Thursday 26th
September – Qorës Summit of Mt Çika, Llogora NP
Total Distance:
5.60 miles / Total Ascent: 1250m / Total Descent: 1250m
It was back to earth with a bump this morning, for an
ascent of the 2005m Qorës peak of Mount Çika. Looking at the stats – low
mileage and moderate ascent – belies how tough a day this actually was: it was
good fun and very rewarding, but hard work nonetheless.
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Mount Çika: our route ascended the wooded ridge (right hand side) to the
saddle (just right of centre) then followed the curving rib to the summit |
We began, as usual, with an early breakfast. Fortunately
raki, at least in moderate quantities, doesn’t seem to lead to a hangover (if a
tumblerful can be considered a “moderate” quantity). Perhaps its undoubted
purity is a blessing in disguise – or maybe I’m just getting worryingly used to
the stuff!. Either way, there was no adverse reaction to the fried eggs and
sausages served up for breakfast (alongside the usual bread, honey, yoghurt,
tea and juice – all of which went down quite well).
A quick minibus transfer took us back to the top of the
pass. Starting the day at a whisker over the 1000m mark definitely gave us an
advantage. On the other hand, we had another 1000m to do, so any thoughts about
taking it easy were rapidly dismissed.
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| Looking out to sea over the Karaburuni peninsula |
We began by picking our way up a clear path into the
woods. The first part of the trail was very reminiscent of many a mid-altitude Alpine
trail, winding up through the woods on a rocky path, sometimes steep and always
climbing, but perfectly manageable at a modest pace. With legs in first gear
and brains in neutral, a steady rhythm was adopted.
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| Winding up through the woods |
It was a cool morning. An 8.00am start had given us the
chance to avoid climbing in the midday heat, but by 9.30am, the early brightness
of breakfast time had given way to a thick, swirling mist rolling in off the
sea. So, as we set about gaining height, we were limited to mere hints of the views
we might have enjoyed, although every now and again we could catch a glimpse of
coast or mountain peeking through the cloud.
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| The Karaburuni peninsula as seen from near the saddle |
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| At the saddle with our objective behind |
After climbing for about an hour and a half, we reached a
saddle at around 1500m. As luck would have it, the mist kept away while we were
there, so we had the full benefit of the views, especially northwest along the
Karaburuni Peninsula and south along the main ridge on Mt Çikës.
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| Starting the climb from the saddle in swirling mist |
Ahead lay another 500m of climbing, this time on much
steeper ground. The first part wasn’t too testing in that a fairly clear path
led up from the saddle. But that soon dissolved into a network of feint grassy
ledges, animal tracks and dead ends that before long fizzled out into nothing
more than pathless mountainside.
By now the gradient was such that upward progress was reduced to a slow clamber. Loose scree, grass and earth, covered in a slippery carpet of dry pine needles, twigs and cones, made real the concept of two-steps-forward-and-one-step-back. Energy was often wasted pushing against the frictionless surface, and the constant need to skirt rocky outcrops and dead trees slowed us yet further.
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Four legs good, two legs bad - even with poles
(Photo courtesy Gent Mati/Outdoor Albania) |
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As steep as it looks, with loose rocks and dead trees adding to the difficulty
(Photo courtesy Gent Mati/Outdoor Albania) |
Hindsight showed we had got a little to the right of the
best route, but eventually we gained the summit ridge and walked the final few
steps to the top. The views were fantastic. Fortunately, the cloud billowing up
on the seaward side of the mountain was non-existent on the landward side.
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The view that greeted us on reaching the summit ridge
(Tërbaç just to the right of centre) |
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| Looking southwards along the summit ridge |
Reward for our efforts came in the form of wonderful clear
views into the Shushica valley, with Tërbaç almost directly below us, Kuç in
the distance across the valley and the Lightening Mountains behind.
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| Reaching the summit |
Way below us in the foreground, Sunday’s conquest – the St
George Pass – looked surprisingly low and insignificant, dwarfed as it was in context
with the surrounding peaks. Then there were views along the ridge and away to
the south, as well as those over the coast and out to Corfu. Magnificent!
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| Ridge after ridge of mountains away to the southwest |
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| Relaxing by the summit cairn |
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Reasons to be smug #3: summit panorama
(Photo courtesy Gent Mati/Outdoor Albania) |
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Group at the summit
(Photo courtesy Dan Painter/Walks Worldwide) |
The descent was almost as tough as the ascent. With so
much loose stuff around, it was difficult not to dislodge rocks and inadvertently
send them hurtling down the mountainside. As with the climb, concentration was
required for EVERY step – having seen for ourselves once before what can happen
when melon-sized rock meets human being, we were fully aware of the danger this
represented to those below.
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| On the descent |
Eventually, though, we were all safely back at the saddle,
with nothing worse than a couple of blisters amongst the group to show for the
experience. Here we met up again with Russ, who had opted not to try for the
summit but instead decided to monitor our progress from the half-way point.
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| Woodland flowers #1 |
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| Woodland flowers #2 |
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| Woodland flowers #3 |
The remainder of the walk was relatively straightforward.
Retracing our steps on the more gentle descent through the woods, we soon made
it back to the restaurant, where well-earned, leisurely beers glued dusty
smiles on to our faces, and a relaxed contentment set in. A walk like this can
seem hard at the time – even unpleasant. But the real rewards come afterwards,
when one can look back and revel in the thought of a challenge met, of
difficulties overcome and of effort rewarded. And those views!
Actually, it was a cracking walk!
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| Having a rest: even Piotr has run short of energy |
Back at the hotel, we opted for a rest before dinner and a
drink with Russ, Pete and Anne before the meal was served. Tonight we had soup,
beef roulade with a savoury stuffing, potatoes and salads, cheese and bread,
with a delicious honey-flavoured cake for desert. And a little bit of raki, just
for good measure.
