A Capital Idea – Part 4: Falconwood to Richmond

Day 1: Falconwood to Streatham Common

18.00 miles

And so to the final sections of the Capital Ring, the round-London walk we started back in the autumn of 2016. Initially, we’d intended this to be a winter project, but the loss of my father in the early part of this year meant these final few miles had been necessarily put on hold.   

However, the opportunity to complete the walk presented itself when we booked tickets to see Tears For Fears at the Royal Albert Hall and decided to book an extra night’s accommodation and “make a weekend” of it.

On King John's Walk

So, bright and early despite the late night the night before, we transferred out to Falconwood to pick up where we left off before, where our initial move was to tackle the loop through Shepherdleas Wood that we couldn’t complete last time due to rapidly-fading light.

Coffee break, with a distant view of
The Shard

That done, we picked up Section 2 of the Capital Ring, passing through Eltham Park and Avery Hill Park (where we were navigationally challenged for a few minutes) and beside Eltham College on the way towards Grove Park. It was good to be out and about again, and once again we seemed to have struck luck with the weather.

After the parkland and residential streets of Section 2, the next section followed a similar pattern of park areas connected by suburban streets. All of this area was new to us, and despite offering little in the way of challenge, the walking was pleasant enough.

Dinosaurs in Crystal Palace Park

We stopped for a quick lunch break at the café in Beckenham Place Park, then continued on through Penge to reach Crystal Palace Park. All I really know about Crystal Palace is that it used to be the location of the cast-iron-and-glass structure of the same name that was destroyed by fire in 1936, and is currently home to a bunch of large, lumbering creatures whose best years are well behind them. No, not the players of the under-performing football team of the same name, but dinosaurs!

Upper Norwood Recreation Ground

Originally, we’d only planned to walk as far as Norwood today, but with the weather good and time on our side we decided we could make a couple more miles so pushed on to Streatham. 

Norwood Grove

Crossing the Common, we eyed up the buses on the High Road. We had set our sights on eating in Brixton, which was just a few minutes away with transport. Well, you can’t come to one of the country’s premier international food centres and not give it a go, can you?

Fading light over Streatham

If you’re a bit of a foodie and you’ve never been to Brixton Village, I recommend you give it a try sometime. The Souk-like interior harbours all manner of curious foodstuffs and enticing ingredients, the narrow alleys reveal something of interest at every turn, and the exotic ambience definitely has a touch of “abroad” about it. We chose a selection of terrine and charcuterie from Corsica – delicious!  

Charcuterie!

Day 2: Streatham Common to Richmond Bridge

14.00 miles

Next day, we made our way back the Streatham on a cool but bright morning. The stage between Streatham and Wimbledon Park crosses Tooting Bec and Wandsworth Common, but is primarily walking on residential streets.

So, although the going is easy enough, there is perhaps a little less to enthuse the walker than on some other sections. Still, there were plenty of leaves to kick through on this autumn morning, which helped pass the time and eat up the miles.  

Wandsworth Common

Having passed HMP Brixton on the bus, it was now time to walk past Wandsworth Prison, situated incongruously between the green of the Common, the well-to-do houses and Wandsworth Cemetery.

We stopped for coffee in Wimbledon Park, in a café just down from the station. On the morning of the fall-out from Catalonia’s unilateral declaration of Independence from Spain, we found ourselves at a Spanish bar. The papers were full of the story: needless to say, politics was off the conversation agenda.

Wimbledon Park

The final section took us through Wimbledon Park, across Wimbledon Common and via Richmond Park to reach Richmond Bridge. We had covered some of this section before with our friends Celia and Nick, back when we were just scoping the route. The Common was much quieter than last time, when we got caught up with the Wimbledon Half Marathon.

Pen Ponds

Richmond Park was looking splendid in the afternoon sunshine. After taking a break on one of the park benches, we followed the route between Pen Ponds and on to Pemboke Lodge where we picked up a late lunch. It was busy, and although it was nice to retrace our steps from last year, see the protected view of St Paul’s Cathedral from Harry’s Mound and enjoy the wide view of Twickenham, Windsor Castle and the Thames as we descended towards Petersham Meadow, it was marred somewhat by dawdlers and path-hogs.

Heading for Pembroke Lodge

We had a final sit beside The Thames, reflecting on the weekend and the walk in full. And overall, we were very satisfied with both. The big advantage of a walk like the Capital Ring is that it is a good choice for the winter months, when the generally easy going and relatively mud-free walking really come into their own.

OK, so it had taken a bit longer than initially planned, but that couldn’t be helped. Having completed both, I think we are of the opinion that we’d tackle the Capital Ring and the London LOOP again sometime – perhaps even as soon as next winter.

Descending towards Petersham Meadows

Whatever the future brings, we are very glad to have completed these routes – routes that have had the ability to surprise us in many different ways. We’ve seen a lot more of London than we ever had before, grown to appreciate the history, geography, culture and diversity of our capital, and in the process got to know it’s character a whole lot better.

And do you know what? We’re all the better for it too. 

A Capital Idea - Part 3: Hackney Wick to Falconwood

Early February presented us with the opportunity for another London-based weekend. As far as the Sunday went, we had made arrangements to visit the Destinations travel show at Olympia, to meet with friends and divine inspiration for future trips. A quick count-back revealed it was 16 years since we had last attended such a show, so maybe it was time for another visit.

Anyway, that left a full day on the Saturday to continue with our Capital Ring project, picking up from Hackney Wick where we left off last time, round east London, to the Shooters Hill area on the south side of the Thames. 

After our now-traditional early train journey into the capital, we arrived at Hackney Wick at about 9.30am. Overnight rain had ceased, but the ground was still wet and I managed to drop the route information sheets into a puddle before we’d even left the station.

A work in progress ......

.... and we can't disagree, except perhaps in the use of the term "decorate" 

Re-joining the Ring, we followed the Lee Navigation for a short way, skirting round the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park (now home to West Ham United Football Club) and The Orbit.

Lee Navigation and Olympic Stadium

Information board showing the intricate network of waterways here

The Orbit is an unusual creation. At 114.5m tall, it claims to be Britain’s largest public sculpture, designed by Turner Prize-winner Anish Kapoor in response to London Mayor Boris Johnson’s request for “something special” for the Olympic Park. According to Wikipedia this radical combination of architecture, sculpture and structural engineering was the unanimous choice of the advisory panel, and has been both praised and criticised. 

The Orbit: daring sculpture project or
waste of £22.7 million? You decide.

We picked up the Greenway, a 6-mile-long pathway that runs on top of the Northern Outfall Sewage Embankment, part of the sewage system designed by Joseph Bazalgette in the 1860s. The occasional whiff acted as a reminder of the path’s origins.

After negotiating a diversion more by intuition than adequate signage, we crossed the Prime Meridian into the eastern hemisphere and sat on a wet bench for a brief break. The dull of the morning began to lift and hints of sunshine tried to break through, and although this may not be the prettiest section of the Ring, there is much of interest to see and we had enjoyed the walk so far.

Beckton Alps, look it says so on the road sign, with high-point on the horizon

Leaving the Greenway, the scenery began to change as we traversed the foothills of the Beckton Alps and descended into Beckton District Park, where this section of the Capital Ring finished. 

Beyond the parks, we cut through houses to emerge by the DLR stop at Cyprus, and took a bee-line through the modern-seeming campus of the University of East London to reach the Royal Albert Dock, with the busy City Airport beyond.

University of East London, Royal Albert Dock & City Airport

We walked beside the Dock, now used as an international rowing course, past the Sir Steve Redgrave Bridge, over Gallions Roundabout and on to Atlantis Avenue, and reached the Thames – the first time we have seen the river since leaving Richmond.

Sound political advice on offer

This urban fox was out in the
daytime and completely at ease
with our being so close

Carrying on beside the river, we crossed a couple of sets of lock gates (originally controlling access to the Royal Albert and King George V Docks) and stopped for a brief lunch break on some handy benches.

Looking into the King George V lock

Woolwich Ferry

As we continued towards the Woolwich Ferry, we fell in with a couple of other walkers who turned out to be Jeremy and Diana from the Week Walks website, a site dedicated to linear walks both in the UK and Europe, and whose enjoyment of longer, linear routes matches our own. Their site is full of lots of inspiration for multi-day hikes:

www.weekwalks.co.uk

Section 15 of the Capital Ring ends here – in fact, this is the official end of the route if the walk is attempted sequentially. To connect to the next section, section 1, walkers can either take the Woolwich Ferry as a foot passenger or, more excitingly we think, actually walk beneath the Thames.

Entrance to the Woolwich Foot Tunnel

I must confess, when I first read about the Woolwich Foot Tunnel I imagined something dark and dank and much more akin to Bazalgette’s sewers than the clean, well-lit, underground-like tunnel that we found, the most disconcerting part of which being the faint dizziness caused by negotiating the 100+ circular steps up and down. 

Path beneath the Thames

Having safely reached the other side, we bade farewell to Jeremy and Diana and continued on our way. Immediately, we noticed two differences from the north side of the river – fewer signposts, several of which seemed to be incorrectly aligned, and reduced information in the route notes. The problem, I think, is that the Thames Path and a couple of other routes take precedence here, with Capital Ring signage demoted as a result.

Thames Barrier

Barrier viewpoint - playing "Titanic" optional

However, the weather seemed brighter, so once back on track we followed beside the river for a few minutes to a viewpoint over the river and the Thames Barrier. A slightly confusing course through housing, industrial estate and main road brought us to Maryon Park and Maryon Wilson Park, from where, from an elevated position, we could see across to The Valley, home of Charlton Athletic Football Club. 

Tea with The Queen

Although the afternoon was wearing on, we still felt good, so we stopped in Charlton Park for tea and scones at the The Old Cottage Café, a welcome rest that bolstered us for the final few miles. We crossed Hornfair Park and Woolwich Common, negotiated the road junction below Shooters Hill and climbed across Eltham Common to reach Severndroog Castle as dusk was falling.

Severdroog Castle at dusk

After descending the steps on the far side, the path led through woods to Oxleas Meadows, then on through the trees to reach the road at Rochester Way and the short walk to Falconwood station. We could have managed the loop through Shepherdleas Wood too, but the sun was setting and the light fading fast between the trees, so we will save that for next time.

On the way back, there was plenty of time to reflect on a diverse and enjoyable day spent on both the north and south side of the Thames, from the urban dereliction of Hackney Wick to the forested hillsides near Falconwood, the new of the DLR and the regeneration of East London to the history of the Royal Albert Dock and Woolwich, with its maritime connections, dockyards, military history and famous Royal Arsenal.

A Capital Idea – Part 2: Richmond to Hackney Wick

Day 1: Richmond to Harrow-on-the-Hill

16.25 miles

Back in the summer, we experienced a taster of the Capital Ring – the daytime activity we coordinated to go along with an evening performance of the ballet Swan Lake at the Royal Opera House, Covent Garden – with a view to continuing the project over the winter months in the same way we had with the London LOOP last year.

Now that the nights were drawing in, it was time to tackle the walk in earnest. Once again, we made our arrangements around another event – this time, a session at the ATP World Tennis Finals at the O2 – but also tacked on our one last holiday day of the year to give us a good two-and-a-half days of walking.

The Thames on a gloomy November morning

After another of the now-familiar early Saturday morning train and tube commutes, we arrived in Richmond around 9.30am and made our way to the riverside where we had left off before.

Looking back to Richmond Bridge

Setting off under leaden skies, a steady rain accompanied us as we crossed the sluggish-looking Thames by the footbridge at Richmond Lock. Flirting with the extremities of Isleworth, we followed the path across the frontage of the Town Wharf pub (a different hour of a nicer day and a drink would have been welcome) and left the riverside to enter the Capability-Brown-landscaped grounds of Syon Park. The interior of the house, which I don’t think you can go into, was remodelled by architect Robert Adam (he of Adam Fireplace fame).

Brentford Lock

Exiting the park, we crossed the road and joined the Grand Union Canal at Brentford Lock and followed this under the M4 motorway to Osterley Lock, where Section 7 of the Ring officially ends. Strange to think: you can walk all the way to Birmingham from here, if you’ve a mind to do so – 140-odd miles of canal towpath, a route perhaps best undertaken in chunks!

Houseboats on the Grand Union

Section 8 continued along the towpath, first crossing the River Brent, then veering right to follow it at Hanwell Bottom Lock near Ealing Hospital.

Passing beneath the Wharncliffe Viaduct

After passing beneath the impressive Wharncliffe Viaduct (built in 1838 by Isambard Kingdom Brunel to carry the Great Western Railway from London to Bristol) we entered Churchfield Recreation Ground and took advantage of the benches for an early lunch break. It was still raining, and although our sandwiches may have got a bit soggy round the edges, it didn’t matter – just being out on a decent walk, with nothing to worry about for a few hours, was much more of a tonic than a wet day in Hanwell might initially suggest.

Having passed through Brent Lodge Park, the Brent Valley Golf Course and Perivale Park, we crossed the A40 by footbridge and made our way towards Greenford and the end of section 8.

Crossing the A40 near Perivale

Checking the time, we could see it was still quite early – with a short rest break we could carry on. The Costa at Westway Cross Shopping Park provided the opportunity, and although we looked slightly at odds with the rest of the clientele with our rucksacks, boots and soaking waterproofs, we took the chance to rest-up, enjoy an energising coffee and get warm and dry. 

Our new target was Harrow-on-the-Hill, still a good 90 minutes’ walk away. For a stretch we re-joined the Grand Union Canal – at least the Paddington Branch of it – as we passed through the Paradise Fields Wetlands (bit of a moot distinction on a day like today – everywhere was wet land, and the paradisal nature of the area camouflaged by mizzle).

Climbing to the summit of Horsenden Hill was hardly an alpine outing, but it did represent the stiffest ascent of the day. It was also the only place where we became “navigationally challenged” all weekend, as the landmark on which the instructions were based was missing.

After a couple of minutes’ searching, we guessed the right path and descended into Sudbury, weaving through the streets and past football fields before a steep-ish climb brought us out on to the road into Harrow-on-the-Hill.

This alleyway is named after the character in Anthony
Trollope's Barchester Chronicles novels

The light was beginning to fade as we made our way through the village and left the Capital Ring for the day, and by the time we reached the station it was as good as dark. It had been a long day, but a good one – we’d covered more ground than we expected, and much of that through pleasant parks or on waterside walks.

Beginning to get dark in Harrow-on-the-Hill

Back in central London, we had beers and burgers at the Exmouth Arms – a pub situated a couple of streets away from Euston Station, and full of the after-work crowd in the week – then the recollection of an early start had us heading to our hotel for a good nights’ sleep.

Day 2: Harrow-on-the-Hill to Hendon

9.00 miles

Refreshed and raring to go, we were back in Harrow-on-the-Hill well before 9.00am, climbing back up to the village to re-join the Capital Ring. In contrast to yesterday, it was a bright, late-autumn morning of sunshine and blue skies.

On the way back up to Harrow-on-the-Hill

We made our way through the village and the grounds of Harrow School. This is where the great and the good are educated: Winston Churchill and Lord Byron, the author Anthony Trollope and playwright Richard Brinsley Sheridan are just a few of the successful who passed through these hallowed halls.

St Mary's Church

We picked our way between swathes of morning-coated soon-to-be peers and future PMs. It has to be said, though, that despite the beauty of the setting and the academic reputation of the place, the air felt no more rarefied than elsewhere and the skies seemed no more blue.

And the grass was definitely no greener. I may not mix in such circles, but I’m proud of my ordinary north Midlands roots and happy with my life, and, at the end of the day, I think that counts for a lot.

Playing fields, with Harrow School in the background

Crossing Watford Road by the only stile on the Capital Ring (according to the guide notes) we followed the Ducker Path beside Northwick Park Hospital and soon came to South Kenton station – the end of Section 9.

Section 10 began with a stretch through residential streets and parks. On this glorious autumn morning, Fryent Country Park was throng with joggers and dog-walkers. We gradually made our way to the top of Barn Hill, where we sat by a small pond for a coffee break. In relative terms, Barn Hill is a notable prominence, and there are good views to be had, for example to Wembley Stadium.

Pond at the top of Barn Hill

We descended through woods, then began the gentle climb up to Gotfords Hill and more long views. After another descent and more residential streets, we reached the Welsh Harp Reservoir, an attractive open water area with bird life, sailing and pleasant grounds through which to walk.

Welsh Harp Reservoir

As today’s walk was a shorter one for us, our end-of-day objective was fast approaching. Reached after crossing West Hendon Broadway and traversing further residential streets, we arrived at Hendon Station, the end of Section 10. We’d done well this morning, clocking up some 9 miles, although it was certainly made easier by such a beautiful morning – some reward for yesterdays’ soggy trudge.

Day 3: Hendon to Hackney Wick

15.00 miles

It was another overcast morning for our third day on the Ring, but we were out and about in good time despite our attending the ATP World Tennis finals at the O2 the evening before.

Avenue of trees, Hendon Park

We set out across Hendon Park, zig-zagged through a few residential streets, and entered Brent Park. To be honest, if you didn’t know, you wouldn’t guess that one of Britain’s busiest roads, the North Circular, ran only a few yards away, such is the secluded feel of the woodland.

Heron with Water Vole, Brent Park

The route runs beside the North Circular, beside the River Brent and then the Mutton Brook, for a mile or so, then bears right towards Hampstead Garden Suburb – created in the early 20^th Century and designed to offer a range of housing set amongst open spaces, pedestrian walkways and mature trees.

Lyttleton Park

Residential streets, Lyttleton Playing Fields, more streets of attractive suburban houses passed. We reached East Finchley Tube and crossed the Great North Road into Cherry Tree Wood where we stopped for coffee and jaffa cakes and a chat with the locals.

Squirrel in Cherry Tree Wood

Moving on, we followed an undulating path through Highgate Wood and Queen’s Wood (remnants of the ancient Middlesex Forest) to reach Priory Gardens and the end of Section 11.

Entrance to Highgate Wood

A short, steep path through Highgate Spinney began Section 12. Then, after a short stretch of main road, we reached the Parkland Walk – London’s longest nature reserve – the bed of an old railway line converted into a recreational space after the tracks were lifted in 1970.

Parkland Walk

Navigation was easy for the next couple of miles, the only challenge being to avoid the herds of joggers and cyclists – it’s mid-Monday morning, don’t these people have jobs to go to?

Last time I was in Finsbury Park, Paul Weller was playing songs from the Stanley Road album to thousands of fans on a baking-hot afternoon in June 1996. It’s fair to say that there weren’t so many folks about on a wet Monday in November some twenty years later, but there was a café, and after an early breakfast and a good walk we were ready for food.

To be honest, the Finsbury Park café is not quite what you’d expect. It’s a lot more “locally-sourced-this” and “Fairtrade-that” than your average park caff. Of course, there’s nothing wrong with that – you don’t usually get grilled tomatoes on the vine with your fry up or sliced avocado in your Cajun Chicken Burger!

Monday lunchtime saw it well-populated by yummy Mummies and au pairs with children in tow, and I learnt more about breast-feeding in public in the half-hour we were there than I might ordinarily have anticipated.  

Next, we picked up the New River Path. New River is something of a misnomer – as a four-hundred-year-old artificial watercourse, it is neither “new” nor a “river” – but it was a pleasant walk that brought us out beside two artificial lakes, East Reservoir and West Reservoir, now given over to water sports and nature, and overlooked by some nice-looking new flats.

After a short stretch of road walking along Green Lane, we crossed Clissold Park and exited into Stoke Newington beside St Mary’s Church and the old Town Hall.

Not much call for fountain pen repairs these days ...

When we passed through Highgate, I had wondered whether the route would take in Highgate Cemetery. It didn’t, but Abney Park Cemetery was an interesting alternative: a non-denominational space containing graves of all religions, there are many notable people buried here including William Booth, founder of the Salvation Army.  

Grave of William Booth, founder of the Salvation Army

Leaving the cemetery, we crossed Stamford Hill and began Section 13 of the Ring. For the first mile-or-so, the route took us through the residential streets of one of London’s larger Jewish communities, before bearing off into Springfield Park from where there were great views over to the Walthamstow Marshes. A handy bench provided the chance for a break – just the tonic needed before tackling the final few miles.

The Lea Valley provided the conduit for those last miles. We crossed the river by the Springfield Marina, and picked up the riverside path heading south-east. There was a little mizzle in the air, but the going was easy as we passed pubs and narrowboats and bridges and weirs along the way.

Springfield Marina

Towards the end of the section, the Olympic Park came into view, along with some of the housing and other facilities built for the 2012 games. We won’t pass the stadium until next time, but there has been a fair bit of regeneration of what must have been quite a run-down area.

That regeneration hasn’t stretched to everywhere in the vicinity, though, as the walk along White Post Lane to Hackney Wick station proved.

Back in central London, we popped across to Oxford Street for a spot of Christmas shopping. Talk about a change of scenery! There was a good display of lights, but too many people for my liking. Mission accomplished, we retired to the Exmouth Arms again for a couple of well-earned pints before catching the train home.

It’d been a good weekend – and good use of our last holiday day of the year, too. We’d completed a good chunk of the Capital Ring, which had continued to surprise and delight at regular intervals. Come the New Year, we will be back for more.