, only breaking our trek to top up on cool water from
the spring along the way.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmJ9R1Cjjv5FIZXcehhbqrbBwYnvZMEIr5NJQmEEmxKNSZvTwS0nc2QgL1FrkgqnIRNV47R9uuByCFSAtW9IjDJnL2xKVyEs3HdGVeJJhO2jmMKN9UwJdhseDVXGOguJIXXAccQ5kMxe0/s1600/P7010232.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmJ9R1Cjjv5FIZXcehhbqrbBwYnvZMEIr5NJQmEEmxKNSZvTwS0nc2QgL1FrkgqnIRNV47R9uuByCFSAtW9IjDJnL2xKVyEs3HdGVeJJhO2jmMKN9UwJdhseDVXGOguJIXXAccQ5kMxe0/s400/P7010232.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A last look along the valley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuAVgV3qAZRfU5xCsfUWVlIeSu-huv2rf_6Ghp5tWqtLCYiXLrUAnhaIRpy5yndiJR7yWmn9kRV7Bpm-sSXuFwHfeiF1rF5kWIK_8LihcmFDpTPj83eB1in63qZpagEl6v-s3oVul1HRE/s1600/P7010230.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuAVgV3qAZRfU5xCsfUWVlIeSu-huv2rf_6Ghp5tWqtLCYiXLrUAnhaIRpy5yndiJR7yWmn9kRV7Bpm-sSXuFwHfeiF1rF5kWIK_8LihcmFDpTPj83eB1in63qZpagEl6v-s3oVul1HRE/s400/P7010230.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cooling down on the way back</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Back at the car, we performed a quick-change routine, and
managed to get ourselves tidied up a little bit. We were heading for Podgorica
and a meeting with Brit and Astrid from Meanderbug, the adventure, travel and
farm-stay experts who offer authentic eco-friendly and off-the-beaten-track travel
and cultural experiences that give real benefit to local communities.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">If you are thinking of visiting Montenegro, planning a trip
or wondering about farm-stay opportunities, their website is well worth a look:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="http://www.meanderbug.com/"><span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">www.meanderbug.com</span></a><span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">It was great to chat, to discuss the multitude of possibilities
Montenegro has to offer for outdoor activities, cultural interactions, great
food and stunning scenery, and to share the enthusiasm that we all have for
this wonderful country. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Finally, the time came for us to leave. We headed over to our
hotel, heads spinning with possibilities for future trips, and said goodbye to Dimitrije, for tomorrow we
would be going home. </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">We’d had a great time, and as
well as spending time with a good friend, it was refreshing to be with someone with
so much obvious passion for adventure travel and the positive benefits tourism
can have on his country and its future.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">And will we be back again? Well “Trip 5” got a lot of
mentions during the last few days, so if we have anything to do with it then we
most certainly will. After all, wishes do sometimes come true.</span><br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><a href="http://amblesandrambles.blogspot.co.uk/2017/07/back-in-black-mountain-part-2.html">Back
In Black Mountain: Part 2</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><a href="http://amblesandrambles.blogspot.co.uk/2017/07/back-in-black-mountain-part-3.html">Back
In Black Mountain: Part 3</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
Julian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8924560762707341331.post-45623925942413918182017-07-23T08:31:00.000-07:002017-07-23T10:34:58.930-07:00Back In Black Mountain: Part 2<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Day
3: A Mountain and a Katun<o:p></o:p></span></u></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">9.00k<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">We
made another early start as we left Žabljak on the way to our next destination.
Komovi mountain was around a two-and-a-half-hour drive away, following a route
that would take us via the Tara Canyon, the second deepest canyon in the world
at 1300m.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguraGCrVnc0-G5TZ2vJsQkn668t7mbSEaaYVUpcHvYX1p6JRWRQKBIfsnyB2TQ7TnV0xkPspPCN_8jTYjYm6_WqjICcqzZg0Y5PiU5fPx3_HNYdBIX-pmBejOLfWaNGGDrLrWKYARgLgc/s1600/P6300184.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguraGCrVnc0-G5TZ2vJsQkn668t7mbSEaaYVUpcHvYX1p6JRWRQKBIfsnyB2TQ7TnV0xkPspPCN_8jTYjYm6_WqjICcqzZg0Y5PiU5fPx3_HNYdBIX-pmBejOLfWaNGGDrLrWKYARgLgc/s400/P6300184.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Djurdjevica Bridge over the Tara Canyon is impressive, but <br />
it is hard to convey the scale of the scenery on a small photo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Having
stopped briefly for photos at the </span><span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Djurdjevića
Bridge, we drove along the canyon towards Mojkovac, more often than not in the
shade as the early morning sun had yet to penetrate the depths of the gorge –
one of the many impressive drives to be had in Montenegro.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">After breakfast in Mojkovac, we took a route via Biogradska
Gora and Kolašin and picked up a back road towards Andrijevica, finally winding
our way up from the pass Trešnjevik to reach the Eco Katun Štavna at the foot
of Komovi.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJR-aqTxnxonwgVk-fKIp-zOpGprXfMgA32Ndiq85imJbRvo_q_iVH0KmSv5UbfX_FvgDmuL9cp6ur_cI6rtkYxcGTKuntEkq8Uc_JPMB3TUhZdwWqL-SEdoU_VqHEqtNwwKTledF0qbE/s1600/20170630_190309.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJR-aqTxnxonwgVk-fKIp-zOpGprXfMgA32Ndiq85imJbRvo_q_iVH0KmSv5UbfX_FvgDmuL9cp6ur_cI6rtkYxcGTKuntEkq8Uc_JPMB3TUhZdwWqL-SEdoU_VqHEqtNwwKTledF0qbE/s400/20170630_190309.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eco Katun Stavna at 1700m - a superb setting</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">It’s
a wonderful setting at about 1700m. All the way up we had had tantalising
glimpses of the mountain, but the full glory was saved until reaching</span><span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> Štavna</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO-5qHJT5ZSV5jZACQOhmRdSyu5t930zsxSDokASKaWzpM-38Oaj9LtlBFNwohB8IqT1Fp4GsTQUPBUxdgA3p9Tr1wmpBAM_HZY3wMf1shS1mO_O91mo_Za-XRDqWLcqGKE8mgkRmfzWo/s1600/P6300188.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO-5qHJT5ZSV5jZACQOhmRdSyu5t930zsxSDokASKaWzpM-38Oaj9LtlBFNwohB8IqT1Fp4GsTQUPBUxdgA3p9Tr1wmpBAM_HZY3wMf1shS1mO_O91mo_Za-XRDqWLcqGKE8mgkRmfzWo/s400/P6300188.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Majestic Kom Vasojevicki 2461m</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">After
checking in, we began our hike. Komovi has three main peaks, and we were
tackling the first of the three, Kom Vasojevićki (2461m) today. Setting off
across the grassy pastures and summer dwellings of the katun, we soon picked up
signs for the summit and joined a rising traverse across scree slopes on the
western flank of the mountain.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijMlL-1JwtqQAHDhCBNZTVJoE5RQmMbgBTOKRH59f4Jy6nhUm8Q3f315Bwnkdo6y1Y7aPY7zugE2lIljJxjlsBS4RVk_6O7LdIBdD9D055DqktrxURHTlc5k_f4cvHdeh36qz4r980uWA/s1600/P6300190.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijMlL-1JwtqQAHDhCBNZTVJoE5RQmMbgBTOKRH59f4Jy6nhUm8Q3f315Bwnkdo6y1Y7aPY7zugE2lIljJxjlsBS4RVk_6O7LdIBdD9D055DqktrxURHTlc5k_f4cvHdeh36qz4r980uWA/s400/P6300190.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crossing the scree slope on Kom Vasojevicki, with <br />
Kom Kucki and Kom Ljevorijecki beyond</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNf5oxFvfPS96fPoN0UOH_qruC3-jIxTnKcBSXt2OiBIo96x-izLlsDbfU9881DZaxNP-HnrZHQazEcHO763e_tj-1OzdG0f5c0VMZsz74qV14ZWdgdSQJVIyvyU3u7pM53GCfFSxh7DE/s1600/IMG_20170630_122915.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="960" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNf5oxFvfPS96fPoN0UOH_qruC3-jIxTnKcBSXt2OiBIo96x-izLlsDbfU9881DZaxNP-HnrZHQazEcHO763e_tj-1OzdG0f5c0VMZsz74qV14ZWdgdSQJVIyvyU3u7pM53GCfFSxh7DE/s400/IMG_20170630_122915.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pausing for breath on the steeper<br />
mid-section of the climb</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Presently,
the path steepened in gradient to zig zag up to a grassy saddle a short way
below the summit. From here, the top looks difficult to attain, but cunningly
the path approaches the summit via the safer grassy slopes behind, and with a
little scrambling and appropriate care, it is not as impossible as it at first
seems.</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEVIyKKCMd6sO1SIuttkt4IRjr1AzLWiirwjPn4DEu_hyphenhyphen3934qe63GuUBQXyRS3AklSJWfJu6vQo4BZR6t64Ul3EgY4etWsehp7_IIHKjwotQn4g3xmkXohWXylb2zBGdjHw32QHe8nxI/s1600/P6300195.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEVIyKKCMd6sO1SIuttkt4IRjr1AzLWiirwjPn4DEu_hyphenhyphen3934qe63GuUBQXyRS3AklSJWfJu6vQo4BZR6t64Ul3EgY4etWsehp7_IIHKjwotQn4g3xmkXohWXylb2zBGdjHw32QHe8nxI/s400/P6300195.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Preparing for the tricky-looking approach to the summit</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Arriving
at the top, we signed the visitor book and made first use of the brand-new
stamp that Dimitrije had been asked to bring. Limbs were rested and photos were
taken, and we enjoyed the amazing 360° views – to Bjelasica, Sinjajevina, the
Prokletije, into Albania and Kosovo, and even to Hajla Peak that the three of
us had summited together some four years ago.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZu2-TmTrknEOfJOlKSx8HZ3MbLNZixJGqoteejKKP69bbjwWMdcElZX7pyp9pIETc8iN_iZ_i0n1WiRG3X9hY511SpWprNpX4ck1VEQehIePSBlBvp9o8tBncQPPTdxZPv2nkhmVqKLA/s1600/P6300202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZu2-TmTrknEOfJOlKSx8HZ3MbLNZixJGqoteejKKP69bbjwWMdcElZX7pyp9pIETc8iN_iZ_i0n1WiRG3X9hY511SpWprNpX4ck1VEQehIePSBlBvp9o8tBncQPPTdxZPv2nkhmVqKLA/s400/P6300202.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amazing views in all directions</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">However,
it was a glorious day, and we were not alone on the top. A group of Bulgarians
were also climbing the mountain today, and we got chatting to one who was
thrilled to hear we would be visiting his country later this year.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2BhcvcMfiwbFSsZC6lgF5OMiEH1csC4xJnnduaYMqjsJEP7xLg_XVWakRFq46xnNuSyAUJtzV7LgdoexGqK-E1mMvvzsTTIooag8vXokJ0fsnfXnLymq85nhh_e_HsugXgj8pdHVW6K8/s1600/P6300200.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2BhcvcMfiwbFSsZC6lgF5OMiEH1csC4xJnnduaYMqjsJEP7xLg_XVWakRFq46xnNuSyAUJtzV7LgdoexGqK-E1mMvvzsTTIooag8vXokJ0fsnfXnLymq85nhh_e_HsugXgj8pdHVW6K8/s400/P6300200.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Best friends, Bulgarians and backpacks: topping <br />
out on the summit of Kom Vasojevicki</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">We
took lunch on a sheltered bluff just down from the summit, then made our descent
by the same route. Like many mountain paths, loose rock and steep ground means
it takes almost as long to descend as it does to ascend in the first place.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDUeJX8DD5yMcoeW3eboZqU1ywLMcnO1a0HbYoFlwLUVXUT2_2aEPdZcxWa8SSxmdizkFc-MR68YJ-izDRfJVfAWdiIdehd7yJDTWtz_9qHHlUoZbSA5c_1orv0RA-_u5W4veizIsn7FU/s1600/IMG_20170630_143221.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="960" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDUeJX8DD5yMcoeW3eboZqU1ywLMcnO1a0HbYoFlwLUVXUT2_2aEPdZcxWa8SSxmdizkFc-MR68YJ-izDRfJVfAWdiIdehd7yJDTWtz_9qHHlUoZbSA5c_1orv0RA-_u5W4veizIsn7FU/s400/IMG_20170630_143221.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's a hard life ..... apparently</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">On
the way down, we met a man who was worried about his hiking partner who hadn’t
reached the summit. We kept our eyes and ears open as we went, but didn’t see
anyone in trouble (he was later found safe and reasonably well after a slight
fall, but it acts as a reminder to observe good practice and stay safe in the
mountains).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxlDhVoFo1VxzAHEZ1VjaJLuE9YzgX-peU7hiydFI1UEqXaAZd50vMV3jw0HQ3UoulsihBNL2lNBwWGlrtwvndJN5Pa83-OX7vRXre9Eb1EjJeKhWXZQEY-7LpROD9efYPOKZWYdVNTAs/s1600/P6300206.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxlDhVoFo1VxzAHEZ1VjaJLuE9YzgX-peU7hiydFI1UEqXaAZd50vMV3jw0HQ3UoulsihBNL2lNBwWGlrtwvndJN5Pa83-OX7vRXre9Eb1EjJeKhWXZQEY-7LpROD9efYPOKZWYdVNTAs/s400/P6300206.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful hardship: Hospitable companionship</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Crossing
the pastures back to the Eco Katun, we were invited in to one of the cabins for
something to eat and drink. These dwellings are only inhabited during the three-or-so months of the summer, when small-holders bring their livestock up to
the high pastures for grazing and to make cheese and jam and dry herbs for the
winter.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">For the rest of the year, our host was a teacher, and although it is beautiful here, it can at times be a lonely place. Hospitality is a tradition in these parts, and invites are regularly made to passers-by in exchange for company. We were happy to chat for a while, drinking juice and eating delicious bread and fresh cheese made that morning.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEDxbx2S-zmQgw24-Anhmyq26g2ulISED3j5MGpoh3P0gQcNRa7JpC0UkiE94bBB1AH47pCEEoPCi8GAUzW8BQ-TUAcqmTpEiClmeQogQ-2Q49mlPaGnxX4sc_Vfhf8nLeKME9FI739AA/s1600/P6300204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEDxbx2S-zmQgw24-Anhmyq26g2ulISED3j5MGpoh3P0gQcNRa7JpC0UkiE94bBB1AH47pCEEoPCi8GAUzW8BQ-TUAcqmTpEiClmeQogQ-2Q49mlPaGnxX4sc_Vfhf8nLeKME9FI739AA/s400/P6300204.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What a feast! Homemade corn bread, black bread and cheese</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Back
at the Eco Katun </span><span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Štavna, we settled in for the
evening. Dimitrije had to pop home to celebrate his son’s first birthday, but
we were extremely well looked after by hosts Branko and Nemanja. We had dinner
on the terrace – delicious stuffed peppers, corn bread with cheese and cream,
salad and a couple of beers to wash it all down.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">After a brief stroll along the road to let dinner settle and
reflect on one of the best mountain days we have had, we turned in for the
night, our only sadness being that one night here may not be enough.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">For anyone interested in the Eco Katun Štavna, you can find
further details </span><a href="http://www.ekokatunstavna.com/index-eng.html"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">HERE</span></a></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><a href="http://amblesandrambles.blogspot.co.uk/2017/07/back-in-black-mountain-part-1.html">Back
In Black Mountain: Part 1</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><a href="http://amblesandrambles.blogspot.co.uk/2017/07/back-in-black-mountain-part-3.html">Back
In Black Mountain: Part 3</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
</div>
Julian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8924560762707341331.post-56684354036554570042017-07-22T05:24:00.001-07:002017-07-23T10:34:38.723-07:00Back In Black Mountain: Part 1<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Day
1: Two Lakes and a Transfer<o:p></o:p></span></u></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">9.50k<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Although
only a short 5-day jaunt, this trip – our fourth visit to Montenegro – had been
some 3 years in the making. We had been hoping to visit our good friend
Dimitrije and do some hiking together for some while, but time, circumstance
and other commitments had meant it had taken a little longer than expected to
arrange.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">After
all this time, we were justifiably excited to be heading back to Montenegro –
it’s such a wonderful destination for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts! Thankfully,
our flights ran smoothly, and with customs cleared we met Dimitrije in the
arrivals foyer. It was so good to see him again after all this time.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiihkoHt4eyWIR1BpMTKN7XFkI0wWSenK7DcSOuFXmeGqjFX7kzQvxIhRrGeR9SZwf0zB9BG1zB66AAhpxNTlzHbCX6L3G4cMOUL5NMah1WV7Ed3TqehebL4fhxwkGDEAgj10o1pRL7uiE/s1600/P6280139.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiihkoHt4eyWIR1BpMTKN7XFkI0wWSenK7DcSOuFXmeGqjFX7kzQvxIhRrGeR9SZwf0zB9BG1zB66AAhpxNTlzHbCX6L3G4cMOUL5NMah1WV7Ed3TqehebL4fhxwkGDEAgj10o1pRL7uiE/s400/P6280139.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching Black Lake </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Our
first objective was to transfer to the small mountain resort of Žabljak, the
main base for exploring Durmitor National Park. Located in the northeast of the
country, Durmitor NP is probably the premier outdoor location in Montenegro,
containing the Tara Canyon, numerous glacial lakes and cirques, and almost 50
peaks topping out at over 2000m, so there are huge opportunities for hiking,
biking, canyoning, rafting and other outdoor pursuits.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-JD4jNe-voUmJpbJHPDqD0zLs3WcCMHUckfAfY-ukBM1EwUvRM4WfpCT3e3wnAKIvKPzTqwiHF_3y-SuW3g3ayw2gkVTEgQct0dCy-HsKhuPHJFs4yWwBTUaWtJKGsDLwF_YWHZXrLl4/s1600/P6280140.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-JD4jNe-voUmJpbJHPDqD0zLs3WcCMHUckfAfY-ukBM1EwUvRM4WfpCT3e3wnAKIvKPzTqwiHF_3y-SuW3g3ayw2gkVTEgQct0dCy-HsKhuPHJFs4yWwBTUaWtJKGsDLwF_YWHZXrLl4/s400/P6280140.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking across both lakes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Having
dropped by our lodgings (the Lalovic Apartments) to drop off our kit and taken
lunch at a nearby restaurant, we decided to walk round the twin pools of Black
Lake by way of a warm-up. Being both beautiful and close to Žabljak, Black Lake
is a popular destination for tourists and day-trippers. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">And it’s easy to see
why, with it’s clear waters set in an amphitheatre of wooded slopes beneath impressive
peaks, it makes for a picture-postcard setting. But walk a little way round the perimeter and the crowds disappear, leaving scope for quiet reflection.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0FrUapa1XmGF_X0sP6v9DV_zX9NZWIGVTqiTpxGuvf8fTKync_W3d2kpwZuei72C4shUu4yvicfT0DLH-IGpf8s2ecPwDQg0WpOmVC_jMLa7TTmzEXazzSOi1Ur7pDr5nN-1Qn1LLjO8/s1600/P6280143.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0FrUapa1XmGF_X0sP6v9DV_zX9NZWIGVTqiTpxGuvf8fTKync_W3d2kpwZuei72C4shUu4yvicfT0DLH-IGpf8s2ecPwDQg0WpOmVC_jMLa7TTmzEXazzSOi1Ur7pDr5nN-1Qn1LLjO8/s400/P6280143.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quietly exploring the lakeside</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">That
evening we ate, as at lunchtime, at the Kotoba Luna, a simple, inexpensive
mountain-type restaurant with large portions of traditional fare. The local
diet based around ample helpings of meat, potatoes, grilled vegetables and
salad may not be to everyone’s taste, but it suited us just fine. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNxsgbU7fGNabU8339Bv59fDodO5KDx0bzpLword73Evvs4ROL4ezsUbR6FxeAiV5cCLFfITXAj6hMQM9T726Y5iMo_zpYtmOmI4Kc3Ota_EcnwlzWpsI1XDRP191LjN-rbx5y7SmttH0/s1600/P6280144.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNxsgbU7fGNabU8339Bv59fDodO5KDx0bzpLword73Evvs4ROL4ezsUbR6FxeAiV5cCLFfITXAj6hMQM9T726Y5iMo_zpYtmOmI4Kc3Ota_EcnwlzWpsI1XDRP191LjN-rbx5y7SmttH0/s400/P6280144.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zabljak at sundown</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Day
2: Three Lakes and Half a Mountain<o:p></o:p></span></u></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">23.50k<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Having
taken an early breakfast in town and stocked up with sandwiches and snacks for
lunch, we were ready for the day’s objective – an ascent of 2522m Bobotov Kuk, which
is usually regarded as the highest peak in Montenegro (although there are some
slightly higher summits in the Prokletije sharing the border with Albania).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">We
met up with two of Dimitrije’s friends from their outdoor club, Slavko and
Veljko, and headed off towards our starting point at the 1907m pass on the
south edge of the massif. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgESbTLctJHYsrpQUNIOAdSUKlvWh5-TBdP7IKf0-OYTpeSs0JZ9WWYXMQaMcWX5c8y63jLPggMeBhU9A7pdeQy3RTVGb9h6Ll4aUI-5jWC1MAqvOqiNMsVBD-OdbQC6U5xWzsnmYOl7dE/s1600/P6290146.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgESbTLctJHYsrpQUNIOAdSUKlvWh5-TBdP7IKf0-OYTpeSs0JZ9WWYXMQaMcWX5c8y63jLPggMeBhU9A7pdeQy3RTVGb9h6Ll4aUI-5jWC1MAqvOqiNMsVBD-OdbQC6U5xWzsnmYOl7dE/s400/P6290146.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The road up to the pass where we started our hike</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">But
despite all our plans and preparations, one thing beyond our control was the
weather. Usually, ascents of Bobotov Kuk are accompanied by photographs of
far-reaching views from a summit bathed in sunshine, but today the sky was
having other ideas. A strong wind was gusting and low cloud scudded across the
mountain tops, and we all paused to don extra layers before setting off.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpGMTckQRNBnCUWDjjDsgI6Oy_XNg1IlrbfdE2Ax1TM2uRyFGpCxvSDTc4TQDTjxWdXcBvxAZgmCRbcBguopEG0L8CkW7qJpGjXbdGpa5M-JXCeCjHbkL5_H2-tn5eugUpRjULkZBPCbA/s1600/P6290148.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpGMTckQRNBnCUWDjjDsgI6Oy_XNg1IlrbfdE2Ax1TM2uRyFGpCxvSDTc4TQDTjxWdXcBvxAZgmCRbcBguopEG0L8CkW7qJpGjXbdGpa5M-JXCeCjHbkL5_H2-tn5eugUpRjULkZBPCbA/s400/P6290148.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the right track for Bobotov Kuk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">The
walk to the base of the peak follows a typically undulating mountain path, clear
enough on the ground and mostly straightforward but with one or two tricky
sections requiring a hands-on approach. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAznvs_uu0mCG04j8zR9w_liILarmfRM_LbrdAxwY5Qds1oySPrbUnAInNPGb06ROavZaXC1ZQts3S-EOazNFh6jjARNkvAT7MiO21V3U7vUAwhuw1LCCeV5mpPns80hM-Ch8aqCEDPeA/s1600/P6290151.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAznvs_uu0mCG04j8zR9w_liILarmfRM_LbrdAxwY5Qds1oySPrbUnAInNPGb06ROavZaXC1ZQts3S-EOazNFh6jjARNkvAT7MiO21V3U7vUAwhuw1LCCeV5mpPns80hM-Ch8aqCEDPeA/s400/P6290151.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Patches of old snow still lying at the end of June</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">What
was quite a surprise (although maybe not, given the weather conditions today)
was the sight of patches of old snow, still lying in places even though it is
almost July – a reminder, if one were needed, that winters in these parts are
tough and cold.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFYBZA7SObKXol-tuqZPcbJdz0we2cjD_0hPY9SKSDVRGFUIt3E0FbHexzHWeYYjTANcyc-ViGNM4T25EHVDIsHfp3kefM0AdNgIaKMt4hrTBGCOMhk0yArrUsCR14OVQYGoS8f53vuAc/s1600/P6290152.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFYBZA7SObKXol-tuqZPcbJdz0we2cjD_0hPY9SKSDVRGFUIt3E0FbHexzHWeYYjTANcyc-ViGNM4T25EHVDIsHfp3kefM0AdNgIaKMt4hrTBGCOMhk0yArrUsCR14OVQYGoS8f53vuAc/s400/P6290152.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiking in beneath the rock formation Zupci, which means "teeth"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">After
a little over an hour’s walking, we descended steeply towards a small lake,
ready for a short break. From here on the route would get steeper, with loose
rocks and protected sections to negotiate, so we took the chance to rest briefly
and gather our thoughts before tackling the next section.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7pJeKQg8g9DoZBmtz0MUl1P6VMCV6GaAXXAD5BQH5zY6uohtf01Im4AZt-Bp3-4Lm5ovex5gwsuKekezO4kol_gH6ZWGX04sttqx-XzRUsz_Z-Gu1yUQWQpD_zqMWQfsU3pIfQcFoVGs/s1600/P6290161.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7pJeKQg8g9DoZBmtz0MUl1P6VMCV6GaAXXAD5BQH5zY6uohtf01Im4AZt-Bp3-4Lm5ovex5gwsuKekezO4kol_gH6ZWGX04sttqx-XzRUsz_Z-Gu1yUQWQpD_zqMWQfsU3pIfQcFoVGs/s400/P6290161.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lake at the base of the peak </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">The
trouble was that since we had set off the skies had got darker, the low cloud much
lower and the winds even stronger. To reach the summit from here takes two
stages – firstly climbing to a saddle at around 2350m, then on to the 2522m
summit itself after a rocky scramble – and we were conscious that the saddle
was now only intermittently visible through the mist, and the peak itself completely
hidden.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">We
decided to carry on for a while, and review the situation as we went. Half way
to the saddle, we met a couple of other hikers who had got that far but turned
back because of the inclement conditions. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCQFBmIh3efae6XLVw-sMPFN48MVxAJzr_0k9Fel7ycuCUV-9rzvBiedfa5k4H3qdvrIHgzTSl-34zdLXfSJjubSmqX2wCter5yutThbI7kGflK0rXNvfHmkgce8KESCYLWpeiLw1Dbr8/s1600/P6290156.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCQFBmIh3efae6XLVw-sMPFN48MVxAJzr_0k9Fel7ycuCUV-9rzvBiedfa5k4H3qdvrIHgzTSl-34zdLXfSJjubSmqX2wCter5yutThbI7kGflK0rXNvfHmkgce8KESCYLWpeiLw1Dbr8/s400/P6290156.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Decision time: deciding to head back down</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">It seems that Bobotov Kuk was determined to hide it's charms from hikers today. Slavko and Veljko decided to carry on
towards the saddle (which they eventually reached, filming a short video of themselves
clinging to the mountainside and showing just how windy it was), but with the
clouds ripping across the sky like time-lapse photography, we three decided it
was just a bit too risky and turned back.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjevO4ATGvF5mLKZdxcc7blOtInhCMJws3PzCVo58Y2DLJJAzeeH_LkspUqA6n-x6o-CvRRsjCsNnyWMGnbNc7nMMEYTEb433rMVPHAm0Q3R1CWKXw5D8vWsT714YC-WRnIOl_rgCidRJU/s1600/P6290163.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjevO4ATGvF5mLKZdxcc7blOtInhCMJws3PzCVo58Y2DLJJAzeeH_LkspUqA6n-x6o-CvRRsjCsNnyWMGnbNc7nMMEYTEb433rMVPHAm0Q3R1CWKXw5D8vWsT714YC-WRnIOl_rgCidRJU/s400/P6290163.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A glimpse of what might be visible from the summit on a good day </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">After
a longer rest stop at the lake, we started to retrace our steps towards the
cars. Of course, just at that moment the sun came out! The temperature rose and
the mist evaporated a little, all of which made our retreat look over-cautious.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">But
the cloud was still whizzing past overhead and the wind buffeting and gusting
strongly enough to force us into a stagger and knock us off the path, so we
were happy we’d made the right choice especially as, moments later, the summit
was again immersed in thick cloud. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioc1WfWPt3NKT2Ji4AaJ2XC7oVw7PkQ5LvMRBqUrWkdN_WF3st99G2LXzqGX7-1xmiCWtDE8EE5WlGKEToF_XSAOIrgsrFoYMNHGDyn_XpnqL1FFZMGykpF3KgXlyEL9Yx1ynLyagbJuE/s1600/P6290160.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioc1WfWPt3NKT2Ji4AaJ2XC7oVw7PkQ5LvMRBqUrWkdN_WF3st99G2LXzqGX7-1xmiCWtDE8EE5WlGKEToF_XSAOIrgsrFoYMNHGDyn_XpnqL1FFZMGykpF3KgXlyEL9Yx1ynLyagbJuE/s400/P6290160.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Confirmation we had made the right decision</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">By
now, Slavko and Veljko had returned from the saddle. Having taken a short cut
near the bottom, they’d cut off a chunk of the route and we found them lounging
beside the path waiting for us.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Because
of our prompt start to the day it was still quite early, and people were
heading out to the mountain as we were heading back. On the way, we met a
couple of Scots and a group of Norwegians and stopped to discuss conditions. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlUGJc-Oi_uzQHv0PBVNpm_BdDxMlqbMEY1w1vuevmMlZbboYQghVaC6NNnVIh6W7hbrah6j-g6_rvi3ZntF_Hx1tAJrFizSOvalBJ8uX6PQZuF4_-f3hfF-ybTmF-zei2pUYPEL3464o/s1600/P6290168.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlUGJc-Oi_uzQHv0PBVNpm_BdDxMlqbMEY1w1vuevmMlZbboYQghVaC6NNnVIh6W7hbrah6j-g6_rvi3ZntF_Hx1tAJrFizSOvalBJ8uX6PQZuF4_-f3hfF-ybTmF-zei2pUYPEL3464o/s400/P6290168.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Descending one of the protected sections <br />
on our way back to the car</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Our
climb was over, but with plenty of the day left, we had a chance to do something
more. So, after a quick stop for drinks in Žabljak, we headed for Ivan Do, near
Black Lake, to do the 3-Lakes walk.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwBNmVNVmXphy8bC5DmMTuzFd5ZqBDCxrKxW3Pa0mW-1TlMWu7iHRkeve4uwdBjmeUlTmaECdHHS1GVTTOR_fsDB77h7u_nxb9sdijL10NT-YMtDeJmbxXT87SVRMfdfNniPHLq06as2Y/s1600/P6290171.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwBNmVNVmXphy8bC5DmMTuzFd5ZqBDCxrKxW3Pa0mW-1TlMWu7iHRkeve4uwdBjmeUlTmaECdHHS1GVTTOR_fsDB77h7u_nxb9sdijL10NT-YMtDeJmbxXT87SVRMfdfNniPHLq06as2Y/s400/P6290171.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snake Lake!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Our
first objective was Zminje Lake (which translates as Snake Lake, and doesn’t
refer to the shape) about a 40-minute hike away. We followed the track from
Ivan Do, soon cutting up into the woods on a pleasant path between the trees.
At this lower altitude, it was a warm, sunny afternoon, a long way from the
cool, windy, misty conditions of the morning.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoDqX7WQ30a5m04fGg34UZiQpyxAuHD0hHjlxlSy6X4lTHzUULD-NrZQAAU9BREAKoBBaJtMmdajweNhkb__QReP-Q4ocdDUaoJe0sHiVmUV4SBritzkJch1F4pHYi0QTJC6Z815StMXU/s1600/IMG_20170629_165654.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="960" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoDqX7WQ30a5m04fGg34UZiQpyxAuHD0hHjlxlSy6X4lTHzUULD-NrZQAAU9BREAKoBBaJtMmdajweNhkb__QReP-Q4ocdDUaoJe0sHiVmUV4SBritzkJch1F4pHYi0QTJC6Z815StMXU/s400/IMG_20170629_165654.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking with Natasha & Yasha</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">As
we ambled through the woods, we met up with Natasha and Yasha, a mother and son
from St Petersburg. Chatting as we went, we talked about everything from the
Russian education system to Premier League football to the fact that their
flight from Moscow to Podgorica was quicker than ours from Stansted. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">It’s
always interesting to learn about other cultures, even if only briefly. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkDAQxFPzlMo3LwzskSYurXXI1OPgCVk5HFYJTDKeL8T5fb2FJNizSQw2KxDzB4FskjxUgfpqyrv9o5H3JFjlmDk_K5uG1EDUn6GdtnaLX4ToIjo_RTRf91PlSuW-deCOyXn7sqxQ40_g/s1600/P6290173.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkDAQxFPzlMo3LwzskSYurXXI1OPgCVk5HFYJTDKeL8T5fb2FJNizSQw2KxDzB4FskjxUgfpqyrv9o5H3JFjlmDk_K5uG1EDUn6GdtnaLX4ToIjo_RTRf91PlSuW-deCOyXn7sqxQ40_g/s400/P6290173.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We are on the route of the Via Dinarica, the new Balkans mega-trail</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Part
way back we said farewell to Natasha and Yasha, and headed off uphill towards Jablan
Lake, about 90 minutes away.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">After
a 40-minute uphill section, the path levelled off, traversing the hillside
through grassy pasture and thin woodland before a slight drop down to a small
lake beneath tall cliffs. By now, it was around 7.00pm, so we had the lake
pretty much to ourselves as we had a quick snack and a drink and soaked up the beauty
and quiet.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0EmiCWsGAPHSzbTYSBHKc12RJvDqebrEjiF_nnaKIpU2aYelWOs_K1f3mbRgc4wkT_k7eA2dNTbwFmxFZUR8uwqngFlL9evaguEB2QMFstlYSwrtzkCIio8QRqX_uLj93NaDqieZBdnU/s1600/P6290177.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0EmiCWsGAPHSzbTYSBHKc12RJvDqebrEjiF_nnaKIpU2aYelWOs_K1f3mbRgc4wkT_k7eA2dNTbwFmxFZUR8uwqngFlL9evaguEB2QMFstlYSwrtzkCIio8QRqX_uLj93NaDqieZBdnU/s400/P6290177.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Low evening sunlight on the mountains</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Retracing
our steps to the path junction and on to Ivan Do took about an
hour-and-a-quarter, but the journey was eased by the wonderful views and
gorgeous quality of the low evening light.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcB__2mKxieees1gP-yAYy2LRyP-tZ554vOkqNvg6j8B-_avq49vvzDZA4gDYnp8eFWuWLzPyfdgGyTlhF1EuOHZ6Spi9dZw_MhwpE0OwxuLMVuZzwoz_z4_9E0n8SY5kHiFnhKZuEpDk/s1600/P6290179.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcB__2mKxieees1gP-yAYy2LRyP-tZ554vOkqNvg6j8B-_avq49vvzDZA4gDYnp8eFWuWLzPyfdgGyTlhF1EuOHZ6Spi9dZw_MhwpE0OwxuLMVuZzwoz_z4_9E0n8SY5kHiFnhKZuEpDk/s400/P6290179.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black Lake in the distance</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">It
had been a long day, but an excellent one. Sure, we were slightly disappointed
not to have summited Bobotov Kuk (we will have to come back again to do that!)
but the opportunity to explore other areas of the park meant we saw more of
Durmitor than we had expected, which was a real bonus.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkqdNQDtVhVqCkamaL6vlgbodjcb55h_4nyN-YBBoKJ11HVBax93Gvn6irw64IoqWoezs6eSOIFXRuRdIvKGEbU_SbaFvN_Uvrn4YJ-XRYR22SgdxXpbSAz7ujboAHDWCx7G1gcyumVFE/s1600/P6290181.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkqdNQDtVhVqCkamaL6vlgbodjcb55h_4nyN-YBBoKJ11HVBax93Gvn6irw64IoqWoezs6eSOIFXRuRdIvKGEbU_SbaFvN_Uvrn4YJ-XRYR22SgdxXpbSAz7ujboAHDWCx7G1gcyumVFE/s400/P6290181.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nearing the end of the hike in fading light</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">We
had dinner at the Kotoba Luna again, with kebabs and chicken, grilled veg,
salad and beers on the menu – just the job after a full day on foot. It was
almost 10.00pm when we arrived at our digs after a long but fantastic and
diverse day, and even the power cut just before bedtime couldn’t take the shine
off an excellent day.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><a href="http://amblesandrambles.blogspot.co.uk/2017/07/back-in-black-mountain-part-2.html">Back
In Black Mountain: Part 2</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><a href="http://amblesandrambles.blogspot.co.uk/2017/07/back-in-black-mountain-part-3.html">Back
In Black Mountain: Part 3</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
</div>
Julian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8924560762707341331.post-71311298479885911752017-07-08T10:03:00.000-07:002017-07-08T10:03:19.732-07:00The Le Puy Route - Part 6<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<b><u>Long Days, Short Days & Rainy Days - Cahors to Moissac</u></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<u>Day 7: Cahors to La Clos
de Gamel</u><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
30.00k (18.67 miles) /
No Ascent or Descent stats<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
We were up and
breakfasted quite early, first setting off back through town to pick up lunch
stuff for the next couple of days. Having run low on picnic food, we took the
opportunity to stock up.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG43Z6QyNiJFaum96hADZD42t2y_IqimykHYSj_WyIoh8DdksVPe8x3GP-m0aHEr7wZlZmCvx6BbN_atkTexgo5qF_7Nn2vIo9v1HMk4IgVV7q4IZ3wOKHijAZuD0TxIlu1PrR1jKF9r4/s1600/P6010092.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG43Z6QyNiJFaum96hADZD42t2y_IqimykHYSj_WyIoh8DdksVPe8x3GP-m0aHEr7wZlZmCvx6BbN_atkTexgo5qF_7Nn2vIo9v1HMk4IgVV7q4IZ3wOKHijAZuD0TxIlu1PrR1jKF9r4/s400/P6010092.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Setting off</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Returning to the Louis
Philippe bridge, we made our way beside the loop of the river to the Pont
Valente, an elaborate fortified bridge that has carried pilgrims out of Cahors
for 700 years.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Wy3xEvHydc9e-GIoQk_NWWkVcrcll5AL-g6A2V40Il9bcyFbSKs_GwRAuNF-1yoq8QS6_J1PEg2kSlyt0AOxcKj8b55tafWPo6B_ffqBPP6H8a4-VC8ev8Fgta2rH3DostLdv5Mju4w/s1600/P6010094.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Wy3xEvHydc9e-GIoQk_NWWkVcrcll5AL-g6A2V40Il9bcyFbSKs_GwRAuNF-1yoq8QS6_J1PEg2kSlyt0AOxcKj8b55tafWPo6B_ffqBPP6H8a4-VC8ev8Fgta2rH3DostLdv5Mju4w/s400/P6010094.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pont Valente</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Since reaching Cahors,
there had been a noticeable change of atmosphere about the route, and one which
would remain with us for the next few days. Up until now, that feeling of being
“on Camino” wasn't necessarily always there, which may have been down to the
relative dearth of villages and towns through which the route has passed. The
GR65, whilst broadly following the pilgrimage route, was also designed to skirt
more civilisation than the more direct Spanish route.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCUlfzTTXgJ7keruPiyBT-i57kJ6zUNJqgupJyDNgOOas7EePWUlhmNrI9yRXg-F7328v_GO2cIchoWRAIPIT5suwQ2kEnpLNULYWiYr9FqnLRn7YZrbXBJxGDXqCB6vrTVZIYOoHvwWE/s1600/P6010100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCUlfzTTXgJ7keruPiyBT-i57kJ6zUNJqgupJyDNgOOas7EePWUlhmNrI9yRXg-F7328v_GO2cIchoWRAIPIT5suwQ2kEnpLNULYWiYr9FqnLRn7YZrbXBJxGDXqCB6vrTVZIYOoHvwWE/s400/P6010100.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crossing the bridge out of town</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
After crossing the
bridge (and passing the Three French Ladies – TFL) we hit the steep climb up to
the Croix de Magne on the ridge above town. The route then takes a lengthy
detour to pass under the busy N20 motorway, before following quiet lanes and paths
towards the hamlet of Les Mathiuex, where we stopped at the gite for cokes and
a rest. The TFL were there too.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTfCFlvxmNU1WVJYYrPWplOdG1D7Fi2BySKaxSvca_ZncyEkBcojwW7mXOVUbfT6ltKNoOiXeoOSDKFv4_vJGrptButakBeyGkYD8oRzfGJk-bHqgsUOHABeKahdfuG0Db4XJTks3xvoA/s1600/P6010104.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTfCFlvxmNU1WVJYYrPWplOdG1D7Fi2BySKaxSvca_ZncyEkBcojwW7mXOVUbfT6ltKNoOiXeoOSDKFv4_vJGrptButakBeyGkYD8oRzfGJk-bHqgsUOHABeKahdfuG0Db4XJTks3xvoA/s400/P6010104.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the Croix de Magne</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
We dropped down into
the valley, heard planes race by low in the sky and climbed towards
Labastide-Marnhac where we stopped for lunch at a handy picnic table. After the
rain of the past couple of days, it was nice to have good weather again.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj05jtyz1Lcnpja3dTs9A-N7zqwEDha9t4RwpHVmhDgCPNmub3bybkeBAAN-Mw99NjgfXs5ARdTnoLJNObl_Ee1D-PQZJTATJJuldCPS-o7jz78y7VbcWscbc7jDkBToDRVjC-9vV7kyAs/s1600/P6010107.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj05jtyz1Lcnpja3dTs9A-N7zqwEDha9t4RwpHVmhDgCPNmub3bybkeBAAN-Mw99NjgfXs5ARdTnoLJNObl_Ee1D-PQZJTATJJuldCPS-o7jz78y7VbcWscbc7jDkBToDRVjC-9vV7kyAs/s400/P6010107.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lunch stop, Labastide-Marnhac</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Exiting the village,
we again passed TFL and began a lengthy stretch of some 12k towards Lascabanes.
The walking here is through woods or open spaces and is much, I imagine, like
the South Downs. One section, we were brought to a stop as a cuckoo broke from
its normal two-note song to entertain with a rarely-heard three-note version.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Continuing with the
woods / heathland mix of countryside, we kept high on the ridge for a while
longer, before dropping into the valley towards Lascabanes. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
On reaching the
village, we began to look for our accommodation, only to find it was actually
another 3.5k away. So, we trundled on, through more nice shady woods and along
a level tarmacked lane, until we reached the Chapelle St-Jean-le-Froid, where
we called in for some cool.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
The last kilometre was
off route. This place had better be worth it, we thought. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_up5mAw93dxokxNXtr9USOpMpLXN2DOBTTKh1IywE7Imu4cs4khxdb6jUXh9WD3N2DT4RzmYMZ-Nkd8ybHjOcOj27KdtXrOEI_h8sHFiORT9kSCrx56R73Ut50T2I17zXzT2ZFkeYlBQ/s1600/20170601_193923_001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_up5mAw93dxokxNXtr9USOpMpLXN2DOBTTKh1IywE7Imu4cs4khxdb6jUXh9WD3N2DT4RzmYMZ-Nkd8ybHjOcOj27KdtXrOEI_h8sHFiORT9kSCrx56R73Ut50T2I17zXzT2ZFkeYlBQ/s400/20170601_193923_001.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Clos de Gamel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
And it was. La Clos de
Gamel is another farmstead, with the out-buildings turned into guest rooms, two
swimming pools, and a great setting. We were made very welcome by Chantelle and
David, offered complimentary cold drinks and use of the pool (taken – it was
glorious on such a hot day) and allowed to settle at our own pace.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_zlW3dFkjmP4mi3_G2Bpy_W8rZBQM3lbiutJ3rVeqpHMX0Xf3owSRPhJSVmW6_uacOwGlmJgToMS3e8bJs2OSuMb17hnVQhYIZy3wdgXsIYYEVftfkLfOyLiIgObfNVzIJ8Z-TYPY_QM/s1600/P6020108.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_zlW3dFkjmP4mi3_G2Bpy_W8rZBQM3lbiutJ3rVeqpHMX0Xf3owSRPhJSVmW6_uacOwGlmJgToMS3e8bJs2OSuMb17hnVQhYIZy3wdgXsIYYEVftfkLfOyLiIgObfNVzIJ8Z-TYPY_QM/s400/P6020108.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our room</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
We had a swim, rest,
and tidy up, then joined our hosts plus other guests, Patrice and Marie, and
neighbours Rene and Anita (originally from Holland) for a lovely meal with
wonderful relaxed company. We chatted in a mix of French and English, and all
got on so well. It was a fun evening, not least because Rene came in a restored
bright yellow Panhard car, which was a great talking point.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsUaOaccZceWrkxtZKFcP1XNInJ65-cJ47luKdDhlcvzXHGxfi8iHwhCWmT_Y3ngUqqNUtIaP0b8UgV_rtNrLt94hAnfl85XNag8oJkRTZKNWY3fDOSf6L6l8W_1g1YVkQ9QbCQOVzVqE/s1600/20170601_193700.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsUaOaccZceWrkxtZKFcP1XNInJ65-cJ47luKdDhlcvzXHGxfi8iHwhCWmT_Y3ngUqqNUtIaP0b8UgV_rtNrLt94hAnfl85XNag8oJkRTZKNWY3fDOSf6L6l8W_1g1YVkQ9QbCQOVzVqE/s400/20170601_193700.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This 1952 Panhard has been lovingly restored</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNrjYFA9uLF3e9LJdsAshL9e8J_YhF_GsBrFriMbC6KeWLnJyjR0VMgSbFpkjnrXawmTuqvY_WbCTm2GTPXLy94rNfldcJuaHN6CnB3rLEUMF2FQKrKJHrq4bM4d_OVUoxlW88L6Na1SE/s1600/20170601_193744.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNrjYFA9uLF3e9LJdsAshL9e8J_YhF_GsBrFriMbC6KeWLnJyjR0VMgSbFpkjnrXawmTuqvY_WbCTm2GTPXLy94rNfldcJuaHN6CnB3rLEUMF2FQKrKJHrq4bM4d_OVUoxlW88L6Na1SE/s400/20170601_193744.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Such a beautiful car</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
It seemed a shame to
call it a night, but more walking beckons for us and the others tomorrow, so
with some reluctance we headed for bed.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<u>Day 8: La Clos de
Gamel to Lauzerte</u><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
22.25k (13.80 miles) /
Ascent 520m / Descent 668m <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
After a lovely
breakfast outside, with coffee, juice, bread, jam, and yoghurt, it was time to
take our leave of La Clos de Gamel – a sad moment, as we had had such a lovely
time.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
It was already sunny
and quite warm as we got underway, taking a slight detour back to the GR65. The
walking was superb, some of the best of the week, chalk uplands with views far
and wide.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1KcprtyoeRNj-BbBCnu0Fpm_Eh2xablpZjkeO3FTcWVUOSA8cm12vvCtLA8-gts0t0hM2XZTfocyPi2KDJq0TBNnfbsrrKOjirWf2m5t75WbAdvlexseGgMQwtj_VdMahldOsdswvCFE/s1600/P6020114.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1KcprtyoeRNj-BbBCnu0Fpm_Eh2xablpZjkeO3FTcWVUOSA8cm12vvCtLA8-gts0t0hM2XZTfocyPi2KDJq0TBNnfbsrrKOjirWf2m5t75WbAdvlexseGgMQwtj_VdMahldOsdswvCFE/s400/P6020114.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the way to Montcuq</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Our first objective
was Montcuq, a hilltop town some 8k away and apparently the half way point of
the Route St Jacques. From now on, we would be closer to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port
than Le Puy.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
If you were thinking
of a small town in France, where folks come from round about to do not much in
a relaxed and unhurried manner, and where incomers would choose to sit in cafes
to acquaint themselves with the locals, this would be the place.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGvcTUs0wa9SBLJ5srL_7iNbTbml6KitAYf2WZ8DpEGqRPw1jX_WYYvRmnticQI0-YWSa_yFqb04-t2YKGukpvOEpnxVWHVJRinGWzYiwOMv9O-v6G9q_Ua5Eh9BZOEISlFj_tcKlzFz4/s1600/P6020118.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGvcTUs0wa9SBLJ5srL_7iNbTbml6KitAYf2WZ8DpEGqRPw1jX_WYYvRmnticQI0-YWSa_yFqb04-t2YKGukpvOEpnxVWHVJRinGWzYiwOMv9O-v6G9q_Ua5Eh9BZOEISlFj_tcKlzFz4/s400/P6020118.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Village centre, Montcuq</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
We had cold Cokes in a
market square café, bought a sandwich for lunch, and whiled away a delightful half
hour.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCu4XEp6r4g2Uy8AJ_3sBkx7Z8DVqdgA_htwgmj0cZ9NLFS7dRlLn9WEB30ryBCwyHcQD33wtZWePz_uLdlt80tzSJMcp-dIl7XA5nUjhBpxDVoz-rPxMjZFkXE6C4pnn_7D8JaqO5n-s/s1600/P6020119.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCu4XEp6r4g2Uy8AJ_3sBkx7Z8DVqdgA_htwgmj0cZ9NLFS7dRlLn9WEB30ryBCwyHcQD33wtZWePz_uLdlt80tzSJMcp-dIl7XA5nUjhBpxDVoz-rPxMjZFkXE6C4pnn_7D8JaqO5n-s/s400/P6020119.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Path climbing out of Montcuq</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Moving on, we covered
about another 3.5k to the church at Rouillac, where we had a quick look inside,
taking refuge from the heat of the day before joining the TFL at the picnic
table for lunch.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
The afternoon was
shaping up to be quite hot, and as we continued we were glad of occasional
shade to offset the heat, especially on a couple of the climbs. After the rise
up to Montlauzan, we opted to miss the village and rested instead in the shade
beneath a large tree. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Crossing the valley,
we entered the <i>département</i> of Tarn et
Garonne for the 7k stretch to Lauzerte. After an initial climb, the walking was
level in the main, but the final descent into Lauzerte was very steep and slippery,
and would have been treacherous in wet conditions.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7YIEIhC03vt_mbMdSqK5HlmW56yPSVIOL5gl1Je48j4pvrOUUHPG1Y30zjzX6iXBNuyxxFdRgbo-4uMoH75daR9JqBJefX9agMA4AhZfMRL3BBgGNxmGZQs8T0eDUhtPovIzzHz7S5Mk/s1600/P6020120.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7YIEIhC03vt_mbMdSqK5HlmW56yPSVIOL5gl1Je48j4pvrOUUHPG1Y30zjzX6iXBNuyxxFdRgbo-4uMoH75daR9JqBJefX9agMA4AhZfMRL3BBgGNxmGZQs8T0eDUhtPovIzzHz7S5Mk/s400/P6020120.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Topping up at the spring</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Arriving in Lauzerte,
we stopped for an ice cream, then followed a busy and dangerous main road for
half a mile to the hotel. And what a hotel. On the plus side, the host was nice
and there was a swimming pool which we took advantage of. On the other hand, it
was a bit run down and there were some odd characters hanging around. The meal
was basic but fine, but it was obvious that it was living on faded glory and the
whole place had seen better days.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDL4qMWxgaWB_6N7D8RE0mGTkOJVDgUPAE3C4ouoBqTq-mvtseB7WNEo2cr-9-41wpvthsEoYLRGY-nJ8Z5s2jVc1simK8UPaFueXgS6tAZthjJ9W_K7PN3Ju-O5kH7D8mtpxqDkiHh_8/s1600/20170602_211140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="576" data-original-width="1024" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDL4qMWxgaWB_6N7D8RE0mGTkOJVDgUPAE3C4ouoBqTq-mvtseB7WNEo2cr-9-41wpvthsEoYLRGY-nJ8Z5s2jVc1simK8UPaFueXgS6tAZthjJ9W_K7PN3Ju-O5kH7D8mtpxqDkiHh_8/s400/20170602_211140.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Local football match</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
We went to watch some
local football afterwards, and we were happy enough in the end – when you are
tired, you can cope with anything as long as you get food, water and a bed.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<u>Day 9: Lauzerte to the
Auberge de L’Aube-Nouvelle</u><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
13.75k (8.50 miles) /
No ascent or descent stats<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Thunder during the
night had given us a strong clue as to what to expect this morning – rain. Varying
from steady to quite heavy, we set off for the climb up to Lauzerte, had a
quick look round the little town, and bought cherries in the market.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi66j69057X_60Wl2yGVcD7YgfqbK-ElKhgjOuzckxiK1GWgvRAbCB6C_WfAqAZefeof8mUqPjhHsiOM6tlOfgkzq1y2g2xH6H60SAuMK6QyTG9MAX6OYdjdL4szSp1SQ-vIRjrVJ6kSb0/s1600/P6030121.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi66j69057X_60Wl2yGVcD7YgfqbK-ElKhgjOuzckxiK1GWgvRAbCB6C_WfAqAZefeof8mUqPjhHsiOM6tlOfgkzq1y2g2xH6H60SAuMK6QyTG9MAX6OYdjdL4szSp1SQ-vIRjrVJ6kSb0/s400/P6030121.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marketplace, Lauzerte</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Already a bit behind
the clock, we left the town and dropped into the valley. The way was pleasant
but unremarkable, and after a sweaty climb the far side the rain had abated and
we were able to shed hot waterproofs.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9HanL7ypGvI1D4ak2QLbppIPeVDfnFoIt8_6SBC8X5TdAl-jSg2_iEm2qPIGSeOGzI1Ss73YSiST_Dl065-lk5i7DVupwwKNTacezM2qLFazOX0hvmQFgp0A201b-MW5YUO4gg6ogfkQ/s1600/P6030126.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9HanL7ypGvI1D4ak2QLbppIPeVDfnFoIt8_6SBC8X5TdAl-jSg2_iEm2qPIGSeOGzI1Ss73YSiST_Dl065-lk5i7DVupwwKNTacezM2qLFazOX0hvmQFgp0A201b-MW5YUO4gg6ogfkQ/s400/P6030126.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Colourful hedgerow</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw_g1GTYGzLpyHGyPKoo3qnXlYMuCIrHgs88dXYAeTpH0Yu22SaHFBplXuVPLZyMnIogg8KWkgUnXM7YI73D47osLcJgev7F7WKkkGGfpiKD_AHNrBzF6yaTzXC8iqqNV1-om_h7zE8BQ/s1600/P6030128.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw_g1GTYGzLpyHGyPKoo3qnXlYMuCIrHgs88dXYAeTpH0Yu22SaHFBplXuVPLZyMnIogg8KWkgUnXM7YI73D47osLcJgev7F7WKkkGGfpiKD_AHNrBzF6yaTzXC8iqqNV1-om_h7zE8BQ/s400/P6030128.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eglise St-Sernin-du-Bosc</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
After a steep descent
on a stony track, we reached the restored Eglise St-Sernin-du-Bosc, and popped
in for a quick look round. Moving on, we followed a succession of muddy tracks,
quiet lanes and busier roads.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqfIEwlfT54UXvlAMxUkEgsQebfOyJhwvFcZc8-JRacMi3faFzx3SKRGXTfLEMY79FMlOlDRtvibQTg12pZmhmPZsaUA-6G4C1e63OcYqlhH3Z28HAO5jM2u-rXDgi0Dw7ddaBXfWVvQA/s1600/P6030129.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqfIEwlfT54UXvlAMxUkEgsQebfOyJhwvFcZc8-JRacMi3faFzx3SKRGXTfLEMY79FMlOlDRtvibQTg12pZmhmPZsaUA-6G4C1e63OcYqlhH3Z28HAO5jM2u-rXDgi0Dw7ddaBXfWVvQA/s400/P6030129.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crops in the fields</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
We had descended into
another valley just beyond Mirabel when the darkening skies finally released
their contents. Only just in time, we donned waterproofs again. As the rain
became heavier, the going became more difficult as already wet ground became
awash with water.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
As the intensity of
the rain reached a crescendo and water ran freely down the hillsides, the
tracks became increasingly muddy and slippery. I fell, and with one side
covered in mud we splodged along for a bit until we reached the Auberge de
L’Aube Nouvelle, which thankfully was open – but only just! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
We were invited in and
brought hot coffee, dripping water and mud all over the tiled floor as the
deluge outside continued, thankful for their kind hospitality even though not
properly open. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Another pilgrim was
ensconced in the lobby, though he was stopping there for the night. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Weighing up our
options, we came to the unpalatable decision to end our walk there and then,
and pick up again from this point next time. It was a bit defeatist, but anything
other than walking the roads would have been impossible – or at least very
slippery and muddy.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
It was a shame, but on
the plus side it did give us a bit more time to look round Moissac. We called a
cab and were whisked into town in minutes, while the rain fell.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQIVRftcqUE9VmsPAQRoAAUqB6rFTEjY8luCvWtDYppKKwkAg46lXUna1G-uOGtvlihJDfMk4pkX68mAOXCrEKjVS3_UItR_RbvlT1amC6LE32tIJspIEbpdpGsFhiZli1ckjLmlNE-Os/s1600/P6040132.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQIVRftcqUE9VmsPAQRoAAUqB6rFTEjY8luCvWtDYppKKwkAg46lXUna1G-uOGtvlihJDfMk4pkX68mAOXCrEKjVS3_UItR_RbvlT1amC6LE32tIJspIEbpdpGsFhiZli1ckjLmlNE-Os/s400/P6040132.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Streets of Moissac</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Safely installed in
our hotel, we rested up and dried out for a bit. By late afternoon, the rain
had stopped, so we went for a look round Moissac and something to eat. As if to
endorse our earlier decision, the heavens opened again as we had our meal, and as
the water tumbled from the awnings all around, we were glad to have opted for a
sheltered spot.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<u>Sunday</u><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
With almost a full day
at our disposal, we had chance for a good look round town. Heading for the
market and delis to pick up food for lunch, we first walked along the side of
the canal before climbing up to a viewpoint where we sat and read our books for
a while. Pottering round some of the nearby lanes, we began plotting our next
visit.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-VDnHv1fG2fGKsWmilnI8cWanD1wMhuSEZ82qNq6e4K0jTw5J4xv6BcGibZ0Wa76TcmsUINSyGYLacmOfwvTBYsVWg_3yMtLgSjVeRmVwgF1Rs_jjurld_f8YzQ156Zp-_DeT54BnqJE/s1600/P6040134.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-VDnHv1fG2fGKsWmilnI8cWanD1wMhuSEZ82qNq6e4K0jTw5J4xv6BcGibZ0Wa76TcmsUINSyGYLacmOfwvTBYsVWg_3yMtLgSjVeRmVwgF1Rs_jjurld_f8YzQ156Zp-_DeT54BnqJE/s400/P6040134.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking by the canal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm_zdhoN2y7-iRc2vMwsue3KChjeEzQOT325lyd84mDsdCqEfv6ZXE-XSFm2oRuiAy8n4tGxECCHVxcTPITvdtH8a-MXG7WJxlGS0HPJ35-hOKGWPG3jwor3UJWzE_BRKKhKuIZfP4e1g/s1600/P6040138.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm_zdhoN2y7-iRc2vMwsue3KChjeEzQOT325lyd84mDsdCqEfv6ZXE-XSFm2oRuiAy8n4tGxECCHVxcTPITvdtH8a-MXG7WJxlGS0HPJ35-hOKGWPG3jwor3UJWzE_BRKKhKuIZfP4e1g/s400/P6040138.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking over Moissac from the viewpoint</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Back in town, we had
final drinks and eats in the main square. A brass band started playing –
hilariously, outside the Abbey and on the pilgrimage path of the Route St
Jacques, they played a version of Highway to Hell. AC/DC never sounded quite
this way before, nor quite as ironic!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Then back to hotel
ready for pick up and home. We know we will most likely be back again, although we are not sure quite when as yet. This Camino business gets under your skin, and we have plans afoot to do some more. St Jean-Pied-de-Port awaits, then other routes across Europe - more than enough to keep us busy for the foreseeable future!<o:p></o:p></div>
Julian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8924560762707341331.post-30355323838689378442017-07-08T09:17:00.000-07:002017-07-08T09:17:44.755-07:00The Le Puy Route - Part 5<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<b><u>Foie Gras
& Friendships Forged - Cajarc to Cahors</u></b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<u>Day 4: Cajarc to
Limogne-en-Quercy</u><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
21.12k (13.18 miles) /
Ascent = 606m / Descent = 437m<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
We had a somewhat
shorter day in store for today, but one which turned out to be very rural with
almost no villages except for Gaillac encountered along the way.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIfZhZMEXXX01qwiplgTJT_9jTF0N1UbcdQ4ZYV0HdbziA32aMT9fzVNZOHrhZGJ5MBMHrsdiGpV_DLNbYlGVFQ_921ms7LN-rFSXqTPafFL4cEIo3zVftDnHq4pOUz4dCSWhC0sBMuOY/s1600/P5290049.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIfZhZMEXXX01qwiplgTJT_9jTF0N1UbcdQ4ZYV0HdbziA32aMT9fzVNZOHrhZGJ5MBMHrsdiGpV_DLNbYlGVFQ_921ms7LN-rFSXqTPafFL4cEIo3zVftDnHq4pOUz4dCSWhC0sBMuOY/s400/P5290049.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Narrow streets of old town Cajarc</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
After the physical
demands of the previous two days, we set off a bit later than normal at about 9.00am.
As it's a bank holiday and a Monday, two reasons why shops in France don't open,
we were wondering about getting lunch stuff – would there be anywhere in Cajarc
to buy food?</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Fortunately, we found
a boulangerie that was open and bought ham and cheese baguettes and two quiches
– enough lunch for two days with our exercise- and heat-suppressed appetites.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBBHU62YVxtYhtEDjw9BsfEt2YmaOWHUQmAkbXpScJBEjL4f6SDQS3MJIU3CT-0qLYBoaGmxYY1_kChMYAnTNxC8ECh8mAMyYC-VPaQ43BRtFA3d2f0DjuHcP0-0x5PNHWCfc_io_WCNk/s1600/P5290052.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBBHU62YVxtYhtEDjw9BsfEt2YmaOWHUQmAkbXpScJBEjL4f6SDQS3MJIU3CT-0qLYBoaGmxYY1_kChMYAnTNxC8ECh8mAMyYC-VPaQ43BRtFA3d2f0DjuHcP0-0x5PNHWCfc_io_WCNk/s400/P5290052.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back towards cajarc</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
It was very quiet out
walking. We saw dolmen man (a chap we had first met at the dolmen yesterday) a
couple of times early on, who sped ahead but twice went the wrong way and
eventually disappeared altogether, but aside from there were few walkers about.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBuJJKslMFH0Xv8dD8t_MNFdtsS7hmjzXQ9vwfWEK5_sRgXQF8q5aq0rFKBMpTB5El4isOU5CTvoq-dmYsm889_iUqz59i4o0lZlMnrTvJQSpIn-dy5QZ_3sEffx_sq6xaNs0qqc0o-wc/s1600/P5290054.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBuJJKslMFH0Xv8dD8t_MNFdtsS7hmjzXQ9vwfWEK5_sRgXQF8q5aq0rFKBMpTB5El4isOU5CTvoq-dmYsm889_iUqz59i4o0lZlMnrTvJQSpIn-dy5QZ_3sEffx_sq6xaNs0qqc0o-wc/s400/P5290054.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nearing Gaillac</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
The next village,
Gaillac, was equally quiet. We popped into the church which, besides being
cool, held a statue of St Jean Gabriel with an unusual Chinese styling. It
turns out he was a C19th French missionary who was brutally martyred in China
for failing to renounce his faith, and canonised as recently as 1996.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkF0JSdt4tpEtJ97juOP8sTDAlVjqzcd6TxfWT54AWqVSPUt2na_6PF4K7YVkrQ3m_UBcwzhIrRrm3tM_ck9HEuTQyZYUJk-tRX8Y6efROviRUTwXqZF7_wtZnPyRzk-rx5UkPnhGPUqk/s1600/P5290055.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkF0JSdt4tpEtJ97juOP8sTDAlVjqzcd6TxfWT54AWqVSPUt2na_6PF4K7YVkrQ3m_UBcwzhIrRrm3tM_ck9HEuTQyZYUJk-tRX8Y6efROviRUTwXqZF7_wtZnPyRzk-rx5UkPnhGPUqk/s400/P5290055.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Statue of St Jean Gabriel, Gaillac </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Beyond Gaillac, we
followed a nice sun-dappled path rising through the trees. This landscape of
tree-covered limestone plateaux cut into gorges by the major rivers is known as
the Causses, and although we were grateful for the shade the dense woodland
offered up reduced views.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
After a lengthy spell
of road walking, we picked up a path again and soon came upon an unusual sight.
Surrounded by a confetti of colourful scallop shells, we found a sort of
impromptu road-side café and stopped for drinks and a rest. There was no
mention of this stop in our guidebook, nor any advertising <i>en route</i> – at least as far as we saw. But this unexpected stop was
very welcome, especially given the lack of other food and drink stops. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqLpsJePvd_yEE_sdY_-O72vFTF7CwBEl2a7tVTb0w_5sIC8zJmruIM1dLjQfN_No0L9JEL6Do6BSEZih3Kd1tcqV7XEMzHEb-Ej0dl0Fpf8fvIvCR76za52zsM1qBg_WL7Hjxt42Pyqg/s1600/P5290058.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqLpsJePvd_yEE_sdY_-O72vFTF7CwBEl2a7tVTb0w_5sIC8zJmruIM1dLjQfN_No0L9JEL6Do6BSEZih3Kd1tcqV7XEMzHEb-Ej0dl0Fpf8fvIvCR76za52zsM1qBg_WL7Hjxt42Pyqg/s400/P5290058.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Colourful drinks stop, near Mas del Pech</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Moving on, we followed
more stony tracks and walled lanes through a couple of tiny hamlets barely big
enough to warrant a name, and with around 5k still to go we took a break for
lunch.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLwDbKoMd1z0b9n91c3ASe0IOGT-jccUZJqO9ncxtD-25P9cv0ZXNPTQc6EoCm_40D5Cms5zq_jYulTOlxRpGNfI7QIxqF3A5dqWfqNJMFY4kmjbJ6oUEawp-Iq2IEXZve2AOLKE-0aQM/s1600/P5290059.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLwDbKoMd1z0b9n91c3ASe0IOGT-jccUZJqO9ncxtD-25P9cv0ZXNPTQc6EoCm_40D5Cms5zq_jYulTOlxRpGNfI7QIxqF3A5dqWfqNJMFY4kmjbJ6oUEawp-Iq2IEXZve2AOLKE-0aQM/s400/P5290059.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Poppy field near Mas de Dalat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Somewhere near Mas de
Dalat, we met Karen from the US via Paris, one of the first English-speaking
walkers we had met. With a chance to do so, we talked a lot, all the way to
Limogne-en-Quercy, and kept doing so over cold beers. It’s funny: we see hardly
anyone all day, then, come late afternoon, walkers inexorably migrate towards a
bar and a group coalesces. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
We found our rooms in
a nice chambre d’hote nearby, and after a tidy-up pottered back round to the
bar for dinner. Our starter was a tiny bowl of asparagus soup, followed by a
large plate of salad, charcuterie, pate and the like, which was great. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Then,
expecting dessert, we were surprised to find an enormous plate of whole turkey
leg in a chorizo sauce set in front of us. It was no good – we couldn’t eat it
all! So, ready for lunch tomorrow, a whole turkey leg plus four slices of bread
were carefully secreted away, to be smuggled out later after our ice cream
desert.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<u>Day 5: Limogne en
Quercy to Mas de Ceres</u><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
21.00k (13.10 miles) /
Ascent = 331m / Descent = 326m<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Breakfast at the <i>chambre d’hote</i> was a communal affair,
with us plus four other French walkers enjoying coffee, jam, bread and fruit,
and Dolmen man outside preparing for the day ahead.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
We set off about 8.20am.
Skies were overcast for practically the first time all week, and we left town
with the threat of rain in the air. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuEVqVPmPBf6jnH2Iswf4YHaDFssqmlW_1D82NJzM_8oNKD5xyVTp2xXkfby1JriqvxW8DexDXyNsPJujSlMr12QIvE7k6ZFx5rPDoXMi0BxACok5Xy9a7HrWqqpBAbHxRhnIefOJIMCM/s1600/P5300063.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuEVqVPmPBf6jnH2Iswf4YHaDFssqmlW_1D82NJzM_8oNKD5xyVTp2xXkfby1JriqvxW8DexDXyNsPJujSlMr12QIvE7k6ZFx5rPDoXMi0BxACok5Xy9a7HrWqqpBAbHxRhnIefOJIMCM/s400/P5300063.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walled track near Limogny-en-Quercy</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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We joined a wide
walled track beneath trees, with a gentle descent that made for easy walking.
After about 15 minutes, we took a short detour to see another dolmen – this one
much smaller and more intimate than the previous one.</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1TdP0jifPPgiqgkX6HOKv9_MaGrON2QGkqU7aAJCFvnDLIGmJ4vIZRjNQlRqx5Ac9H_EKPfWnLQwyPlw7VflfVA2ueBLSG6eCJVLN-ZmEYwr3XDobWW1qLp-rduuWJIPhL8EssbaCDAw/s1600/P5300064.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1TdP0jifPPgiqgkX6HOKv9_MaGrON2QGkqU7aAJCFvnDLIGmJ4vIZRjNQlRqx5Ac9H_EKPfWnLQwyPlw7VflfVA2ueBLSG6eCJVLN-ZmEYwr3XDobWW1qLp-rduuWJIPhL8EssbaCDAw/s400/P5300064.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Small Dolmen</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
The going was
straightforward and route finding simple, and we made good progress. The skies continued
to darken, and thunder rumbled away somewhere to our right. Just before the
rain hit we caught up with Karen, and walked for the next hour or so with her,
the conversation a distraction from the increasingly heavy rain.</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnF57iDJvrcKiZ4rdbPvbanFUX-t-Y-uei9_ktRDvHnRLZC2K38uuSwI4B9ALMq8p8HaHod1P8XOYMzdLHfRGpZZU2NIvVXzgLiPI0TKtoEBMffCKYFYiZgNE_L6akwH9fJSO7FJdPUMY/s1600/20170530_114614.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="576" data-original-width="1024" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnF57iDJvrcKiZ4rdbPvbanFUX-t-Y-uei9_ktRDvHnRLZC2K38uuSwI4B9ALMq8p8HaHod1P8XOYMzdLHfRGpZZU2NIvVXzgLiPI0TKtoEBMffCKYFYiZgNE_L6akwH9fJSO7FJdPUMY/s400/20170530_114614.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Signpost, Bach</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
We were reasonably
soaked by the time we reached Bach, but the rain had stopped and we were
beginning to dry off as we decided to stop for drinks. A rest was required: we
had completed almost 12k this morning without a stop or any food, so we enjoyed
the break.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Our next overnight stop
was some way off route – around 4K or so, in fact – so shortly after Bach we
bade farewell to Karen and struck off on our own. For the first time this week,
we were following the orange blazes instead of the usual red-and-white-striped
waymarkers. Passing through Veylats, we stopped for lunch at a handy picnic
bench, the mainstay of which was turkey sandwiches purloined from dinner last
night.</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicwRviVIVP6QIbCl_QlBtXlR4c5H7K8sa6VWRKzIXgAY0VyvS-LMEN-JohZnYwsPMIKGHo1KGwZuz9mobQBOowlVMnZurrkqaMPlkcmmyB004oDu9fYBfJPN7bBOj9q2ihMZNGWGvQMtc/s1600/P5300077.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicwRviVIVP6QIbCl_QlBtXlR4c5H7K8sa6VWRKzIXgAY0VyvS-LMEN-JohZnYwsPMIKGHo1KGwZuz9mobQBOowlVMnZurrkqaMPlkcmmyB004oDu9fYBfJPN7bBOj9q2ihMZNGWGvQMtc/s400/P5300077.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mas de Ceres</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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From Veylats, it was a
couple more kilometres to Mas de Ceres. It's a beautiful old
farmstead, right in the middle of nowhere. We got a nice welcome, and were asked
in for a cold drink and a brief chat, after which we popped to our room to rest
and clean up.</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc3Jp4GJeyuaJfUfX8K6QpQq1q5CVBvw9Idhi1xrUQwPc8xSpo2nEY4lokXBiipPO15-q0kmRy_wV3UPT2ZcbfQVFP40XX0btkNKCppN17FwFvm5jSt9hQGWcm6Z2ty_yqleqDrQldfVE/s1600/20170530_190025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="576" data-original-width="1024" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc3Jp4GJeyuaJfUfX8K6QpQq1q5CVBvw9Idhi1xrUQwPc8xSpo2nEY4lokXBiipPO15-q0kmRy_wV3UPT2ZcbfQVFP40XX0btkNKCppN17FwFvm5jSt9hQGWcm6Z2ty_yqleqDrQldfVE/s400/20170530_190025.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lentil and terrine starter - delicious!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Dinner featured a
starter of lentils and a delicious terrine, with a vegetable and herb omelette for
main course, bread and cheese and ice cream to follow and a cup of tea to
finish. Last night’s meal was good but a bit too big – according to our host,
that restaurant is renowned for its ample portions. This meal was simple, tasty
and manageable – and for us that meant it was perfect!</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<u>Day 6: Mas de Ceres to
Cahors</u><o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
26.25k (16.25 miles) /
Ascent = 537m / Descent = 624m <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Breakfast was simple
but delicious – homemade yoghurt, bread and jam, juice and coffee. These rural
stops may be a bit off the beaten track, but have proved to be a highlight of
the trip.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggT0Y08UBrCVBJTaq7rcrDPpeo56iKapfDYHIrECJvk_DNW7PtyUUqEjxAuZYgf2BTl_NXhzTAiuqhDuJTN93RNnoyBseUDAhtG6zte5D_ai8g1UkkaLEarbbV2gLsGaMpE7pxgLy9M9s/s1600/P5310081.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggT0Y08UBrCVBJTaq7rcrDPpeo56iKapfDYHIrECJvk_DNW7PtyUUqEjxAuZYgf2BTl_NXhzTAiuqhDuJTN93RNnoyBseUDAhtG6zte5D_ai8g1UkkaLEarbbV2gLsGaMpE7pxgLy9M9s/s400/P5310081.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving Mas de Ceres</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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As we set off, rain
began again – steady at first, but increasing in persistence until it became
quite heavy. Our first challenge was to find our way back to the GR65, which we
did without too much trouble, and after about an hour we were passing through
Mas de Ver – the first named place on this section of the route.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Once again, we are in
sparsely populated countryside, with almost nowhere <i>en route</i> to buy food or drink all day. Because we were running
slightly behind those who overnighted elsewhere, we saw no familiar faces all
morning – in fact, we saw few people at all until Cahors. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6WAF3KhkrmzuHZ9MuiMN_T4AFB-C8T5v7UMfnTZBczuAUBQ8_qNmo0sXkTMrLbJcTkH5fhAcqpXja318kKm_mN_K15IuPQb4o-pZPead7ftBrPQ3F3DBiilsas46kE60enDKi7YJHnjM/s1600/P5310085.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6WAF3KhkrmzuHZ9MuiMN_T4AFB-C8T5v7UMfnTZBczuAUBQ8_qNmo0sXkTMrLbJcTkH5fhAcqpXja318kKm_mN_K15IuPQb4o-pZPead7ftBrPQ3F3DBiilsas46kE60enDKi7YJHnjM/s400/P5310085.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A brief sunny spell</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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Rain meant we trundled
on without a break, and it was close to midday, over three hours after setting
off, that we stopped for just a few minutes for pizza and apricots, sitting beside
a busy motorway junction.</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx8J1UsVyk1XvmHPSxBv4vYShAdrKVZtp8SuLCkrDSjpIDzKKbke_qFjPvQk_afhwtTJ7oM7WIXsbz77oCkQW8iJ8XyTdnYiLtFYrWzn04w-YhRT4tp6xASEI4g1kjBNDatN7qTDr64iY/s1600/P5310087.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx8J1UsVyk1XvmHPSxBv4vYShAdrKVZtp8SuLCkrDSjpIDzKKbke_qFjPvQk_afhwtTJ7oM7WIXsbz77oCkQW8iJ8XyTdnYiLtFYrWzn04w-YhRT4tp6xASEI4g1kjBNDatN7qTDr64iY/s400/P5310087.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stony track on the way to La Quintade</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Each time the rain
abated, we thought we had seen the last of it. The sun would come out and the
temperature rise, and we’d have good weather for a while. However, some time
later we would catch another heavy shower that soaked us properly again.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm6A6r1gkNn1pN-fhLwxlE0EtDI4kq_4cQx-4PLfWmyhJkILGa9zLX8mPVOrmHv1dX_uLKzwBTBKqiLNhsn-uLoB54k3aw6KS4ASicu_fRs_OElpsTISVJw8QegBrGhqF8x99b9MePCYY/s1600/P5310090.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm6A6r1gkNn1pN-fhLwxlE0EtDI4kq_4cQx-4PLfWmyhJkILGa9zLX8mPVOrmHv1dX_uLKzwBTBKqiLNhsn-uLoB54k3aw6KS4ASicu_fRs_OElpsTISVJw8QegBrGhqF8x99b9MePCYY/s400/P5310090.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Descent into Cahors, with rain sweeping in</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
As we headed into
town, we crossed the Louis Philippe bridge over the Lot. At the end of the
bridge, in the old toll-booth, the L’Octroi provide support to pilgrims. We
were invited in for a cold drink and a passport stamp: chatting briefly, they
enquired politely if we were Julian and Claire? It seems that Karen had called
in earlier and asked them to look out for us – pilgrims looking out for one
another.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
While we were there,
we met another pilgrim who had walked all the way from Geneva. As this is
something we have a mind to do in due course, we quizzed him a little about his
route. He said it was good, and confirmed that at least one proper route does
exist, which is encouraging news for our future plans.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
As we passed through
town on the way to our hotel, the heavens opened. Amidst the heaviest rain of
the day, we sploshed through the streets and arrived at our hotel bedraggled
and dripping wet. It wasn't long before we were installed in our room, though, and
set about drying ourselves and our wet things.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo707QslUB4ODoQJMvtCfijMaCiihhtoRjnGqEMquEwhca4keVMRsAMZDT-fHTvq_p1LG4RyDP7vuzEQpS2dwSaVjXOxlCRcPwgN4q7KdI5GV1jnhdu7Bo3Rxi47_Xfg-YzaUjNNe77ZY/s1600/20170531_191223.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="576" data-original-width="1024" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo707QslUB4ODoQJMvtCfijMaCiihhtoRjnGqEMquEwhca4keVMRsAMZDT-fHTvq_p1LG4RyDP7vuzEQpS2dwSaVjXOxlCRcPwgN4q7KdI5GV1jnhdu7Bo3Rxi47_Xfg-YzaUjNNe77ZY/s400/20170531_191223.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A relaxing drink at the end of the day</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<span style="text-align: justify;">Having had just a 10-minute
sit down during a 16-mile day, we were ready for a rest. Then we tidied
ourselves up and went out for dinner, opting for a bar on the main square in
case any pilgrims passed by. None did, but we had a nice meal (salads, ice
cream / pannacotta, beers) and enjoyed the quite busy atmosphere. We even
managed to successfully challenge the bill in French!</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNKJA9J3GJHsc6WQpfyEHOTrt3FQmhRUvY8hrrWenUlmaiAHIjMwPxb-H37t5Z3vz7CztfQgAmuoY7giXB4hPUxo-RC4c1FWVJLujmJobkwktqS_9Mr5uaLeXuSahMhf7BUDahkma8XLs/s1600/20170531_213652.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="576" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNKJA9J3GJHsc6WQpfyEHOTrt3FQmhRUvY8hrrWenUlmaiAHIjMwPxb-H37t5Z3vz7CztfQgAmuoY7giXB4hPUxo-RC4c1FWVJLujmJobkwktqS_9Mr5uaLeXuSahMhf7BUDahkma8XLs/s400/20170531_213652.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unusual clock</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
To help dinner settle,
we had a quick look round the old town before returning to the hotel. It looks
quite interesting, and on another occasion we might have been tempted to
explore further. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
Julian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8924560762707341331.post-56859883323802100382017-07-08T08:32:00.000-07:002017-07-08T08:34:32.054-07:00The Le Puy Route - Part 4<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<b><u>Les Grangettes, Long
Days & Life on the Road - Conques to Cajarc</u></b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Late May 2017 found us
back on Camino again for the first time in about a year, amidst more upheaval
back in the UK. Last time around, it was Brexit: this time, we arrived in the
wake of the Manchester Arena bombing. We seem to be living through turbulent
times, so the prospect of a few peaceful days strolling through the beautiful
French countryside has much to recommend it.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
With flights and
transfers running to time, we arrived at our first digs near Conques, Les
Grangettes, at around 1.30pm, only to find there was no one in! No matter, we
waited on the veranda for a while, eventually ringing a mobile number gleaned
after a complex telephone rigmarole, just as our hosts returned. We’d surprised
them by arriving earlier than expected.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5lC6xCwpGgLehKMpJvTVTnOOB11ilo53ViVxwm1V0PaVDqU_LZ1Ux4pjX1vyry3cxKxlZTC6s1T_mL61q5_0ZGB7nn3oK7916-ZXLve36k0kLWrpSiv6KxKSGs8nK5jQn7Ihc9Y8Mj5A/s1600/P5260006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5lC6xCwpGgLehKMpJvTVTnOOB11ilo53ViVxwm1V0PaVDqU_LZ1Ux4pjX1vyry3cxKxlZTC6s1T_mL61q5_0ZGB7nn3oK7916-ZXLve36k0kLWrpSiv6KxKSGs8nK5jQn7Ihc9Y8Mj5A/s400/P5260006.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les Grangettes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Les Grangettes is a
lovely place, rural, rustic and seemingly rough at the edges, but with an
underlying chic and two lovely owners. We were showed to our room – a small,
two-floor accommodation – after which we walked the 5k into Conques for a warm-up
before tomorrow’s exertions – warm being the operative word, as it's about 30
degrees in the shade.</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisQSeePbucdD8SslVUpmlxYd4f8rJGKvYAm6obhl4OymuHxVaY8M8wnn4_LnkCqYbAlHjVkKRIcoEtfTh6L59ZYcdXNronc9rNAyFjScfEwWR98arLWjaGkq5wVz1aJbGwFf1NuW29lPo/s1600/P5260008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisQSeePbucdD8SslVUpmlxYd4f8rJGKvYAm6obhl4OymuHxVaY8M8wnn4_LnkCqYbAlHjVkKRIcoEtfTh6L59ZYcdXNronc9rNAyFjScfEwWR98arLWjaGkq5wVz1aJbGwFf1NuW29lPo/s400/P5260008.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Abbey Sainte-Foy</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Later, we wandered up
to the library for beer before aperitifs at 7.30pm and dinner at 8.00. It was a
fantastic evening, and very sociable. We ate with our hosts and family (Sybille
and Jean-Pierre, her sister Delphine and her son) and another family, and the conversation in French and English flowed all night. As a
poor French speaker, I loved the way we were made to feel properly included.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
We took aperitifs and canapes
in the library, then had dinner in the main kitchen (pate and ham to start,
braised venison, strawberry ice cream to finish) with wine and cheese – a very
civilised couple of hours, and a million miles away from the usual rushed meal
in front of the TV!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<u>Day 1: Conques to
Decazeville</u><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
19.75k (12.25 miles) /
Ascent = 786m / Descent = 846m<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
We woke to a bright
morning, and took breakfast in the communal kitchen – toast and jams, sheep’s
yoghurt, coffee, bread, cold meats and cheeses. There was so much to choose
from, we could only eat a little of what was on offer. Jean-Pierre wasn’t
about, though: he was busy flying to work in his private plane!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Sybille gave us a lift
into Conques, and we said our goodbyes. We had only spent a few hours together,
but it had been so relaxing and enjoyable it felt like much longer, as if we
had arrived as strangers and parted as friends.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKrO2QtCpGZXFvtZ1mCkUswP9l0WKvwCeYkojoRN7a4h4QzwDjE03FxMXghTCp7Yw0QiBvYOqUf-NtCfUBVP9GRFI590Qxux1v8X1cPJPjPGYdJF6OTIE90k06xCdxRjZehMOxrw_P42w/s1600/P5260009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKrO2QtCpGZXFvtZ1mCkUswP9l0WKvwCeYkojoRN7a4h4QzwDjE03FxMXghTCp7Yw0QiBvYOqUf-NtCfUBVP9GRFI590Qxux1v8X1cPJPjPGYdJF6OTIE90k06xCdxRjZehMOxrw_P42w/s400/P5260009.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Porte du Barry</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Conques was busy. There
was some sort of old car event going on, and the streets were full of cars and
people. We bought quiches from the bakery, and set off downhill, excited to be
on the Camino once more.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
It's holiday time in
France, with a clutch of Bank Holidays close together encouraging walkers out
onto the GR network. Consequently, the path was the busiest we had seen it
since starting out on the Le Puy route. Climbing past the Chapelle St Foy, a
group of around 15 people coalesced, passing and repassing each other through
the day. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD7wr_DKzd183JMxdlEu0OM87gg5cuL23RsSMjFnm8V3brFlueEBynGBoxL3C8Tw_kCIphMMy18bG_LrM7NWS4VSkSecdTILmRJXhWTwoP5ceob0CV59QOZUNYjKPWdxoZ-S6FMXYlUgw/s1600/P5260010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD7wr_DKzd183JMxdlEu0OM87gg5cuL23RsSMjFnm8V3brFlueEBynGBoxL3C8Tw_kCIphMMy18bG_LrM7NWS4VSkSecdTILmRJXhWTwoP5ceob0CV59QOZUNYjKPWdxoZ-S6FMXYlUgw/s400/P5260010.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back to Conques from the Chapelle Sainte-Foy</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
It wasn't too bad,
though – everyone found their own pace, as they do when long-distance walking, so
the group stretched out and we had plenty of quiet, and for the most part
walked alone.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinhFScAjafFSN6uJhLhKm31d0wq2m-biX6iwsVJ4Z43hROIaDNV4U_5EQh0U_ZUqmum4s3LQ7M7h9mN0yZig05L10HXFP2Q8BrOHUA1p7_9b2MEZUt4I2F7p0SGb52fci5GfZ3ez_qxkY/s1600/P5260015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinhFScAjafFSN6uJhLhKm31d0wq2m-biX6iwsVJ4Z43hROIaDNV4U_5EQh0U_ZUqmum4s3LQ7M7h9mN0yZig05L10HXFP2Q8BrOHUA1p7_9b2MEZUt4I2F7p0SGb52fci5GfZ3ez_qxkY/s400/P5260015.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chapelle Saint-Roch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
We stopped for drinks
in Noailhac; stopped again for lunch at the Chapelle St Roch. Then began an 11k
stretch where the route barely passed a house, let alone a village, as it wound
its way through idyllic countryside. It was quiet, and quite lovely – and hot!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaOTJ2MQ_niX6szO5evqOqRuTRUnaAAS6ttGsJcgD7qUeMUdpxs4odxHD7h0M5y3pS19U4yK8lBOs6MsxGiUmsC8RGj3Uy0mhqJ-kNqactmbjoE5ZpFUR-EkEAFxp1PZ-jZGhvET0IeK0/s1600/P5260013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaOTJ2MQ_niX6szO5evqOqRuTRUnaAAS6ttGsJcgD7qUeMUdpxs4odxHD7h0M5y3pS19U4yK8lBOs6MsxGiUmsC8RGj3Uy0mhqJ-kNqactmbjoE5ZpFUR-EkEAFxp1PZ-jZGhvET0IeK0/s400/P5260013.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Typical signage - left turn ahead</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Since the climb up
past the Chapelle St Foy early in the morning, we had been on high ground for much
of the day, the countryside perhaps resembling the uplands of the Cotswolds or
the White Peak more than anything else, with a mix of quiet lanes, tracks and
paths leading us on.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3ZO2Mo2O5kCvCnfq3zutWCyQ-KoseglNtvssGaYEd2rOhNmQpvEuk8tzYzkqd0CuGPGvh5-Ts0Qgkrhy_EN0hQv8vN_fnFZl4NN6LiC4U2wMRa-06SUOJ-6oiT-AjCx2cbxTw-L3yKug/s1600/P5260018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3ZO2Mo2O5kCvCnfq3zutWCyQ-KoseglNtvssGaYEd2rOhNmQpvEuk8tzYzkqd0CuGPGvh5-Ts0Qgkrhy_EN0hQv8vN_fnFZl4NN6LiC4U2wMRa-06SUOJ-6oiT-AjCx2cbxTw-L3yKug/s400/P5260018.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking beside the D606</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
After a brief stop to
top up on food, sunscreen and hydration salts, we carried on. Keeping energy
levels up and staying hydrated are important, especially when you are not yet
acclimatised to hotter temperatures and the demands of walking for several
hours each day.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTaMD2PT1VussapC4PEgJKXauc6w0IvCTX6Ufm9b082_r-68GNS2SQ5nioItjPR6RwbJYSMpJ4_3cuq6e0aI3hC7Kk_YLuA8OwrlbIhK93CkH-3E4Yi8yXkWQ5gTwjtn5NupyO6DLQDhs/s1600/P5260019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTaMD2PT1VussapC4PEgJKXauc6w0IvCTX6Ufm9b082_r-68GNS2SQ5nioItjPR6RwbJYSMpJ4_3cuq6e0aI3hC7Kk_YLuA8OwrlbIhK93CkH-3E4Yi8yXkWQ5gTwjtn5NupyO6DLQDhs/s400/P5260019.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the start of the descent into Decazeville</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
The descent into
Decazeville followed a narrow lane, and was quite steep in places. But we eventually
reached the town, crossing road junctions and ducking under the bypass. Our
hotel was easily found, but again it wasn't open, so again we had to ring them
up and were given an access code with the promise that someone would be there <i>“à bientôt”.</i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Once installed inside,
we had a wash and brush up and a rest before dinner. Today’s walk was not that
long, but it was quite hot. As we have two much longer days to come, time
available to rest up and relax was gratefully accepted.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPlKs_qpyiyoC8_PYZdKR1Fe2spGzwQ7A8BcDMm20vDGT9YXvlUnCOleW_FXg1ICE2I6ns7nh3lZqLcU99qncxcgIFc82QhpUA6HFzH07ZheLxv_kGDypGlaY7w_p-kxbTAqnpFwhyphenhyphenycM/s1600/P5260021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPlKs_qpyiyoC8_PYZdKR1Fe2spGzwQ7A8BcDMm20vDGT9YXvlUnCOleW_FXg1ICE2I6ns7nh3lZqLcU99qncxcgIFc82QhpUA6HFzH07ZheLxv_kGDypGlaY7w_p-kxbTAqnpFwhyphenhyphenycM/s400/P5260021.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Central square, Decazeville</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
We walked out for a
few minutes either side of dinner, checking out options for supplies for
tomorrow. Dinner itself consisted of a ham and melon starter, steak and chips,<i> tarte aux pommes</i> and lots of water.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
So, it was mission
accomplished today – do the distance, without getting too tired, footsore,
sunburnt or dehydrated, for tomorrow is a big day!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<u>Day 2: Decazeville to
Figeac</u><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
30.25k (18.75 miles) /
Asecnt = 997m / Descent = 946m<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
We woke early and
enjoyed a simple breakfast of coffee, orange juice, fruit and croissant. Quite
a big day beckoned and we were eager to be underway, so by 8.30am we had
checked out, got a stamp for our passports, bought lunch from the local
patisserie and set off. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio9xXCgbWrEEwPETlfIZTSbUz1IkVcvRI7bvZI-N9NWrALWvAUYNPVArtjlmWnPyvk37JGW7kUMuXDuu7b5k9P2JkWNvcNzHgvP5q4fKLEf3w9KM2_fzi79TyWczpx68I3246lpddxyPg/s1600/P5270022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio9xXCgbWrEEwPETlfIZTSbUz1IkVcvRI7bvZI-N9NWrALWvAUYNPVArtjlmWnPyvk37JGW7kUMuXDuu7b5k9P2JkWNvcNzHgvP5q4fKLEf3w9KM2_fzi79TyWczpx68I3246lpddxyPg/s400/P5270022.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crossing the Lot on the way into Livinac-le-Haut</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
The first objective was
the climb out of Decazeville, rewarded by great views over the Lot valley as we
reached the ridge and enjoyed a level stroll for a couple of kilometres.
Dropping down into Livinhac-le-Haut, a little town that was almost asleep in
the bosom of warm sunshine, we crossed the River Lot before a more gradual
climb back out of the valley.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjznoz3R00F-BJdgEKmsNKpNoeeSsSsdG9IS6W5rLzl6D6zdt9UbxJjQatULKdlnqDHyehRd6Q2gNbQTdJYzdyVgbEaYeB31u0ut_1CrialWLN7lQOuBPX2CuwjHlDahFVzKBt0eSWRRzA/s1600/P5270023.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjznoz3R00F-BJdgEKmsNKpNoeeSsSsdG9IS6W5rLzl6D6zdt9UbxJjQatULKdlnqDHyehRd6Q2gNbQTdJYzdyVgbEaYeB31u0ut_1CrialWLN7lQOuBPX2CuwjHlDahFVzKBt0eSWRRzA/s400/P5270023.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sign in French and Occitan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Gaining height, we
followed a series of lanes and tracks to reach the hilltop village of Montredon,
where we stopped briefly for pear and apricots and a short rest by the church,
watched over by an insouciant cat.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-XjLbTTzDrVBypxnp_FGGGs8poTyHjxlC_4e0MLAtfyKAuPqUaSJbDkNdHkQ26p6hMJ_vTPdU4lq0ToKyKjBsl5KdyyvYOC1bq7-FkEOoIACkIEQtQFinCivVfsMw1U2vrfj-HY6_I3Y/s1600/P5270026.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-XjLbTTzDrVBypxnp_FGGGs8poTyHjxlC_4e0MLAtfyKAuPqUaSJbDkNdHkQ26p6hMJ_vTPdU4lq0ToKyKjBsl5KdyyvYOC1bq7-FkEOoIACkIEQtQFinCivVfsMw1U2vrfj-HY6_I3Y/s400/P5270026.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Viewpoint on the way into Montredon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Moving on, we followed
lanes and tracks towards the Chapelle de Guirande, where we got another stamp to
make up for missing yesterday! We took another short break, and topped up with
water from the nearby fountain.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
For the first few days
walking in hot conditions, we drink quite a lot of water – maybe 3-4 litres or
more each per day. I think many people, us included, spend much of their
day-to-day lives a little on the dehydrated side, and that, alongside the
significant loss of fluids (and salts) through perspiration, means it takes 2-3
days of frequent water stops before we are properly hydrated.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsMDBo6aaWyNjwdczY0_vZMG2YWg6HNFgJsNzh7t2Rui03Vc38kng2upFnHNT5r0tJ2TalWwm_7_6rr9zm0lbGsif-uBuD_W5d3elAYB53GM78O0Qn26SKF9zR7Ch53pObkU73qOxzEWQ/s1600/P5270028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsMDBo6aaWyNjwdczY0_vZMG2YWg6HNFgJsNzh7t2Rui03Vc38kng2upFnHNT5r0tJ2TalWwm_7_6rr9zm0lbGsif-uBuD_W5d3elAYB53GM78O0Qn26SKF9zR7Ch53pObkU73qOxzEWQ/s400/P5270028.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Interesting tiled roof</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Our goal since
spotting the sign near Livinhac was to reach a gîte in a tiny hamlet called
Bord, somewhere that looked capable of selling food and drink. Options had been
few and far between earlier in the day – even Livignac only had a grocer’s shop
open.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
We just about made it
before tiredness and hunger set in, and it was well worth it. A shady stop with
picnic tables, we bought cokes and ice creams and guzzled them down, and sat
for half an hour just resting in the cool. We ate one of our quiches, too. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
There were other
walkers here as well – four or five groups, some of whom we would see over the
next few days like the pair we dubbed the “Brazilian couple” – not that they
were from Brazil, but she wore a bandana with “Brazil” on it.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
As I paid, I struggled
to make the lady understand we wanted to buy another coke. In the end, I paid
our bill, held up a E2 coin and asked for a coke. Light dawned, and laughter
too!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4t_YQW9ZVLMoSBlDCHSt2ZdG0286kcCztLpr-4V_3e_AQNvvlDq3SSPlFt9Oz_-xKBYW1B02nkOoKY7KqXcPqZ7lw2bAx6hrSU3IWodUeDOvsAujOGEN3Ut7uHLbCnjWNI7MZ4snCOVI/s1600/P5270030.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4t_YQW9ZVLMoSBlDCHSt2ZdG0286kcCztLpr-4V_3e_AQNvvlDq3SSPlFt9Oz_-xKBYW1B02nkOoKY7KqXcPqZ7lw2bAx6hrSU3IWodUeDOvsAujOGEN3Ut7uHLbCnjWNI7MZ4snCOVI/s400/P5270030.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shady path beyond Bord</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Moving on, we skirted
St Félix and soon came to the church of St Mirabel. We sat at a communal stop
with drinking water and a large bicycle sculpture (commemorating some local Tour
de France stage winner from 2004), eating fruit and drinking rehydration salts.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWTI4oUndB8tBIavMusf6gy8iv7sP5Fz6xjPZaE5vbliK2lTEpd0oUdTBiJl-orc2pSp4xHCdHfQAj0G9gHVYbrHbBsRM1CLufw0eINeY5IP0y5AnWPvaADvvzYGKWVvDhn3ICBxZQpwE/s1600/P5270031.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWTI4oUndB8tBIavMusf6gy8iv7sP5Fz6xjPZaE5vbliK2lTEpd0oUdTBiJl-orc2pSp4xHCdHfQAj0G9gHVYbrHbBsRM1CLufw0eINeY5IP0y5AnWPvaADvvzYGKWVvDhn3ICBxZQpwE/s400/P5270031.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bicycle sculpture with church of Saint-Jean Mirabel behind</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p> </o:p> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Most of the final 6-7k
were also nice, and a pleasant way of finishing a lengthy day. After a long
stretch by the busy D2 road, the route threaded its way through countryside on
tracks and quiet lanes, followed finally by a long descent into Figeac. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
It seemed hotter lower
down, the heat not mitigated by the cooling breeze of the tops, and the final
trudge along a busy road that morphed into a town street of scruffy appearance
wasn’t perhaps the most auspicious approach to a town.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
However, this poor
first impression gave way to a rather pleasant old town centre. Our hotel for
the night is one Best Western chain, of quite a nice standard and with a smart
room. </div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmQvsMjtDAWVgN0X6GAK-i8A905WdnUiWVeLvaRC4lYUJpRnMZy2jmI5SGhEjqCKuWQsxa_TCaMB6cYCUwFRnL7WW_nyilunVSc6qLz3eUytiDvcFFnhOEDfklSwPrmL1w7DXrWX0FedA/s1600/20170527_194307.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="576" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmQvsMjtDAWVgN0X6GAK-i8A905WdnUiWVeLvaRC4lYUJpRnMZy2jmI5SGhEjqCKuWQsxa_TCaMB6cYCUwFRnL7WW_nyilunVSc6qLz3eUytiDvcFFnhOEDfklSwPrmL1w7DXrWX0FedA/s400/20170527_194307.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying dinner beside the river</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
We had dinner on the terrace, sitting beside the River Célé, and I can't
remember us ever having done that before. It was a nice meal, too – chicken
salad to start with, salmon/duck for main course and crème brûlée/tarte au
chocolat for dessert.</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRBbkEW6WXfQd7Efay2RZYT-CzjMG8ndET0fHa-06sVjkwXoSuDreuRbpgSpm54HoTgW91OpYvMzKURVGon3clq02kr7hKqXKUz_M8sPe_dHp1lV3F4UukN5IaD9uxCNISVjVdD2yRywc/s1600/P5270036.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRBbkEW6WXfQd7Efay2RZYT-CzjMG8ndET0fHa-06sVjkwXoSuDreuRbpgSpm54HoTgW91OpYvMzKURVGon3clq02kr7hKqXKUz_M8sPe_dHp1lV3F4UukN5IaD9uxCNISVjVdD2yRywc/s400/P5270036.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our hotel on the river front</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Afterwards, we took a
quick stroll round the old town, checking out shops for restocking in the
morning.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<u>Day 3: Figeac to
Cajarc</u><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
32.50k (20.25 miles) /
Ascent & Descent not recorded<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
With another long day
in prospect – longer than yesterday, in fact – a good early start was required.
We breakfasted on the terrace overlooking the river, warm enough to eat out in
just shorts and shirt even at 7.00am. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4_QKlwRHxD2ZEOzFHbVdKhWgeKvtLAqVi_zmtbcxME71IdyIu_xydSSZ17Fu65tBwXu2R-kE88f8_FHsg75rrXS9sxyDr1Cu2eYkJ3rDUQZrv-AGiiovDcobWJ6Nsyo-Shf_5GO7oTB8/s1600/P5280038.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4_QKlwRHxD2ZEOzFHbVdKhWgeKvtLAqVi_zmtbcxME71IdyIu_xydSSZ17Fu65tBwXu2R-kE88f8_FHsg75rrXS9sxyDr1Cu2eYkJ3rDUQZrv-AGiiovDcobWJ6Nsyo-Shf_5GO7oTB8/s400/P5280038.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Early morning shadows</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
By 8.00am, we were on
our way, heading out of town and starting our first steep climb of the day back
up on to the plateau. The first few miles along the ridge were quiet and
peaceful, with pilgrims only occasionally in sight before and behind.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin6AjvxvGlERFAKMraqdTWmaSEIkGdjWHQ_l_tB3m5vX0_UU1x3iMKo0aPitjoGKQ_PWRwE4EeqKg2r7tGlD2_YUEflBs7SYq_DXhL3OL3K5fCj0CCbqnolwJ83n4f138huNK73e5aDpg/s1600/P5280041.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin6AjvxvGlERFAKMraqdTWmaSEIkGdjWHQ_l_tB3m5vX0_UU1x3iMKo0aPitjoGKQ_PWRwE4EeqKg2r7tGlD2_YUEflBs7SYq_DXhL3OL3K5fCj0CCbqnolwJ83n4f138huNK73e5aDpg/s400/P5280041.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading for the cafe in Feycelles</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
At Feycelles, a pretty
village overlooking the Lot valley, we stopped for drinks and ice creams. We
were served by Monsieur, polite and brisk, and two cokes were before us <i>tout de suite</i>. Madame, on the other
hand, was a grumpy thing, whose demeanour erred a little too far towards surly
to be charmingly quirky. She did manage a brief <i>“Bonne journée”</i> as we left, though.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv3HhRtA9bNf-pa9jj67I938HYa2OtLyTjT8QGo5kHEXw3AJFDgawTw22pa9dv_TSxoo2zTfW0rPluYJvQN5B5flmOMz-T7D1MMg2wiugZa7Wc3Nfs9goLgz-d8KnmxhLnfQqBtDolBFE/s1600/P5280039.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv3HhRtA9bNf-pa9jj67I938HYa2OtLyTjT8QGo5kHEXw3AJFDgawTw22pa9dv_TSxoo2zTfW0rPluYJvQN5B5flmOMz-T7D1MMg2wiugZa7Wc3Nfs9goLgz-d8KnmxhLnfQqBtDolBFE/s400/P5280039.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Poppies in the hedgerow</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
A longish section
followed – more lanes, tracks and paths, which were easy enough to follow
except for the criss-crossing of a number of GR routes – we had to make sure we
were following the right red and white blazes.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
After another lengthy
section, we stopped for a quick rest, snacks and a drink, then carried on to the
village of Gréalou. Here, we took a longer rest on the green, topped up on sunscreen
and potable water, and had a snooze prior to the final miles.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJWT5RFOTAnOSYIyxg5qIwMnRJpPGT4qISCE417o2K2CSHyaxqWm5M4hJ7UfbbFose-IBrpwdTmngj-0suomGgJs5rOV9UjzWjA3wHMuRyYX6-EVasELTO9sHse0cwZ27n8bTJvYlgbsk/s1600/20170528_143215.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="576" data-original-width="1024" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJWT5RFOTAnOSYIyxg5qIwMnRJpPGT4qISCE417o2K2CSHyaxqWm5M4hJ7UfbbFose-IBrpwdTmngj-0suomGgJs5rOV9UjzWjA3wHMuRyYX6-EVasELTO9sHse0cwZ27n8bTJvYlgbsk/s400/20170528_143215.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taking a well-earned rest, Grealou</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Those final miles were
quite testing. Even though we passed a Neolithic dolmen to keep our interest
up, we seemed to be walking for ages only to find we had barely knocked off
another kilometre. It was like walking through treacle: would we ever reach
Cajarc?</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAq-XLPP4jMJyVq0hdjRbqlZHjHXHCsJQyIbj75xEmIDOOGUf5niTH3vJJGrnaHHF7do8yeUs-PVMllWhqtTuUrBLnxpQohyphenhyphensXkGbBSE7BRkTWhDRQHcU_2m2pjPpzEwqei1dpFpnFJ5g/s1600/P5280043.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAq-XLPP4jMJyVq0hdjRbqlZHjHXHCsJQyIbj75xEmIDOOGUf5niTH3vJJGrnaHHF7do8yeUs-PVMllWhqtTuUrBLnxpQohyphenhyphensXkGbBSE7BRkTWhDRQHcU_2m2pjPpzEwqei1dpFpnFJ5g/s400/P5280043.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Neolithic Dolmen near Grealou</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Eventually, we crested
a hill and to our relief saw the town below, set in a loop of the River Lot in
an amphitheatre of limestone cliffs. It still seemed some way away, but by
following a cunning path below the cliffs we dropped suddenly to valley level
and rolled into town unexpectedly quickly, with only our hotel to find. </div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMO50w8G3KlxowuSPleW7PpmKL53wG9iUcHjkznmlQkL3HCaX7yiqI8ERMVoRJaWPDKMA3rR7Lxl7NGf7PAdqQXTpjLHEES7QCRGJYbKTpgtw6B-OpcbTg5ud8OyjVsJkgGmdTShXTkdg/s1600/P5280047.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMO50w8G3KlxowuSPleW7PpmKL53wG9iUcHjkznmlQkL3HCaX7yiqI8ERMVoRJaWPDKMA3rR7Lxl7NGf7PAdqQXTpjLHEES7QCRGJYbKTpgtw6B-OpcbTg5ud8OyjVsJkgGmdTShXTkdg/s400/P5280047.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Path below the cliffs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
We arrived at 6.30pm.
The hotel is nice – modern and smart, suited rather more to business needs and family
get-togethers than smelly pilgrims, but we enjoyed the facilities none the
less. A brief tidy and we were ready for dinner – a lovely meal with a
speciality salad starter, duck leg as the main course and a local pudding to
finish, all washed down with large beers and a big bottle of fizzy water.</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTuCqBFl9mqQUUm0x2iNlJb7aJzdC_MEZVV-YCKAznTncsMjVPUerZOm-XTMqSyL0hWpalfVfKO2hISgUTBURhZdfBJWZnqE8v9k3caWVNI3lne-BIfH2QGLCSW4PN2oB97SZwUfpEecc/s1600/20170528_195805.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="576" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTuCqBFl9mqQUUm0x2iNlJb7aJzdC_MEZVV-YCKAznTncsMjVPUerZOm-XTMqSyL0hWpalfVfKO2hISgUTBURhZdfBJWZnqE8v9k3caWVNI3lne-BIfH2QGLCSW4PN2oB97SZwUfpEecc/s400/20170528_195805.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Relaxing before dinner after a long day</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
We have again drunk
loads today – I reckon that from dawn to dusk I had about 5 litres yesterday,
and it must be close to the same today. Keeping fit and healthy and avoiding
dehydration is a must when days are long and the temperature is up in the 30s.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Sunscreen, too, is
important. Walking in the heat of the afternoon, often out in the open in what
must be in excess of 30°C in the shade, means taking precautions – besides
plenty of fluids, a hat, covering up perhaps, and regular sunscreen
applications are all recommended, especially as we have not been exposed to
these kinds of temperatures when walking since this time last year.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Despite the heat, they
have been good days, with an element of challenge too – something we like as
part of our pilgrimage walking, especially when we have to get up and walk
again the next day come what may. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjMgSK1nfsVTw2n98KxpewALbsO9rt93OP3yr7R7Efc3k_qmHQ_d4L9WOIiuUvl0ZekAO8N4D8bwi5-RJtD0A0rxXTlEo9tIB35WzJYXDPNfgxsdlIuHeIxYF2DlDp25ubjJLHreEFV94/s1600/P5280046.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjMgSK1nfsVTw2n98KxpewALbsO9rt93OP3yr7R7Efc3k_qmHQ_d4L9WOIiuUvl0ZekAO8N4D8bwi5-RJtD0A0rxXTlEo9tIB35WzJYXDPNfgxsdlIuHeIxYF2DlDp25ubjJLHreEFV94/s400/P5280046.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cajarc! A welcome sight at the end of a long day</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Even though we may
have done some preparatory hikes at home, the first two or three days of each
trip always revolve around getting back into the fitness and routine required
for multi-day long-distance walking. And, in a way, this is all part of the
fun!</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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This time, we found
slipping back into “trail readiness” quite easy – the baggage of our home lives
easily surrendered, whilst our trekking baggage was properly organised from the
outset. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
Julian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8924560762707341331.post-76604845721359697092017-04-02T01:27:00.001-07:002017-04-02T01:27:19.655-07:00Bad For Good: Part 3<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<u><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Day 5 – Walking and Skiing in
Sportgastein, and walking back from Bad Gastein <o:p></o:p></span></u></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">11.75 miles<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">With a promising start and favourable forecast, we
caught the bus up to Sportgastein at the head of the valley, wedged in on the
9.15am with all the downhillers. Characterised in the main by rudeness,
interesting personal hygiene and lack of spatial awareness, it would be easy to
get piste-off with the off-piste crowd.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-d1QA7c--S-E/WL2H3KOoxRI/AAAAAAAADPI/KoHNWQOvg50FuOJDiueB7jyB2baeIfwDgCPcB/s1600/P3020076.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-d1QA7c--S-E/WL2H3KOoxRI/AAAAAAAADPI/KoHNWQOvg50FuOJDiueB7jyB2baeIfwDgCPcB/s400/P3020076.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking the 5k loop at Sportgastein</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Not to worry. We grabbed a seat for the 40-minute
journey, and enjoyed the views beyond Bad Gastein for the first time. As we
passed Bockstein, we entered a steep-sided gorge that had the road ducking
through tunnels and avalanche sheds before finally exiting the gorge to reveal
a lovely snowy cirque perched at 1600m above sea level.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">With more work required to get there, it was a little
less busy than other ski areas, and with separate areas for downhill and
walking/langlauf, good snow conditions and some of the best weather of the week,
it proved to be a beautiful setting.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UiKUSAOBbc8/WL2H3LdM5aI/AAAAAAAADPI/-V7GIziU9AMmG0uWiUdLd_yCj0BhL4oqACPcB/s1600/P3020077.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UiKUSAOBbc8/WL2H3LdM5aI/AAAAAAAADPI/-V7GIziU9AMmG0uWiUdLd_yCj0BhL4oqACPcB/s400/P3020077.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting ready for the off</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">We started by following the 5k prepared walking track,
a gently undulating path that toured the bottom of the cirque whilst
criss-crossing the langlauf tracks. It was such a beautiful morning that we
were thinking of going round again, when Missy G declared she was up for a spot
of cross-country skiing!</span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P9kEQPJTsbU/WNlBDEGmJeI/AAAAAAAADU0/SKyxOztxtwQJDkF30LksqCDwhiO92HKgACPcB/s1600/20170302_114343.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P9kEQPJTsbU/WNlBDEGmJeI/AAAAAAAADU0/SKyxOztxtwQJDkF30LksqCDwhiO92HKgACPcB/s640/20170302_114343.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">A short while later, replete with rented skis, poles
and boots, we were gliding effortlessly across the snow in glorious sunshine
and crystal-clear air like practiced professionals. Well, not really, but we
were following the track with reasonable accuracy, if a bit slowly, and with only
minor falling over.</span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lCbAE9z-Q4M/WNlBDB4W86I/AAAAAAAADU0/Jko4-2vlejQ1ShIbnkqs8pf8hmxG_NJ-QCPcB/s1600/20170302_115242.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lCbAE9z-Q4M/WNlBDB4W86I/AAAAAAAADU0/Jko4-2vlejQ1ShIbnkqs8pf8hmxG_NJ-QCPcB/s400/20170302_115242.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">However, we did improve, and the last couple of
hundred metres was negotiated without incident and in some style in front of
the watching hordes.</span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JvDfj3Km96o/WNlBDPYuN1I/AAAAAAAADU0/dsFHfPSTeGcnpG011vfiw3mHfixzOhf1gCPcB/s1600/20170302_115343.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JvDfj3Km96o/WNlBDPYuN1I/AAAAAAAADU0/dsFHfPSTeGcnpG011vfiw3mHfixzOhf1gCPcB/s640/20170302_115343.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">We then caught the bus back to Bad Gastein and picked
up the Kaiser Wilhelm Promenade towards Grune Baum (stopping for a quick lunch
break by a memorial to the Kaiser). After crossing the entrance of the Kotschachtal,
we joined the Martin Ledinger Gasteiner Hohenweg, heading for Bad Hofgastein.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">With signs advising the route to be “Closed in Winter”
but plenty of footprints to evidence recent passage, there was some doubt as to
how far we would be able to get. In the other direction, we had seen it was
closed beyond the Rauchberg Muhle. But for how far?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qmFDEmUBYWA/WL2H3N6FouI/AAAAAAAADPI/ZqBocN7WgekiUN5h45nDOarlX8T77Wo7ACPcB/s1600/P3020079.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qmFDEmUBYWA/WL2H3N6FouI/AAAAAAAADPI/ZqBocN7WgekiUN5h45nDOarlX8T77Wo7ACPcB/s400/P3020079.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">In the end, the going was easy and there was little
snow to negotiate. So, we made it a good way along before opting to drop into
the valley at Gadaunern, from where we followed the back road into Bad Hofgastein
via Felding.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We’d had another good day. It was quite tiring, though
– you wouldn’t believe how many calories you burn Cross-country Skiing! - but we
finished off the day as we did all days with relaxation, dinner and a stroll.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<u><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Day 6 – Grune Baum to Prossau and
back, and return to Bad Hofgastein<o:p></o:p></span></u></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">13.50 miles<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Another decent morning beckoned, with the promise of bright
sunshine for much of the day. We ran the gauntlet of downhillers again,
catching the bus to Bad Gastein and on again to Grune Baum.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We had enjoyed our trip to the Alpenhaus Prossau so
much a few days ago, we decided to go again. Not that huge platefuls of strudel
had anything to do with our decision! This time we planned to return to Bad Hofgastein
by the high route found yesterday, making for a doable but quite long day out
(and one which would require a bit of lunchtime fuelling).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiH8t4YyQwOEoAjDB9pPgBX26bsPM4ozdX1Er-iJwhm0Pgtc2IT-bm4Ox3MtGlV2inCeDxGUdWHgkZM3-Azs-E40Pg2XbscvpenDMvsvYBb0fUtYvC3tw-OUUzQrIMCSmdvo1QWUdB-QY/s1600/P3030086.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiH8t4YyQwOEoAjDB9pPgBX26bsPM4ozdX1Er-iJwhm0Pgtc2IT-bm4Ox3MtGlV2inCeDxGUdWHgkZM3-Azs-E40Pg2XbscvpenDMvsvYBb0fUtYvC3tw-OUUzQrIMCSmdvo1QWUdB-QY/s400/P3030086.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The valley was looking beautiful with a little extra
snow on the ground. We made our way up the track, reaching the hut at about
11.30. Radler and Strudel were promptly ordered. Mine took about half an hour
to come, with suitable apologies, but was fresh out of the oven and almost too
delicious for words. Almost, but not quite: layer upon layer of thinly sliced
apples piled high, bound with a delicate pastry and served with vanilla sauce, whipped
cream, and ice cream gently melting into it on the side. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">As before, we made the walk back down in just over an
hour. After a quick coffee at Grune Baum, we dispensed with our Yaktrax and set
off to join the Gasteiner Hohenweg.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">It was beautiful in the afternoon sun, and quite warm
too – only a fleece and T-shirt required, which is not bad for an early March
day in the Alps.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-71sUVlal91I/WL2H3K3crgI/AAAAAAAADPI/oLgeu8cSxp8q7SZCoCrpd9EeHsxouMHEwCPcB/s1600/P3030093.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-71sUVlal91I/WL2H3K3crgI/AAAAAAAADPI/oLgeu8cSxp8q7SZCoCrpd9EeHsxouMHEwCPcB/s400/P3030093.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Making our way back via Gadaunern again, we were quite
tired by the time we got back to the hotel. That didn’t stop us having our
regular wander out after dinner, though!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<u><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Day 7 – Bas Gastein to Bad Hofgastein
via the Gasteiner Hohenweg<o:p></o:p></span></u></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">6.50 miles<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Once we had discovered our departure time, we realised
we had a good few hours available in which to go a walk. The weather was good,
so to make the most of the time and conditions, we followed the Gasteiner
Hohenweg back from Bad Gastein again – for the third day in a row!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-u0wNsGhpe00/WL2H3OSjrkI/AAAAAAAADPI/ZhYs8NKrkiEVcqYokHth5to-c_tOCUDHQCPcB/s1600/P3040095.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-u0wNsGhpe00/WL2H3OSjrkI/AAAAAAAADPI/ZhYs8NKrkiEVcqYokHth5to-c_tOCUDHQCPcB/s400/P3040095.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">That may seem a bit under-ambitious, but to be honest
some of the best views were to be had from the path, and we knew the way so
needed a minimum of maps, bus timetables, etc, which were already safely packed
away.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">All that remained when we got back to Bad Hofgastein
was to grab a spot of lunch and get ourselves tidied up for the transfer to
Salzburg airport.</span></div>
Julian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8924560762707341331.post-21774883970701009752017-03-31T10:03:00.000-07:002017-03-31T10:03:06.225-07:00Bad For Good: Part 2<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<u><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Day 3 – Grune Baum to Prossau and
back to Bad Gastein <o:p></o:p></span></u></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">10.00 miles<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">By now, we were getting the geography of the valley
and the transport options a little clearer in our minds. There are lots of ski
buses, which walkers aren’t able to use, but also a good service bus timetable,
with major routes running along the length of the valley and side services from
each of the main towns.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The service buses are half price using the Gastein
Card (which is free from hotels) which made most journeys about €1.20 (about
£1.00). This is good value: there is a walkers’ pass available covering all
buses and ski lifts, but its €89 per person, and unless you intend to use the
lifts a minimum of 4 times return, it doesn’t pay off (although it might do in
the summer – there looks to be plenty of walking in the area). So, we would
recommend pay-as-you-go as the most cost-effective way of paying for
transport during the ski season.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Anyway, we caught the 9.15am bus to Bas Gastein and
had a quick look around some gear shops before catching a connecting service to
Grune Baum at the entrance of the Kotschachtal valley.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Nzvygmeqy_I/WL2H3EINVdI/AAAAAAAADPI/tEy82KQ6kWwUTOvMEPiNgdnXmkKLw4JxwCPcB/s1600/P2280054.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Nzvygmeqy_I/WL2H3EINVdI/AAAAAAAADPI/tEy82KQ6kWwUTOvMEPiNgdnXmkKLw4JxwCPcB/s400/P2280054.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grune Baum</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zIyCeit1BUE/WL2H3PYWLzI/AAAAAAAADPI/Ga46q95oN9Y1816Dxvaf9MKattiR6sGGwCPcB/s1600/P2280041.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zIyCeit1BUE/WL2H3PYWLzI/AAAAAAAADPI/Ga46q95oN9Y1816Dxvaf9MKattiR6sGGwCPcB/s400/P2280041.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking along the Kotschachtal valley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">It was immediately clear that it was much quieter
here. Once past the stop for the Graukogel lift there is no skiing in the
valley, and for the first time we got a real sense of peace and quiet.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cGghI9_XFE4/WL2H3K_6mtI/AAAAAAAADPI/EIFbR-upk-s15XyjHApsbgnJwLk0mJA7gCPcB/s1600/P2280043.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cGghI9_XFE4/WL2H3K_6mtI/AAAAAAAADPI/EIFbR-upk-s15XyjHApsbgnJwLk0mJA7gCPcB/s400/P2280043.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Following the track through the valley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">We followed a wide track through the steep-sided
valley, with wooded slopes to either side and occasional glimpses of the higher
summits beyond. Before long, we passed into the Hohe Tauern Nation Park –
Austria’s largest National Park, and home to its highest mountain, the
Grossglockner, only a few miles away as the crow flies, but hours away by road.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gvl2FnYqrnY/WL2H3LqMvMI/AAAAAAAADPI/vpFFUmDIAmwP8g4-2A3RISCvkvEt96fTgCPcB/s1600/P2280045.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gvl2FnYqrnY/WL2H3LqMvMI/AAAAAAAADPI/vpFFUmDIAmwP8g4-2A3RISCvkvEt96fTgCPcB/s400/P2280045.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entering the Hohe Tauern National Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Rain had been forecast, but pretty much kept off all
day. In fact, there was sunshine from time to time, and with the relatively
warm temperatures, it felt at times more spring-like than wintery.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3emWCh7R7E0/WNfXO0-McRI/AAAAAAAADSw/VFHSF5Sr3WELRfs88yL8_tZrP2orUo9sACPcB/s1600/20170228_111153.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3emWCh7R7E0/WNfXO0-McRI/AAAAAAAADSw/VFHSF5Sr3WELRfs88yL8_tZrP2orUo9sACPcB/s400/20170228_111153.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunshine and snow, a winning combination</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HGu_wFafF_Q/WNfXO2jYKOI/AAAAAAAADSw/zkeoMNCoVcAUE4xovx_D_WjfdYslF01fgCPcB/s1600/20170228_105609.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HGu_wFafF_Q/WNfXO2jYKOI/AAAAAAAADSw/zkeoMNCoVcAUE4xovx_D_WjfdYslF01fgCPcB/s400/20170228_105609.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shadow on the snow</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">After a gentle climb of around an hour and a half, we
reached the Alpenhaus Prossau. Rather surprisingly, we found it open. Inside,
temptation was put in front of us in the form of a naughty-looking menu and a lovely
smell of baking.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c30lO-6s4qI/WL2H3IFTaOI/AAAAAAAADPI/szkvdxtIx44KlWKa0hve7kgBhp59KDzRwCPcB/s1600/P2280050.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c30lO-6s4qI/WL2H3IFTaOI/AAAAAAAADPI/szkvdxtIx44KlWKa0hve7kgBhp59KDzRwCPcB/s400/P2280050.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alpenhaus Prossau</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">We resisted, but only for a few seconds. Then our
will-power melted as quickly as the ice cream on two delicious helpings of hot strudel (complete with
whipped cream, vanilla sauce and a shot of liqueur for that
extra-warming touch). Glorious! Well, it was
Shrove Tuesday, and it would have been disrespectful not to celebrate it. In
fact, I seem to remember hearing that there’s an EU directive compelling foreign visitors to eat cake/pastries/puddings* on Shrove Tuesday in Europe – it’s
the law! (* delight as applicable).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Suitably fortified, we headed back towards Grune Baum
on what was now a much busier track. The sun was out and the snow melting as we
reached the village. After a brief coffee stop, we picked up the Kaiser-Wilhelm-Promenade
back towards Bad Gastein, which offered level walking and good views over the
valley and town.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-riiLjgpcrQU/WL2H3MYtafI/AAAAAAAADPI/mVP3Rw8IO2YG4-XBrWpSyiihTfYt26yxwCPcB/s1600/P2280056.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-riiLjgpcrQU/WL2H3MYtafI/AAAAAAAADPI/mVP3Rw8IO2YG4-XBrWpSyiihTfYt26yxwCPcB/s400/P2280056.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View down the Gastein Valley from the Kaiser-Wilhelm-Promenade</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">About 100m before the stop we saw a bus pull away. Not
to worry, though: they are frequent enough, so we caught the next one and were
soon back in Bad Hofgastein.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XTT87AdkvCY/WL2H3LcFOVI/AAAAAAAADPI/LsXphwFb330qeb3z9qbPpZJeX9TnW0fTQCPcB/s1600/P2280058.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XTT87AdkvCY/WL2H3LcFOVI/AAAAAAAADPI/LsXphwFb330qeb3z9qbPpZJeX9TnW0fTQCPcB/s400/P2280058.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waterfall in Bad Gastein</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Shrove tide is time for celebration in Austria, and as
we made our way back to the hotel we were confronted with the sight of clowns
playing brass band music. Not people fooling around with tubas, you understand, but actual big-haired,
baggy-trousered, badly-made-up creepy clowns, with all the proper instruments, and trombones.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Sadly, or maybe not so sadly for the Coulrophobics
amongst you, we were too stunned and disconcerted to take any pictures of this weird phenomenon.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<u><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Day 4 – Around Bad Gastein <o:p></o:p></span></u></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">9.25 miles<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">And then this …..<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Pjh6C1xfmBw/WL2H3IZttnI/AAAAAAAADPI/_0pgTyvh7CgFB9JPrzWqfRU3lwlaj3VwACPcB/s1600/P3010059.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Pjh6C1xfmBw/WL2H3IZttnI/AAAAAAAADPI/_0pgTyvh7CgFB9JPrzWqfRU3lwlaj3VwACPcB/s400/P3010059.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Early morning, March 1st. White Rabbit!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">We awoke this morning to find it had snowed overnight.
Not much, but it did now look a lot more like the winter wonderland we had hoped for.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Our option was to stay close to Bad Gastein and wander
to some of the nearby points, eschewing the need to compete for bus seats
and valuable oxygen with the newly excited skiing crowd.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The new snow would only last so long. With the
temperature firmly stuck at a balmy “above zero” figure, even as we set off,
the trees were beginning to shed lumps of wet snow on our heads.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9NmGJrLBNOY/WNfXO690NNI/AAAAAAAADSw/vVUEmxiyBcka2GFLKqry6-gAAcclO-SrACPcB/s1600/20170301_094404.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9NmGJrLBNOY/WNfXO690NNI/AAAAAAAADSw/vVUEmxiyBcka2GFLKqry6-gAAcclO-SrACPcB/s640/20170301_094404.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bad Hofgastein in the snow</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">The first part of our plan was to walk from the town
centre up the east side of the valley, making our way via paths and minor roads
to a vantage point over the town from where great views were to be had.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5QSQo-W8ZnQ/WNlBDIKQGeI/AAAAAAAADU0/dNcmSzX8GEENzUGW-kKiKGYqv8TxELjyQCPcB/s1600/20170301_094720.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5QSQo-W8ZnQ/WNlBDIKQGeI/AAAAAAAADU0/dNcmSzX8GEENzUGW-kKiKGYqv8TxELjyQCPcB/s640/20170301_094720.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the path towards the Cafe Sonnberg </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">On reaching the road, we turned south and followed it
to an old water-driven flour mill and nearby communal oven. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XnsT6OR5FkA/WL2H3PCldjI/AAAAAAAADPI/elwWhV9l5fAY70aYopNEQCCUmGaOGkpQgCPcB/s1600/P3010066.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XnsT6OR5FkA/WL2H3PCldjI/AAAAAAAADPI/elwWhV9l5fAY70aYopNEQCCUmGaOGkpQgCPcB/s400/P3010066.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What appeared to be a communal oven</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Although we could
only see inside through the gaps in the wooden walls, it gave a good insight
into how the mill operated using variable water flow to adjust the speed of the
wheel.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7yQSsVwreWg/WNlBDEwLE5I/AAAAAAAADU0/X-C-EYS8AckYpPTLHl2vnuFaCp0owaAwwCPcB/s1600/20170301_101312.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7yQSsVwreWg/WNlBDEwLE5I/AAAAAAAADU0/X-C-EYS8AckYpPTLHl2vnuFaCp0owaAwwCPcB/s400/20170301_101312.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rauchberg Muhle</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4ZcAyPsWKmA/WNlBDMUdWjI/AAAAAAAADU0/RmJsb5pkSOsRc0VboSRxNPb0DQGUEbDhwCPcB/s1600/20170301_101957.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4ZcAyPsWKmA/WNlBDMUdWjI/AAAAAAAADU0/RmJsb5pkSOsRc0VboSRxNPb0DQGUEbDhwCPcB/s400/20170301_101957.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Useless, old millstone, plus the thing <br />that used to turn the wheat into flour</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JNW5zM8UaMY/WNlBDJGfHjI/AAAAAAAADU0/DJfvNN5Ulb45o9Dk3VWuL3DXzRXwcm_VACPcB/s1600/20170301_102101.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JNW5zM8UaMY/WNlBDJGfHjI/AAAAAAAADU0/DJfvNN5Ulb45o9Dk3VWuL3DXzRXwcm_VACPcB/s400/20170301_102101.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The waterwheel speed could be adjusted <br />by how much water was directed to it</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">The road beyond the mill was closed. Had we been able
to continue, we could have joined the Gasteiner Hohenweg that runs to Bad
Gastein. So we turned back, retracing our steps to the Café Sonnberg and
following the road upwards.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Beyond the Annencafe, the road was again closed, so we
decided to pop in for a coffee before making our way down to Bad Hofgastein
again on largely the same paths as before.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ytOV58YiT6A/WL2H3Ipl5lI/AAAAAAAADPI/UeI41qJtZdc8NAgMRKahAW_7dMfNu2GPgCPcB/s1600/P3010068.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ytOV58YiT6A/WL2H3Ipl5lI/AAAAAAAADPI/UeI41qJtZdc8NAgMRKahAW_7dMfNu2GPgCPcB/s400/P3010068.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading back down into town, with sunshine breaking through</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">The clock struck midday as we reached level ground
again and sauntered through the streets on the north side of town. A quick stop
for lunch things at the Hofer supermarket (Aldi equivalent in Austria) proved
interesting, then we walked on to cut through some houses and eventually pick
up the riverside path.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">We stopped for a quick bite. Our current sandwich of
choice is cheese and ham, the choice of cheese this time being some of the most
>ahem< “robust” we had ever bought! We had to consign the remainder to outside
on the balcony.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixwHMcuGkrFFZ65r-q2jIJ8JwcvDsuCiMElC88WQvOzhvnaD1gL0uTbKwT34gOJkFJAyYIh8mom93l34nJEuwvq_wD-aetSfDexdLCIoDhWXDTNK7ZHCJuMcD09CajbToao7F52qbl-_I/s1600/P3010070.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixwHMcuGkrFFZ65r-q2jIJ8JwcvDsuCiMElC88WQvOzhvnaD1gL0uTbKwT34gOJkFJAyYIh8mom93l34nJEuwvq_wD-aetSfDexdLCIoDhWXDTNK7ZHCJuMcD09CajbToao7F52qbl-_I/s400/P3010070.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the second lunch stop in Weiden</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">However, even it couldn’t deter the cold wind that had
decided to scythe through the valley at that particular moment, so we hurried
on. Doubling back on ourselves, we turned for home through the small village of
Wieden, where we stopped for the rest of our lunch – this time, in warm sunshine.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cq2BGvYLaBo/WL2H3DDZA-I/AAAAAAAADPI/tb6ax90KLjoihW2Y_fM-E481xiPoUllYwCPcB/s1600/P3010072.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cq2BGvYLaBo/WL2H3DDZA-I/AAAAAAAADPI/tb6ax90KLjoihW2Y_fM-E481xiPoUllYwCPcB/s400/P3010072.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crossing the Gasteiner Ache on the way back into town</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">It was then just a half hour or so back to the hotel,
taking a slightly roundabout way through town on the way, before settling in
for our evening routine.</span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
Julian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8924560762707341331.post-33175415091029268302017-03-30T11:24:00.000-07:002017-03-30T11:24:56.324-07:00Bad For Good: Part 1<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">By late February, Christmas is something of a distant
memory – or at least it should be. But if you are anything like us then there may
well be some unwelcome reminders of the festivities still lingering – namely,
those few extra pounds that the best-of-resolutions has resolutely failed to
shift. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">And although spring is not far away, the short days
and long nights, grey skies and cold make it appear a very long way off. It can
be hard to get motivated to even go outside, let alone walk for hours, when
it’s pouring with rain or sleeting horizontally, so a break from such seasonal
blues is really welcome. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;">In recent years, we have taken to having a winter
holiday in the Alps. Pick the right time, and there are some quite good deals
to be had on skiing packages.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JarRrEi7mR4/WL2H3NDY99I/AAAAAAAADPI/qnZAtHtQUGEmbplZx0dscq_n6alW_8--gCPcB/s1600/P3010061.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JarRrEi7mR4/WL2H3NDY99I/AAAAAAAADPI/qnZAtHtQUGEmbplZx0dscq_n6alW_8--gCPcB/s400/P3010061.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bad Hofgastein</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;">Not that we have any real intention of skiing, mind.
It’s just that we get a base in the mountains for a week and a chance to walk,
relax, catch up on reading, enjoy some local hospitality and re-charge the
batteries for a while – something of a detox prior to the busier spring and
summer months, and a chance to boost fitness again.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;">This year we plumped for Bad Hofgastein, a small town
in the Gastein valley that lies roughly due south of Salzburg. It’s quite a
well-known skiing area, and there are some good summer paths in the area such
as sections of the Salzburger Almenweg and excursions to the adjacent summits.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We had barely crossed the threshold of our chosen
accommodation before being asked if we would mind swapping to another hotel –
they had overbooked. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">“It’s nice”, they said, “a bigger room, with a
south-facing balcony”.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">“A free upgrade”, we thought? Oh, go on, then …..<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QAivp7qoUvg/WL2H3EgWbxI/AAAAAAAADPI/yUeYhogWBsMrtnF5hhno3GIVTANaZ9nRgCPcB/s1600/P2260015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QAivp7qoUvg/WL2H3EgWbxI/AAAAAAAADPI/yUeYhogWBsMrtnF5hhno3GIVTANaZ9nRgCPcB/s400/P2260015.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hotel Das Gastein, Bad Hofgastein</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;">Das Gastein is indeed a nice hotel. Having settled in
briefly, we went for a quick orientation tour of the town, picking up lunches,
maps and timetables as we went – all we needed, in fact, for the next day’s
walk. It was a warm, sunny afternoon – great for relaxing, and a good omen, we
hoped as we pored over the maps, for the week to come.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Day 1 – Bad Hofgastein to Angertal skistation
and on to Bad Gastein<o:p></o:p></span></u></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">10.50 miles<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">After a gloriously sunny afternoon yesterday, Sunday
morning dawned under a swathe of cloud. Setting off just before 9.00am, we
briefly followed the river before setting off across the valley and climbing
the hillside towards Angertal.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6qWlQSWpQrw/WL2H3DYb7cI/AAAAAAAADPI/39-nh1kET2kDTUh6NVQh3YCNMiTftsf_ACPcB/s1600/P2260016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6qWlQSWpQrw/WL2H3DYb7cI/AAAAAAAADPI/39-nh1kET2kDTUh6NVQh3YCNMiTftsf_ACPcB/s400/P2260016.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Weitmoser Schlossl, Hundsdorf</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;">Our aim had been to follow one of the marked winter
walking paths described in the leaflet we had collected yesterday. But due to
the lack of snow, more paths were available than expected, and we ended up on
clear, well-signed but wrong paths out of Hundsdorf.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xTGczdF92z4/WL2H3O1Zv7I/AAAAAAAADPI/bAzXaEMMG0ENUSzNaAH-9rvN3PJzG1BZQCPcB/s1600/P2260017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xTGczdF92z4/WL2H3O1Zv7I/AAAAAAAADPI/bAzXaEMMG0ENUSzNaAH-9rvN3PJzG1BZQCPcB/s400/P2260017.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A plethora of paths, but are we on the right one?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;">In the words of The Waterboys, we went “too high, too
far, too soon”. No matter, though: traversing the hillside, we worked our way
into the Angertal, spying a Greater Spotted Woodpecker and a flock of Greenfinches
as we did so.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y98MFUbwYhA/WL2H3MyptsI/AAAAAAAADPI/4L5EZ_bZ4VUiq1tnGohdjgxkxeuRxwSIACPcB/s1600/P2260019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y98MFUbwYhA/WL2H3MyptsI/AAAAAAAADPI/4L5EZ_bZ4VUiq1tnGohdjgxkxeuRxwSIACPcB/s400/P2260019.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back to Bad Hofgastein</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;">Once the gradient had lessened, the going was easy,
and it wasn’t too long before we hit the road on the way in to the Skizentrum
Angertal, a hub for downhillers in this high valley, surrounded by a cluster of
2000 meter peaks.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The ski station is typical of its kind – busy, with impersonal
canteen-style service and lots of stiff-booted skiers clumping around. We
stopped for drinks and contemplated our next move.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9t8sk_laRoU/WNfXO2mhYDI/AAAAAAAADSw/mEroAhQgjnUY0Oq3fWAyZk-SXeUV3yNYgCPcB/s1600/20170226_113535.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9t8sk_laRoU/WNfXO2mhYDI/AAAAAAAADSw/mEroAhQgjnUY0Oq3fWAyZk-SXeUV3yNYgCPcB/s400/20170226_113535.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drinks at the Skizentrum Angertal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;">The instructions in the winter walking leaflet were
scant but apparently clear: follow the ski run before turning for Hartlgut.
However, we soon found out that didn’t mean the ski run with all the skiers
coming down it. No, it meant the other ski run – the one with no skiers. Or ski
tracks ....</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Not to worry. Having been angered in Angertal for a
while, we back-tracked a little way and finally intuited the right route.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-APl59RdQYJA/WL2H3Hk5duI/AAAAAAAADPI/oSMr9clfOBwc_bG8AGImmjlLzqsy3T_EACPcB/s1600/P2260020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-APl59RdQYJA/WL2H3Hk5duI/AAAAAAAADPI/oSMr9clfOBwc_bG8AGImmjlLzqsy3T_EACPcB/s400/P2260020.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A quiet place for lunch in the woods</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;">Shortly afterwards, we found a handy bench for our
lunch. Sitting in the quiet of the woods, away from other folks and suitably
replete, suddenly all was well with the world again.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-prxe0a-qrdQ/WL2H3Bnn5dI/AAAAAAAADPI/XIvIfEcKc60InR1F9Ff2z_8WO1tPqDD-QCPcB/s1600/P2260022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-prxe0a-qrdQ/WL2H3Bnn5dI/AAAAAAAADPI/XIvIfEcKc60InR1F9Ff2z_8WO1tPqDD-QCPcB/s400/P2260022.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Erzherzog-Johann-Promenade</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FiNNtcwxhMk/WL2H3MxwfWI/AAAAAAAADPI/_BvWBncyh-UW-RRbU1Y00k5BqI1ZeLEigCPcB/s1600/P2260023.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FiNNtcwxhMk/WL2H3MxwfWI/AAAAAAAADPI/_BvWBncyh-UW-RRbU1Y00k5BqI1ZeLEigCPcB/s400/P2260023.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Icicles!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;">Continuing downhill, we reached the Jausenstation
Hartlgut and picked up the Erzherzog-Johann-Promenade, a contour path that led towards
Bad Gastein with some nice glimpses across the valley. After another brief stop
for food and drink, we made a final short descent into the town and caught the
bus back to Bad Hofgastein.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LrCJVs9fyc0/WL2H3BzmT-I/AAAAAAAADPI/7lppmlZICLMhmMx_IE7cHSrvjvuT0jfPgCPcB/s1600/P2260024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LrCJVs9fyc0/WL2H3BzmT-I/AAAAAAAADPI/7lppmlZICLMhmMx_IE7cHSrvjvuT0jfPgCPcB/s400/P2260024.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Main street, Bad Gastein</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;">It wasn’t late – only mid-afternoon, in fact – but part
of our holiday plan was to have some time for rest and relaxation, something we
both desperately needed. As well as all the usual early-year stuff to contend
with, such as a busy work schedule for each of us, we’d sadly lost my father in
January.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">In what would become our regular afternoon and evening
schedule, we read, relaxed, played Scrabble and went for dinner, then took a
short stroll round town afterwards to help the meal settle. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jA_zOjR7Pak/WL2H3Dn6H7I/AAAAAAAADPI/Txkp4rD7l2s5yoirdIod2eKWDLXGGJtwQCPcB/s1600/P2260026.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jA_zOjR7Pak/WL2H3Dn6H7I/AAAAAAAADPI/Txkp4rD7l2s5yoirdIod2eKWDLXGGJtwQCPcB/s400/P2260026.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Floodlit curling</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Day 2 – Bad Hofgastein to
Klammstein</span></u></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">10.50 miles<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">After the nice but slightly off-piste route of
yesterday, we decided to tackle something a bit more straightforward today. The
skies were a bit clearer, the cloud a shade higher, and the weather promised well, but all we
wanted a simple route that was easy to find and obvious to follow, with a re-invigorating source of cake at the half-way point.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">So, we set off through town on the riverside path, heading north beside the Gasteiner Ache, essentially just following the valley. Beyond the town, we crossed the main road and continued past the villages of Wieden and Breitenburg on the riverside path. A dipper, defending its territory, chuntered at us as we walked past, but otherwise it was quiet and peaceful as the sun renewed its effort to break through the cloud.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0k21fdxokXI/WL2H3FKLhmI/AAAAAAAADPI/ULvOVBgCTcYvMrDkguhrX_EFiys1u8LYgCPcB/s1600/P2270027.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0k21fdxokXI/WL2H3FKLhmI/AAAAAAAADPI/ULvOVBgCTcYvMrDkguhrX_EFiys1u8LYgCPcB/s400/P2270027.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back towards the town and the head of the valley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;">Re-crossing the main road, we then picked up what must
have been the old road through the valley, following beside the main route but
much quieter and far less busy. This was gentle walking on clear paths, tracks,
lanes and cycle routes – all free of snow at these lower levels. Bad Hofgastein
stands at approx. 850m above sea level, so for much of the winter can expect
snowy conditions down in the valley. Not this week, though: snow was confined
to higher altitudes.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jc86NYjayrQ/WL2H3OQIC3I/AAAAAAAADPI/AQIPaMKk_vQgWW8ftIObUIsGr6eCiDKSwCPcB/s1600/P2270030.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jc86NYjayrQ/WL2H3OQIC3I/AAAAAAAADPI/AQIPaMKk_vQgWW8ftIObUIsGr6eCiDKSwCPcB/s400/P2270030.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reedy pond and nature reserve</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;">We stopped briefly to look inside a small chapel in
Harbach, then carried on towards Dorfgastein. As we approached the town there
was a short nature trail explaining the geology and natural history of the area,
and we sat beside a reedy pond for a quick coffee stop.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PXrY0zerFiY/WL2H3OysfmI/AAAAAAAADPI/U2qhmX1Xcy0ycl8P1nwUAFha_iQlZC-FgCPcB/s1600/P2270032.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PXrY0zerFiY/WL2H3OysfmI/AAAAAAAADPI/U2qhmX1Xcy0ycl8P1nwUAFha_iQlZC-FgCPcB/s400/P2270032.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Skies brightening</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ajCXSLXJpoQ/WL2H3L6E_8I/AAAAAAAADPI/nKSMK8Gqh_oeAY4MbHWzDF5UmljoJTwcgCPcB/s1600/P2270034.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ajCXSLXJpoQ/WL2H3L6E_8I/AAAAAAAADPI/nKSMK8Gqh_oeAY4MbHWzDF5UmljoJTwcgCPcB/s400/P2270034.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Insect hotel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;">By the time we reached Dorfgastein, we were getting a
bit peckish. The town is a nice little place, smaller and less cosmopolitan
than the other two towns, with some older buildings on display.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We pottered along the main street until we found the
Information centre. Next door, a bakery tempted us inside for kaffe und kuchen
(apricot pasty and a blueberry slice) which was a bit unnecessary but very
nice!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Moving on, we followed a back road on the west side of
the valley towards Klammstein. As with this morning’s walk, the paths and
countryside were nothing special, but it was enough to just be outside in the
fresh air, clearing the mind and getting a bit of exercise.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4lAHJ8XIxuva_uB2fRNKKXbZi3Ufoum9ioiRDdxNsiJoWHBvJzexG-xVhXoC44FliRrR4xMwo6oh3GvssTWRILUJeYFzdDR016MJOC9rkgDmQ5pv8SWkrXfDWT-5K98XTiaz5KvyW2L8/s1600/P2270035.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4lAHJ8XIxuva_uB2fRNKKXbZi3Ufoum9ioiRDdxNsiJoWHBvJzexG-xVhXoC44FliRrR4xMwo6oh3GvssTWRILUJeYFzdDR016MJOC9rkgDmQ5pv8SWkrXfDWT-5K98XTiaz5KvyW2L8/s400/P2270035.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Klammstein gorge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;">Approaching Klammstein, we could see the castle on its
steep-sided rocky promontory. The valley here is very narrow and gorge-like,
and the castle located thus to guard access to it. It certainly commanded a
great view, and would have been easy to defend against unwanted invaders. The
castle is open on some days and houses a museum, but was closed today –
unwanted invaders now kept at bay by locked gates and entry fees.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;">Having passed beneath the castle – quite literally, by
foot tunnel – we called it a day for walking and caught the 13.52 bus back to
Bad Hofgastein in time for another afternoon and evening of R&R.</span></div>
Julian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8924560762707341331.post-17043210571387306502017-02-20T00:06:00.000-08:002017-02-20T00:09:57.466-08:00A Capital Idea - Part 3: Hackney Wick to Falconwood<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Early February presented us with the
opportunity for another London-based weekend. As far as the Sunday went, we had
made arrangements to visit the Destinations travel show at Olympia, to meet
with friends and divine inspiration for future trips. A quick count-back
revealed it was 16 years since we had last attended such a show, so maybe it
was time for another visit.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Anyway, that left a full day on the Saturday to
continue with our Capital Ring project, picking up from Hackney Wick where we
left off last time, round east London, to the Shooters Hill area on the south
side of the Thames. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">After our now-traditional early train journey
into the capital, we arrived at Hackney Wick at about 9.30am. Overnight rain had
ceased, but the ground was still wet and I managed to drop the route
information sheets into a puddle before we’d even left the station.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2ybplKHd5bbeIeWAc4dmXa8g6wUdVaauUlYRs4ajxH8N_YA0Jq_-K0IC8ZwGdsJisCpgjfIy9ZogTMnK-WEUXSIDx9ZYgYtUwComPu7VigCDiWRzhtC3abOVO4Bkck2iGeDV9Y0jKIyA/s1600/20170204_093941.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2ybplKHd5bbeIeWAc4dmXa8g6wUdVaauUlYRs4ajxH8N_YA0Jq_-K0IC8ZwGdsJisCpgjfIy9ZogTMnK-WEUXSIDx9ZYgYtUwComPu7VigCDiWRzhtC3abOVO4Bkck2iGeDV9Y0jKIyA/s400/20170204_093941.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A work in progress ......</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1A9IaG98QgPnWtwhxj64IaUtjYG-RZmaziuerV8k7R9U2p6CHB3RNnAJlsHE8kvBzo-2Qtoig_fIoItw_mFEhcoX0Y5yGgTAfNd0sz6r6-K7HxhFCj9aR-HgE0k0TOtrV8fFphRROOBs/s1600/20170204_094103.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1A9IaG98QgPnWtwhxj64IaUtjYG-RZmaziuerV8k7R9U2p6CHB3RNnAJlsHE8kvBzo-2Qtoig_fIoItw_mFEhcoX0Y5yGgTAfNd0sz6r6-K7HxhFCj9aR-HgE0k0TOtrV8fFphRROOBs/s400/20170204_094103.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">.... and we can't disagree, except perhaps in the use of the term "decorate" </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Re-joining the Ring, we followed the Lee Navigation
for a short way, skirting round the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park (now home to
West Ham United Football Club) and The Orbit.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-JTX4fVQS9xrbxVL4etU-xa4_0C2oHeMd4W9zjuZeb_H1A-T_GoXCR2mNqgriqwKZltCJzoW54vaZpWhafvlTKqDgUn2y_qYANw1v8t_5TAygl5lNqqAxNewZPAViAcCr92wYbzM3BwI/s1600/20170204_094446.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-JTX4fVQS9xrbxVL4etU-xa4_0C2oHeMd4W9zjuZeb_H1A-T_GoXCR2mNqgriqwKZltCJzoW54vaZpWhafvlTKqDgUn2y_qYANw1v8t_5TAygl5lNqqAxNewZPAViAcCr92wYbzM3BwI/s400/20170204_094446.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lee Navigation and Olympic Stadium</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJGZWwQwRcUhKoOM1rI1ubZU622apRkTv8IP-O30bXap3c-DEHo75440lQSBkchUYZ0Lxsqvn20jDLW8K2OC-otWKUIXUx2YH0YMahHNp4G_L7mBUi-3ND_po8ghzk9lq9qUMgxWmjLWw/s1600/20170204_095442.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJGZWwQwRcUhKoOM1rI1ubZU622apRkTv8IP-O30bXap3c-DEHo75440lQSBkchUYZ0Lxsqvn20jDLW8K2OC-otWKUIXUx2YH0YMahHNp4G_L7mBUi-3ND_po8ghzk9lq9qUMgxWmjLWw/s400/20170204_095442.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Information board showing the intricate network of waterways here</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">The Orbit is an unusual creation. At 114.5m
tall, it claims to be Britain’s largest public sculpture, designed by Turner Prize-winner
Anish Kapoor in response to London Mayor Boris Johnson’s request for “something
special” for the Olympic Park. According to Wikipedia this radical combination
of architecture, sculpture and structural engineering was the unanimous choice
of the advisory panel, and has been both praised and criticised. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaQ0YbYGbgfHLiJRNrffvMKjGAcbZxHVr4GVAjZ7omZhDu3oMmnDuPUXZgf3qdFfPHi0IRuCyTej8dMDCLwjX0r9vs6sUD75WOQsHTQP9wQ-IG6xlBlVvOd2bTVE6IfmkTHcuwkwfSWIc/s1600/20170204_100127.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaQ0YbYGbgfHLiJRNrffvMKjGAcbZxHVr4GVAjZ7omZhDu3oMmnDuPUXZgf3qdFfPHi0IRuCyTej8dMDCLwjX0r9vs6sUD75WOQsHTQP9wQ-IG6xlBlVvOd2bTVE6IfmkTHcuwkwfSWIc/s400/20170204_100127.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Orbit: daring sculpture project or <br />
waste of £22.7 million? You decide.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">We picked up the Greenway, a 6-mile-long
pathway that runs on top of the Northern Outfall Sewage Embankment, part of the
sewage system designed by Joseph Bazalgette in the 1860s. The occasional whiff
acted as a reminder of the path’s origins.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">After negotiating a diversion more by intuition
than adequate signage, we crossed the Prime Meridian into the eastern
hemisphere and sat on a wet bench for a brief break. The dull of the morning
began to lift and hints of sunshine tried to break through, and although this
may not be the prettiest section of the Ring, there is much of interest to see
and we had enjoyed the walk so far.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigwUM0hnEIkNDceFJIAn7mpXYp86sa25e_SVW8kw8vfie7YPVxS7g76R-sjZHZAh-vd2pieNwZArTUQsrwhovoAWcYIWFRhpNLtfQRLFJ_PlcemrHsmzT1Jb0Jsq88ekI-ef64Q9aqrxE/s1600/20170204_113114.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigwUM0hnEIkNDceFJIAn7mpXYp86sa25e_SVW8kw8vfie7YPVxS7g76R-sjZHZAh-vd2pieNwZArTUQsrwhovoAWcYIWFRhpNLtfQRLFJ_PlcemrHsmzT1Jb0Jsq88ekI-ef64Q9aqrxE/s400/20170204_113114.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beckton Alps, look it says so on the road sign, with high-point on the horizon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Leaving the Greenway, the scenery began to
change as we traversed the foothills of the Beckton Alps and descended into
Beckton District Park, where this section of the Capital Ring finished. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Beyond the parks, we cut through houses to
emerge by the DLR stop at Cyprus, and took a bee-line through the modern-seeming
campus of the University of East London to reach the Royal Albert Dock, with
the busy City Airport beyond.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtM4LE-K-SuJ6447nd-jwiRRUlVnkTGdfv_oENNoC57kpWf6bnW959ibp4rX3nABVc_6Qh-zK7NUTZPhVoCzP4ZBWw3TEn1R32NgY_qYVol_jfLsX4iwPpniJhPmEnGrFfraoiqLs0MYc/s1600/20170204_122400.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtM4LE-K-SuJ6447nd-jwiRRUlVnkTGdfv_oENNoC57kpWf6bnW959ibp4rX3nABVc_6Qh-zK7NUTZPhVoCzP4ZBWw3TEn1R32NgY_qYVol_jfLsX4iwPpniJhPmEnGrFfraoiqLs0MYc/s400/20170204_122400.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">University of East London, Royal Albert Dock & City Airport</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">We walked beside the Dock, now used as an international
rowing course, past the Sir Steve Redgrave Bridge, over Gallions Roundabout and
on to Atlantis Avenue, and reached the Thames – the first time we have seen the
river since leaving Richmond.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFbmeS5WZl0a3fjMOpFcs7hv0T-abjWtXSw0oxU_yE5uJdkXyh_pb784DwwgeTQ95JdkUku83RZnMAZr2SpvA2WKQ_z4xw4RabN5Ip6h_cu5Y20rJPLuqjtmn711_8aT7SEAe8Y6VcH9s/s1600/20170204_125332.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFbmeS5WZl0a3fjMOpFcs7hv0T-abjWtXSw0oxU_yE5uJdkXyh_pb784DwwgeTQ95JdkUku83RZnMAZr2SpvA2WKQ_z4xw4RabN5Ip6h_cu5Y20rJPLuqjtmn711_8aT7SEAe8Y6VcH9s/s400/20170204_125332.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sound political advice on offer</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKqOuOMrBbt3MEAoXAbEzSYB2JLlMPUfvustpekZmRVmGCqjYHo7sJ5m2EkT0OyDdwoK6birHTHvs456ReBewxp6SeI5d4CemqtBJI-OMQQPOgjpqgG3wIPa3Q8m9EioI_HqTwyUqZJto/s1600/20170204_125559.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKqOuOMrBbt3MEAoXAbEzSYB2JLlMPUfvustpekZmRVmGCqjYHo7sJ5m2EkT0OyDdwoK6birHTHvs456ReBewxp6SeI5d4CemqtBJI-OMQQPOgjpqgG3wIPa3Q8m9EioI_HqTwyUqZJto/s400/20170204_125559.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This urban fox was out in the <br />
daytime and completely at ease <br />
with our being so close</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Carrying on beside the river, we crossed a
couple of sets of lock gates (originally controlling access to the Royal Albert
and King George V Docks) and stopped for a brief lunch break on some handy
benches.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiA9NdlslE7ffOzu572MEMQw5hd4zCQki2Hxe515yK3rEHg6Ltz9CrGDzBCCa5oFONK55maxApiBnWbHtERuww3sQ6IZrmEGSXzRKdDh7Gg7vVb0kmqsIJ_7S-jMsbJe0wyTP-R2Wj5MI/s1600/20170204_130043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiA9NdlslE7ffOzu572MEMQw5hd4zCQki2Hxe515yK3rEHg6Ltz9CrGDzBCCa5oFONK55maxApiBnWbHtERuww3sQ6IZrmEGSXzRKdDh7Gg7vVb0kmqsIJ_7S-jMsbJe0wyTP-R2Wj5MI/s400/20170204_130043.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking into the King George V lock</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhwfoD70gRXG_Sd_M_vKwL7RLcUDamfDdwyFJRIy_lr1vOMNmmoKeICIvgxSAb3w4Ppa5LZrrB59zzXaZnY4jv4RnyQoc4-mfDRMruBb7dDxOmpJypYQaR-vZ9wCh8NK85auIDfMVL4U0/s1600/20170204_134415.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhwfoD70gRXG_Sd_M_vKwL7RLcUDamfDdwyFJRIy_lr1vOMNmmoKeICIvgxSAb3w4Ppa5LZrrB59zzXaZnY4jv4RnyQoc4-mfDRMruBb7dDxOmpJypYQaR-vZ9wCh8NK85auIDfMVL4U0/s400/20170204_134415.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Woolwich Ferry</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">As we continued towards the Woolwich Ferry, we
fell in with a couple of other walkers who turned out to be Jeremy and Diana
from the Week Walks website, a site dedicated to linear walks both in the UK
and Europe, and whose enjoyment of longer, linear routes matches our own. Their
site is full of lots of inspiration for multi-day hikes:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><a href="http://www.weekwalks.co.uk/">www.weekwalks.co.uk</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Section 15 of the Capital Ring ends here – in fact,
this is the official end of the route if the walk is attempted sequentially. To connect to the next section, section 1, walkers can either take the Woolwich Ferry as a foot passenger or, more excitingly we think, actually walk beneath the Thames.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaUESZRxXG74OPilT2UEReIQx89U8_ne4ETEapFyf98PK2lMx_C90dBc230d_KSCfsdW9olOAwG7pbnSXRWdrg5PBvi91ARNXAQl9Y0kvTnDIK3m8i_OtYA6rAeEaq7octgausRhYYIEU/s1600/20170204_134702.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaUESZRxXG74OPilT2UEReIQx89U8_ne4ETEapFyf98PK2lMx_C90dBc230d_KSCfsdW9olOAwG7pbnSXRWdrg5PBvi91ARNXAQl9Y0kvTnDIK3m8i_OtYA6rAeEaq7octgausRhYYIEU/s400/20170204_134702.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entrance to the Woolwich Foot Tunnel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">I must confess, when I first read about the Woolwich Foot Tunnel I
imagined something dark and dank and much more akin to Bazalgette’s sewers than
the clean, well-lit, underground-like tunnel that we found, the most
disconcerting part of which being the faint dizziness caused by negotiating the 100+
circular steps up and down. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfzz9JozDdZgm_gohd2X8d7DeZc2VEMFWnP8agVlrl7tipSEMIqUlUu-WoZJNkSmiQCjRzOMJYd0TXmXHbZh9IThF0IP_wWa2ZjYnhvS79jDqKlb8LDK-Aw-iBv6z3_bzvE9iBlrVJucs/s1600/20170204_135502.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfzz9JozDdZgm_gohd2X8d7DeZc2VEMFWnP8agVlrl7tipSEMIqUlUu-WoZJNkSmiQCjRzOMJYd0TXmXHbZh9IThF0IP_wWa2ZjYnhvS79jDqKlb8LDK-Aw-iBv6z3_bzvE9iBlrVJucs/s400/20170204_135502.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Path beneath the Thames</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Having safely reached the other side, we bade farewell to Jeremy and
Diana and continued on our way. Immediately, we noticed two differences from
the north side of the river – fewer signposts, several of which seemed to be incorrectly
aligned, and reduced information in the route notes. The problem, I think, is
that the Thames Path and a couple of other routes take precedence here, with
Capital Ring signage demoted as a result.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5YPy1QOuCfAwgtrmmVDjbD7qdcAor-wbVPQnpO_ER4-yB3VNrfC0kYHOPvGp6sKxw1NjL5PKL3aBWthKMAChu9N0P2S3V_Zf6PCzymVW8ckcMDc2ozKhQCiKqfZ58Ekt1qQsgRakdJ1g/s1600/20170204_142032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5YPy1QOuCfAwgtrmmVDjbD7qdcAor-wbVPQnpO_ER4-yB3VNrfC0kYHOPvGp6sKxw1NjL5PKL3aBWthKMAChu9N0P2S3V_Zf6PCzymVW8ckcMDc2ozKhQCiKqfZ58Ekt1qQsgRakdJ1g/s400/20170204_142032.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thames Barrier</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuzm5INMCTIkATbJksVAPO5tUsuzIvbQ5-mhfIP7IcgNfIuQ62sHhbUv89qZnrlNAaBYV9VmeKXKY55xR8ibzbra27nZGZOxkNMLyuHoE1uSPTX9yygyeP-hrHXnU-vdZ0nNOXeabTdhk/s1600/20170204_142117.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuzm5INMCTIkATbJksVAPO5tUsuzIvbQ5-mhfIP7IcgNfIuQ62sHhbUv89qZnrlNAaBYV9VmeKXKY55xR8ibzbra27nZGZOxkNMLyuHoE1uSPTX9yygyeP-hrHXnU-vdZ0nNOXeabTdhk/s400/20170204_142117.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Barrier viewpoint - playing "Titanic" optional</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">However, the weather seemed brighter, so once back on track we followed beside the river for a few minutes to a
viewpoint over the river and the Thames Barrier. A slightly confusing course
through housing, industrial estate and main road brought us to Maryon Park and
Maryon Wilson Park, from where, from an elevated position, we could see across
to The Valley, home of Charlton Athletic Football Club. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUrocooY1gtl4tK1-M1RiLjTc-8ZCToxiU-dO81mUUJuGBKBi7eJM8jbnh8pwOxzclLCkPPgeGeHRlFPvRnLkTyxVbuannRCZuRxSDA4HIz07EijPg2n2UT3yVXs9QMV2BpYmy0HoQG04/s1600/20170204_152745.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUrocooY1gtl4tK1-M1RiLjTc-8ZCToxiU-dO81mUUJuGBKBi7eJM8jbnh8pwOxzclLCkPPgeGeHRlFPvRnLkTyxVbuannRCZuRxSDA4HIz07EijPg2n2UT3yVXs9QMV2BpYmy0HoQG04/s400/20170204_152745.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tea with The Queen</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Although the afternoon was wearing on, we still felt good, so we stopped
in Charlton Park for tea and scones at the The Old Cottage Café, a welcome rest
that bolstered us for the final few miles. We crossed Hornfair Park and
Woolwich Common, negotiated the road junction below Shooters Hill and climbed
across Eltham Common to reach Severndroog Castle as dusk was falling.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmq7yADyaAuTZ_wPmDw24qp8ftzWTO0eNyBKo18aAQuyFEtHSbUSUdDqAXB1a2BfSQRL0teYLsjvC9GNyNhWLC-yowA1M13Uyg7xXTmdYaYljX01IzBWERXy_0I0A-r7E4pBPe3yMwRFU/s1600/20170204_162804.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmq7yADyaAuTZ_wPmDw24qp8ftzWTO0eNyBKo18aAQuyFEtHSbUSUdDqAXB1a2BfSQRL0teYLsjvC9GNyNhWLC-yowA1M13Uyg7xXTmdYaYljX01IzBWERXy_0I0A-r7E4pBPe3yMwRFU/s400/20170204_162804.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Severdroog Castle at dusk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">After descending the steps on the far side, the path led through woods
to Oxleas Meadows, then on through the trees to reach the road at Rochester Way
and the short walk to Falconwood station. We could have managed the loop
through Shepherdleas Wood too, but the sun was setting and the light fading
fast between the trees, so we will save that for next time.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">On the way back, there was plenty of time to reflect on a diverse and
enjoyable day spent on both the north and south side of the Thames, from the
urban dereliction of Hackney Wick to the forested hillsides near Falconwood,
the new of the DLR and the regeneration of East London to the history of the
Royal Albert Dock and Woolwich, with its maritime connections, dockyards, military
history and famous Royal Arsenal.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
Julian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8924560762707341331.post-21382897856811561412016-12-11T10:20:00.000-08:002016-12-11T10:20:00.094-08:00A Capital Idea – Part 2: Richmond to Hackney Wick<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Day 1: Richmond to Harrow-on-the-Hill<o:p></o:p></span></u></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">16.25 miles<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Back in the summer, we experienced a taster of
the Capital Ring – the daytime activity we coordinated to go along with an
evening performance of the ballet Swan Lake at the Royal Opera House, Covent
Garden – with a view to continuing the project over the winter months in the
same way we had with the London LOOP last year.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Now that the nights were drawing in, it was
time to tackle the walk in earnest. Once again, we made our arrangements around
another event – this time, a session at the ATP World Tennis Finals at the O2 –
but also tacked on our one last holiday day of the year to give us a good
two-and-a-half days of walking.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pEws4rrqaME/WE1nrdfa_RI/AAAAAAAADBE/PE7Z1lJ3-yUVgI3f3EMr_xJyayqVaUqTgCPcB/s1600/IMG_6637.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pEws4rrqaME/WE1nrdfa_RI/AAAAAAAADBE/PE7Z1lJ3-yUVgI3f3EMr_xJyayqVaUqTgCPcB/s400/IMG_6637.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Thames on a gloomy November morning</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">After another of the now-familiar early
Saturday morning train and tube commutes, we arrived in Richmond around 9.30am
and made our way to the riverside where we had left off before.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tCDwCCbmLkg/WE1nrbNlQgI/AAAAAAAADBE/GQNNATGeMLckftWNlOSQNpp8KBZcLy0AACPcB/s1600/IMG_6636.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tCDwCCbmLkg/WE1nrbNlQgI/AAAAAAAADBE/GQNNATGeMLckftWNlOSQNpp8KBZcLy0AACPcB/s400/IMG_6636.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back to Richmond Bridge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Setting off under leaden skies, a steady rain
accompanied us as we crossed the sluggish-looking Thames by the footbridge at
Richmond Lock. Flirting with the extremities of Isleworth, we followed the path
across the frontage of the Town Wharf pub (a different hour of a nicer day and
a drink would have been welcome) and left the riverside to enter the
Capability-Brown-landscaped grounds of Syon Park. The interior of the house,
which I don’t think you can go into, was remodelled by architect Robert Adam
(he of Adam Fireplace fame).</span><br />
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D6REK7unu4I/WE1nrTul0zI/AAAAAAAADBE/0CT7XfVHa10vmhy37liM3906Pn1iMSf9QCPcB/s1600/IMG_6640.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D6REK7unu4I/WE1nrTul0zI/AAAAAAAADBE/0CT7XfVHa10vmhy37liM3906Pn1iMSf9QCPcB/s400/IMG_6640.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brentford Lock</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Exiting the park, we crossed the road and
joined the Grand Union Canal at Brentford Lock and followed this under the M4
motorway to Osterley Lock, where Section 7 of the Ring officially ends. Strange
to think: you can walk all the way to Birmingham from here, if you’ve a mind to
do so – 140-odd miles of canal towpath, a route perhaps best undertaken in
chunks!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CVZUdqOu94s/WE1nrd28eSI/AAAAAAAADBE/TtordITFX1cc-jflL8GcFE1-HonuTiJkwCPcB/s1600/IMG_6641.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CVZUdqOu94s/WE1nrd28eSI/AAAAAAAADBE/TtordITFX1cc-jflL8GcFE1-HonuTiJkwCPcB/s400/IMG_6641.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Houseboats on the Grand Union</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Section 8 continued along the towpath, first
crossing the River Brent, then veering right to follow it at Hanwell Bottom
Lock near Ealing Hospital.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y76UWTkKcQ0/WE1nrZqZDTI/AAAAAAAADBE/L9t4nCFxqjIrXQsQmfX-jOXXxXU4Tz6CwCPcB/s1600/IMG_6643.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y76UWTkKcQ0/WE1nrZqZDTI/AAAAAAAADBE/L9t4nCFxqjIrXQsQmfX-jOXXxXU4Tz6CwCPcB/s400/IMG_6643.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Passing beneath the Wharncliffe Viaduct</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">After passing beneath the impressive
Wharncliffe Viaduct (built in 1838 by Isambard Kingdom Brunel to carry the
Great Western Railway from London to Bristol) we entered Churchfield Recreation
Ground and took advantage of the benches for an early lunch break. It was still
raining, and although our sandwiches may have got a bit soggy round the edges,
it didn’t matter – just being out on a decent walk, with nothing to worry about
for a few hours, was much more of a tonic than a wet day in Hanwell might
initially suggest.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Having passed through Brent Lodge Park, the
Brent Valley Golf Course and Perivale Park, we crossed the A40 by footbridge
and made our way towards Greenford and the end of section 8.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjP0hU3ONmY1vN70EV4X-93P9Wf1w2H7X3vlohR1-2W7IQZbGJkVj5fsq3K1gDYAbXoAy1fc7DDciSI0TvxxH54K-bzK9pwFBL58EKer4f8NpiqIM3sIttJKTpL7Kz-IdOn8CNYUHLDnY/s1600/IMG_6644.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjP0hU3ONmY1vN70EV4X-93P9Wf1w2H7X3vlohR1-2W7IQZbGJkVj5fsq3K1gDYAbXoAy1fc7DDciSI0TvxxH54K-bzK9pwFBL58EKer4f8NpiqIM3sIttJKTpL7Kz-IdOn8CNYUHLDnY/s400/IMG_6644.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crossing the A40 near Perivale</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Checking the time, we could see it was still
quite early – with a short rest break we could carry on. The Costa at Westway
Cross Shopping Park provided the opportunity, and although we looked slightly
at odds with the rest of the clientele with our rucksacks, boots and soaking
waterproofs, we took the chance to rest-up, enjoy an energising coffee and
get warm and dry. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Our new target was Harrow-on-the-Hill, still a
good 90 minutes’ walk away. For a stretch we re-joined the Grand Union Canal –
at least the Paddington Branch of it – as we passed through the Paradise Fields
Wetlands (bit of a moot distinction on a day like today – everywhere was wet
land, and the paradisal nature of the area camouflaged by mizzle).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Climbing to the summit of Horsenden Hill was
hardly an alpine outing, but it did represent the stiffest ascent of the day.
It was also the only place where we became “navigationally challenged” all
weekend, as the landmark on which the instructions were based was missing. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">After a couple of minutes’ searching, we
guessed the right path and descended into Sudbury, weaving through the streets
and past football fields before a steep-ish climb brought us out on to the road
into Harrow-on-the-Hill.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhExH9cmT8qBZBToLOLHnAnRjzCdzs639C30wpJJz8E_3xJUziip9rIhLkwu3E4W7ag6NGXopBhHmgtfyYAIvoIaRTZIONgrbT0ZvcmZUWCvQyFO1Dam_YZXOPdN05FKYubFkd9QTTiRds/s1600/IMG_6645.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhExH9cmT8qBZBToLOLHnAnRjzCdzs639C30wpJJz8E_3xJUziip9rIhLkwu3E4W7ag6NGXopBhHmgtfyYAIvoIaRTZIONgrbT0ZvcmZUWCvQyFO1Dam_YZXOPdN05FKYubFkd9QTTiRds/s400/IMG_6645.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This alleyway is named after the character in Anthony <br />Trollope's Barchester Chronicles novels</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">The light was beginning to fade as we made our
way through the village and left the Capital Ring for the day, and by the time
we reached the station it was as good as dark. It had been a long day, but a
good one – we’d covered more ground than we expected, and much of that through
pleasant parks or on waterside walks.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3gYlbp-KTsg/WE1nrY1zfjI/AAAAAAAADBE/ZozF73GlVbgabPgID4NWeiB7aZByfXtZQCPcB/s1600/IMG_6646.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3gYlbp-KTsg/WE1nrY1zfjI/AAAAAAAADBE/ZozF73GlVbgabPgID4NWeiB7aZByfXtZQCPcB/s400/IMG_6646.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beginning to get dark in Harrow-on-the-Hill</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Back in central London, we had beers and
burgers at the Exmouth Arms – a pub situated a couple of streets away from
Euston Station, and full of the after-work crowd in the week – then the
recollection of an early start had us heading to our hotel for a good nights’
sleep.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Day 2: Harrow-on-the-Hill to Hendon<o:p></o:p></span></u></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">9.00 miles<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Refreshed and raring to go, we were back in Harrow-on-the-Hill
well before 9.00am, climbing back up to the village to re-join the Capital Ring.
In contrast to yesterday, it was a bright, late-autumn morning of sunshine and
blue skies.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0x-zjeD_AF8/WE1nrWvq9MI/AAAAAAAADBE/NIqckqg3Ug4KqdjEgesO919SgXvMvsB1gCPcB/s1600/IMG_6647.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0x-zjeD_AF8/WE1nrWvq9MI/AAAAAAAADBE/NIqckqg3Ug4KqdjEgesO919SgXvMvsB1gCPcB/s400/IMG_6647.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the way back up to Harrow-on-the-Hill</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">We made our way through the village and the
grounds of Harrow School. This is where the great and the good are educated:
Winston Churchill and Lord Byron, the author Anthony Trollope and playwright Richard
Brinsley Sheridan are just a few of the successful who passed through these
hallowed halls.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwqM7eKBZssNB4IZjWnG2NxzGpmC-ytFfjYqQW-6GRh2Jh0EYz2M7hLppWrhcv9j_BU2zJRZiimFAAyScNJKW2Jsqxo3TTdx4gkc9k0byaEa68O28iif64awEfnL90OF4lvfWTCEocYuM/s1600/IMG_6648.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwqM7eKBZssNB4IZjWnG2NxzGpmC-ytFfjYqQW-6GRh2Jh0EYz2M7hLppWrhcv9j_BU2zJRZiimFAAyScNJKW2Jsqxo3TTdx4gkc9k0byaEa68O28iif64awEfnL90OF4lvfWTCEocYuM/s400/IMG_6648.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St Mary's Church</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">We picked our way between swathes of
morning-coated soon-to-be peers and future PMs. It has to be said, though, that
despite the beauty of the setting and the academic reputation of the place, the
air felt no more rarefied than elsewhere and the skies seemed no more blue.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">And the grass was definitely no greener. I may
not mix in such circles, but I’m proud of my ordinary north Midlands roots and
happy with my life, and, at the end of the day, I think that counts for a lot.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--c5kPMkA2qM/WE1nrbcpL5I/AAAAAAAADBE/5cTXGLYoqP85jDYOgghr1JkHi13SydoRACPcB/s1600/IMG_6650.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--c5kPMkA2qM/WE1nrbcpL5I/AAAAAAAADBE/5cTXGLYoqP85jDYOgghr1JkHi13SydoRACPcB/s400/IMG_6650.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Playing fields, with Harrow School in the background</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Crossing Watford Road by the only stile on the
Capital Ring (according to the guide notes) we followed the Ducker Path beside
Northwick Park Hospital and soon came to South Kenton station – the end of
Section 9.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Section 10 began with a stretch through
residential streets and parks. On this glorious autumn morning, Fryent Country
Park was throng with joggers and dog-walkers. We gradually made our way to the
top of Barn Hill, where we sat by a small pond for a coffee break. In relative
terms, Barn Hill is a notable prominence, and there are good views to be had,
for example to Wembley Stadium.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lO7novfY6mQ/WE1nrR2GETI/AAAAAAAADBE/mzIlG01GgfkVATA_3eb7dn9CJbWHHA3CgCPcB/s1600/IMG_6652.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lO7novfY6mQ/WE1nrR2GETI/AAAAAAAADBE/mzIlG01GgfkVATA_3eb7dn9CJbWHHA3CgCPcB/s400/IMG_6652.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pond at the top of Barn Hill</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">We descended through woods, then began the
gentle climb up to Gotfords Hill and more long views. After another descent and
more residential streets, we reached the Welsh Harp Reservoir, an attractive
open water area with bird life, sailing and pleasant grounds through which to
walk.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i5zxqVTJ2v8/WE1nrRcPcoI/AAAAAAAADBE/IcTj12FGQ7AEqjLpAhvkbw-1WR7rUpDkACPcB/s1600/IMG_6653.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i5zxqVTJ2v8/WE1nrRcPcoI/AAAAAAAADBE/IcTj12FGQ7AEqjLpAhvkbw-1WR7rUpDkACPcB/s400/IMG_6653.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Welsh Harp Reservoir</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">As today’s walk was a shorter one for us, our
end-of-day objective was fast approaching. Reached after crossing West Hendon
Broadway and traversing further residential streets, we arrived at Hendon Station,
the end of Section 10. We’d done well this morning, clocking up some 9 miles,
although it was certainly made easier by such a beautiful morning – some reward
for yesterdays’ soggy trudge.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Day 3: Hendon to Hackney Wick<o:p></o:p></span></u></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">15.00 miles<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">It was another overcast morning for our third
day on the Ring, but we were out and about in good time despite our attending
the ATP World Tennis finals at the O2 the evening before. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sBGjo3K7bWo/WE1nrfUilsI/AAAAAAAADBE/9lNGUN1exL4RSiuYHYK2ZcihSULzG4m6gCPcB/s1600/IMG_6654.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sBGjo3K7bWo/WE1nrfUilsI/AAAAAAAADBE/9lNGUN1exL4RSiuYHYK2ZcihSULzG4m6gCPcB/s400/IMG_6654.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Avenue of trees, Hendon Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">We set out across Hendon Park, zig-zagged
through a few residential streets, and entered Brent Park. To be honest, if you
didn’t know, you wouldn’t guess that one of Britain’s busiest roads, the North
Circular, ran only a few yards away, such is the secluded feel of the woodland.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GTfGY0umcIE/WE1nrcYvVHI/AAAAAAAADBE/EvAk6liyQA0btisNCp2Q5pP1DPP-nMrrwCPcB/s1600/IMG_6656.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GTfGY0umcIE/WE1nrcYvVHI/AAAAAAAADBE/EvAk6liyQA0btisNCp2Q5pP1DPP-nMrrwCPcB/s400/IMG_6656.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heron with Water Vole, Brent Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">The route runs beside the North Circular, beside
the River Brent and then the Mutton Brook, for a mile or so, then bears right
towards Hampstead Garden Suburb – created in the early 20</span><sup style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;">th</sup><span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> Century and
designed to offer a range of housing set amongst open spaces, pedestrian walkways
and mature trees.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCGaTiniPB7GXHRdVrtCun3uChStRJLV0yFlhjqZt6EFVhrNvc23kmG76O-U6Ypnn51x7xJCi9Rbg99U9s7PnZ77Se6vgYMl0EFYd05Gh5LkN8eM-a_XBDw8S3l2ZEurj5hNz8GOLpii8/s1600/IMG_6657.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCGaTiniPB7GXHRdVrtCun3uChStRJLV0yFlhjqZt6EFVhrNvc23kmG76O-U6Ypnn51x7xJCi9Rbg99U9s7PnZ77Se6vgYMl0EFYd05Gh5LkN8eM-a_XBDw8S3l2ZEurj5hNz8GOLpii8/s400/IMG_6657.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lyttleton Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Residential streets, Lyttleton Playing Fields,
more streets of attractive suburban houses passed. We reached East Finchley
Tube and crossed the Great North Road into Cherry Tree Wood where we stopped
for coffee and jaffa cakes and a chat with the locals.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aQ-HkNtot9c/WE1nrXfe80I/AAAAAAAADBE/XDiagH6WKwsf9354ChqwnKELqE7tWm8bQCPcB/s1600/IMG_6659.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aQ-HkNtot9c/WE1nrXfe80I/AAAAAAAADBE/XDiagH6WKwsf9354ChqwnKELqE7tWm8bQCPcB/s400/IMG_6659.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Squirrel in Cherry Tree Wood</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Moving on, we followed an undulating path
through Highgate Wood and Queen’s Wood (remnants of the ancient Middlesex
Forest) to reach Priory Gardens and the end of Section 11.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C8Jqhsd5edY/WE1nrSqCD1I/AAAAAAAADBE/M0tbPCieBVwA_2TOfY4XfvDbFRObx5D5ACPcB/s1600/IMG_6660.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C8Jqhsd5edY/WE1nrSqCD1I/AAAAAAAADBE/M0tbPCieBVwA_2TOfY4XfvDbFRObx5D5ACPcB/s400/IMG_6660.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entrance to Highgate Wood</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">A short, steep path through Highgate Spinney
began Section 12. Then, after a short stretch of main road, we reached the
Parkland Walk – London’s longest nature reserve – the bed of an old railway
line converted into a recreational space after the tracks were lifted in 1970.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l5G_rmnUnJY/WE1nrZIvklI/AAAAAAAADBE/EPQagGFy4B0RsCDkDKRlsUCZJPNZXcszQCPcB/s1600/IMG_6661.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l5G_rmnUnJY/WE1nrZIvklI/AAAAAAAADBE/EPQagGFy4B0RsCDkDKRlsUCZJPNZXcszQCPcB/s400/IMG_6661.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Parkland Walk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Navigation was easy for the next couple of
miles, the only challenge being to avoid the herds of joggers and cyclists – it’s
mid-Monday morning, don’t these people have jobs to go to?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Last time I was in Finsbury Park, Paul Weller was
playing songs from the Stanley Road album to thousands of fans on a baking-hot
afternoon in June 1996. It’s fair to say that there weren’t so many folks about
on a wet Monday in November some twenty years later, but there was a café, and after
an early breakfast and a good walk we were ready for food.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">To be honest, the Finsbury Park café is not
quite what you’d expect. It’s a lot more “locally-sourced-this” and “Fairtrade-that”
than your average park caff. Of course, there’s nothing wrong with that – you don’t
usually get grilled tomatoes on the vine with your fry up or sliced avocado in
your Cajun Chicken Burger!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Monday lunchtime saw it well-populated by yummy
Mummies and <i>au pairs</i> with children in
tow, and I learnt more about breast-feeding in public in the half-hour we were
there than I might ordinarily have anticipated. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Next, we picked up the New River Path. New
River is something of a misnomer – as a four-hundred-year-old artificial
watercourse, it is neither “new” nor a “river” – but it was a pleasant walk
that brought us out beside two artificial lakes, East Reservoir and West
Reservoir, now given over to water sports and nature, and overlooked by some
nice-looking new flats.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">After a short stretch of road walking along
Green Lane, we crossed Clissold Park and exited into Stoke Newington beside St
Mary’s Church and the old Town Hall.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ybmertxwx-0/WE1nrRa8RQI/AAAAAAAADBE/quX7zIDdlqIkHXl0wozs9ix-eahtgrbDgCPcB/s1600/IMG_6662.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ybmertxwx-0/WE1nrRa8RQI/AAAAAAAADBE/quX7zIDdlqIkHXl0wozs9ix-eahtgrbDgCPcB/s400/IMG_6662.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not much call for fountain pen repairs these days ...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">When we passed through Highgate, I had wondered
whether the route would take in Highgate Cemetery. It didn’t, but Abney Park
Cemetery was an interesting alternative: a non-denominational space containing graves
of all religions, there are many notable people buried here including William
Booth, founder of the Salvation Army. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Yy-WSMEd-3A/WE1nraT5aYI/AAAAAAAADBE/5uJxdDHiPmExKxDz7UwaYg7Uqnrorx5twCPcB/s1600/IMG_6663.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Yy-WSMEd-3A/WE1nraT5aYI/AAAAAAAADBE/5uJxdDHiPmExKxDz7UwaYg7Uqnrorx5twCPcB/s400/IMG_6663.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grave of William Booth, founder of the Salvation Army</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Leaving the cemetery, we crossed Stamford Hill
and began Section 13 of the Ring. For the first mile-or-so, the route took us
through the residential streets of one of London’s larger Jewish communities,
before bearing off into Springfield Park from where there were great views over
to the Walthamstow Marshes. A handy bench provided the chance for a break – just
the tonic needed before tackling the final few miles.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">The Lea Valley provided the conduit for those
last miles. We crossed the river by the Springfield Marina, and picked up the
riverside path heading south-east. There was a little mizzle in the air, but
the going was easy as we passed pubs and narrowboats and bridges and weirs
along the way.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-suLDw1JYs1w/WE1nrYflXlI/AAAAAAAADBE/DEzdi1AbXlw74LOuuS3BJCHcA2CkOrosQCPcB/s1600/IMG_6666.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-suLDw1JYs1w/WE1nrYflXlI/AAAAAAAADBE/DEzdi1AbXlw74LOuuS3BJCHcA2CkOrosQCPcB/s400/IMG_6666.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Springfield Marina</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Towards the end of the section, the Olympic
Park came into view, along with some of the housing and other facilities built
for the 2012 games. We won’t pass the stadium until next time, but there has
been a fair bit of regeneration of what must have been quite a run-down area.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">That regeneration hasn’t stretched to
everywhere in the vicinity, though, as the walk along White Post Lane to
Hackney Wick station proved.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Back in central London, we popped across to
Oxford Street for a spot of Christmas shopping. Talk about a change of scenery!
There was a good display of lights, but too many people for my liking. Mission
accomplished, we retired to the Exmouth Arms again for a couple of well-earned pints
before catching the train home.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">It’d been a good weekend – and good use of our
last holiday day of the year, too. We’d completed a good chunk of the Capital
Ring, which had continued to surprise and delight at regular intervals. Come
the New Year, we will be back for more.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Julian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8924560762707341331.post-44428444955896212362016-11-28T00:28:00.001-08:002017-09-28T23:56:45.007-07:00Roaming In Romania: Part 3 - Maramures<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Day 8 – Botiza to Ieud</span></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">15.15k<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">After a fairly leisurely breakfast of yogurt and
honey, bread and jam, hot milk and coffee, we set out from the pension to walk
over the hills to the main village of Botiza and on to the neighbouring village
of Ieud.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Our host Tudor led the way for the first part of the
walk. Good job too, as the route was complex – invisible paths leading to clear
tracks that were promptly left behind again – and probably only understood by
someone who had spent a lifetime wandering these hills. We reached low summits,
followed ridges and dropped into valleys, meeting shepherds and skirting
haystacks on the way. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Near Botiza, Tudor took us to a small house that
belonged to Maria's uncle until he passed away earlier in the year. Maria's mum
was there, 75 years old and still working in the fields. We had a brief
chat and a look round the house: but clearly, the loss of her brother was still
very emotional, so out of respect we didn't stay too long.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Descending into the village, we said goodbye to Tudor
and met Dan who had the lunches. We had a brief look round the village,
including a rug/fabric weavers, then set off up the hill on a lovely path
through pasture dotted with haystacks and fruit trees.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">At this time of year, there are millions of apples.
Some are for eating, but mostly they will be used for making Palinka, the
favoured way of “preserving” the abundant crop.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">On reaching the saddle, we stopped for lunch with one
of the best views you could image, a small sheepfold behind us and oodles of
silence. With great food too, it was bliss!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Unlike some of the paths we followed, the route we
were now on had recently been re-signed and clearly way marked. Apparently,
this was the work of a German man who had settled in the village and who was a
keen hiker. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">From the saddle the route took a detour from the way
Ramona knew, so we decided to follow it. It was lovely as well, contouring
round the valley under a higher summit, then following a ridge with wonderful
views all round, especially from the final summit where we were greeted with a
360 degree panorama.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Our descent into Ieud led through pasture, meadow and
wood, until a final narrow path brought us out beside one of the larger
churches. We made our way through the village, crossing the river before
meeting Dan and the van beside another small wooden UNESCO heritage church. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Originally built in 1364 it has also been
painted, but in this case directly onto
wood, not as frescos. Restoration had taken about 8 years, but the beauty was
undeniable and quite different from painted monasteries we had seen before.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Next we popped into the nearby ethnographic museum
which mainly focused on use of hemp as a fabric and also held a collection of
traditional household items.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Returning to our digs, we had another delicious meal –
White bean soup, stuffed cabbage leaves (Sarmarle) with sour cream and
raspberry and apple cakes. There was homemade hooch, too, and wine, and we
enjoyed a convivial evening with Ramona, Dan, Maria and Tudor swapping stories
and showing photos, the evening chill kept at bay by the stove and the warmth
of the hospitality.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Day 9 – Botiza to Glod and transfer to Hoteni<o:p></o:p></span></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">9.00k<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We had another superb breakfast of coffee, homemade
yoghurt, pancakes, bread, jam and honey, plus a vegetable paste called Zacusca
made from aubergines, peppers, etc, that is a bit like pizza topping (and is
another example of how to preserve an end-of-season glut of produce). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Afterwards, we said our goodbyes to Maria and Tudor
and set off up the hill behind the house under gloomy skies. We passed a few
ladies heading out into the fields - today's work seemed to be gathering
potatoes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Descending into the village of Poienile Izei, we
visited another UNESCO church: this one a small wooden example from around 1780
whose interior had not been restored and whose painted walls were black with
the accumulated grime of 230 years of candles and prayers.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Moving on, we climbed the next hill and fell in for a
while with a local chap who was keen to set us on the right path. As we walked,
conversation flowed via Ramona, and we got a brief snapshot of life at this end
of the village.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We joined a dirt road for a while then headed off
across a scrubby meadow before becoming locationally challenged in a small band
of trees. Losing the path did give us the chance to see deer and a fox, so
worthwhile in the end!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">After backtracking slightly, we descended to a gravel
road that we followed down hill and into the village of Glod (which apparently
means “mud”) where Dan was waiting with the van, arriving just before a squally
shower swept through.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We headed down the valley and made for the town of
Sighetu Marmatiei, right in the north of Romania on the border with Ukraine. We
had lunch at a nice traditional restaurant (goulash soup and potato rosti)
before having a quick look round the town centre including the market, where
sweet paprika tempted us into purchase.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Moving on, we took a side trip following the border to
see what is known as the Merry Cemetery, where the headstones are wooden and
inscribed with a short biog of the person’s life in a humorous style. Some were
self-congratulatory, some slightly acerbic (one was to a mother-in-law along
the lines of “please go quietly so as not to wake her”) but the majority were
gently comic and mostly respectful.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Returning to Sighetu, we then made for our pension in
the village of Hoteni. We had a quick wash and brush up before dinner – 4
courses, but we could choose as much or as little as we wanted, so not too
overwhelming! We had bread and Zacusca and cheese to start, then pork and
cabbage soup, grilled pork with garlic and potatoes, and chocolate cake to
finish. Pretty good! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We also had a glass or two of wine to help it all
down, and started the meal with a glass of eye-watering home-made pear brandy and
the traditional salute of “noroc!” <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Tomorrow, weather and brandy permitting, we are hoping
for a mountain walk!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Day 10 – Gutai Mountain<o:p></o:p></span></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">12.90k<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Breakfast was again ample, but today we were also
choosing our own lunch from the table so we could basically take as much as we
needed – something of a relief as we had been overfed for several consecutive
days!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">We began with a half-hour drive up to a 900m pass on the main Sighetu-Baia Mare road where Dan dropped us off, and after a couple of minutes searching behind a large pile of road gravel, we picked up a wide, clear trail through the woods.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Soon, the trees thinned and the views opened out, and
we moved into more open ground peopled by shepherds and other walkers (it being
a Saturday).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">An old road Roman road traverses the mountain, and
after a stretch of walking on the cobbled track we struck off across the grassy
slopes and took a steep, rocky path through Beech woods beside the outcrop of
the “Rooster’s Crest” to emerge on the summit where we stopped for lunch.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Gutai mountain is not particularly high in reality –
or even Romanian in terms at a shade under 1500m – but it stands well proud of
the surrounding land. The ridge looks impressive from below and is a dominant
feature on the skyline when down in the valley. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">After a break for lunch, we made our way along the
ridge on narrow paths through low, woody stemmed growth primarily of juniper
and bilberry. It’s flatter than might be expected, and takes in minor outcrops
on the way until, at the far end, a second more substantial summit is reached.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The ridge is more curved than appears from valley
level, with a dog-leg to the right after the second large outcrop towards a
group of 3 smaller tops. We followed the path towards these, skirted round the
base of each, and began to descend into the woods once again. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Once we had reached more level ground, we took a short
snack break then began the task of following the path off the mountain without
confusing our route with the many logging paths in the woods.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">A bit of checking was required here and there by
Ramona, but we made good progress and eventually reached the road where Dan
wasn't waiting with the van - he'd parked a few hundred metres further down the
road where another path crossed. No problem, though – we were soon reunited. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Heading back towards Hoteni, we called at another
village to view a house that was for sale. Nothing special, you might think,
but it was interesting nonetheless as what we saw was an authentic wooden house
of the Maramures area. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We learned a bit about house buying – apparently,
houses can be sold either as we do here – house, gardens, etc – or just as the
house alone, which can be dismantled and shipped elsewhere! In fact Ramona and
Dan bought their house in Hoteni, then dismantled it and rebuilt it in their
home town like a giant jigsaw.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Returning to our pension, we had another lovely dinner
– this time starter, soup, cabbage and sausage and a cake to finish, with
Palinka and wine – and chatted away into the evening like old friends. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Day 11 – Busteni to Breb and to the airport</span></u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">6.25k<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Today was the final day of our trip, but thanks to a
late flight home we had the morning free to make use of.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">After another lovely breakfast, we left our pension
and drove to the next village of Busteni. As it was a Sunday, what better way
to begin the day than with a visit to church – this one painted, as others have
been, but different because it is still in use as a working church. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Preparations for the morning service were well underway as we peered inside for a look round. Besides the painted decoration, beautiful fabrics hung from the walls and draped around the furniture, and the priest was making his final preparations in the calm before the service.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">In the churchyard, an elderly lady was standing over a
grave, muttering softly to herself. For a moment, we thought we had unwittingly
intruded on an intimate moment – perhaps she was remembering a lost
relative or passing on gossip to her late husband. But no: as she turned towards us, we
caught a glimpse of the mobile phone tucked beneath her headscarf, and the
illusion was shattered. Maramures, Romania in fact, is full of such
contradictions.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Walking over the fields towards Breb, the bright, sunny
morning was increasingly warm, and the mountains all round, including Gutai,
looked glorious.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">No walk in Romania is complete without a flock and the
ubiquitous sheepdogs. This time we were hidden on approach, so we waited until
we could be sure the shepherd could call them back before proceeding.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Soon, we reached the track into Breb. William Blacker,
author of Along The Enchanted Way, spent time here, and owns a house in the village.
There is also another house owned by the charity ARTTA that renovates old
traditional houses, and we got permission to look inside. There was plenty to
do to the two dwellings there, but the setting was gorgeous in the autumn
sunshine and they will no doubt be attractive guest rooms in due course.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">More time ambling between these delightful villages
would have been lovely, but our trip was almost over. Setting off from Breb, we
drove over the mountains towards the flat plains further south, stopping
briefly by a stream for lunch and again in Dej for an ice cream. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Then, almost before we knew it, we were at the
airport, and it was time to say our goodbyes to Ramona and Dan. We'd had a very
special time, helped greatly by the brilliant guides and drivers who were friendly,
fun, informative and patient with us all the way through, and who made our
visit all the more memorable.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">This trip was everything our previous Romanian outing
had promised but failed to deliver. In fact we were really smitten, and, God willing, we will return one day to experience more of the traditions, history,
culture and warm hospitality we’d been privileged to encounter this time. </span></div>
Julian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8924560762707341331.post-34700415191896366092016-11-27T05:49:00.000-08:002016-11-27T05:53:22.518-08:00Roaming In Romania: Part 2 - Bucovina<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Day 5 – Around Vatra Moldovitei<o:p></o:p></span></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">9.00k <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Today’s notes are quite short as its late and I've
been drinking Palinka, the rather flammable Hungarian fruit brandy favoured in
these parts. I've tried a few variants of this over the years – grappa, raki,
rakija, etc, and Palinka could definitely be classed as the most breath-taking
example so far encountered!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Anyway, back to the story. Our first stop was just a
two minute walk from the pension – the Moldovitei monastery. It's one of the
famous painted monasteries found in Moldavia, and has quite a history. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Founded
in about the 14</span><sup style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">th</sup><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"> Century, frescoes were added inside and out. It
eventually fell out of use as a monastery during communist times, but was
reopened as such in the 1990s. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">It’s undoubtedly interesting and very beautiful,
although controversial in that it was renovated during the late 1950's and so
displeases the purists. For the layman, though, it was wonderful to see the frescoes, depicting scenes from the bible and notable historic scenes, as they
were intended to be seen – bright, colourful and very moving, clear images
telling the bible stories and what lay in store for those who transgressed or
drank too much Palinka!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Next, we went to the Painted Egg Museum. Now, I can
tell there will be some who immediately call to mind Keswick’s noted Pencil Museum.
But before your eyes glaze over, worry not: this was another delight. Virtually
all the decorated eggs are the work of one woman, and there are several thousand
on display. The work is intricate, detailed and time consuming, and requires
much skill, patience, concentration and steadiness of hand, and they are quite
remarkable. The link below takes you to a short video:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0g-b1diyn0</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">It rained all day, so at lunchtime we popped back to
the pension to dry off a little and prepare for the afternoon. I spent time
looking at the map of Romania with Costin, getting a better feel for the
geography. The country was formed from various areas, all rich with historical
significance – Wallachia in the south (between the Danube and the Carpathians),
Transylvania to the west (North of the Carpathians, and named so by the
Hungarians, not the Romainians), and Moldavia to the north east.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">After lunch we took a steam train ride along the
valley for about an hour, to a village called (I think) Argel. We came part way
back before disembarking for a 9 kilometre hike over the hills back to
Moldovita where Gelu was waiting with the van.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">It was misty and continued to rain most of the way,
involved a steep-ish climb on a muddy track and teased us with fleeting views,
but was very enjoyable nonetheless. We talked with Costin about the state of
the milk industry and farming in general, and some of the good and bad situations
in our respective countries.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Returning to the pension, we had dinner at 7.30pm. The
first course was a full dinner-sized portion of goulash and boiled potatoes,
followed by another complete meal of forest mushrooms in cream with polenta,
followed by a large filled pancake. We were stuffed! I think our hostess thinks
we are underfed, although for the life of my rotund self I can't think why!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Day 6 - From Vatra Moldovitei to Pass (Ciumarna)<o:p></o:p></span></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">16.75k<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Today we walked from the pension on a lengthy hike to
reach a pass at (I think) Ciumarna.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We began walking at 9.30am after another prodigious
breakfast, and immediately started to lug our swollen bellies along a rising
ridge with views back to Vatra Moldovitei. It was a misty start, with rain
seemingly imminent and low cloud rising from the valleys as often happens in
mountainous areas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We hadn't gone too far when we met a Shepherd whose
dogs had come to greet us a bit over-enthusiastically – guardians of the flock
whose bite is definitely worse than their bark. He walked with us a short while
until we were moving away, and all was well.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The clouds lifted a little, but never cleared
entirely. Having finally gained some height, the next few hours were spent
navigating a sinuous route by and across a complex arrangement of ridges and
hillsides. Sometimes in woodland, sometimes across open pasture, and generally
level for the most part, the occasional ups and downs were steeper and more
prolonged than expected. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">It had all been a bit Led Zeppelin IV this morning - Black Dogs, a Misty Mountain Hop and now Four Sticks (stacks)!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">In one section of woodland, we came across a large,
clear paw-print, followed by further prints nearby. Too large for a dog, these
were wolf tracks. Actual. Wolf. Paw-prints. How about that?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">From what we could work out there were perhaps three
animals, including at least one of adult size. Other tracks running exactly in
line suggest they were tracking a deer of reasonable size. Both sets of tracks
followed the trail for some way before disappearing into the woods, so we got
to be trackers ourselves.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We knew wolves were present in these mountains, and had
hoped to see evidence. The sheer quiet of these woods made the find that bit
more likely, but took away nothing of the magic!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We were still awe-struck sometime later when we
stopped for a brief lunch. Continuing, we passed villages and hamlets, barns
and houses, all well off the beaten track.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LShrsBnMpTE/WDVSeuos_kI/AAAAAAAAC0s/yPA2KtmLZWkZJkR8MSe0-pPjsXRC677NwCPcB/s1600/IMG_6471.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LShrsBnMpTE/WDVSeuos_kI/AAAAAAAAC0s/yPA2KtmLZWkZJkR8MSe0-pPjsXRC677NwCPcB/s400/IMG_6471.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Finally, though, we could see our destination through
the trees, although the circuitous nature of the trail meant we were still about
three-quarters of an hour away. After a final few ups and downs, we climbed to
the road to meet the van, followed for those last few hundred metres by a dog
of such beseeching look we took pity and gave it a spare sandwich!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y2Ru6CfM6fY/WDVSen3GCkI/AAAAAAAAC0s/MdA1UUAvwz8ao0peEMkzk0IqCDL1ikEzgCPcB/s1600/20160920_150838.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y2Ru6CfM6fY/WDVSen3GCkI/AAAAAAAAC0s/MdA1UUAvwz8ao0peEMkzk0IqCDL1ikEzgCPcB/s400/20160920_150838.jpg" width="225" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The sign at the end of the path suggested approx 7
hours of walking time, so we were pleased with our 5.5 hours. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mrCZr1Orwrc/WDVSendiu5I/AAAAAAAAC0s/UoweRcLX-d8DzhZlawUytpwszsBqTbs2wCPcB/s1600/20160920_151215.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mrCZr1Orwrc/WDVSendiu5I/AAAAAAAAC0s/UoweRcLX-d8DzhZlawUytpwszsBqTbs2wCPcB/s400/20160920_151215.jpg" width="225" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">With time left in the day, we went to look at another
monastery – this one at Sucevita. It was similar to the one at Moldovitei in
layout and shape, but built slightly later so had different frescos and
fortifications.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7J8OULf3kDY/WDVSeh79i8I/AAAAAAAAC0s/vNMEPfU1cGIKrfdvuN_FJyHo0rWeCue_wCPcB/s1600/IMG_6483.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7J8OULf3kDY/WDVSeh79i8I/AAAAAAAAC0s/vNMEPfU1cGIKrfdvuN_FJyHo0rWeCue_wCPcB/s400/IMG_6483.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We also popped into a nearby pottery to watch vases
being made – the potter throwing pieces of consistent size, shape and design
each in about 90 seconds!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Back at the pension, we got cleaned up then went down
for dinner – a regional speciality chicken soup, followed by chicken cordon
bleu and mash (with chicken from their own flock) and a meringue and curd
cheese sponge to finish. Of course, there was loads of it, and we tucked in
while the uneaten remains of our lunch filled the table in our room.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xPbvn9EqEO0/WDVSehhRToI/AAAAAAAAC0s/OJ0_lhfDCAYkH78ZzT04_QAc8aMw6lxCACPcB/s1600/20160920_200807.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xPbvn9EqEO0/WDVSehhRToI/AAAAAAAAC0s/OJ0_lhfDCAYkH78ZzT04_QAc8aMw6lxCACPcB/s400/20160920_200807.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Also on offer was more Palinka – wicked stuff (that's wicked in the
old-fashioned, “evil” sense of the word, not the modern "excellent" definition). If you
like drinking breathtaking liquids that burn all the way down your throat, marmalise
your taste buds, set fire to your stomach and finally blow your head off,
Palinka is the stuff for you!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Still, it breaks the ice and forges friendships
through shared adversity, and we had another lovely evening conversing with our
hostess and Gelu in a broken mix of French, English, Romanian and any other
language that did the job, with Google translate on hand if all else failed. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We retired early. Tomorrow is transfer day, and we
shall be in Maramures by nightfall.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Day 7 – Transfer to Maramures</span></u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Today involved a fairly lengthy transfer from Bucovina
to Maramures, about 6 hours driving in total, and also saw us switch from
Costin and Gelu as our guide and driver to Ramona and Dan.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Maramures had been one of the principal draws of this
itinerary. Inspired by the book Along The Enchanted Way by William Blacker,
amongst others, we were looking forward to seeing this place where the 21<sup>st</sup>
Century had supposedly yet to arrive.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Of course, we would find the reality to be somewhat
different, but in this region, right up in the north of the country, jammed
against the Ukrainian border, traditions and traditional ways of life feature
strongly, as do local food and crafts. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Setting off, we crossed several passes on the way
through Campulung Moldovanesc and on to Bistrica. Although primarily following
the valley of the Bistrica river, we were surrounded by mountains, and on
several occasions wound slowly up and down on switchback roads. Along with poor
road surfaces, 50kmh speed limits and frequent horse-drawn carts to avoid, it’s
no wonder that journey times in Romania are notoriously slow!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO_jU_25faQgqFV-unGEe-bUmA59g3bpkXiCfPhp9VivegSxYmVypzKgfg2bdlGI5TCeXM7kmISijJ3cLG3W3hYdOibcYzmMVm2C3D6moBi8ywgHj8uXknT4hVQKGAiBhcxXRoLVk3rPw/s1600/20160921_141624.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO_jU_25faQgqFV-unGEe-bUmA59g3bpkXiCfPhp9VivegSxYmVypzKgfg2bdlGI5TCeXM7kmISijJ3cLG3W3hYdOibcYzmMVm2C3D6moBi8ywgHj8uXknT4hVQKGAiBhcxXRoLVk3rPw/s400/20160921_141624.jpg" width="225" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We stopped off in Bistrica around lunchtime, had a
quick look round, went up the tower of the main church, ate pizzas and pasta.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">It was a further one-hour drive to our rendezvous with
Ramona and Dan. We said our goodbyes to Costin and Gelu, and set off across
more mountain passes arriving soon after at the border into Maramures. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">About an hour later, we arrived in Botiza, the village
in which we are staying. Our pension is outside the main village by about 3km,
a set of traditional wooden houses of the Maramures region. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Really, it's an
idyllic setting – quiet, rural, traditional, with a big stove and hanging
drapes of rugs and cloths. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">We settled in with a cup of tea, then went to meet our
hosts for dinner – another pretty copious affair consisting of chicken soup,
pork and rice, and chocolate cakes for afters which proved, as we suspected,
just how good a cook our host Maria was.</span></div>
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Julian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8924560762707341331.post-21265814004221557402016-11-23T12:56:00.000-08:002016-11-23T12:56:44.412-08:00Roaming In Romania: Part 1 - Red Lake<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Day 1: Arrival<o:p></o:p></span></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Some years ago, we had an eventful and not entirely
satisfactory holiday in Romania. The tale of our two weeks in the Bucegi and
Fagaras mountains would require a post all of its own – suffice it to say that
our interest in Romania waned a little, and as a result it rather dropped off
the holiday radar. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Not that any of our misfortunes were the fault of
Romania itself. No, the travel company we used and the guides we travelled with
were to blame, not the country, which still held an allure that had been
dampened but not entirely snuffed out. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Over the course of the intervening dozen years those
embers had been fanned, not least by the writings of Nicholas Crane, Patrick
Leigh Fermor and William Blacker, until a chance e-mail made mention of a trip
that looked just the job, and re-ignited the feeling that Romania remained
“unfinished business”. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Our trip focused on the north of the country, up
towards the borders with Moldova and the Ukraine. We flew into Bacau, a small
airport with a whiff of “former airbase” about it, met our guide, Costin, and
driver, Gelu, and made the transfer to Lacu Rosu (Red Lake) in about two hours,
arriving after darkness had fallen.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;">Our room at the Vila Adele was simple, but clean and
tidy, and after a quick freshen-up, we went for dinner at the nearby Hotel Lacu
Rosu – described as “Soviet” style in our trip notes, but much nicer than that
sounds! – where we had a lovely meal of chicken soup, goulash and gnocchi, and
tiramisu.</span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Day 2 – Walk in Bicazului-Hasmas National Park on
Hasmasu mountain</span></u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">18.03k / Ascent
= 1288m / Descent = 1254m<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We awoke to a cool morning, but with the promise of a
fine day ahead. After breakfast, we made a short transfer to the far end of Red
Lake for the start of our walk on the limestone massif of Hasmas mountain
(pronounced like “hash-mash”).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Starting out along a broad gravel road, we soon cut
off to the left and began to climb in earnest, following grassy slopes and
tracks through the woods. Eventually, we came to open pasture dotted with sheep
and a handful of shepherds.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">A new refuge cabin made for an obvious landmark, and
we saw what we think we're Ravens circling in front of the limestone cliffs
above.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;">Crossing the open area, we climbed again up a narrow
valley beside the summit and circled round the back before making our way up to
the summit cross.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;">Here, what we had actually done became apparent.
Having made our way up to the edge of a limestone crest from the gentler slopes
behind, the rocky escarpment was now evident, the views really opened out in
all directions, and the formation pretty impressive to behold.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Heading back down to the main track, we picked up
Missy G’s hat (which she had thought lost) and stopped for lunch on a grassy
bank with views to the mountains lying in rank after rank into the distance –
relaxing in the sunshine, we already felt a million miles away from the hustle
and bustle of our normal lives.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">After cutting through more trees and crossing more
open ground, we eventually reached a staffed mountain refuge where we would’ve
stopped for a drink (the temperature had risen to around 28°C this afternoon) except
they were too busy cutting logs to be able to serve us. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The refuge marked a busy intersection of paths, with
routes going off in various directions along the ridge and down to the valleys,
and it was the only time all day we really saw anyone other than the odd
shepherd. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">A long descent followed, through the woods to reach
Gelu and the van at the edge of the town of Balan. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">A sign at the end of the path mentioned about Wolves,
and apparently there are some in the Bicazului-Hasmas National Park (although
that is not why it is designated as such). I don't know how many animals there
are there, and apparently they don't really attack livestock except in extreme
circumstances. Or, thankfully, hikers.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">It was a lovely day and a reasonable work-out
considering the distance and altitude stats. Returning to Lacu Rosu, we changed
and then went for dinner. Tonight it was goulash soup, schnitzel or kotlet with
vegetables and a cake for afters. Very nice!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Day 3- Ceahlau<o:p></o:p></span></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">14.75k / Ascent = 1506m / Descent = 1438m<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Breakfast this morning was notable for the presence of
a group from London. I think they were a bit non-plussed to find another
English group there, let alone one that was going hiking.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Ceahlau (pronounced something like “Chay-hlow”) is
another mountain massif, often likened to a fortress as the view from the south
side is of a long limestone ridge with a turret-like summit at each end and
rocky battlements between. It is quite dramatic when viewed in full from a
distance.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">It's also quite formidable when viewed from close up
at the start of the path from Izvoru Muntelui! After a couple of hundred metres
along the road, we picked up a path through the woods. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Tackling Ceahlau head-on
wouldn't work – it's much too steep. This path looked to find a slightly more
accessible way around the left hand end of the ridge, and although it may have
been “easier” it was definitely far from “easy”!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The route was continually testing, varying between
“quite steep” and “practically vertical”, and with our summit goal over 1000m
above our heads there was work to be done.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">In the first hour, we gained over 500m along forest
paths of various sizes, In the second hour we shinned up a narrow ravine for a
further 350m, and finally reached level ground for the first time since the
start.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_JOMkE3hFj8/WDVSevA4d7I/AAAAAAAAC04/We-BjHuwHaMsEzslywcMWGnl-VyNByP8QCPcB/s1600/IMG_6348.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_JOMkE3hFj8/WDVSevA4d7I/AAAAAAAAC04/We-BjHuwHaMsEzslywcMWGnl-VyNByP8QCPcB/s400/IMG_6348.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">For the third hour, we followed an undulating path
made more taxing by fallen trees and rockfall rubble. But at least there were
wild raspberries to eat to help us on our way!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">After a final climb of around 100m up a narrow shute,
we popped out at an open area and could see the Dochia hut ahead of us. Fifteen
minutes later, we were resting our weary legs, eating lunch and drinking mugs
refreshing mountain tea.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggE2WDe582VgdSLSA8WpXN77INPx8ODkxIjyRvbaAEI4SLYW6ICSoW1xo8X4ppkIuB9a4RchOzsVY6Fp9KqqZxGPVGueu0TrmjiLxXUSC2D9SCl5oFyi7_mphwGEA0NsSRDWArDKSGhnc/s1600/IMG_6359.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggE2WDe582VgdSLSA8WpXN77INPx8ODkxIjyRvbaAEI4SLYW6ICSoW1xo8X4ppkIuB9a4RchOzsVY6Fp9KqqZxGPVGueu0TrmjiLxXUSC2D9SCl5oFyi7_mphwGEA0NsSRDWArDKSGhnc/s400/IMG_6359.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">It was worth the effort, though – the summit is a
long, fairly level ridge at about 1800m, with views to all points of the
compass. A little hazy today, perhaps, but stunning nonetheless. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">What was also incredible was how busy the summit was,
especially given that the only way to get there was via routes like the ones we
took (ie: not for the faint-hearted). There were families and hikers of all
ages, many in lightweight shoes and seemingly ill-equipped for being in the
mountains.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Interestingly, these visitors were nearly all
Romanians (plus a few Moldavians, who apparently speak a heavily-accented
Romanian). One local chap overheard us speaking English and came over to ask
how we had come to be there. Had we run out of other mountains to visit?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">After soaking all this up, we traversed the ridge,
opted not to climb to the weather station, and began the long descent to Durau
back down at 700m-ish. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">It was a tough descent on mainly loose rocky paths –
not our favourite kind of underfoot conditions. However it was marginally
easier than a return the way we came up.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">As we descended we passed other walkers heading slowly
upwards. In all likelihood it would be dark soon after they reached the top, so
we assumed they must be camping or staying at the hut. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Annoyingly, though, groups of youngsters were going up
in T-shirts and light footwear, carrying nothing but bags and boxes of beer,
drinking as they went and chucking the empties on the floor – not what we would
have expected, really, and disappointing to see. Costin was furious.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We met our minibus at about 5.30pm, after a hard but
rewarding walk – tough and spectacular like yesterday, but busier and showing a
different side of the mountains. I liked the views and the effort required
today, although probably preferred yesterday's much quieter walk if I'm honest.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">On our return to Lacu Rosu we went straight to dinner,
so tidied ourselves up as best we could in the van on the way back. Unlike the
previous two nights, we ate outside undercover as a wedding party occupied the
main rooms. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">And what a meal it was – poached salmon with
vegetables to start, a mixed grill containing a pork steak, a chicken fillet, a
pork kotlet, a ham slice, a piece of bacon, a large sausage, a whole trout and
chips – EACH! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We ate our fill and then some, and there was still loads
left. We could only just squeeze in the tiramisu pudding!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">By the time we turned in at 9.30pm, we were tired,
happy and very full!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Day 4 – Red Lake, Bicaz Gorge & Sightseeing<o:p></o:p></span></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">After a slightly lighter breakfast than usual (thanks
to last night’s huge meal) we began the day with a short stroll to Red Lake.
Well, you can't come to Lacu Rosu and not actually see the lake, can you?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">It was formed in 1837 when a rockfall blocked the
stream, and the waters backed up to form the lake. Its quite shallow, and the
tops of the trees can still be seen above the water. The setting is beautiful,
and you can walk all the way round it if you want to, although we didn't. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We then made a short exploration of the gorge. It's
quite impressive – so narrow in places there is barely room for a road and a
rushing mountain stream side by side, with sheer walls, rocky pinnacles and the
road twisting in hairpin bends to negotiate the narrow confines. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">As we were leaving Red Lake today, we then took a
longer transfer to Targu Neamt to visit the 14<sup>th</sup> Century citadel,
built under the rule of Stephen the Great. It stands on a hillock about 80m
above the level of the town, and requires a steep climb to reach it. Why don't
they build castles a bit nearer to the car park?<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Although it had been in ruins since the Polish
conquest of 1691, the fortress has now been restored and houses a museum to the
history of it and other similar castles marking the then border of Moldavia.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We spent a good hour looking round, then went for
lunch at one of the nearby cafes. Of course, being a Sunday and with nice weather
as well it was pretty busy. But we got our order in the end, and it was well
worth the wait. Missy G had ice cream filled pancakes, and I had a local
speciality call Papanasi (pronounced “papa-nash”) a slightly suggestive-looking
creation of doughnuts with plum jam, cream sauce and sprinkled with icing sugar
that was both yummy and filling!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Moving on, we stopped about an hour later in Gura
Humorului to look in the ethnographic museum, and were let in specially since
it was after hours. Between Targu Neamt and Gura Humorului we had crossed from
Transylvania into Moldavia and the region known as Bucovina. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The museum small but very interesting, dealing in
particular with the traditions of Bucovina rather than wider Moldavia. It covered
traditional dress, clothing and fabrics, tools, crafts, trades, etc, and had
small scenarios set out such as a Christmas table setting, a blacksmiths, a
cheese-makers and a shepherd’s hut.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Then we drove to our new digs in Vatra Moldovitei.
Costin popped home for the evening, so there was us, Gelu and the hostess.
Although we don't speak Romanian and they didn't speak much English, we soon
worked out we had a little French in common, and with that and the help of
Google translate, we had a really lovely evening.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Dinner was veal and vegetable soup, pork kotlet and
mashed potato, and plum cake, with water to drink and a rather delicious Myrtle
liqueur!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMWFxyZRH8brVM2djJg1MCMy09nz0ZT3RYaFmMYK5qZnHeObi9gxNwJSL8Zre85J9IovrtvWdoYMP16xzcgykMNvic0aboeSONrk21CRtwnyczoqhLJ077L5kTuD5GvmMsr8ffkOYmCfc/s1600/20160920_202206.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMWFxyZRH8brVM2djJg1MCMy09nz0ZT3RYaFmMYK5qZnHeObi9gxNwJSL8Zre85J9IovrtvWdoYMP16xzcgykMNvic0aboeSONrk21CRtwnyczoqhLJ077L5kTuD5GvmMsr8ffkOYmCfc/s640/20160920_202206.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">After dinner, we had a brief stroll to the crossroads
and back. Tomorrow, we have a monastery, a museum, a train ride and a hike in
store, so retired for an early night. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">It had been a day of much information, and I have
probably missed most of what was discussed. It was also one of the few days we
have spent on sightseeing during recent holidays, as we much prefer hiking. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">It also made me realise just how little I know about
medieval Romanian history, or any other era since then come to that, but was
very enjoyable nonetheless.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Julian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8924560762707341331.post-42627895427589322482016-09-12T11:10:00.001-07:002016-09-12T11:10:11.038-07:00Hygge On The Horizon<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">I was listening to the radio at the weekend,
and came across the Danish concept of hygge (pronounced HUE-gah). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Hygge is one of those words for which there is
no direct translation into another language, but one definition I found describes
it as:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i><span style="color: #767171; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-style-textfill-fill-alpha: 100.0%; mso-style-textfill-fill-color: #767171; mso-style-textfill-fill-colortransforms: lumm=50000; mso-style-textfill-fill-themecolor: background2; mso-themecolor: background2; mso-themeshade: 128;">“the Danish ritual of enjoying life’s simple pleasures, friends,
family, graciousness, contentment, good feelings, a warm glow.
Certainly, hygge is intrinsic to the Danish lifestyle, but this
feeling of well-being, so deeply satisfying and cosy, is something
we all experience, each in our own way.<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
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<i><span style="color: #767171; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-style-textfill-fill-alpha: 100.0%; mso-style-textfill-fill-color: #767171; mso-style-textfill-fill-colortransforms: lumm=50000; mso-style-textfill-fill-themecolor: background2; mso-themecolor: background2; mso-themeshade: 128;">The hygge tradition includes sharing stories about ideas
and history, culture and the things we create. Celebrating happiness is
important to us. Our goal: more hospitality, more warmth, more respect for each
other and the environments we share”<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">All this sounds fantastic, and definitely
something I’d sign up for. Perhaps there is an inner Dane in me somewhere. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">It’s thought that the long, cold Danish winters
distilled these ideas of companionship, bonhomie and the good life into the
concept of hygge, and with the nights beginning to draw in and autumn just
around the corner, it reminded me that one of the great things to look forward
to in the coming months is a bracing walk by day followed by good food and friendship
by night. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Satisfaction guaranteed in my book, as the
accompanying photos show. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></div>
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Julian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8924560762707341331.post-79751396522003285842016-09-11T12:40:00.000-07:002016-09-11T23:00:15.610-07:00A Dash To Dentdale<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">We have always enjoyed our trips to Dentdale, a
beautiful part of the country we have been visiting regularly for over 25
years.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">In recent years, our visits have become rather fewer
and further between, but the August Bank Holiday weekend provided the perfect opportunity for a brief re-acquaintance and, although more succinct
than we would have liked, it was just the tonic we needed after a busy few
weeks.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">We did a bit of pottering about on Saturday afternoon after the drive up in the morning, but during the next two days we managed a couple of decent outings. On Sunday, we walked from our digs along the Dales Way to
Sedbergh and back. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iR6nNDTAqvA/V83RDKUkCYI/AAAAAAAACRA/koTtSZtTKYUjqgoy8s9WyYT-xRxi3gA5QCPcB/s1600/IMG_6274.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iR6nNDTAqvA/V83RDKUkCYI/AAAAAAAACRA/koTtSZtTKYUjqgoy8s9WyYT-xRxi3gA5QCPcB/s400/IMG_6274.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rosehips ripening</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M0-nm96cebY/V83RDGYtsRI/AAAAAAAACRA/IyLpifMy3gsR8RCXwV_aQ-_krj9hMWE-QCPcB/s1600/IMG_6277.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M0-nm96cebY/V83RDGYtsRI/AAAAAAAACRA/IyLpifMy3gsR8RCXwV_aQ-_krj9hMWE-QCPcB/s400/IMG_6277.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The rivers were full after heavy overnight rain</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cloud just lifting from the top of Middleton Fell</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; text-align: justify;">Although August by date, there was clear evidence that Autumn was fast approaching. Rivers were swollen from recent rains, blackberries were already ripe in the hedgerows, we picked wild raspberries as we went. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking towards the Lune Valley</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2Uz5TIKLpNs/V83RDDc1t3I/AAAAAAAACRA/hojDHscPnw47g3RNngrl3_aKpkOGiiOLACPcB/s1600/IMG_6280.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2Uz5TIKLpNs/V83RDDc1t3I/AAAAAAAACRA/hojDHscPnw47g3RNngrl3_aKpkOGiiOLACPcB/s400/IMG_6280.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From the hillside on the way into Millthrop, we could see the restored <br />
Pepperpot building in the grounds of Sedbergh School</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kP96UWOUYeM/V83RDEJDddI/AAAAAAAACRA/0L34iOzSF78B41aUtmkHGeNxr_g3pRwoACPcB/s1600/IMG_6282.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kP96UWOUYeM/V83RDEJDddI/AAAAAAAACRA/0L34iOzSF78B41aUtmkHGeNxr_g3pRwoACPcB/s400/IMG_6282.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Returning through Dent village</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-otKxg36DlwA/V9WHFBiOHwI/AAAAAAAACSc/4-GbTm3-FhQ8NvusnI5slJ5NbaX1Jv56ACPcB/s1600/IMG_6286.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="397" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-otKxg36DlwA/V9WHFBiOHwI/AAAAAAAACSc/4-GbTm3-FhQ8NvusnI5slJ5NbaX1Jv56ACPcB/s400/IMG_6286.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nuthatch on the bird feeder</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Monday dawned rather brighter, and we chose a
walk that gained height above the dale, affording great views to almost all
points of the compass.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Denthead viaduct on a brighter morning</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-09kcKH-f8NE/V83RDAatSZI/AAAAAAAACRA/FGG1RJcXD8YttleQrCUbRK0jjMJ2hpCVACPcB/s1600/IMG_6288.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-09kcKH-f8NE/V83RDAatSZI/AAAAAAAACRA/FGG1RJcXD8YttleQrCUbRK0jjMJ2hpCVACPcB/s400/IMG_6288.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picking up the Pennine Bridleway</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's a National Trail!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iQ0Dh8befuk/V83RDBH9RRI/AAAAAAAACRA/Ia7yyzfXH0EFjBsgelxIvszcEeocQzGDwCPcB/s1600/IMG_6290.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iQ0Dh8befuk/V83RDBH9RRI/AAAAAAAACRA/Ia7yyzfXH0EFjBsgelxIvszcEeocQzGDwCPcB/s400/IMG_6290.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back towards Ingleborough and Pen-y-ghent</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9_2_zYL7ZJo/V83RDPN54aI/AAAAAAAACRA/rzKq9wHLLtsqLWbwAvxhM8a9oT6nst79wCPcB/s1600/IMG_6291.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9_2_zYL7ZJo/V83RDPN54aI/AAAAAAAACRA/rzKq9wHLLtsqLWbwAvxhM8a9oT6nst79wCPcB/s400/IMG_6291.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from near the top of Arten Gill</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-l_6_QCHvwos/V83RDKZA-fI/AAAAAAAACRA/Oo3RdP7WQVwoDy9Zaia90rV3cRimF2JyQCPcB/s1600/IMG_6294.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-l_6_QCHvwos/V83RDKZA-fI/AAAAAAAACRA/Oo3RdP7WQVwoDy9Zaia90rV3cRimF2JyQCPcB/s400/IMG_6294.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Soaking up the far-reaching views on a perfect day for walking, <br />
with the mountains of the Lake District in the far distance</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jJWGJPtB8Z8/V83RDNLp20I/AAAAAAAACRA/D11lgnERgSAFR3Q_6FOlz-psgbcW3smgACPcB/s1600/IMG_6296.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jJWGJPtB8Z8/V83RDNLp20I/AAAAAAAACRA/D11lgnERgSAFR3Q_6FOlz-psgbcW3smgACPcB/s400/IMG_6296.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dentdale laid out below us in all its glory</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pMyO7hoC0LM/V83RDPIGJEI/AAAAAAAACRA/4EKOkkWzbcMctchv3ux69CGJoxjFyENigCPcB/s1600/IMG_6298.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pMyO7hoC0LM/V83RDPIGJEI/AAAAAAAACRA/4EKOkkWzbcMctchv3ux69CGJoxjFyENigCPcB/s400/IMG_6298.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back in the dale, the rivers are quieter today</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirv5-XVCMp302ENqGrw7uyk3_-fhChPBiRJOQ8VtnEhenWKLRMsiqAj_quySU1VIRH7CQ2pBZuDjmkVxIsDcesXN7F1awceJ40GeHVNm9AZ8OzE3aJk-3BUA_xovePQJvs30MNK-Vt16c/s1600/IMG_6301.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirv5-XVCMp302ENqGrw7uyk3_-fhChPBiRJOQ8VtnEhenWKLRMsiqAj_quySU1VIRH7CQ2pBZuDjmkVxIsDcesXN7F1awceJ40GeHVNm9AZ8OzE3aJk-3BUA_xovePQJvs30MNK-Vt16c/s400/IMG_6301.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunlight catching the peat-stained waters of the River Dee</td></tr>
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Julian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8924560762707341331.post-4790048826689175162016-09-05T11:25:00.000-07:002016-09-05T11:25:21.536-07:00A Long Weekend In Poland - Part 4<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><b><u>Day 4 – Zakopane and back to Krakow</u></b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Monday dawned somewhat overcast, with a light mizzle in the air and low cloud and
swirling mist obscuring the mountain views. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Not to worry - being British and intrepid, we are used to a bit of rain!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">After a hearty breakfast, we set
out for a stroll down the main street and look around the market for souvenirs.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hbng7ClfTHQ/V7yPliTbD6I/AAAAAAAACKk/R-2Ju6waSPAdfiXw7dLZ1zUvf0THJiCEgCPcB/s1600/20160815_091551.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hbng7ClfTHQ/V7yPliTbD6I/AAAAAAAACKk/R-2Ju6waSPAdfiXw7dLZ1zUvf0THJiCEgCPcB/s400/20160815_091551.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Read all about it! Sam visits Zakopane!</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">We decided to take the funicular railway up Gubałöwka,
the low hill overlooking Zakopane. On a clear day you get great views of the
main mountain range, but today it was not to be – Giewont, the “sleeping knight”,
stayed resolutely beneath his cloudy bedclothes, having a duvet day. Naughty Giewont, the lazy so-and-so.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5YJYASVKf1g/V7yO3WfrtVI/AAAAAAAACKg/Ym1VC0i8RBo49T07ydjRAa95tSINTO2dQCPcB/s1600/IMG_6268.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5YJYASVKf1g/V7yO3WfrtVI/AAAAAAAACKg/Ym1VC0i8RBo49T07ydjRAa95tSINTO2dQCPcB/s400/IMG_6268.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">On Gubałöwka</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">We walked along the road as far as Butorowy
Wierch and back, avoiding the traffic both horse-drawn and petrol-driven, looking in all the gift shops and resisting the food stalls (although Tom bought some berries picked from the nearby woods, which were delicious). </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">But after a stop
for drinks, it was time to descend the funicular and make our way to the bus station ready
for the coach back to Krakow. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">At lower levels the sun was shining, and despite the fact the mountain tops were hidden in cloud it seemed a shame to leave. It's been over six years since my last visit, rather too long I think.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">We'd only had a day or so in total in Zakopane, but hopefully it was long enough for Tom and Sam to get a flavour of the mountains and the walking available, and to see a different side of the country to cosmopolitan Krakow.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qNqlKzmUlE0/V7yPlh0rM8I/AAAAAAAACKk/T3JIlilLyW8cJTbIFVvZ04XFy2Mmxa5EQCPcB/s1600/20160815_154840.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qNqlKzmUlE0/V7yPlh0rM8I/AAAAAAAACKk/T3JIlilLyW8cJTbIFVvZ04XFy2Mmxa5EQCPcB/s400/20160815_154840.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kids performance of highlander dance in traditional dress, Krakow </td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">We all had a bit of a nap on the journey back
to Krakow, testament to the busy days we had been enjoying. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">We arrived mid-afternoon, giving us time to do a bit of souvenir shopping in the Cloth Hall market and grab some lunch at the </span><i style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">pierogi</i><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> festival. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">The
place was heaving. It would appear <i>p</i></span><i style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">ierogi</i><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> is a
serious business, and the competition winners had just been announced. Queues were long and stocks increasingly short, but eventually we availed ourselves of a selection - some meat, some cheese and a few spinach - and a drink to wash them down with.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Souvenir shopping in the Cloth Hall</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">After a final coffee stop on the edge of the
main square, our time in Poland was nearing an end. We boarded the train back to the airport and readied ourselves for the
journey home. We’d packed a lot into just four days, which goes to show what
you can do if you set your mind to it.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IX_LS-qm4hc/V7yO3aJPEvI/AAAAAAAACKg/AxUcyeJCaXM31N__-Do1A2K9XxrsOieJQCPcB/s1600/IMG_6271.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IX_LS-qm4hc/V7yO3aJPEvI/AAAAAAAACKg/AxUcyeJCaXM31N__-Do1A2K9XxrsOieJQCPcB/s400/IMG_6271.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Where shall we go next?</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">All I can say is that if Tom and Sam enjoyed themselves half as much
as we did, they’d have had a blast, and I’d like to thank them for being
great company.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">It's said that travel broadens the mind, and I think this is undoubtedly true. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Experiencing other places, landscapes and cultures can be so rewarding, and </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">I hope their first taste of foreign travel has left them keen for more. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">To get a glimpse of another way of life, to </span><span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">delve into a different culture,</span><span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> brush past an unfamiliar history </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">and cross paths with a new geographgy </span><span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">helps to foster a greater understanding of the world when back at home, which can only be a good thing. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">After all, we live in a Global Village these days. </span><br />
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Julian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8924560762707341331.post-49491887990067224162016-09-05T00:13:00.000-07:002016-09-05T00:13:35.677-07:00A Long Weekend In Poland - Part 3<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-align: justify;">
<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><b>Day 3 – Zakopane</b><o:p></o:p></span></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">After another early breakfast, we set off for
the bus station to catch the coach to Zakopane, the mountain resort at the foot
of the High Tatras. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Coaches run frequently between Krakow and Zakopane, and prices are good value - about £3.50 per person one way. Heavy public holiday traffic delayed our
arrival slightly, but everything went smoothly enough and we all enjoyed a bit of a snooze on the way.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">On arrival at around midday, we headed straight to Kuźnice and the start of our planned
walk to the Murowaniec hut at the Hala Gąsienicowa. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Like everywhere this weekend, Kuźnice was busy, with bars and cafes spilling out onto the pavement and lengthy queues for the cable car to Kasprowy Wierch. But, for the more active visitor, it is from here that paths lead willing walkers into the mountains, and on such a beautiful day it was hard to resist.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the path out of Kuznice, searching for wild raspberries </td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Now although they have done plenty of walking in the UK, this was Tom and Sam's first real mountain walk, and we had no real idea of whether it would be doable or not. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">The High Tatras are a compact rannge and may not rank amongst the highest peaks of Europe, but they are most definitely "proper" mountains, with jagged summits, knife-edge ridges, plunging valleys and mountain lakes to rival the best the continent has to offer. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YMJA8TW5Ae0/V7yO3aktWFI/AAAAAAAACKg/yUiGDblAUGoc12417MY5EEbYIgr0UVI6wCPcB/s1600/IMG_6264.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YMJA8TW5Ae0/V7yO3aktWFI/AAAAAAAACKg/yUiGDblAUGoc12417MY5EEbYIgr0UVI6wCPcB/s400/IMG_6264.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking through the Jaworzynka valley</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">So it was a tough proposition - with 500m of vertical ascent to contend with, we took our time and
gradually rose through the Jaworzynka valley before making the steep, zig-zagging climb
up to the pass and more level ground.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-82jTXfzsbuY/V7yPhS-eSII/AAAAAAAACKk/k3mRgmPrWhop8YqkdPmtU6YWEagChRkIQCPcB/s1600/20160814_133728_001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-82jTXfzsbuY/V7yPhS-eSII/AAAAAAAACKk/k3mRgmPrWhop8YqkdPmtU6YWEagChRkIQCPcB/s400/20160814_133728_001.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It was a long climb out of the valley, but the views would be worth it ....</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwvnVNCkrdCLZFxAi66zVBBbPozrrScILT5k7up4ztyXfW5T_sGhsUcwYI12uMuiYaEX5SBxPlwec9ZHbg8KjXcbisg8c8LJUT3rnTpMo81fU6Pi6hHSMX5nQMlZst1tQGBJgk9ycrI3c/s1600/IMG_6265.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwvnVNCkrdCLZFxAi66zVBBbPozrrScILT5k7up4ztyXfW5T_sGhsUcwYI12uMuiYaEX5SBxPlwec9ZHbg8KjXcbisg8c8LJUT3rnTpMo81fU6Pi6hHSMX5nQMlZst1tQGBJgk9ycrI3c/s400/IMG_6265.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">.... Giewont, the "Sleeping Knight" from the south ....</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Qo4aEID_eC5nPDEeraiS_s_pM1z8c9ipHxqO-i34EA0adQcz_Vhy_MLpcoio5HBoAapFv2-LbmzNEGx2DE7U3bsHJljV5YOGzropztTiOrggibFB-dQhcw7jgBoap8twtIsTko2AGCE/s1600/14233441_176005739475061_420199961_o.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Qo4aEID_eC5nPDEeraiS_s_pM1z8c9ipHxqO-i34EA0adQcz_Vhy_MLpcoio5HBoAapFv2-LbmzNEGx2DE7U3bsHJljV5YOGzropztTiOrggibFB-dQhcw7jgBoap8twtIsTko2AGCE/s400/14233441_176005739475061_420199961_o.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">.... and the view north over Zakopane towards distant hills</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Given good weather and the number of people out and about on this holiday weekend, it was somewhat surprising that the route wasn’t busier. There were plenty of folks about, but we managed to get a brief sense of the "wilderness" these mountains represent - wild boar, lynx, wolf and bear inhabit theses wild, wooded slopes.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cUR45Pjhyj4/V80Yo93h2bI/AAAAAAAACOs/T3ar3ArGtss1LIezZxDbD9J3jKN-uzgOgCPcB/s1600/640px-Dolina_G%25C4%2585sienicowa_a7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cUR45Pjhyj4/V80Yo93h2bI/AAAAAAAACOs/T3ar3ArGtss1LIezZxDbD9J3jKN-uzgOgCPcB/s400/640px-Dolina_G%25C4%2585sienicowa_a7.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching Murowaniec - the hut sits in a bowl surrounded by high <br />peaks and wooded slopes - a real mountain experience<br />(Image from hut website)</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">We reached Murowaniec around 3.00pm in time for a late lunch. </span><span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">The hut operates a slightly weird system of
service. You queue up at one desk to order and pay, then get a paper slip to
take to the serving hatch to queue again for your food. You show them your
slip, and they go and fetch your order – one bit at a time! With several items
on order (food and drink for 4 people) it can be a lengthy and confusing wait!</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pMTMHystPdo/V80Yo9rs31I/AAAAAAAACOs/jEpCHo7BtasO7Qm-BT3A3lpMq6l4GPR8wCPcB/s1600/gal-12613941265-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pMTMHystPdo/V80Yo9rs31I/AAAAAAAACOs/jEpCHo7BtasO7Qm-BT3A3lpMq6l4GPR8wCPcB/s400/gal-12613941265-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Outside Murowaniec<br />(Image from hut website)</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Anyway, by the time we got it, we were ready
for our </span><i style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Bigos, Fasolka</i><span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> (spicy bean
soup) hot dog and chips. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Once we were all suitably fed and watered, we set off
back down again, taking a slightly different descent to Kuźnice where Tom
bathed his aching feet in the ice-cold river. It doesn’t really
easy the pain, just replaces it with another sort of discomfort. But it is
refreshing, and I'm assured they did feel better afterwards! </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aE6WJcoK-S8/V7yPhbc7ElI/AAAAAAAACKk/6TGZI3VCKRwc8mEledJBTdsRV8gn19j6ACPcB/s1600/20160814_182657.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aE6WJcoK-S8/V7yPhbc7ElI/AAAAAAAACKk/6TGZI3VCKRwc8mEledJBTdsRV8gn19j6ACPcB/s400/20160814_182657.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Soothing aching feet in an ice-cold mountain river, Kuznice</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">After checking in at our hotel, we set out
again, wandering between the shops, snack bars and entertainments of the busy main
street, ul Krupowki. We ate in a traditional restaurant, and Tom was most
impressed with his <i>Golonka</i> – stewed
pork knuckle – but Sam’s potato pancakes (<i>p</i><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><i>lacki ziemniaczane) </i>were good, too. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0fMqfqy-Hyw/V7yPhaExQuI/AAAAAAAACKk/qREayY4rv3Asw4Ha8vOiaVuNt6I6US9TwCPcB/s1600/20160814_201349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0fMqfqy-Hyw/V7yPhaExQuI/AAAAAAAACKk/qREayY4rv3Asw4Ha8vOiaVuNt6I6US9TwCPcB/s400/20160814_201349.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Happy holidaymakers, ready for dinner!</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Finally, we walked down to the bottom of the
street and all chose different flavours from the ice-cream shop before heading
back through the busy streets to the hotel. </span></div>
Julian Gloverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12672534982109415843noreply@blogger.com0