A Quick One (or Two) .....

This weekend, like last, we were busy entertaining, so, as well as all the usual chores that needed doing everything had to be ship-shape in time for our friends’ arrival, with the kettle full and dinner preparations well underway. Even though I was all-to-easily distracted by the appearance of a pair of Spotted Flycatchers in the garden, everything was ready in plenty of time and we were looking forward to enjoying a relaxing couple of days.

However, this did mean our scope for walking was slightly truncated so we had to adjust our plans accordingly. With only an hour or so to spare, one of the most rewarding objectives is Roundton Hill, a modest top with a big personality that punches well above its weight.

From the Nature Reserve car park the path zig-zagged steeply up the hill where far-reaching views can be found from its craggy summit. The recent lengthy spell of fine, warm weather was forecast to break after the weekend and cloud was already building in preparation, but even on such a day the 360º panorama included the Long Mynd, the Stiperstones, Corndon Hill, the Berwyns and the Kerry Ridgeway, with Snowdonia and the Brecon Beacons visible in better conditions.

In a strengthening breeze and with the threat of rain in the air we descended the steep path on north side of the hill and joined the lane that led back round towards the Nature Reserve. Later that evening, we went into Bishop’s Castle and stumbled across the Real Ale Festival – an unexpected surprise to find an even wider selection of excellent beers than usual.

Next day, after a lazy morning, we walked a short route from Little Stretton to Carding Mill Valley and back. It was sunny again, and hot; the humidity only just held in check by the breeze. But it was good to be out and getting some fresh air, added to which we discovered one or two new paths that we might be able to incorporate into a longer circuit in future; a nice relaxing couple of days to see us through the week ahead.

Second Time Around

Sunday morning, and once again we were in need of a modest walk. So what better than another spin round the same walk as last week?

It is often commented upon how rewarding it can be to experience the same walk at different times of the year. But we only did this one seven days ago – could anything have changed in such a short space of time? It was gearing up to be another warm day with blue skies and fluffy clouds, but we were up and off early despite having been barbequing and carousing until the wee small hours. A noticeable breeze helped to quickly blow away any lingering cobwebs, and we were soon into our stride enjoying the early fresh conditions.

The most obvious change from last week was that there was much more growth everywhere. Fields of leguminous crops were now up to 5ft or more in places, and the wheat and barley were much more advanced. The few overgrown sections were tangled even thicker, with one stretch lined hip-high with nettles and brambles. Grass fields had been cropped for haymaking - another sign that summer had arrived and testament to the dry spell we have been experiencing.

In fact we have had little in the way of meaningful rain for several weeks now, and the ground is beginning to suffer. In one stretch, where the path through fields of wheat had been cleared by spraying, deep cracks in the earth an inch or more wide were clearly visible.

An unexpected benefit of the mown fields was the sighting of hares. Denied their usual cover we spied at least 2 in one place and 5 in another, right out in the open and clearly visible. For several minutes we watched from a distance what appeared to be a family group playing in the sunshine – special moments indeed.

So, in the space of one week, it seems as though we have swapped the tail-end of spring for the start of summer.

Rutland: Belton to Braunston – approx 9.00 miles

Saturday 1st July 2010

Rutland: Belton to Braunston – approx 9.00 miles

Map:

OS Explorer 234 Rutland Water, Stamford & Oakham

Starting Grid Ref:

SK816012

Route:

Belton – Leighfield Way – Leigh Lodge – Prior’s Coppice – Wood Lane – Braunston in Rutland – Church – South Lodge Farm – Bridle Way – Bluestones Farm - Belton

Services:

Pubs: Belton and Braunston
Cafés & Kiosks: None
Shops: Belton
Transport: Belton and Braunston

Weather:

A beautiful, bright morning, with blue sky and a little fluffy white cloud, becoming increasingly warm as the day developed.

We arrived in Belton-in-Rutland nice and promptly to take advantage of the cooler weather of the early morning. It was already quite warm with the prospect of temperatures up into the high 20º’s Celsius; in full sun it would be 30º plus, plenty warm enough for walking. So this easy circuit of around 9 miles would be ideal given that we had other obligations for later in the day.

We left Belton, passing the church and the war memorial, and heading north along the Leighfield Way, a short, marked route, linking Belton with Oakham some 7 miles distant. Branching right at the road fork we followed the lane signposted to Lambley Lodge. There are dozens of such lanes in Rutland, gradually petering out into the countryside. Soon lane would became track, track would cede to bridle way, and bridle way to path; a couple of fields later and the process is reversed as the next village reached.

The lane rose gently over the first mile or so. Soon tarmac became bridle way with softer going underfoot, steadily climbing until, cresting the brow of the first ridge, a wide vista opened up in front of us, a vale ringed by low hills. Rutland County Council adopted the Latin motto “Multum in parvo” – literally “Much in Little” – and this is certainly true of the landscape in these parts, a perfect example of rolling English countryside.

Between hedges high and thick with foliage, we dropped down along a cinder track to cross the infant River Chater by the impressive farmstead of Leigh Lodge. Although slow-moving, the river here teemed with fish - heron heaven I would imagine. After climbing diagonally northwest across a field we took a brief drink stop and carried on across the fields past Prior’s Coppice and down towards Braunston, a pretty village straddling the River Gwash dating back to at least mediaeval times and steeped in history and home to the Braunston Goddess – a curious carved stone effigy with similarities to the Sheela-na-gig or Divine Hag of Celtic religion that may have been to ward off evil.

A convenient bench by the church provided an excellent spot for a snack. Our route continued through the churchyard past the unusual church with its low, square tower and oddly-mounted clock. Several fields were crossed; some with ripening crops, some scruffy with grass and nettles, and we spotted several Peewit and a Green Woodpecker. After passing behind South Lodge Farm the path rose again to the ridge and we briefly joined a bridle way heading east, stopping for lunch by a gate offering a view back over the vale, with Braunston lying in the bottom.

While we were resting, a small band of horse-trekkers jogged by, reminding us that, once again, we had been largely untroubled by other people. This seems slightly odd as although the high proportion of tracks, lanes and bridle ways in these parts might not be to everyone’s taste, there is no doubting the charm of the scenery, so typical of Middle England and in many ways the rival of the Cotswolds.

We carried on in a generally southerly direction, soon joining the Leicestershire Round (a route devised to mark the centenary of the Leicestershire Footpath Association) and re-crossed the River Chater. A short pull past Launde Park Wood brought us to the top of the hill where we paused to catch our breath in the warm sunshine.

With Belton’s attractive houses hunkered round the small rise ahead of us, our path then dropped to meet the lane at Bluestones Farm, from where it was an easy stroll back into the village. All in all, it had proved a good walk – perhaps with a little too much on lane and track to be ideal, but with plenty in the way of views and interest to offset that – ideal for a good long morning or, split either side of a leisurely lunch in Braunston, an easy day.

Proud Songsters

Came across this poem by Thomas Hardy

Proud Songsters

The thrushes sing as the sun is going,
And the finches whistle in ones and pairs,
And as it gets dark loud nightingales
In bushes
Pipe, as they can when April wears,
As if all Time were theirs.

These are brand-new birds of twelve-months’ growing,
Which a year ago, or less than twain,
No finches were, nor nightingales,
Nor thrushes,
But only particles of grain,
And earth, and air, and rain.

Weather Hot - England Not

So, after spending half of my valuable weekend shut away in a hall at some conference I had to attend, I awoke on Sunday with just one thought - how to squeeze an entire weekend into one day? A tricky enough question at the best of times but what, on what was set to be the hottest day of the year so far, would fit the bill?

Rising early provided part of the answer – a quick breakfast and a walk before things became too hot. We chose a regular local circuit that we enjoy: nothing too strenuous and no need to burden ourselves with unnecessary maps, just a pleasant route on lanes and field paths. Also we decided to travel as light as possible, so took only a drink with us. Although this is a regular walk I have yet to do a trip report for it – as today I was without my camera, it will have to wait a little longer.

The beauty of a regular circuit is you can walk it throughout the year and really get a feel for the changing seasons. Today the weather was indicating high summer, but closer inspection revealed touches of late spring still in evidence. Crops, although ripening, were still green, and here and there flocks of young birds flitted about the hedgerows. A couple of Buzzards drifted lazily overhead, riding the thermals driven by the rising temperatures of still-early morning.

Further on we crossed fields of wheat and barley and tangled oilseed rape. A hare, startled by our arrival, bolted along the field edge and we watched in silence as it sped over the rise ahead of us and out of sight. It is always exhilarating to see these wonderful creatures and we are lucky that they seem to be thriving in our local area.

The final section of the walk took us over further fields and along the road back home. By now it was over 30 degrees in the sun, so we had a wash and brush up and a bite of lunch before popping to the pub to watch England’s dismal World Cup exit to Germany. At least the beer was good! By the time the debacle was over the temperature was a little more bearable again, so to cheer ourselves up we opted for another walk – this time a short circuit to the next village and back – before eating.

So, beautiful weather, a couple of nice walks, wildlife sightings, a bit of football, a pint or two and some lovely food – not a bad way to do a weekend in one day, even if I do say so myself!

Looking Forward

I must confess to a certain amount of recent frustration. In the last couple of weeks since I completed a super 3-day jaunt in the Peak District we have been blessed with the most glorious weather, but to date I have been unable to take any real advantage of it. Except for a couple of very short trundles around my local area, I have either been at work, stuck inside, or fulfilling other commitments.

What is adding to the frustration is that I usually take a week’s walking holiday in late spring to try to relax, clear my head and clock up a few miles. Last year, I did the southern half of the Offa’s Dyke Path: this year I have not had the chance to take a break, so, periodically, I find myself staring outside with a far-away look on my face, daydreaming about having a wonderful time on some LDP somewhere.

Disappointing as it is to realise that I am not, in fact, on my travels, but sitting at my desk contemplating a pile of work full of imminent deadlines, there is an upside to all this because these imaginings are the beginnings of future adventures. The seeds of dozens of ideas will be sown; some will fall on fallow ground, but some will germinate into possibilities and, given time and a little nurturing, one or two might even become fully-grown plans.

And good thing about that is that when it’s cold and raining outside, when it’s dark when you go to work and dark when you come home again, and when you are missing your walking and the feeling of the sun on your face, there is something to look forward to that you know you’re going to enjoy, borne out of that frustration. A negative becomes a positive; a modest dream becomes a reality. And that’s a good thing.

Derby To Leek 12th to 14 June 2010

This 3 day walk was designed to link the outskirts of Derby with the outskirts of Leek, making use of the transport options offered by the two and passing through a mix of rural south Derbyshire countryside, classic limestone dale scenery and lonely, dark Staffordshire moorland.

As well as a self-contained walk, I intended it as research into a possible longer route circumnavigating the Peak District, taking in a variety of destinations important to me personally and highlighting the blend of natural beauty, wildlife, history and industrial heritage that makes this National Park unique.

Saturday 12th June 2010

Day 1: Mickleover to Ashbourne – approx 14.75 miles

Map:

OS Explorer 259 Derby

Route:

Mickleover – Black Wood – Radbourne – Bonnie Prince Charlie Walk – Dalbury Lees – Long Lane – Over Burrows – Brailsford – Centenery Way – Ednaston – Shirley – BPCW – Osmaston – Ashbourne

Services:

Pubs: Lees, Brailsford, Shirley, Osmaston and Ashbourne
Cafés & Kiosks: Ashbourne
Shops: Brailsford, Ashbourne
Transport: Derby, Brailsford, Ashbourne
Accommodation: Derby, Brailsford, Ashbourne

Weather:

A bright, sunny morning, slightly cool early on, with patchy cloud becoming warm in the afternoon.

I set off from my overnight stop on the western fringes of Derby at just after 9.00am, looking forward to the prospect of three very different day’s walking to come. Although still cool for the time of year, there was plenty of blue sky showing between bright white clouds and it felt good to have the sun on my face again after a week hidden away in the office. I felt slightly self-conscious plodding through the leafy suburbs sporting hiking boots and a sizeable rucksack, but I soon forgot about that as the streets brought back happy memories of friends and events from thirty or so years previously when I was growing up in the area.

Soon, I crossed the disused Derby to Burton railway line and, reaching the fields proper, left suburbia behind. Already wildlife was abundant and birdsong filled the air. As I passed into the parkland surrounding Radbourne Hall a fat Grey Squirrel shinned up a fence post and disappeared noisily into the trees, and butterflies flitted past at regular intervals. The 18th Century hall is renowned as the home of the Chandos-Pole family and, briefly, of Erasmus Darwin (Charles Darwin’s grandfather) - physician, philosopher, naturalist, poet, inventor and member of the Lunar Society - who married into the family in 1781. Approaching the village I spotted a Jay and watched Swifts swooping after insects overhead.

From the village I picked up the well-established Bonnie Prince Charlie Walk (BPCW) formed to commemorate the route Charles Edward Stuart marched between Ashbourne and Derby in 1745. This leads easily across the fields to the attractive village of Lees where, from the green outside the Black Cow pub, I followed the road north to meet Long Lane (a Roman road that linked Derby with Rocester in Staffordshire and beyond) at the brow of the hill. Crossing this ancient thoroughfare I threaded a line northwards towards Brailsford. A couple of Buzzards circled up on the thermals. Meeting the lane near the unlovely agri-business farm of Over Burrows, I turned left and dropped down into Brailsford, taking the path over the golf course to reach the village centre.

For the next stage I picked up the Centenary Way (CW) westwards. Having forced my way through fields of Oilseed Rape - almost 6ft high in places - on the way to Brailsford Church (located some half a mile outside the village) I skirted Ednaston and took my lunch, undisturbed, sitting in a field just beyond. It was by now a very pleasant afternoon, so I pushed on to Shirley and had a drink at the Saracens Head: a little food-y but nicely situated with tables out front in the sunshine.

I continued on my way again, once more following the BPCW. Along Park Lane, I passed the cricket field and paused to watch a couple of overs. Soon, the lane gave way to a shaded track running through Osmaston Park, dropping down to pass Shirley Mill and the lakes before rising again to Osmaston village. The usually quiet village was very busy; not only was the local school’s summer fair in full swing, but there was also a country show underway as well. A row of parked cars some third-of-a-mile long hugged the south side of the road forcing me to walk down the middle of the lane and battle with the oncoming traffic for right of way.

So I pressed on, taking the BPCW out of the village and back into the fields. I was by now nearing Ashbourne and the path began showing the signs, passing through a large caravan site and crossing the by-pass before winding through a quiet housing estate. The drudgery of this last mile was relieved slightly when the route cut across a last field and dropped down steps behind the houses, affording some pleasant views over the town to the hills beyond and hinting at what was to come tomorrow.

In the end, I felt that the majority of this walk was really good although the beginning and end were necessarily through housing estates and the section between Long Lane and Over Burrows was slightly scruffy in places. However, any such route (across farmland and well outside the National Park) is likely to encounter one or two places where the quality of the scenery drops a notch or two and, as an experiment, it seemed to work out well enough. Although I might consider other options in future such as a line further north through Kedleston and Hulland, I ended the day supping my cup of tea with a contented smile on my face, so mission accomplished.

Sunday 13th June 2010

Day 2: Ashbourne to Hartington – approx 13.25 miles

Map:

OS Explorer 259 Derby
OS Explorer OL24 Peak District (White Peak Area)

Route:

Ashbourne – Tissington Trail – Thorpe – Thorpe Cloud – Stepping Stones – Dovedale – Milldale – Alstonefield – Gipsy Bank – Coldeaton Bridge – Wolfscote Dale – Biggin Dale – Dale End – Highfield Lane – Hartington

Services:

Pubs: Ashbourne, Thorpe, Alstonefield and Hartington
Cafés & Kiosks: Ashbourne, Tissington, Milldale, Alstonefield and Hartington
Shops: Ashbourne and Hartington
Transport: Ashbourne, Thorpe, Alstonefield and Hartington
Accommodation: Ashbourne, Thorpe, Alstonefield and Hartington

Weather:

A bright, sunny morning, slightly cool early on, with patchy cloud becoming showery in the afternoon. Heavy rain in late afternoon and evening.

It was a little later than the previous morning that I set off from Ashbourne for day two of this walk. Once again, the weather was fine early on, but once again, showers were forecast, and it was already clouding over: today they would be making an appearance.

I wandered up through the market place and turned left keeping on the road towards Mapleton to reach the start of the Tissington Trail on the north west edge of town. The Tissington Trail, formed from the former the Ashbourne to Buxton railway line, is a 13 mile cycle and walking path running between Ashbourne and Parsley Hay. Most summer weekends, cyclists dominate and walking can be tricky, but early in the day it provides a quick route into the dales.

Near Thorpe, I left the Trail behind and cut across fields to the road where, directly opposite, a narrow lane led into the village. A few squally raindrops blew by - a foretaste of things to come. I rested for a few minutes on a handy bench and, as I did so, visitors began to pour in. I was heading for one of the busiest parts of the Peak District on a Summer Sunday, so I knew peace and quiet would be at a premium. As they were busy adjusting laces and walking poles, I hurried away ahead of them.

My next objective was the distinctive mini-mountain of Thorpe Cloud, a steep-sided but modest peak situated at the gateway to Dovedale that I had not climbed it since I was a teenager. But today it seemed like a good idea so I clambered up it and found myself there surprisingly alone. Despite clocking in at less than 300m, the views from its rocky summit are excellent and give a wonderful “birds-eye” view of the gorge that is Dovedale.

After a few moments in quiet contemplation of the scene spread out below me, I left my airy perch and took the obvious path northwards down to the stepping stones where I joined the main path through Dovedale. Needless to say, it was very busy. I stopped for a few moments at Lover’s Leap waiting for a break in the procession before carrying on. There was plenty of wildlife to be seen, and evidence that although it is technically Summer, nature considers it to be late Spring. Both Mallard and Moorhen were to be seen with chicks in tow, and, in the slower-moving, deeper stretches, Trout broke the surface searching for insects.

Despite the huge numbers of people flocking through, Dovedale is a beautiful - even spectacular - steep-sided gorge, justifiably feted both now and in history. A series of pictures showing artistic scenes of the dale accompanied by literary excerpts had been fixed to trees at regular intervals, highlighting the draw this place has had on visitors over the years. I approve of illustrating the art and literature inspired by the dale, but I’m not sure I found the method to my taste. Soon afterwards, I passed the caves at Dove Holes from where it was a short walk to Viators Bridge, the old packhorse bridge made famous by Izaak Walton in his book “The Compleat Angler”, and into Milldale in time for lunch.

After lunch, I took a detour from the dale and climbed the hill to Alstonefield. Taking the bridle path northeast past the Youth Hostel. As I wandered through the fields I heard a Skylark and a Curlew and moments later saw both.

I dropped down into Wolfscote Dale at Coldeaton Bridge via Gipsy Bank. It began to rain, but the trees afforded some shelter and the gentle patter of raindrops on the water brought an odd calm. During this quiet I spotted a Grey Heron, a Grey Wagtail and a Dipper.

I ambled northwards, turning right into Biggin Dale, another fine example of the Limestone dales of this area. The rain continued to fall steadily as I worked my way towards Dale End and picked up Highfield Lane, one of a network of farm tracks that criss-cross the high ground hereabouts, providing far-reaching views for the final mile before bringing me into Hartington by the Youth Hostel, my lodgings for the evening.

Today’s walk was very enjoyable. Despite being busy, the wonderful variety and beauty of the scenery makes it worthwhile even so. There are very many options on this route, all of which would be equally enjoyable, but I am happy with the route I took and would recommend it thoroughly. Hartington is a good place for an overnight stop with pubs, shops, B&Bs and the Youth Hostel all to be found, and walkers are well catered fro, especially those looking for a couple of pints of real ale and a hearty meal – a fine end to a fine day.


Monday 14th June 2010

Day 3: Hartington to Upper Hulme – approx 12.75 miles

Map:

OS Explorer OL24 Peak District (White Peak Area)

Route:

Hartington – Beresford Dale – Narrowdale – Gateham Grange – Back of Ecton – Sugarloaf – Wetton Mill – Hoo Brook – Butterton – Hayes Farm – Lane – Mermaid Inn - Hurdlow – Upper Hulme

Services:

Pubs: Hartington, Butterton, Mermaid Inn and Upper Hulme
Cafés & Kiosks: Hartington and Wetton Mill
Shops: Hartington
Transport: Hartington, Butterton and Upper Hulme

Weather:

A beautiful, bright morning, with blue sky and fluffy white cloud, cooling and clouding over in the afternoon with rain in the air.

Today, I awoke to a beautiful morning. More Spring-like than Summery, fluffy white clouds drifted across a bright blue sky. I wanted to make good use of the good weather, so I slipped out of the Hostel at just after 8.00am and picked up a few supplies on my way through the village.

I headed south into Beresford Dale across meadows sprinkled with wild flowers. Recent refurbishment has upgraded this path from the muddy mess it used to be. Soon, I reached the woods and followed the riverside path as it wound through the grotto-like dale. The heavy rain of the previous night was still dripping through the trees and, brushing past the dense foliage, it was difficult not to get a soaking.

By a small wooden bridge over the river, the dale opens out to reveal water meadows covered in wild flowers. I remember these meadows well: I used to visit them as a kid and in winter, when the river overflowed, they would be frozen over in one vast sheet of ice.

From Beresford Lane, I followed a cycle track southwards through a scene of bucolic perfection as the dale dropped away to my left. Beyond a gate, as the cycle path forked left, I carried straight on reaching a farm at Narrowdale. I contoured around Narrowdale Hill on the metalled lane, went straight over at the crossroads and took a westward-bound path, rough with tussocky grass, from below Gateham Grange towards Back of Ecton. From here, I wound my way up on to the ridge before picking up the path that runs past Sugarloaf and drops down through a scruffy farm towards Wetton Mill.

I stopped for a rest and a cup of tea and something to eat. By now the sky had clouded over and the remainder of the day looked set to be grey. Break over, I chose the bridle path along side Hoo Brook and made for Butterton. The nature of the underlying Geology had changed: instead of limestone of earlier I was now heading towards the darker moorlands of Staffordshire. Underfoot, the paths were slick with dark mud and the ground more easily churned by cattle. At the footbridge, my route aimed for Butterton, taking a rising path through meadows to reach the village: a tumble of houses divided by the brook that spills onto the main street.

So far, today’s walk had been very different from yesterdays. Just as I knew that walking the popular areas on a nice Sunday was likely to be busy, I guessed that these less-favoured parts on a cloudy Monday would be much quieter, and so it proved. Truth be told, I was hoping for a bit of peace and quiet and, since leaving Hartington, I had seen less than a handful of people; most of those being at Wetton Mill. The next stage was likely to be quieter still for I planned a traverse of the rising moorland northwest of Butterton as far as the Mermaid Inn, using a mixture of field paths, tracks and lanes and skirting the villages of Lower Elkstone and Upper Elkstone along the way. On the high ground beyond Hayes Farm a brusque shower swept in giving me just enough warning to put on my waterproof jacket in time. This area somehow manages to exude a loneliness far greater that its actual remoteness would suggest.

I plodded on. Farming hereabouts must be a precarious existence and almost on the edge of what is practicable, but it never ceases to amaze me how untidy some of them can be. Rusting farm implements, broken down cars, plies of old tyres, rolls of wire fencing, plastic cans, buckets and sheeting; all must have had some value at one time but have been simply left to rot, and I can’t see the benefit of it.

So, to avoid these unlovely farmyards, I stuck to the lane, reaching the Mermaid Inn in the early afternoon. I tried the door, but it was shut. I wasn’t unduly concerned as I had expected it might be closed anyway – out of the way pubs sometimes are on weekday lunchtime. I sat on a bench outside just to rest for five minutes and get my breath back when the landlord stuck his head around the door. “We’re not open”, he grunted in an unfriendly manner. I stared at him for a moment, and phrased my reply to suggest he perhaps didn’t mind if I sat there for a couple of minutes. He looked decidedly less than chuffed but went back inside. I am always happy to try to support rural businesses and would have bought a drink if they were open. But, from his attitude, I assume he, like the farmers hereabouts, can afford to let money go to waste since I will be telling all who will listen to try other hostelries.

I shouldered my pack and set off for the last leg of my walk. One of the upsides of this route is the great view of The Roaches, Hen Cloud and Ramshaw Rocks. These were spread out in front of me as I began my descent to Upper Hulme. A well-marked path makes an almost direct line for the village; first over tussocky fell, then by farm track and field path.

Although only mid-afternoon, and with The Roaches beckoning, I had to end my trip here as I had to connect with transport and make my way home. It had been a very enjoyable and varied three days incorporating a huge diversity of terrain, changeable weather, seething honey-pots and lonely moors, but I am pretty content with the route I chose and am looking forward to continuing on later in the year when I will get that Roaches traverse done. And with that to start the next leg, who could resist?