Zermatt September 2015 - Day 7

Trift from Schwartsee

20.86km / 727m Ascent / 1697m Descent

On our walk back from the Schonbielhutte a couple of days ago, we had intended to walk via the area known as Trift - a walk that follows a high level balcony path and offers refreshments at the Hotel du Trift mountain hotel.

Bad weather deterred us from tackling it then, but it was still on the agenda in better weather, and much better weather forecast for today presented us with that option.

The track down from Schwartzsee towards Stafelalp: looking
across to where we would later be walking

There are a number of ways of reaching Trift, but our preferred way is to take the cable car to Schwartzsee, walk down to Arbenbach via Stafelalp, and follow the Edelweiss trail to Trift before descending back to Zermatt beside the Triftbach stream.

Beneath the Matterhorn

It was a wee bit chilly as we alighted at Schwartzsee, but the skies were blue and clear as we began our descent beneath the north face of the Matterhorn - for once, this holiday, clearly visible in all its glory in the early morning sunshine - firstly on a wide track (muddied by the construction work on the new Hirli skilift) then by path across the slopes to Stafelalp and track again through the hydro works in the valley bottom.

Arbenback waterfall

We reached the start of the Edelweissweg at Arbenbach after about an hour and three quarters, and stopped for a rest and first lunch, admiring the scenery.

Looking towards the head of the valley, with the path
to the Schonbielhutte bottom right

The climb up to the balcony path is steep and lengthy, but it levels out after about an hour or so into one of the best paths in the area - great views all round, easy going underfoot, and with enough precipitousness to give it an edge and the possibility of rockslides to add a frisson of excitement. In other words, a proper mountain path.

A proper mountain path

Although mostly safe, a head for heights helps in places, and the knowledge that one wrong step could result in a lengthy fall (ending on the rooftops of Zmutt 700m below) is cause for concentration to be maintained.

Zmutt looking very small way down in the
valley, with Monte Rosa massif behind

At Hohbalmen, there is a junction with the very steep path from Alterhaupt, but we carried on along the contour path towards Trift. The hotel soon comes into sight, but there is work still to be done: a steep, loose zigzagging path of 300m descent means another half hour or so before arrival.

Rounding the corner: Hotel du Trift looking very small in
the vast cirque beneath the Aschhorn, Furgghorn,
Platthorn and Mettelhorn summits

Then its cake time!

Resting outside the Hotel du Trift whilst waiting for apple cake

Hugo is a very welcoming host, busily circulating amongst the guests. The hotel only opens in the summer season, and was due to close tomorrow for the winter. Still, he had 39 booked in for an overnight stay! We had also thought about staying here instead of the Schonbielhutte, and it has much to offer with good food and good company. Maybe next time, eh?

This time we had apple cake (still in the oven at the time of ordering) a bowl of vegetable soup whilst waiting, and beer/coffee to go with it, and enjoyed a restful and relaxing hour before beginning the descent back to Zermatt. 

The steep path down to Zermatt 750m below runs on
both sides of the Triftbach stream

It's quite steep, and gets steeper as you go down, but is a very fine way to end another good mountain day, and a couple of hours later we were back at the flat making dinner (pasta, broccoli and cheese sauce) before rest and relaxation to end the day.

Zermatt September 2015 - Day 6

Gornergrat, the Glacier and back to Zermatt

19.38km / 482m Ascent / 1933m Descent

The morning began with a better forecast than of late, so we took the opportunity to take the mountain train up to Gornergrat and see what conditions were like.

Even if you're not into walking, the ride up to the Gornergrat is something to look forward to, as some of the best views in the area are to be had during the trip. It passes through a number of village stops on the way up, until reaching the complex at the top. If the word complex sounds misused, it's not: there are souvenir shops and a cafeteria style eatery, plus chances to have your photo taken with a St Bernard dog complete with medicinal brandy barrel round its neck.

Ridge behind the Gornergat complex

Despite all the retail opportunities presented to us, we opted only for a coffee before setting off. The view point to the rear of the complex is great for studying the surrounding mountains (including the Matterhorn) but it also acts as a stepping off point for a good walk.

The first part took us along the ridge towards Hohtalli, an undulating rocky path that allows you to get your breath (you are at about 3100m altitude here) without too much difficulty. Though the forecast had shown promise, we were having a real mix of conditions: clear blue skies and views one minute, mist and low cloud the next. Oh yes, and snow!

Snow!

This set the tone for much of the day: sunny and clear, or misty with little snowy pellets like the polystyrene granules you find in packaging.

Alpine plants beside the path

From the ridge, a path leads down towards the Gornergletscher. It's very steep and comes with a warning: one false step, and the next human contact you have may be when you pop out of the glacier in a few hundred years’ time, an archaeological curiosity like Otzi the Iceman.

On the descent: the blue and white marking
indicating the path difficulty

Care was taken, and about an hour later we were on the lower path, heading for the toe of the glacier. I've mentioned before that this is an amazing place, especially for anyone with an interest in geology, glaciology or simply the raw power of nature. The Gornergletscher is fed by no fewer than 7 main named glaciers, with the peaks of the Breithorn, Castor and Pollux, and the Monte Rosa massif rising to around 4500m behind.

By the toe of the glacier, big summits behind

We had lunch overlooking the glacier, watching as some parties were readying themselves to walk out on to it. The weather was behaving itself, and we were just happy to gaze in awe at this beautiful but frightening place.

Looking down on to the glacier

We retraced our steps to the path junction, and carried on along the glacier-side path, high above the ice, until we reached the Riffelsee - a small lake beside the Riffelhorn that on a good day reflects the Matterhorn in its still waters. By now, the weather had closed in and snow was falling, and we can report that on a bad day, it looks like pretty much any other cold mountain lake.

Approaching the Riffelsee with the
Matterhorn behind

Between the Riffelsee and Riffelberg, the misty, snowy weather continued, so much so that we struggled at first to find the path to Riffelalp. But find it we did, and headed down, through the village and past the station, to pick up the zigzagging path down to Zermatt. It's a fair descent, and is hard on already-tired knees, but the switchback path through the woods is lovely - especially as the weather brightened up and the sun came out. We even had an unexpected treat on the way down: we were resting at one hairpin, looking at the view, when a huge eagle soared past and circled for a few minutes.

Eagle spotted here - on the last descent to Zermatt

The last couple of kilometers through Winkelmatten and into Zermatt are hard going with tired feet and knees (it's quite a tough walk) but soon we were back at the flat and ready for a good meal, a game of Scrabble and some rest.

Zermatt September 2015 - Day 5

Sunnegga 2 Ways: A Gourmet Feast

1) 8.75km / 159m Ascent / 779m Descent

2) 7.61km / 178m Ascent / 731m Descent

It was another wet and windy morning, and we were debating what to do when we heard that the higher level lifts were all closed because of the winds (the same, I think, as yesterday).

A bit of quick thinking ensued: why not go up to Sunnegga, walk down one way, go up again and walk back another way? So that's what we did, and threw in one of our "must do’s" as well - a gourmet meal at Chez Vrony.

Blue skies, sunlight, rain & snow - a mixed bag of weather

Alighting at Sunnegga for the first time, it was immediately clear that although there were spits of rain in the air, we had picked the right bit of the valley in which to walk - everywhere else looked terrible!

First off, we picked up a contour path towards Tufteren. Part of the Blumenweg - the flower trail - this was, last time we were here, also the route of the Europaweg, but it appears a recent rockslide has obliterated the path and closed it off. Much work might be needed for restoration, if indeed it is safe to restore it - this area is known for being a bit geologically unstable.

Cowberries

The section we walked was easy going, with beautiful views across the valley and interesting plaques about the various flower species. Some were already over, but others, like the harebells, were still flowering, and the crowberries were still wreathed in oodles of berries for the birds.

Tufteren

At Tufteren, we began to descend on a track swinging back and forth across the hillside as far as Patrullarve, then picked up a track down to Reid, where we stopped at Ottmar's to avoid the sharp shower that squalled across the valley, and where we were forced to purchase coffee and apricot cake to take advantage of the shelter (perfect timing, you might say).

Wild raspberries

Continuing, we followed a very enjoyable path through woods and across meadows back to Zermatt and the bottom station of the Rothornbahn, ready to ascend to Sunnegga once again.

Eggen in the rain - a frontier feel

Exiting the lift for the second time that day, we were again greeted with a rain filled atmosphere, which this time turned to proper precipitation. We headed down past the man made Leisee, passed through Eggen, and dropped into the area of Findeln known as Ze Gassen, where Chez Vrony is located.

Veal in herb cream sauce, potato rosti & vegetables

Unusually empty, we took the opportunity to eat at this popular and renowned restaurant. It may or may not be the best restaurant in the area, but it certainly good - especially if, like us, you like proper food with a bit of extra refinement (none of this Cordon Bleu or Nouvelle Cuisine malarky).

Bacon-wrapped meatloaf, fig compote, crushed potatoes & vegetables

We had a caviar pannacotta amuse-bouche (on the house) to begin with, main courses, a glass of wine and coffee and liqueurs afterwards. We had promised ourselves this treat, again for our anniversary, and enjoyed it thoroughly.

Ze Gassen beneath clearing skies

Then it was back on the trail – time to walk off these excesses! From Ze Gassen, we crossed the river and descended to Zermatt on the south side of the Findelbach.

During our early evening stroll (3.70km) we went to the pictures - just like our first date! The local cinema shows a couple of films every week about the history and stories surrounding the Matterhorn - this one, filmed in 1955, follows the ascent by a young American woman and her local guide - very much of its time, but very interesting and entertaining too. 

Zermatt September 2015 - Day 4

Shonbielhutte to Zermatt & the AHV Weg

13.93km (am) & 5.88km (pm) / 366m Ascent / 1428m Descent

After a long night, interrupted at frequent intervals by the buffeting storms outside, we woke to find conditions a little calmer, if not much drier. By 7.30am, we were pretty much packed and ready for breakfast - Museli, bread, cheese, jam and coffee drunk from a bowl.

By the time we were ready to set off, the wind had dropped a little although it was still raining pretty hard. However, we had decent gear with us, so we battened down the hatches, said goodbye to our host and fellow “hutters” and headed out into the deluge.

To be honest, with reasonable waterproofs both top and bottom, walking in the rain wasn’t too unpleasant. Down the zigzags, past the moraine, along the path, and we were back at the Arbenbach in a little over an hour.

Our original plan was to take the high level path from here to Trift, and descend beside the Triftbach to Zermatt. As we “um”-ed and “ah”-ed at the junction, the rain seemed to relent, but in the end we decided to keep to the lower path, We knew the route we were taking was narrow in places with some serious drops into the valley, and was therefore incompatible with a windy day.

Striped rocks in the river bed

Keeping to the north side of the valley, we made our way towards Chalbermatten. A re-routed path passed through an area of moriane that was being recolonised by scrubby plants and stunted trees. The original path under the cliffs had been swept away by a rockfall a few years ago and, if we are being honest, the new path probably has more in the way of interest than the old one did.

Path through the moraine

We reached Zmutt in about 3 hours, and having been on our feet all that time decided we needed a break. So we popped into a nice restaurant for drinks and a sit down, but resisted foodie temptations. A window had been propped open to vent the smoke from the open wood fire, and although a chill wind blew in and we didn't really get warm and dry, we were glad of the break.

The last section was an hour or so into Zermatt and back to the flat to get dry and warm again.

Checking the map on the AHV-Weg

As the afternoon wore on, the weather improved, so we popped out again for a short walk around the edge of town - the AHV-Weg. It was a pleasant little circuit taking about an hour-and-a-half at a leisurely pace. We just about kept dry and came home via the shop where we topped up on groceries.

A wise old bird and a wooden sculpture

Dinner was leek and chorizo risotto again, with yoghurt and grapes for afters. We had lots to drinks too to rehydrate, and spent the evening playing Scrabble, writing notes and reading.

Zermatt September 2015 - Day 3

Zermatt to the Shonbielhutte

16.03km / 1469m Ascent / 367m Descent

Today is our Silver Wedding anniversary! Well done us!

To mark the occasion, we had decided we would spend the night at a mountain hut, and the Shonbielhutte seemed the best of the options available - a reasonable distance away, with several route variations to choose from so it wasn't simply a there-and-back walk.

It was reasonably warm and bright as we set off on the first stretch - the climb through woods and meadows, via Zum See, to Furi.

Zum See on a sunny mroning

From Furi we headed west in the shadow of the Matterhorn, past the dam and towards Stafelalp on the southern side of the valley. The going was pretty easy. We took a slight detour from out intended path to reach a slightly higher level path with better views that also avoided the construction works of the new Hirli chairlift that is being built. This alternative path proved quiet and very pleasant - a track through woods - and we saw black squirrels and a nuthatch along the way.

Below the north face of The Matterhorn near Stafelalp

We had half intended to have a break at the restaurant at Stafelalp, but we kept on along the same path and somehow managed to miss it. No problem: we took a break by a small bridge and ate our sandwiches there.

The next section took us across the valley past the hydro-works - not perhaps the most attractive scene, but quite interesting to see how the natural energy resource is utilised.

Arbenbach waterfall #1

Arbenbach waterfall #2

Arbenbach waterfall #3

Our next objective was the waterfall near the Arbenbach, a very noticeable feature. We zigzagged up the side, pausing halfway to exchange photos with a passing mountain biker. Just over the top, we took our second lunch break and had half an hour dozing in the sun as well.

So we know which way to go

Heading further up the valley

Glaciers by the Dent d'Herens

Path along the lateral moraine

The final leg of the day led beside the glacier, basically following the line of the edge of the moraine. Cloud was building slightly as the Schonbielhutte came into view. It was only about 30 minutes away - but about 200m higher, and perched on a rocky outcrop opposite the towering north face of The Matterhorn.

On the final zigzag

Nearly there .....

We arrived and made ourselves known, although we were the only ones there, and only 5 were due to stay overnight. No problem, we settled in for beers and games of Scrabble to while away the remaining afternoon.

Our three companions arrived about an hour later – wet through, as by now it was raining quite steadily - two German men and a Swiss woman. At first they huddled round the stove, trying to dry out and warm up, but conversation gradually ensued.

Dinner was at 6.30pm - vegetable soup, Bratwurst, pasta and salad main, with meringue for afters - filling and warming and just the job, as by now the weather was worsening, with strong winds and heavy squalls strafing the hut.

Inventive use for skis in the summer

We went to bed about 8.30pm. For our 25^th wedding anniversary night, we had a room to ourselves - just the two of us in matratzenlager (mattresses on the floor) in a wooden attic, with strong winds and heavy rain battering the building all night long. Although duvets were provided, it was very chilly, so we slept in all our clothes to keep nice and warm – a very different scenario to that of 25 years ago, and one which will be memorable if not conventional! 

Zermatt September 2015 - Day 2

St Niklaus to Stalden via Kalpertran & Emdt

20.10km / 1110m Ascent / 1444m Descent

This morning we took an early train down the valley towards St Niklaus, a modest town about 35 minutes away by rail. In the Zermatt area, it is so easy to look upwards, but we had been impressed with the potential of this area as we passed through it on our arrival transfer, so decided today to explore down the valley.

Low cloud hung in the valley as we set off, but blue skies and sunshine beyond promised at least some good weather. And so it proved: in Zermatt it rained all day, so we probably got lucky in finding the best that was on offer.

Hops growing in the hedgerow

Alighting at St Niklaus, we had no map, no book and no pamphlet, and only an outline plan of what we might do. So we looked at the signpost outside the station building and opted for the path to Kalpertran about 90 minutes away.

Metal pathway between river and rail

Road, river and rail

A nice, undulating path followed the river downhill, mostly through woods: at times peaceful and quiet, at others picking up noise when road, rail and path wove closely together in the steep sided gorge.

Waterfall

Lop-eared sheep

Arriving in Kalpertran, we headed for the station and, we hoped, information about where to head next. And so it proved: we found a handy panorama board and leaflet showing paths and villages up on the west side of the valley, and we cobbled together an itinerary of sorts from them.

Kalpertran

The sign reading “Emdt 1h 10min” looked most promising, and we followed it as it zigzagged steeply up the cliffs for a while, eventually popping out on a sunshine meadow some 500m higher.

Climbing towards Emdt

Approaching the church, Emdt

A large, modern church in a small, old village

A large, newly-built church greeted us as we entered the village, and we stepped inside for a few minutes before the lure of refreshments proved irresistible. Calling in at the Restaurant Morgenrot, we chose coffee and Apfelstrudel. 

Restaurant Morgenrot - poor weather over Zermatt behind

The coffee came quickly, but our order was behind that of a large group of cyclists who had all ordered something different, and we were getting a bit annoyed at the delay. We were just about to give up when it and profuse apologies arrived – and it was well worth the wait!

The next stretch was a contour path around towards Torbel, another reasonably sized village about 75 minutes away. We walked along roads and paths, past little farms with cattle and sheep grazing, and there was a much more pastoral ambience than that in sports-mad Zermatt.

Approaching Torbel

From Torbel, we needed a path down to Stalden. Our panorama plan showed a couple of options, and we followed the one we selected pretty well, with only a couple of "location malfunctions" along the way. It was a steepish decent - some 700m – but we got down in plenty of time to catch the early evening train back to Zermatt.

Start of the descent towards Stalden

I popped to the shops for supplies, Missy G headed back to base to start the dinner – a very acceptable leek and chorizo risotto. After dark, we took a stroll to see if we could see the Matterhorn memorial lights – a series of lights installed on the mountain to highlight the route taken by Edward Whymper and his team on the first successful ascent 150 years ago and part of this year’s anniversary celebrations. Plenty of people were out looking, but low cloud meant a “no-show” in the end (2.5km).