Norfolk Coast Path - Day 1

Hunstanton to Burnham Deepdale - 13.00 miles

We first hit on the idea of walking the NCP after a very enjoyable weekend visit to north Norfolk last summer (details of which can be found HERE). We were much taken by the area, and made the decision there and then to return and do the full coast path sometime in the future. 

Often such promises take a while to fulfil, if indeed they are fulfilled at all. But, only eight months later, we found ourselves alighting the Coasthopper service at Hunstanton bus station, and making the acquaintance of some of the locals. 



Not sure if you can park there? 14 chicks on a visit to Hunstanton bus station

We'd set off early: a pre-6.00am start this time signalling the beginning of something exciting for a change, and not work. Arriving in Burnham Deepdale, we parked the car and had time for a coffee before catching the bus to Hunstanton. The plan was to walk the path from a base at Wells-next-the Sea, using a mixture of car and Coasthopper service to link the beginning and end of each day's walk. Even allowing for the reduced service on Sunday and Bank Holidays, it was an arrangement that worked very well, allowing a good deal of flexibility to each daily schedule.



The official start: gardens above Hunstanton cliffs

The official start is only a couple of minute's walk from the bus station, and - despite blue skies - there was a brisk, chilly wind blowing and a hint of rain in the air: think "looks like summer, feels like winter" and you won't be far off.

Sandy paths behind the beach huts

Soon, we left the cliff-top behind us, crossed a parking area and picked up a sandy path running behind the beach huts near Old Hunstanton. Despite the chill wind and blustery conditions, there were a fair few people about: some hunkering for shelter behind stripy wind-breaks, others making and altogether different use of the conditions.

One way of enjoying the conditions: a great day for windsurfing

Near Holme-next-the-Sea, the Norfolk Coast Path connects with the Peddars Way and together they form one of the 15 UK National Trails that tempt walkers from far and wide. The name hints at it's walking past, and is said to derive from the Latin pedester meaning "on foot", whilst the route itself runs arrow-straight for 46 miles to Knettishall Heath, near Thetford, following the route of a Roman road (although one school of thought suggests a pre-Roman origin, possibly an extension of the Icknield Way ancient route). 

Junction of the Norfolk Coast Path and the Peddars Way

Beyond Holme, boardwalk led the way through the dunes, helping to prevent unnecessary erosion and providing easy walking. As we were to discover, dunes form an important part of both the coastal ecosystem and sea defences: grasses bind the dunes together and prevent the sand from simply blowing away, although over time dunes can and do migrate.

Near Holme-next-the-Sea

Of course one of the key attractions of north Norfolk is the bird watching, with numerous sites of national and international significance to be found along the coastal fringes. The area is home, temporary or otherwise, to a huge variety of wildfowl, waders, sea birds and the like, and it wasn't long before we were reaching for the binoculars as we passed through the Holme Dunes NNR near Thornham. Over the course of the 4 days we were to encounter a number of unfamiliar species (including a couple of new ones - of which more later).   

Little Egret

Beyond Thornham, the route heads inland for a few miles. The countryside it passes through is nothing more exciting than archetypal agricultural farmland, and of no particular note. I suspect it is because no feasible route exists close to the sea, and it needs to skirt the Titchwell Marsh Nature Reserve. However it does make a change from sticking entirely to the coast, and adds to the surprisingly varied scenery encountered along the way.

Heading inland: offshore wind farm visible on the horizon

Just visible on the horizon is one of the numerous offshore wind farms to be found hereabouts. Interestingly, they all tend to be rather poetically named "shoal" or "array" (eg: Sheringham Shoal) as if calling them an offshore wind farm is somehow an embarrassment ... 

Arriving in Brancaster

The inland loop describes three sides of a square, and after around three-and-a-half miles brings you out in Brancaster. The route crosses back to the north side of the A149, then follows a line behind the houses along the edge of Brancaster Marsh.

Reeds against the skyline

By now we were nearing the end of our day's walk. The blue skies of earlier in the day had been replaced by solid overcast grey, and there was a threat of rain in the air. Not perhaps as much as during the recent winter, when rain and bad weather conspired to wreak devastation to some parts of our coastline, not least round here.



An indication of the damage caused during the winter floods

Finally we reached Burnham Deepdale, and popped out on to the road to collect the car. We'd covered 13 miles - not too bad considering the relatively late start - and found a bit more variety than we'd perhaps expected.

That evening, we made short work of a fish and chip supper, then hit the hay before the sun had set.

The Way We See Things

I’ve seen God.

At least, I think it was Him: with piercing gaze, trademark long hair and big, bushy beard, He looked just like He does in all those Renaissance paintings.  So it must be true, right?

Cleverly, though, in order to pass unnoticed through His people, he had swapped the traditional flowing robes for a faded sweatshirt and jeans, and instead of descending triumphantly to Earth by the traditional conveyance of a cloud, heralded by Cherubim and Seraphim and backlit by celestial light, He opted instead for a Y Reg red Fiesta.

Perception. The way we see and understand things can be affected by so many factors: quality of information, assumption, learning, stereotyping, or – sometimes – just a simple misunderstanding of the facts.

Before last weekend, if anyone had asked me how we were doing on the mileage front compared to late March any other year, I would have said we were well down. Lack of time and poor weather for the first few weeks must have impacted on our total. With evidence like that, it must be true - right?

Climbing out of Carding Mill Valley

But today's walk of 10.75 miles has nudged us over the hundred-mile-cumulative mark, and this puts us pretty much slap bang in the middle of the spread of totals from previous years.


Last Sunday we took on a circuit we have done several times before - from Church Stretton, on to the Long Mynd via Carding Mill Valley, over Pole Bank, down Minton Batch and back on a lower route of field paths and lanes through Little Stretton.

As we began our climb out of Carding Mill Valley, the schizophrenic nature of the day's weather showed itself: one moment we were bathed in spring sunshine, the next we were assaulted by winter sleet and hail.



Looking to Corndon Hill, with snow capped Cadair Idris just visible on the horizon



But by the time we had reached the top, conditions had settled and a gradual improvement to the day commenced. The walk along the top of the Mynd is easy enough, with good, clear paths all the way, and sections of metaled road in places. However, despite the ease of progress, the views remain excellent, and we could see not only the summits of the nearby Stretton Hills but further afield as well: enough to see that some of the other tops were getting a squally shower – and a light dusting of snow capping distant Cadair Idris.



Descending into Minton Batch

By the time we began our descent, spring had returned, and layers required to keep rain and wind at bay were hastily shed. Minton Batch is an attractive clough, and one of the quieter ways off the hill: still subject to the odd strafing by MTB riders, but comparatively peaceful for the most part. The only downside is the farm at the bottom: as we have commented before, the owner must have lost all sense of shame and self-respect, and – if anything – it was a worse mess than last time we passed: this being a matter of fact, not perception.

What a mess: since our last visit, a selection of three clapped out old
tractors has been added to the collection

More mess: black plastic wrapping hanging from skeletal tree
branches like huge dead bats

The final stretch passes along lanes and via fields through Minton and Little Stretton before meeting the road back into Church Stretton. Despite a relative lack of “match fitness” we were pleased to see our moving speed and walking time stats compared quite well to our norm, so perhaps we are not as far behind other years in that respect, either. 

Perception: it just depends on how you look at things. In this case, wrong about our achievements so far this year, but right about that farm!

 

Psychological Wharfe Air (2)

Well, at long last! After what seems like an eternity, we’ve finally got out into the countryside for a proper walk. You know the sort of thing I mean: a boots-and-rucksack-on, plodging-over-the-fields-and-climbing-a-hill type of proper walk. And, rather like the proverbial buses, one was very closely followed by the second.  

Weir by Linton Falls - much less water than last time we were here

And it wasn’t just the wet weather that had left us woefully short of outdoor time since Christmas. With each of us in a new job, and each in possession of a hefty workload, we couldn’t lay the blame purely at the soggy start to the New Year. OK, we’d set sail across some sodden fields on a couple of occasions, but to be honest it had been something of a relief to reach the shore. We'd also had the odd trundle round the local lanes to chalk up a few miles, but on the whole 2014 to date had been rather unsatisfactory.


Until now.


One Friday night each March, I make a sortie up north to support a friend in raising money for their local cricket team. It’s an evening of roast beef, beer and blokey ribaldry, which, these days, is usually followed by a hangover of notable proportions. As an antidote to this bout of "fundraising", Missy G and I have taken to making a weekend of it by spending a couple of days walking in the Yorkshire Dales. This year was to be no exception, and a favourable forecast has us champing at the bit to spend some quality time outdoors.

Couldn't have put it better myself: sign on Linton village green

 

Seeing double? Two little ducks. No, hang on, that's not right ....

Saturday saw us on one of our regular circuits from Grassington, a 9 mile outing starting off along the Dales Way, dropping down to Conistone via the Dib, then skirting through Grass Wood and descending to walk alongside the Wharfe, before looping up to Linton to return by Linton Church. Conditions were slightly overcast, but it wasn't long before my own personal cloud cover had been shifted by the breeze, and we soon fell into a gentle rhythm, enjoying the fact of being out there once again after such a lengthy lay-off. 

Sunday again started somewhat overcast. From Bolton Abbey, we climbed towards Simon’s Seat via the Valley of Desolation (a misnomer if ever there was one: this is a great path, full of interest and with plenty of wildlife for company – Brown Hares, Rabbits, a Mandarin Duck, Chaffinches, and a pair of Goosander) then out on to the moors of Barden Fell where Red Grouse were our frequent companions.

Waterfall, Valley of Desolation

 

Valley of Desolation - not to be confused with the Slough of Despond,
which is of course in Berkshire 



Looking back across Barden Moor, Ilkley Moor in the far distance (hat optional)

You ain't seen me, right?

After first lunch, a step descent down to Dalehead Farm returned us to the valley, and we soon picked up the Dales Way. By now, sunshine had broken through, and it was a lovely, warm spring afternoon. We took second lunch sitting on the riverbank, soaking up the warmth, before the final stretch through Strid Wood and back to Bolton Abbey. All in all, it was a pretty good 10-miler – and one which we will more than likely do again.

Simon's Seat from the descent: new erosion control measures in the foreground

Dales Way, near Barden Bridge. In summer, this area is covered in parked cars

The Strid

In a nutshell: spring had sprung, and we were lucky enough to be there when it happened.

Berghaus Freeflow 20 Daysack

OK, confession time: since the end of last year, we have done very little walking. And, with the dual constraints of work commitments and weather conditions, much of that has been confined to short skips round the local lanes - an hour here and an hour there, grabbed as and when we could squeeze them in. So, whilst we haven't had much in the way of excitement to report, we have at least kept ticking over, readying ourselves for when things improve and the need to google "kit list for ark excursion" recedes.

However, despite the limitations of time and meteorology, what I have been able to do is put a recent acquisition - a Berghaus Freeflow 20 daysack - through it's paces, albeit rather gently to date (in fact, both Missy G and I have been trying it out, but more on that later).





Front view showing zippered front pocket and walking pole attachments

The Freeflow range has been around in one guise or another for some time now, and is very much a staple of Berghaus's daypack collection. Notable mainly for a back system which keeps the sack away from the back to aid ventilation and reduce sweating, there are a number of differently sized options designed for a variety of different uses, from quick trundle to lightweight overnighter. Over the years, the range has gained plenty of fans (although, to date, has not counted either of us amongst them).

 

At 20lt, this is the smallest size in the range. For a variety of reasons, we would both normally use a slightly larger capacity for year-round, day-to-day use - it's what we are used to and what we prefer. So rather than measure the Freeflow 20 against our personal preferences, I'll try to assess it objectively and treat it for what it is - a small, lightweight daypack. 





Side view showing back system and mesh side pockets

In fact, for a small pack, the Freeflow 20 is quite well endowed with features, with an inner and outer zipped pocket, side mesh pockets, an internal hydration bladder sleeve and tube outlet, walking pole attachments, adjustable waist and chest straps, and a stow away rain cover. This is what Berghaus themselves say about it:  http://store.berghaus.com/p/day-sacks/freeflow-20-rucksack/434556
 

In use, the first thing to note is that it is very comfortable. Admittedly, there is a limit to the amount of stuff you can load into a 20lt bag, but what it can hold it does seem to carry well. There is an adjustable back system, which means we were able to get a reasonable fit for both me (5'10) and Missy G (5'1) without too much difficulty, whilst the chest strap adjusts to accommodate both the male and female chest area anatomy.





View of back system showing padded, ventilated shoulder straps,
lumbar padding and adjustable chest and waist straps

There is also a webbing waist strap, rather than a padded hip belt. This is for stability rather than supporting any load - because the pack is short, the waist strap sits much too high to rest on the hips (even in Missy G's case). In any event, the small capacity of the bag means it is unlikely there would be sufficient load to warrant weight transfer to the hips anyway. Both chest and waist strap have an elasticated section to aid comfort and ease of use - a simple, but effective addition.

The main compartment is accessed via a large all-round zipped entry, giving a wide access to the bag which makes it pretty easy to get everything in and out. This means there is no lid like on some rucksacks - and hence no outer lid pocket - but there is a small zipped pocket inside the main compartment suitable for valuables like a wallet or keys (there is a key clip inside). Also inside is a sleeve to accommodate a hydration bladder and an outlet for the drinking tube (which is centrally placed to allow the tube to pass easily over either your right or left shoulder).



Wide all-round zippered opening, showing internal zippered pocket,
sleeve for hydration bladder, drinking tube exit and grab handle 

On the outside, the bag has a pair of stretch mesh pockets (one either side) each large enough to take a 1lt drinks bottle or small flask. There is also a vertical zippered pocket with a mesh pocket inside - an unusual combination I've never seen before, which even the Berghaus website doesn't mention or describe what it was intended for. However, it proved quite useful for storing the things you might want quick access to (although note that things can fall out quite readily if you forget to zip it up properly!).



View inside front zippered pocket, showing mesh retaining pocket

The back system is good, both in terms of comfort and allowing a flow of air to mitigate against a sweaty back. The bag is kept away from direct contact with the back by a combination of a stiff, pre-curved panel and a taut mesh panel which create a fixed gap to maintain airflow.  This is assisted by the shoulder straps which have holes in the padding to reduce weight and aid ventilation.

In general, the system does work quite well in this respect, but there is a downside in that the pre-curved back is a bit of a hindrance when it comes to packing the bag. In earlier, larger models this was quite pronounced: not quite so much here, but it is a smaller bag and the volume/ability to get stuff in and out is slightly compromised. Other manufacturers do seem to have less issue with this, whilst still providing a successful "airflow" type back system. It's a small niggle, but ought to be solvable and is the only real negative to an otherwise perfectly good product.

On the plus side, the zips run freely (something I have a bit of a bee in my bonnet about), and the zip pulls are large enough to operate even when wearing gloves.

Finally the bag features an integral rain cover, which is stored in a pocket at the base of the bag. My personal preference is to use a waterproof liner as I think it is more reliable in nastier weather, but the rain cover here seems good enough to keep moderate rain out. A reasonably snug fit can be achieved so it doesn't flap around too much in the wind (although I haven't tested it in anything more than a gentle breeze).

Pros:

Well made from quality materials and components.

Comfy to use, with ventilated shoulder straps and airflow back working well.

Plenty of useful (if sometimes unusual) features.

Tidy and well thought out, looks good too.

Cons:

Capacity and ease of access slightly reduced by curved back.

Perhaps a bit too small for a full day outing or a winter trip.

Conclusion:

In general, this is a lovely little daysack - well made from quality materials and components, and with some nice touches. Although I have one or two minor niggles with the Freeflow 20, all in all it's a very nice product that should last for many years, and if you are looking for a solid daysack for summer use (or shorter trips where you just need a drink, some food and an extra layer) at an affordable price, you would be hard pressed to get anything much better.

As mentioned earlier, for a full day out both Missy G and I prefer a slightly roomier bag, but in the right circumstances I can see us getting quite a bit of use out of it.

NB. The Berghaus range has a number of different sizes and styles available. For more information go to www.berghaus.com



 

Something Of A Curate's Egg

As far as Missy G and I are concerned, 2013 will go down as something of a curate's egg of a year. There were definitely some good parts - very good, in fact, with some memorable trips - but, outside of the walking, there were some less good bits that happened along as well. I won't bore you with details of the not-so-good bits, but the good included our trip through Montenegro & Kosovo, hiking in southern Albania, and an excellent week along the Camino de Santiago from the Pyrenees to Logrono, as well as a number of great daywalks.

As a result, we had been accumulating mileage quite well, and by the middle of October we were making great strides towards topping last year's figure of just under 740 miles, racking up our best ever annual total along the way. However, the brakes were applied somewhat during the last few weeks of the year as I found myself in a bit of a predicament - firstly unceremoniously chucked out of work, then in a temporary role until Christmas - and with an understandable change of priorities as a consequence.

Nevertheless, we kept plodding along whenever we got the chance, and duly reached our new best ever at the beginning of December. Soon afterwards, we passed a cumulative 6000 miles since we began recording our annual mileage back in 2005 - a statistic that I commented on in a previous post - and it seemed from there on like we would cruise gently towards the end of the year. At this point, it hadn't occurred to us there was another milestone hoving into view: that of 800 miles for the year. It was a long shot, but it just might work!

Entering the festive break, we took our boots everywhere and put them on at every opportunity. Bit by bit, we crept nearer the goal, until, the day before New Year's Eve, we found ourselves heading north for our now-customary get together with friends in Dentdale. What followed was two days of eating, drinking and celebrating by night, and sloshing through muddy fields in the pouring rain by day. And it was muddy, and, boy, it did rain: at one stage I wasn’t sure whether we were walking north, south, east or west, but we were definitely walking upstream.

 

But, by the time we'd reached Sedbergh on New Year's Eve afternoon, we'd done the necessary, and pased the 800 mile mark by a whisker. Mission accomplished.  For warmth, and by way of celebration, we squelched, dripping, into Duo cafe, sank a huge pot of tea, shared the last piece of (appropriately named) orange drizzle cake, and reflected on another year of walking as we tried to dry out and not leave mud on all the surfaces with which we came into contact.

Once again, we saw the New Year in with good friends, great food and a quality Rioja. And, it has to be said, an improved positivity. We'd finished the year on a high note, hitting our target with only hours to spare, and I'm looking forward to starting a new, full-time job next week. We have also heard some exciting news on the walking front (but more on that if it comes off). All in all, it looks like 2014 already has much to commend it!

Bring it on!

Linton Falls

Weir between Linton & Grassington

Muddy trousers!

Playing With New Technology

Hopefully, if I have any idea of how this gadget works, this should be the first post using our new tablet. Eventually, we hope this will allow us to blog on the go, which will be very useful especially on longer trips.

 

Anyway, Boxing morning in Usk was bright and sunny and not too cold, as can be seen from the accompanying photo. So we went for a brisk six-miler to walk off the Christmas dinner and build up an appetite of sorts. A beautiful morning, and well worth the effort!

 

An Odd End To The Year

Quite unintentionally, and to my detriment, it’s been a blog-free end to the year. I hadn’t intended for things to tail off as they have done, but you don’t always get a choice in the way things pan out. Stuff happens: you deal with it, you move on. 

However, I didn’t want to sign off for 2013 without wishing all readers, regular and otherwise, a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year! And, for those of you who blog yourselves, I promise I’ll try to catch up with all your missives over the festive break.

Anyway normal service (or what passes for it!) will be resumed again next year. In fact, rumour has it that Santa might be delivering a shiny new tablet, so Ambles & Rambles may be dragged kicking and screaming into the modern era at last! Blogging on the go: now there’s a thought to conjure with, and I’m looking forward to testing it out before trying it in earnest during the bigger trips of next year.

 

I’ll round up the end of year stats early in January, as we’re hoping to clock up a few miles over the Christmas break. However, we’ve had a great year, and set a new annual record into the bargain - now that can't be bad, whichever way you look at it!

 

Before I sign off, I’ve just time to report a bit of weirdness. We were out walking yesterday, when – quite out of the blue, and a propos of nothing at all – I wondered out loud what our cumulative mileage might be for all the years since 2005 (the year we started regularly logging our walking stats). Despite recording our annual total, this cumulative count was something we hadn’t checked before. A quick bit of mental arithmetic had me guesstimating we might soon be approaching the 6,000 mile mark, a landmark it would surely be worth celebrating when the time came.

 

When we got home, we added our day’s mileage to the annual total, and added our annual totals together, and – you know what’s coming here, don’t you? – found we had actually passed the 6,000 mile mark during that very walk, round about the precise time it occurred to me to check.

 

Spooky, or what?

 

I’m no advocate of the paranormal – rather, I’m inclined to the opposite view, allowing pesky things like facts and evidence to get in the way of a decent  “unexplained” event – but it was an unusual coincidence, if coincidence it was!