Peaks Of The Balkans: Albania, Montenegro & Kosovo - Day 9

Day 9 – Kukaj & Pyramid 18

8.66 miles / Total Ascent 1452m / Total Descent 1267m

We had the regulation early start again this morning, even though some of the group had been out till all hours watching the World Cup final (nearly midnight, I'll have you know). 

Beautiful morning in Rrogram

So we were again underway by 8.30am, on what was a promising morning of blue skies and early sunshine. A pattern of nice early, cloud and/or rain later had established itself over the preceding few days, and we hoped this would be the day that bucked the trend and remained sunny all day.

Outside our guesthouse, readying to leave

View back towards Valbona

Looking eastwards down the valley

Braided channels in the dry riverbed

The first stretch of the day was along a beautiful woodland path climbing the side of the valley on the way to the small hamlet of Kukaj. I say small: if it had two fewer houses, it wouldn’t exist at all! It’s in a gorgeous spot, though, and we were all looking forward to spending the night here.

Tahir's farm, Kukaj

More of that later, though. For now, we had the serious business of walking to do. We followed the car road into the valley before branching off on a woodland path to gain height. It was about here we reached last time, on a very hot, lazy day, when we ended up sitting beneath the trees to read and snooze.

The way through the woods

This time we had a more distant and much higher objective in mind, so we carried on. One major difference between the two visits was that sometime in the last three years there had been a significant rockfall, a massive landslide that had affected a wide swathe of woodland and caused the path to be re-routed.

Rockfall: wouldn't have liked being there when that happened

We zig-zagged upwards, through woods and across meadows, until we reached a small shack sited at about 1600m. We stopped for drinks and chatted to the owner for a while.

Chatting with the locals during a rest stop

Pushing on, we moved over rockier ground on a steep switchback path that followed a gully up to the ridgeline. Alpine flowers lined the path, and Alpine Choughs skimmed chattering overhead.

Alpine flowers #1

 

Alpine flowers #2

The ridge marks the border with Montenegro, and the path crosses it at a point known as Pyramid 18 (approx. 2000m). Although there is currently no evidence of the trig-point-like border post to which the name refers, a small cairn seems to mark the spot.

Pyramid 18 on the border, with Montenegro behind

Beyond the pass, the path descends into Montenegro, eventually bringing the hiker to Vusanje, but our route simply retraced our steps back down to Kukaj. We had hoped to have lunch at the pass, but the familiar pattern of clouding over as the day progressed had played again, and rain (or even thunder and lightning) looked more than possible.

Alpine flowers #3

Alpine flowers #4

So we descended for half an hour or so, before finding a grassy spot to eat our sandwiches. Fortunately the rain kept off, but it is better to be safe than sorry as far as mountain weather is concerned.  

Mountains and grass #1

 

Mountains and grass #2

In increasing sunshine, we descended past the shack, across the meadows and through the woods, heading back to Kukaj where we are spending the night in one of the village’s two farms.

Descending to Kukaj past more evidence of the rockfall

Looking back on our day, from the gate of Tahir's farm.
Pyramid 18 is in the notch in the skyline just right of centre

Tahir, the owner, welcomed us in the traditional way – fulsome handshakes, tea, coffee, and raki – as we sat in the shade of the covered decking.

Our room

We are all sleeping in the same room tonight, so it was good that there was time for everyone to set out their stuff, make their beds and take a shower before dinner.

Burek: delicious, but as filling as it looks!

We sat outside on the decking, making the most of the last sunshine and warmth as we ate our meal. Tonight's fare was vegetable soup, followed by Burek (a dough-like dish made in a coil and flavoured with cheese and wild herbs, served with drinking yoghurt - salads and a sweet Turkish-style dessert for afters. A great end to a day low on miles but high on everything else!

Peaks Of The Balkans: Albania, Montenegro & Kosovo - Day 8

Day 8 – Thethi to Rrogram via the Valbona Pass

10.27 miles / Total Ascent 1449m / Total Descent 1176m

The Big Day was upon us. Or at least that is how it is pitched. Somehow the crossing of the Valbona Pass has reached an almost mythical status: a tough trek, and one that embodies all that is good about trekking in this area. Don’t get me wrong: it shouldn't be underestimated, but in truth it was no harder than several other days on the route, and one that would be well within the compass of most regular hillwalkers. 

A much brighter morning: view southwards from the guesthouse

And, having done it once before, we already had an awareness of what to expect. It’s undoubtedly a long road journey to get to the same place by vehicle, so most travelers need to take themselves and their luggage as well, something that usually requires the assistance of a mule team.

Setting off in the sunshine

The morning dawned bright, and filled us with a guarded optimism after that last couple of days of iffy weather. We were away, with mules loaded, by 8.30am, and although nowhere near as hot as last time, it was certainly warm enough for that time of the morning.

Distinctive Mt Arapit dominates the view to the north

From track to path, flat to steep, we began to climb, and the distinctive summit of Mt Arapit – entirely hidden in clouds during the previous two days, including when we passed right by it crossing the Peja Pass – dominated the skyline to the north.  

Flower-filled meadows on the way to the Valbona Pass

The route winds steadily upwards – sometimes steep, sometimes steady - through cool woods and flower-rich meadows threaded by butterflies. We took our time: after all, the scenery was worth it, and to rush on such a sublime morning would have been sacrilege.

Tony relaxing in the sunshine

The path was familiar, albeit that it was three years since we had last been this way. So what struck me as we climbed was how much had changed in such a short space of time. Certainly the infrastructure has improved, and – by the look of things – accommodation has increased in both quantity and quality. OK, this may not be universal, but from what we could see bridges, guesthouses and paths had all undergone refurbishment.

I must be dreaming.

Around three-quarters of the way up, we came across an unusual sight. Three years ago, this would have been a mirage. Now, this vision ahead that looks like a bar is a bar! We stopped for a drink and to fill up our water. As it happened, though, they also had Fli, the traditional pancake-based dish so beloved in northern Albania and Kosovo. So we had to have some, just to check if it was as nice as we remembered.

Enjoying some of the popular layered pancake-like Fli 

Although I was happy to take advantage of the facilities, I felt a sense of disquiet, too. Enterprising it most certainly was. But appropriate? I’m not so sure. I mean I know that tourism will bring changes, and that life is hard in these parts, so any form of income is vital to the community as is anything that helps to keep that community together. But I couldn’t help think there was something not quite right about it, too: that in an area whose main attraction to visitors is its remote feel and pristine nature, a line had been crossed in some way. Is that wrong of me?

At the top of the pass

The remaining climb to the top was completed in about an hour, so around 3.45 hours after setting out, we were standing at the pass. Unlike last time, we had a little energy left to climb a rocky knoll for fine views into both valleys during lunch.

View into the valley, with cloud rapidly building

What was also clear from our viewpoint was that the sunshine of early morning had given way to dark clouds to the west, and that rain was on its way. So we didn’t linger, and managed to get the first, steep part of the descent behind us before the rain hit. Sometimes steady, sometimes a deluge, we progressed carefully through the rain: although the path was not so steep, there were still sections where a slip could occur – something we hoped to avoid.

On the first part of the descent

We kept going down – past other new bars, and on to a waterlogged track in the valley bottom. For a few minutes the rain came very heavily, then – just as we were contemplating taking shelter in a nearby bar – it relented enough that we opted to carry on.

The Valbona valley is an unusual place, strewn with loose rock and boulder fields that tumble down the mountain sides, and unlike anywhere else I can think of. Judging by the amount of loose rock, there must be a hell of a lot of water flowing down the mountainsides in the spring thaw, and erosion here must happen at an alarming rate. The car road here simply cuts across this scree, and is in reality just stones and pebbles compressed into something approaching a passable surface. Still, it meant we were on track, and gave us something to follow as we headed for Rrogram.

Walking the car road along the valley floor

Last time, we had overnighted at a modest hotel sited at the point where the boulder field gave way to the gravel road to Bajram Curri. Now this road has been asphalted, and the hotel is several times bigger than before. It was also heaving – "build it, and they will come" - more people than we had seen since Shkodra! So we moved swiftly on, took once more to the riverbed car road, and reached our guesthouse a mile or so further on.

View back from near the guesthouse as the clouds lifted

Cozy, well-situated, with nice rooms (3 to a room, with en suite shower rooms) and a warm welcome, we had time for tea in the garden before a rest and a clean-up before dinner – one of the best so far, with a delicious soup to begin with, grilled goat with salads and potatoes, and watermelon for afters.

That evening was the World Cup final between Germany and Argentina, and in the corner of the dining room was a large TV. As kick-off approached, the generator was coaxed into life, and we all sat expectantly round the screen. Sadly, though, the generator wasn’t quite up to the task. A few tiny lights is one thing, but powering a large TV something else entirely, and after a couple of false starts, it finally admitted defeat after about 20 minutes. Some trotted off to a nearby bar to watch the rest, but we called it a night. After all, it was 9.30pm, so well past our bedtime!

Peaks Of The Balkans: Albania, Montenegro & Kosovo - Day 7

Day 7 – Thethi, Nderlysa & The Blue Eye

14.00 miles / Total Ascent 700m / Total Descent 700m

The skies were still overcast this morning as we set out on a “gentle” circuit of some of the highlights of the valley. Rain threatened, but so did blue skies: a mixed set of messages that would remain ambiguous throughout the day.

Overcast start

There is no doubt that things have moved on since our last visit here, as a trundle through the village showed. Many of the houses are looking tidier and in better condition, and the old, rickety wooden road bridge has been replaced by a new, stronger concrete one. In many ways it has lost a little of its “last outpost” romance, but life here is tough, and anything that connects the village better and more safely to the outside world has to be a boon for the locals.

New church, rebuilt in 2006

Our first stop was the Catholic Church, originally constructed around 120 years ago but re-built in 2006. Unfortunately it was locked, so we couldn't go in.

Blood Feud Tower

Then we moved on to the Kulla, or Blood feud Tower – a famous landmark in the valley. As before we were shown round, and the history of the place was explained by Endrit, who also shared some personal family stories about the Kulla, notions of family honour and blood feud, and the influence of the centuries-old oral code of over 1,200 articles of conduct and law – the Kanun of Lek Dukagjini. This ruled on all aspects of life – land, marriage, the role of women, crime and, especially, honour – including murder, which gave rise to the notorious blood feuds in which tit-for-tat killings of males from each family could continue until there are no surviving men. Although these were heavily discouraged during the communist regime, there are still thought to be some 150 blood feuds in existence today.

Walking beside the irrigation channel

After reflecting on these tales of honour and revenge, we moved on, taking care not to incur the wrath of any locals. We followed a rising path alongside an irrigation channel, as we made our way towards the Grunasi Waterfall.

Grunasi Waterfall

Next, we followed a snaky path down to the river on our way to Nderlysa. Not snaky in a sinuous, zig-zaggy way, you understand: all paths round here are like that. No, snaky in the sense of an abundance of slithery, bitey reptiles. Rather unnerving! In the end, though, we only saw one snake (tiny) and one slow worm (dead).

Beautiful mountain torrent

Anyway, we made it unscathed to the river, and crossed by the main road bridge. Just then we bumped into the Polish motorcyclists we’d seen a couple of days previously in Vermosh. Their trip was over: the roads had taken their toll on the bikes, and they were being evacuated to Shkodra for repairs.

We, on the other hand, carried on into the village, to pass the guesthouse where we had stayed three years previously. Endrit got talking to the chap, and once he realized we had been before we were immediately invited in for caj and raki. We ate plums from the orchard, got talking to a Dutch couple who were staying there, and spent a convivial hour chatting about this and that. Meeting the family again was an unexpected treat, and one which made our day.   

Guesthouse from July 2011

Moving on, we took the path into the Kapreja valley heading for another Blue Eye – a beautiful, cold pool and waterfall. Last time, we had swum here: this time, with a much lower air temperature, it was just too cold. It was, quite literally, breathtaking. Matt had a brief swim, and declared the water to be fairly freezing. Or at least it sounded something like that. I just sat in the water this time, up to my nethers in the icy waters – which, to be honest, was enough.

Blue Eye #2 (Albania)

For the return to Thethi, we re-traced our steps back to Nderlysa, then followed the car road on the west side of the valley, crossing into the village over the new concrete bridge. 

New concrete bridge

In truth, we were quite tired, for although not a tough walk, it was long enough. There was time for a quick beer and showers before dinner – bean soup and salads, plus a lamb and potato dish, with watermelon for afters. Then we all sat round the campfire for beers and conversation – a great way to end the day.

Peaks Of The Balkans: Albania, Montenegro & Kosovo - Day 6

Day 6 - Vusanje to Thethi via the Peja Pass

12.00 miles / Total Ascent 1000m / Total Descent 1500m

After a quiet day yesterday, a more demanding one beckoned this morning: from Vusanje in southern Montenegro, over the mountains via the Peja Pass, and down into the Thethi valley - a trek of some 8 hours plus stops.

Early morning over Lake Plav

Our driver arrived on time this morning, and soon we had loaded up and set off for Vusanje in the Ropojana Valley, the starting point of our trek. On the way, we saw a Hoopoe to add to our slowly increasing tally of birdlife - this striking, colourful bird a symbol, we hoped, of superb weather developing. Sadly this was not to be: from a 50/50 start with some promise, the weather in fact deteriorated into a wet, gloomy day with limited views - a shame for such a significant day's trekking.

Blue Eye #1 (Montenegro)

Our first port of call was a spring pool marked as Oko (Eye) on the map. It looks inviting - and is, in a way - but it is freezing cold, so makes a better spot for collecting chilled drinking water than for swimming. Bottles filled, we made our way back to the trail.

Show us a sign, a glimpse of the future ...

This sign may not look much, but it is the reason we are here. We visited this same spot last July during our Montenegro & Kosovo trip, and seeing it had quite an effect on us both. I wrote at the time:

"To be honest, seeing the name Theth on the signpost proved a rather emotional moment. Realising we were less than a day’s trek away from where we had spent a fantastic time just two summers' ago exerted an almost magnetic pull ..."

There and then, it seems, we made a vow that one day we would come back to complete the walk and make the link. Now, barely a year later, that day had come, although at the time we had no idea it would be so soon, if at all. And, coincidentally, we would be arriving in Thethi on 11th July - the exact same date we arrived there the first time three years ago. Coincidences, connections, compulsions: I'm a firm believer that if things are meant to happen, they will.

Waiting for the mules

Another thing I believe is that things are far more easily said than done, and there was work still to do if we were to make Thethi by the end of the day. Hard work, as it turned out, as the muleteers we were supposed to be meeting were not in evidence, so the for the first three-quarters of an hour we flogged up the road in deteriorating conditions with both day packs and full luggage while Endrit sped ahead to try to find them.

Mule and muleteer

In the end, it simply came down to a misunderstanding about exactly where our rendezvous would take place - an easy enough discrepancy under the circumstances. Soon, though, we were all united, the mules were loaded, and we were on our way once more.

Mule train

Unfortunately, the rain had set in in earnest, and mist prevented us from seeing the impressive summits that line the sides of the valley. Still, we got "atmospheric" in a big way, as well as wet, and somewhere round here we passed the toppled border post that signalled our return to Albanian territory.

Looking back from near the top of the pass, mountains hidden in mist 

Once off the track, the trail rises in a series of steps: sharp climb, followed by flatter area, followed by sharp climb. During a brief drier spell, we stopped for lunch, then carried on. As we approached the pass the climb steepened, the ground became rockier, and soon we could look back over our route so far and at the mist obscuring the mountain tops.

Rocky mountain way

The next half an hour was spent following a convoluted route through bumps and hollows of shattered rock, and marked a change between the relatively easy-going paths so far and the stonier ones to come. Eventually, though, we came to the flat corridor that marks the top of the pass at around 1700m.

Peja Pass - 3 years ago we reached this point from Thethi on a boiling hot day

We knew from before that the descent to Thethi was steep, rocky and festooned with loose stones. Last time we were here, though, it was incredibly hot - 40C was recorded in Shkodra in the shade that day - so today's visit was markedly different, being probably about 15C.

Views into the Thethi valley from the top half of the descent

We set off down the path into the Thethi valley. Normally, this would offer amazing views of the valley and the surrounding peaks: today, though, the sight was more akin to that of a wet November Tuesday in England.

Views into the Thethi valley from the bottom half of the decent

We did eventually descend below the cloud, although the drizzle continued - as can be gleaned from the rain-smeared photo above. The mules were less bothered by the lack of views, but didn't like the relentlessly steep, loose path - one lost a shoe - so we were all quite relieved to reach the relative safety of more level ground in the valley bottom.

Arriving into Thethi

It was good to be within sight of our destination as we plodged the last mile or so into the village. We were to be staying two nights in Thethi, so at least there was a chance to dry out wet clothes and get warm and comfortable.

We were intrigued as to where we might be staying in the village, given the relatively few options encountered last time. Somewhat to our surprise, we found it was the same place as last time. Very much to our surprise, we found it was now three times the size and much smarter than before (when it was a much simpler breeze-block-and-corrugated-iron-roof affair). It just goes to show how tourism is affecting even the most remote places.

Our accommodation in Thethi

The same guesthouse 3 years ago

The rooms were nice (we shared 3 to a room) with en suite bathrooms, and we were able to scrub up and dry out. We were also treated to a great dinner - grilled lamb, salads, bread, coleslaw, and watermelon for afters - and beers, too!

For some reason, we were all early to bed.