A Dash To Dentdale

We have always enjoyed our trips to Dentdale, a beautiful part of the country we have been visiting regularly for over 25 years.

In recent years, our visits have become rather fewer and further between, but the August Bank Holiday weekend provided the perfect opportunity for a brief re-acquaintance and, although more succinct than we would have liked, it was just the tonic we needed after a busy few weeks.

We did a bit of pottering about on Saturday afternoon after the drive up in the morning, but during the next two days we managed a couple of decent outings. On Sunday, we walked from our digs along the Dales Way to Sedbergh and back. 

Rosehips ripening

The rivers were full after heavy overnight rain

Cloud just lifting from the top of Middleton Fell

Although August by date, there was clear evidence that Autumn was fast approaching. Rivers were swollen from recent rains, blackberries were already ripe in the hedgerows, we picked wild raspberries as we went. 

Looking towards the Lune Valley

From the hillside on the way into Millthrop, we could see the restored
Pepperpot building in the grounds of Sedbergh School

Returning through Dent village

Nuthatch on the bird feeder

Monday dawned rather brighter, and we chose a walk that gained height above the dale, affording great views to almost all points of the compass.

Denthead viaduct on a brighter morning

Picking up the Pennine Bridleway

It's a National Trail!

Looking back towards Ingleborough and Pen-y-ghent

View from near the top of Arten Gill

Soaking up the far-reaching views on a perfect day for walking,
with the mountains of the Lake District in the far distance

Dentdale laid out below us in all its glory

Back in the dale, the rivers are quieter today

Sunlight catching the peat-stained waters of the River Dee

Scratchings & Squeakings From An Ill-lit Corner

It’s now mid-December 2014, some two months since my last scribblings (a half-baked rant about energy and wind farms) and even longer since a proper report about walking-related matters has appeared – a short commentary on a long weekend walking bits of the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path.  

Stormy skies above Grasswood from the Dales Way near Grassington

So it’s been a quiet time in this dimly-lit corner of the blogosphere, with nary a sound to be heard but for the odd scratch or squeak every once in a while.

Negotiating Conistone Dib

I must confess that time and motivation for posting to the blog has been in short supply of late, something that has been true for much of the year (and which has also affected the reading of and contributions to other blogs, as well). There have been some notable exceptions – Norfolk, the Peaks of the Balkans and the Camino posts, for example. But, by-and-large, contributions to the blog have been much reduced – around half the number of posts of previous years – and what momentum there was seems to have been lost.

Watching the Wharfe go by

However, a lack of online activity does not equate to a lack of walking or enthusiasm for it: we have been slowly racking up mileage throughout the autumn, and it looks as if we will top last year’s total and post a new best-year-ever figure come December 31^st. 

Weir near Linton Falls

But apart from a couple of weekends away (more of which in a moment) most of this mileage has been accumulated during shorter walks on familiar local circuits – a couple of hours grabbed here and there – and these haven’t really offered enough in the way of new paths, high drama, great photography or worthwhile distance to warrant individual blog entries.

Two weekend trips do stand out, though. Firstly, a budget hotel deal afforded us the opportunity for a brief trip up to the Yorkshire Dales, during which time we walked from Grassington and Bolton Abbey (and photos of which are included in the post). Over the course of the weekend we remained largely dry, inadvertently improved on an established circuit, caught some beautiful autumn colours in the sunshine, and wiped away a tear (not the result of a chill wind but from being relieved of an eye-watering £8 for parking by one of the richest men in the UK).

This information, posted on the gate accessing the path to the Valley of Desolation, did
not appear to be in evidence in the car park. I would have been more than "desolate" if
I'd paid £8 parking only to find there was no access on the moors that day 

The second was a weekend in the White Peak built around a Saturday-night gig in Youlgreave by Whalebone, an entertaining evening of “high energy acoustic music” from talented musicians Steve, Char and Sarah that draws on traditional folk, classic rock and their own compositions for inspiration. If you fancy catching them live or simply want to find out more about the band and their music, further information can be found here:

http://www.whalebone-music.com/

Descending from Simon's Seat

My plan for 2015 is to gradually get back into the swing of things, and hopefully be a bit more active on the blogging scene. I don’t know if it’s just my imagination, but it does seem to have been a quieter year all round, with many contributors seeming to have posted a little less frequently.

Dales Way path beside the river

Some of the biggest subjects have been controversial, too, which made for higher traffic volumes but a less harmonious online outdoor community – important principles to be defended, perhaps, for those involved (and I would probably do the same in similar circumstances) but a slightly unedifying experience for those watching-on from the outside. Whatever the rights and wrongs of the situation, I suspect this is, in part, a consequence of the time of year: as winter is not yet upon us and Christmas approaches, there are simply fewer interesting topics and trip reports to peruse. Hopefully, all will soon be forgotten as next year progresses and the winter walking season gathers pace.

Finally, because it was a lovely afternoon, I'll finish with a few more photos from our Yorkshire Dales weekend - beautiful autumn colours near The Strid.

Great Expectations

Earlier this year – Easter Sunday, in fact – we did a walk comprising upper Dentdale, part of the Dales Way, and a stretch of the Pennine Bridleway above Dent Station. It was a chilly affair, with ice underfoot and deep snowdrifts to contend with, but great fun nonetheless! Details of that outing are:

HERE

In the course of that circuit, we discovered a permitted path over Great Knoutberry Hill and made a decision there and then to come back and tackle it in better weather. Today was that day.

The forecast was good, but, as we set off, the weather tripped a tightrope between summer and autumn. One moment, conditions were overcast, with a cool breeze and hint of rain flecking the air; the next, blue skies and fluffy white clouds predominated, and the sun was warm on our faces.

A reasonable start to the day

We have walked the route through upper Dentdale numerous times: a string of familiar paths and lanes roughly following the course of the Dales Way, walked in all seasons and all weathers. Lea Yeat, Cowgill, Dent Head: places as familiar to us as home, but which never fail to delight.

Steam train crossing the Dent Head Viaduct

Climbing out of the dale towards Newby Head, we turned to watch a steam train cross the Dent Head Viaduct on the Settle-Carlisle line. We fell in with a couple tackling the Coast-to-Coast cycling route, whose forward progress was temporarily moderated by the steepness of the hill. We got chatting: their next overnight was in Thirsk, some fifty-odd miles away, giving them plenty to do in the day. So, as soon as the gradient lessened, they were off again. We wished them well, and turned our attention to more immediate matters.

Newby Head & Three Peaks country

At the junction with the Pennine Bridleway, we turned for home and followed the rising track on to Wold Fell. Being out in the open, the breeze was making itself decidedly felt, so we stopped for lunch in the shelter of a drystone wall with a view overlooking Three Peaks country.

As we were eating, we could see a couple slogging their way over the rough, boggy ground of the adjacent field. Now I’ve got nothing against bog-trotting or off-piste walking in the slightest: indeed, some may say it’s our stock in trade. However, as there was a perfectly good track this side of the wall we suspected they might be temporarily misorientated. This turned out to be so: in fact they had been following the Ribble Way and were looking for the source of the river. Unfortunately, they had ended up on the wrong hill. But no matter: all the paths they needed were in plain sight, and we soon had them on the right track again.

At the top of Arten Gill

The top of Arten Gill marked our departure from the previous route. Instead of following the PBW along the contour, we turned right towards Widdale, then took a left over a stile and on to Access Land, where a semi-clear path meandered beside the wall, assiduously trying to avoid the wettest bits.

Trig point on Great Knoutberry Hill with Wild Boar Fell behind

A steady climb brought us on to the top, where we were confronted with 360° views of the surrounding countryside. At 672m, Great Knoutberry Hill ranks as the sixteenth highest fell in the Yorkshire Dales, something that might explain it’s relative anonymity. It’s no giant, but neither is it a minnow: what it lacks in stature, it more than makes up for situation, for the view encompasses an entire skyline of more sexy summits – the Three Peaks, Great Coum & Crag Hill, Calf Top, The Howgills, Wild Boar Fell and Great Shunner Fell to name some of the more alluring.

Cairn on Pike Edge with Ingleborough behind

A pair of tempting looking tarns lay just to the north of the trig point, but our route took a westward bearing to descend over Pikes Moss, where a series of cairns marked the line of Pikes Edge.

Some cairns are quite large

Below Pikes Edge, we rejoined the Pennine Bridleway, made our way to the Coal Road and descended into Dentdale past Dent Station. We took a short break by the bridge at Lea Yeat, then followed the Dales Way back to the start.

As described, this circuit might be a bit heavy on road walking and a bit light on hill time. But it suits us as we can do this from our digs without moving the car, and at 14.25 miles plus around 890m of ascent/descent it’s a pleasantly satisfying day out.

Looking over upper Dentdale

To my mind, upper Dentdale is beautiful. However, I know others disagree, citing the road walking between Dent Head and Lea Yeat as one of their least favourite sections of the Dales Way. I guess it will always divide opinion. But one thing I think can be agreed upon is that Great Knoutberry Hill is a superb vantage point for Dentdale and the surrounding hills.

Rather like the bass player of the band, who is often overshadowed by the singer, the guitarist and even the gonzo drummer, it is a stalwart whose contribution would be missed if absent.

Why not see for yourself?

Easter In Dentdale – Day 3

Upper Dentdale & The PBW – approx 14.35 miles

Sunday March 31st 2013

Map: OS Explorer OL2 – Yorkshire Dales Southern & Western Areas

Dentdale – Ewegales Bridge – Lea Yeat – Stonehouse – Cowgill – Dent Head – Newby Head – Pennine Bridleway (N) – Dent Fell – Coal Road – Dent Station – Lea Yeat – Ewegales Bridge – Dentdale

Another chilly morning dawned, this time without the mitigating warmth of the sun. So it was under slate grey skies that we set off up the dale.

Suffering no ill effects from yesterday’s outing, we felt we were beginning to get back to something like proper fitness again. Considering what we have coming later in the year, this is good news! But we wanted another reasonably testing outing – one with a mix of distance and difficulty – to satisfy ourselves we are close to being ready for consecutive full days on the trail.

The first part of the walk was a trundle up the dale – essentially following the Dales Way via Ewegales Bridge, Lea Yeat and Cowgill to Dent Head viaduct. Some Dales Way-ers decry this part of the route, claiming that the lengthy road walk detracts from the experience as a whole, and instead take a higher route via the Craven Way from Ribblehead across the flanks of Whernside. But we (and others, happily) are of the opinion that Upper Dentdale is a unique place with a special atmosphere, and worthy of its place on the route.

Anyway, I digress.

Pottering up the dale is easy enough going. In compensation there is plenty of “countryside” in evidence to add interest to the journey – including some of the more arcane practices.

Later in the walk, we came across Crows tied similarly to the fence. Presumably, they are killed because of a perceived threat to young lambs, but I must admit I thought this type of practice – at least as far as Crows are concerned – had pretty much died out?

As if we needed any reminding, winter is still proving hard to shrug off: what little water there is still subject to its icy grip.

Just below Dent Head viaduct we paused for a quick break, glad of the chance for a hot drink and a quick bite. A bite of a different kind came as we passed under the viaduct and out on to the more open ground of Blea Moor – a powerful, icy wind nipping at any uncovered skin. Jackets were donned.

At the junction with the Pennine Bridleway we turned for home. Climbing away from the road along the stony track, with snow-capped Pen-y-Ghent and frozen Ingleborough visible away to the south, it was as if we had suddenly been transported to Narnia or the arctic tundra of the far North.

Soon, though, the hard work of the day was to begin in earnest. As we rose higher, the snow became deeper and the going more energy sapping. By the time we reached the top of Arten Gill we were ready for another break, so we found as sheltered a spot as we could, made more hot drinks and ate our lunch.

The next section – below Great Knoutberry Hill, as far as the Coal Road – made for a real wintry experience. The prevailing winds, funnelled along the dale, had driven the snow into sizeable drifts.

Plenty of fun was had floundering through the drifts. For some reason we found the gates easier to negotiate than usual, and the low-level signage provided a different perspective.

On reaching the Coal Road we found the way over to Garsdale completely blocked to traffic by the drifts. How long this might take to clear is anyone’s guess, but it’ll be a while if the temperatures stay as low as they have been.

We turned the other way. A trundle down the road, past Dent Station, and down the steep incline brought us into Lea Yeat. Sitting on a handy wall, we took another break for food and drink – and mobile phone retrieval: fortunately snow prevented a wetter or more inelastic landing.

From Lea Yeat it was a straightforward potter back along the Dales Way.

With miles in our legs and time on our feet in the bank, and some great time in the great outdoors, it had been the perfect weekend - if a bit on the cold side!

Easter In Dentdale – Day 1

Firbank & The Lune Valley – approx 7.35 miles

Friday March 29th 2013

Map: OS Explorer OL19 – Howgill Fells & Upper Eden Valley

Firbank – Fox’s Pulpit – New Field – Whinny Haw – Stocks – Goodies – Dales Way (N) – Crook Of Lune Bridge – Lowgill – Lakethwaite – Old Scotch Road – Firbank

I was beginning to think Easter would never come. Since our last trip north about a month ago, the days – at least the weekdays – have flowed by like treacle: viscous and slow. To top it all off, the forecast during the previous week had predicted such foul, wintry conditions that we were concerned we wouldn’t be able to get anywhere near our digs even if we tried: so much so we had even contemplated hiking in if necessary.

In the end, there was nothing to worry about. Blue skies and bright sunshine greeted our mid-morning arrival, and the snow-capped Howgills were looking at their best. It was bitterly cold, though – something that would be a common theme all weekend, and which made us constantly aware of the juxtaposition between winter and spring in which we found ourselves.

After a stroll along the lane past Fox’s Pulpit, we cut across the fields to pick up a track past Whinny Haw. Away to our right, views extended beyond the Howgills to Middleton Fell, Great Coum, Whernside, and the other high fells in the area.

As we descended towards Stocks, we picked up something of an entourage, and for a few minutes we were quietly but purposefully followed at a distance of about two paces. It was quite comical, really: when we stopped, they stopped; when we moved on, so did they. What’s the time, Mr. Wolf?

After a short road section, we took a field path that dropped steeply down below Goodies, and crossed the dismantled railway line to reach a bridge over the River Lune. I don’t think we have ever seen it with so little water in – much of the riverbed seen here is usually under water.

Beyond the bridge we connected with the Dales Way. Heading north, we followed the undulating path along the riverside, passing across pasture and through woods, stopping briefly for lunch by a rocky beach. Despite the pleasant conditions, the Bank Holiday and the fact we were on a major walking route, we saw few people – no problem, really, as peace and quiet were being sought. Ambling along in the sunshine, it was easy to imagine that spring was almost upon us.

From Crook Of Lune Bridge, we followed the Dales Way further, along the lanes, beneath Lowgill Viaduct and on through the hamlet. Road, river and rail all pass through here, taking advantage of a low pass through the fells, and you are always aware of the them – not least the nearby M6. But filter out the drone of the traffic and the scenery more than compensates – especially the views back to the Howgills.

Beyond the motorway, the Dales Way heads off into the eastern fringes of Lakeland (and succumbs to a change in character which we found not entirely to our liking when we did the whole route a few years ago). Today, though, we kept to the lanes, and made our way back to the car.

For a short, half-day walk, this route passes through quite varied scenery. Being near to the motorway, is a good option if you are travelling to or from the area, and the views of Lune Dale and the surrounding fells – particularly the Howgills – are excellent.