The Le Puy Route - Part 2

Across the Aubrac - Les Faux to Saint-Chely-d’Aubrac

Day 4 – Les Faux to Aumont Aubrac

23.65km / Ascent = 619m / Descent = 680m

We had a slightly shorter day in prospect today after yesterday’s lengthy stint, and we woke to find the weather looking promising for the day ahead. With only around 23k to walk we could afford to take our breakfast at a leisurely pace, and so it was around 8.45am by the time we eventually set off.

Looking out across Le Rouget

It was bright but still cool as we made our way back to the main GR65 and dropped down through the hamlet of Le Rouget. On the way, we chatted briefly to a Canadian father/son pairing who were through-hiking from Le Puy to Santiago over a two-month stretch. Almost 9 continuous weeks of walking, discovery and enjoying the Camino experience – now that's what I call a trip!

Go West! Pelerins en route

The route into Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole was slightly circuitous. From reaching the edge of the town, we were taken right round the top side on a ridge with good views, then directed into the centre past the hospital complex (in this instance a real, modern hospital, not the old use of the word as a hostel, with each ward named after a famous artist).

Hospital with wards named after artists

It's a nice little town when you get there – a mix of new and old architecture that actually works quite well together. We bought savoury tarts for lunch, and stopped at a small bar for coffee and to read the papers – France beating Ireland to make the next round of Euro 2016 had temporarily replaced Brexit as front page news. Mind you, that was only in the sports section.

Looking back to Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole

We left Saint Alban along the side of a busy road, then cut to our right along a track that climbed to a low ridge with views back to the town. From then on, we experienced some of the best walking of the trip so far – the climb up to Chabannes (where we took our first lunch) along a sun-dappled, rocky path through woods reminiscent of those in Corsica being perhaps the highlight.

A metier a ferre les boeufs - a stall for containing
oxen while they are being shod

Les boeufs

The great scenery continued all the way to Les Estrets, a pretty, quiet little village at the foot of a steep descent where we took a break at the gite for drinks.

Sleepy Les Estrets

River Truyere

Moving on, we crossed the River Truyere – a slow, lazy river, rather like the Lathkill – and climbed out of the valley. Following another delightful track as we rose to the head of a shallow side valley, we walked in sight of other pilgrims for the first time since Saint-Alban.

Heading towards the D7 road

After a short break, we eventually reached the D7 road, crossed it, and followed a cinder track to meet the road again a while later before the final descent downhill into Aumont Aubrac, a small town most notable for its association with the “Beast of Gevaudan”.

The Beast of Gevaudan

Legend has it that in the latter half of the C18th, a fearsome man-eating wolf-like creature with “formidable teeth and an immense tail” terrorised the local population, reputedly resulting in the death of over 100 people. There are various theories as to what the Beast actually was – hyena, lynx or pack of wolves seeming the most likely.

But whatever the actuality, the C21st pilgrim has little to fear in Aumont Aubrac – at least from legendary Beasts.

Narrow building, Aumont Aubrac - its not often you can
see the front and back of a building at the same time

We are staying in a gite tonight, quite a simple room but with a TV so we can watch the England v Iceland game! We dined at the hotel, getting in early while the locals cheered on Italy's 2-0 win over Spain.

We had steak with aligot, a highly elastic sort of cheesy, garlicky mashed potato very specific to this area and traditionally served to pilgrims on their way to Santiago. Aligot is taken very seriously in these parts – there are aligot festivals, with prizes for the best examples – think of the passions stirred by the correct recipe for Cornish Pasty (no carrots involved) and you’ll get the basic idea!  

Aligot, served here with Toulouse sausage

It had been a lovely day – great scenery, charming villages, interesting towns and quiet countryside, with only occasional other walkers met on the trail and decent weather too. It feels like we have seen a glimpse of local life as well today, not just the tourist side of a major walking route, and we seem to have relaxed nicely into our trail routine.

Tomorrow looks set to be a longer day, and the forecast suggests temperatures into the 30s in the afternoon, so we will need to be prepared for that.

Day 5 – Aumont Aubrac to Montgros

24.62km / Ascent = 625m / Descent = 441m

We awoke this morning to the depressing news that for the second time in five days we have exited Europe – this time a dismal 2-1 defeat at the hands of Iceland in Euro 2016.

Nonetheless, we got cracking and were breakfasted and on the trail by 8.15am, taking advantage of the early cool.

Leaving town, there were a few early walkers setting off – as many as we had seen altogether at one time anywhere on the trail – but as we passed first under the railway line, then the motorway, the cluster thinned as everyone hit their own pace.

Regardless of numbers, it was a nice bright morning, and we were walking mostly on dirt tracks through woods before joining the road into the village of La Chaze-du-Payre – the sort of place where even in the relative cool of the morning, nothing much was happening and what was happening was happening slowly.

Chapelle de Bastide, Lasbros

We left the village on a narrow lane signed for Lasbros, gently rising until we met the D987 (the Voie d’Agrippa, the former Roman road from Lyon to Toulouse) where the small Chapelle de Bastide stood by itself at the junction of several roads. We popped inside for a quick look.

Carrying on through Lasbros, we left the main road and headed off on a track through woods towards the next objective – a junction of roads and paths known locally as Les Quatre Chemins sitting at over 1150m in altitude.

It had been the kind of slow, lazy morning where our main companions en route had been skylarks over the meadows and cuckoos in the woods. But nearing Les Quatre Chemins, we did see a Stoat on the trail to add to other recent wildlife sightings – Red Squirel, Jay, Song Thrush, rabbits, a hare, more Red Kites and a number of other large, unidentified raptors.

Notice, Chez Regine, Les Quatre Chemins
"WC: crosswords and suodku prohibited during peak hours"

At Les Quatre Chemins, we had a break for coffee at Chez Regine. Regine, if it was indeed her who served us, was a hunched-over, stick-thin woman about 5-foot-tall, probably in her 70s and looking like she weighed about 5 stone wringing wet. It was like being served by an anorexic Mrs Overall, and the faded, out-of-date décor did nothing to abuse us of the notion we had somehow walked back to the 1950s. 

Oh, and a sign informed us we were not allowed to do crosswords or sudoku when using the toilet at busy times - whenever they might be.

Gateway with cledo - a flexible gate of wire and palings

Moving on, we headed out on to the Aubrac plateau proper, an undulating upland of meadow pasture and rock-strewn hillsides at around 1200m. Criss-crossed with walled tracks and trails, punctuated at intervals by cledos (wire and paling “gates” across the track) and with little shade, you are very much open to the elements (in today's case, hot sun).

Typical path on the Aubrac plateau

By the time we had reached Ferme des Gentianes, we were ready for lunch and a longer break, so we indulged ourselves with salad, sandwiches and beers in the shade of the gite awning. Like most things hereabouts, it was not a hasty experience. But we had plenty of time to while away, and a leisurely French lunch was as good a way as any to do so.

The 10 Commandments of the path, Fineyrols

After a brief climb through the hamlet of Fineyrols, where we were informed about the 10 Commandments of the path, we headed out once more on to the Aubrac plateau to face the heat. Our guidebook describes this area as “deserted” which I suppose it is to an extent, but all round are signs of agriculture and work is evident, so someone must be farming it. “Who milks all the cows?” as Missy G put it.

Beyond Fineyrols, with the path ahead

We topped up with water from the fountain in Rieutort d’Aubrac, then followed the road in increasing heat for a couple of kilometres (saw a weasel) before reaching the bridge over the River Bes. 

Approaching Montgros

Cutting over a low hillside, we climbed gently to reach the village of Montgros and our digs for the night, the lovely Maison de Rosalie.

La Maison de Rosalie, Montgros

We had a bit of a relax, then went down for an aperitif before dinner – with WiFi available, a chance to contact family and friends and check work was behaving while I was away.

Dinner at La Maison de Rosalie

Dinner was really nice: a set menu of peasant ham, melon and coleslaw to start with, pork chop and aligot (the elastic potato and cheese mash that is a speciality of this very small region) for main, cheese and a fruit salad for afters. Really lovely, simple food, and just the job after a full day walking.

Day 6 – Montgros to Saint-Chely-d’Aubrac

20.00km / Ascent = 485m / Descent = 888m

After a breakfast involving homemade bread and jam, croissants and coffee, we were out on the trail at a leisurely 8.45am – allowable given we only had about 20km to cover today.

Looking down to Nasbinals

The first section took us through farmland, and from the ridge overlooking the descent into Nasbinals you could easily be forgiven for thinking you were arriving into Hartington or Kettlewell, such was the similarity to those places. In fact, the track we were walking was so similar to the walled lanes between Hartington and Biggin as to be uncanny, and we might just as likely have been greeted by a cheery “Ey up, mi duck!” as a respectful “bonjour madame, monsieur!”.

Church, Nasbinal

But once in the village the differences were apparent, the buildings being more typical of the local stone and vernacular architecture. We popped into the Romanesque church and enjoyed a brief reunion with three of the people we ate dinner with at Mme Martins in Saugues.

Statue of St Jacques (St James)

Plaque outside Nasbinals church

Moving on, we climbed back on to the plateau. As a reminder of just how high we were, we passed a sign for a ski station – evidence that in the winter months these slopes are properly snow-covered.

Back on the plateau

Our path continued to climb gently and gradually rose, bringing us out onto high pasture. 

Near the high-point of the walk at 1300m

The stretch between Nasbinals and Aubrac offers almost 10km of walking without hamlet or farm, topping out at over 1300m altitude (not far off the height of Ben Nevis) but basically traverses farm pasture where small groups of cattle reside – pods of 30 or 40 beasts, mainly cows and calves, but with each herd presided over by a patriarchal bull looking out for his harem.

Modern sculpture on the way into Aubrac village

Approaching the village

Cow sculpture, Aubrac

Aubrac village was undergoing renovations on a large scale. To be honest, it was rather needed as it was looking a bit sorry for itself. We stopped for a drink, but soon carried on, and we ate our lunch a little later by the side of the trail.

On the descent from Aubrac

If the morning was characterised by the high, open plateau of the Aubrac, the afternoon was all about the descent off the plateau towards the Lot valley. We descended around 500m over the course of two hours walking – mainly through woodlands on rocky sunken paths and tracks – first to the hamlet of Belvezet, then on to Saint-Chely.

Saint-Chely is a nice, quiet village, but geared up for pelerins of the GR65. Our hotel is lovely, too – small and quite chic. We checked in, had a wash and brush up, did a bit of shopping then relaxed with a local Aubrac beer, watching the world go by.

Our hotel, Saint-Chely-d'Aubrac

Dinner was another nice set menu. We had beef terrine and salad for starter, a super beef dish called paleron (chuck steak cooked with onion, wine, herbs and carrots, rather like boeuf bourguignon) cheese, and a caramelised apple tart. Lovely!

To settle the meal, we had a stroll to the end of the village and back before turning in.

A right pair of pilgrims

We had really enjoyed the last 3 days crossing the Aubrac plateau. The weather had been good, and so had the views, and we were constantly presented with glorious scenery that wouldn’t have been out of place in the White Peak or Yorkshire Dales. It was almost as if a second Norman Conquest had established French as the native tongue of the North of England limestone country.

If the scenery had a familiarity about it, we had really enjoyed the feeling of being in authentic rural France – a tranquil, sedate countryside of food-loving locals, traditional recipes, strong on local ingredients and the quality of their provenance. Like the aliogt, time was elastic and stretched to suit: nothing was hurried, and there was a lazily relaxed attitude to life that matched beautifully to the pace of a walking trip.

Tomorrow, we would be leaving these high pastures and descending into the Lot valley. The Aubrac had treated us well, but we were now heading for a different flavoured corner of this part of France.

The Le Puy Route - Part 1

Marcheurs in the Margeride - Le Puy to Les Faux

Day 1: Arrival – Le Puy-en-Velay

3.00km

So, on the very day the UK goes to the polls to decide its ongoing relationship with the European Union (with hindsight, there may be an irony in there somewhere) here we are making our way to Le Puy-en-Velay in the Auvergne region of France to begin the next stage of our Camino trekking – 9 days south westerly towards Conques.

View over Le Puy from the statue of Notre-Dame de france

This route goes by a number of different names – the Via Podiensis, the GR65 or the Route St Jacques being the most well-known – and runs for approximately 730km from Le Puy in south-central France to the Spanish border at St Jean Pied de Port in the Pyrenees, where it links with the Camino de Santiago and forms a continuous pilgrim route of some 1500km between Le Puy and Santiago de Compostela.

Our plan was again to walk this route in sections, probably 3 in all, and link up with the Camino in a couple of years’ time.

Back to the present, and our plane was running about two hours late due to that stalwart of travel delays - French Air Traffic Control strikes – nothing to do with the EU, actually it’s a dispute between the French Government and the ATC.

Cathedral

Not to worry, we eventually arrived at Lyon and transferred to Le Puy without further ado. And one thing we noticed straight away: it’s hot! The forecast in the lead up to departure had been varied, with stormy weather predicted, much like we'd been having at home. But the reality is much better, and if it stays like this our water-related issues will be about sufficient to drink, not battening down the hatches against torrential rain.

We reached our hotel mid-afternoon, checked in, then went for a look round. Le Puy is an old town with some dramatic scenery, especially the church and statue perched on top of pointed hill tops.

Church of Saint Michel d'Aiguilhe

We set off first round the eastern edge of the old town, and gradually worked our way past shops and cafés and houses to the Cathedral. Here, we found the Pilgrim’s Office and had our pilgrim passports stamped – the first of many, we hope, chronicling this phase of our journey.

Next, we walked up to the statue of Notre-Dame de France, perched high on top of the hill, for great views over the town – a mix of steep paths and steps took us to the summit, followed by an eight-turn spiral staircase inside the statue to reach the top.

Statue of Notre-Dame de Paris

At just after 5pm, we were back at the Cathedral, listening to the afternoon mass – a blessing before our departure – before retiring to the Pilgrim’s Café for beers and a bite to eat, a cool, calm haven on a hot afternoon.

In the Pilgrim Cafe gardens

Strolling through the streets back to the hotel, we rehearsed our route for the morning and checked out opportunities to stock up on bread and fruit. Then it was back for some much-needed sleep, for tomorrow is set to be an exciting day.

Day 1: Le Puy en Velay to Le Chier

23.25km / Ascent = 888m / Descent = 399m

We both slept fitfully, but by 8.00am we had packed, breakfasted and set off on what promised to be a glorious day. Skies were already blue and cloudless, and even this early, beneath the cool of morning, there were hints of the heat to come.

Looking out from the Cathedral at the
official start of the route

Our first move was to hit the trail – but the wrong way, back through town to pick up some lunch and make our way to the official start at the Cathedral. After a quick selfie, we were properly on our way. We passed a group of workmen, one with a large pair of bolt-cutters – perhaps symbolic and/or ironic on the morning the UK had elected to leave the EU – were we being cut adrift?

We decided that if we weren't allowed back into the UK, there were worse places to be stranded.

Anyway, 30 minutes after setting off, we were passing our hotel again, this time heading up hill and out of town. In fact, uphill was to be a feature of the day's walk, as over the course of 11 miles or so we were to climb from 625m to just over 1200m.

Wooden statue of St James on the way out of Le Puy 

It wasn't long before we reached open countryside and relatively level walking on the way to our first village of the day, La Roche. We passed a communal bread oven, and as if reminded of just how a light breakfast we had inside us, we stopped for a pain au raisin and a drink overlooking the deep, steep-sided valley where somewhere below, hidden in the trees, the River Gazelle tumbled past.

View from our first lunch stop at La Roche, with stepped
basalt layers and flat plateau evident

This is a volcanic area, and from here it was easy to see the layers of basalt that had built up one on top of the other after each eruption to form the level plateau over which we now walked. A ravine-side path led us into trees along a shady walled lane and just before the village of Saint-Christophe-sur-Dolaison we pulled into a wayside bar for a cool drink as the day was already warm.

Wayside shrine

The next stretch took us through the hamlets of Tallode, Liac and Lic, through countryside not unlike the upland areas of the White Peak in Derbyshire – pasture separated by walled paths and tracks. It felt good to be out on the trail, and although our bodies were still a bit unused to the heat and the effort, we were really enjoying it.

Colourful hedgerow

We had lunch sitting on a shaded wall just outside Ramourouscle, and stopped for a look inside the Chapelle Saint-Roch near Montbonnet. Then there was more climbing to be done, towards the wooded ridge on the skyline near Lac d’Oeuf.

Montbonnet

Chapelle Saint-Roche

Woodland track near Lac D'Oeuf 

After a steady decent to Le Chier, it was time to call it a day, so we arranged to meet our hotelier (our accommodation being off-route) who came to pick us up (we will pick up from the same spot tomorrow).

La Grangette was located in a beautiful spot at 800m, high above the valley. Our hosts, Jacqueline and Philippe, welcomed us in, showed us to a lovely room, simply furnished and with a view over the valley.

Dinner was a communal affair with us, a French couple from Normandy, a young Belgian couple and a single Frenchwoman sharing a delicious meal of fish in tomato sauce, pork with mushroom sauce, Strawberries and cream, a choux bun, coffee and the biggest cheeseboard you have ever seen!

All the talk was of Brexit, and there was much bemusement from our hosts and fellow diners as to how it could have happened, and why? We were at a loss to explain it, too ……   

Day 2 – Le Chier to Saugues

23.61km / Ascent = 1032m / Descent = 1056m

Heavy rain had been forecast for today, but we awoke to find it had already fallen. There was plenty of mist hanging in the air, in the way that it can do in mountain areas, but the skies were clearing, with blue patches peeking between the dark clouds.

Le Chier, early morning

After a lovely communal breakfast, we said farewell to our companions and got a lift back to Le Chier – ready and walking by 8.30am.

Early mist clearing

Woodland path on the way to Saint-Privat d'Allier

The path to Saint-Privat d’Allier was downhill all the way – quiet, through shoulder high vegetation still soaked from last night’s rain, the verges teeming with rabbits and air full of the chatter of birdsong.

Arrival into Saint-Privat d'Allier

Saint-Privat d’Allier is an attractive village and a local walking centre, with many routes seeming to converge here in the upper Allier gorge.

Church and Chateau, Saint-Privt d'Allier

Heading out of the village, we took a contour path through woodland with a distinct alpine feel on an undulating route that brought us out by the tower at Rochegude, where there were great views into the valley.

Tower at Rochegude, remains of a C13th castle complex

A long descent followed, at first through woods, then across fields, towards Monistrol-d’Allier, a modest town with a few basic shops and a café where we bought goats’ cheese sandwiches and cokes for lunch.

Bridge at Monistrol d'Allier, built by Gustave Eiffel

It was good to have a rest before the steep-ish climb out of the valley – 450m back up on to the plateau. We took our time as there was no rush, eventually reaching the village of Montaure at about 1.30pm.

Looking back to Monistrol d'Allier from the
steep climb up to Montaure

Looking back into the valley, we could see heavy rain not far away. We missed the worst of it, but pretty soon we were donning waterproofs to fend off a steady drizzle. It soon brightened up though, and by the time we reached Le Vernet the sun was out again, temperatures warm, and the bar with cool beers welcome. Here, a rarity occurred: we were served by a man who spoke less English than I did French!

Pilgrim statue at the bar in Le Vernets

Beyond Le Vernet, we walked level paths for half an hour before beginning the descent to Saugues and catching another brief shower just forceful enough to warrant putting jackets on again. In the fields all around farmers were busy gathering hay, obviously hoping to finish before the grass was spoiled.

A brief shower on the way to Saugues

Wayside artwork on the descent to Saugues

The last few hundred metres were a bit steep, but then we were there – briefly bumping into our single lady chum from last night on the way. We decided to tour the village: I had inadvertently left our adaptor plug at the first hotel, thus rendering all our electrical devices almost useless.

If by the odd chance there was a shop selling a replacement, we didn't want to find it later closed! By some minor miracle, there was an electrical shop: and yes, they had just what we were looking for! Sometimes, you just get lucky!

Afterwards, we found our digs and were greeted by a friendly woman who immediately offered us a cold drink. We settled in, got ready for dinner, then nipped out for a better look round town. As well as finding a second electrical retailer (like with buses, you wait and wait and then two come along at once) we popped into the main church where the relics of St Benilde are held, a local man whose remains were kept in a small casket on display in the church.

Church in Saugues with relic of Saint Benilde

Inside the church

Back at the house, dinner was ready. Earlier our hostess was slightly confused in that she was expecting three of us, not two. No problem, by the time we all sat down to dinner there was her, her husband and a dozen more more of us, so a right house full.

And we had a lovely meal - vegetable soup and pasta, salad, beef with carrots, potatoes and we think turnips, great cheese and custard to finish, all washed down with wine and water. Much of the veg and salad was home-grown.

It was another fantastic, convivial, communal meal, with our hostess holding court over her charges – telling jokes, explaining where the food came from – a memorable night where we appreciated the food, chatted (again, mostly about Brexit) and enjoyed the company and brief friendship of a small band of travellers who, for one moment in time, shared a dinner table.

Day 3 – Saugues to Les Faux

30.12km

Breakfast was another experience. As well as coffee, homemade yoghurt and milk from their own cows, there was also bread and homemade preserves – a wide choice, according to our hostess: “Six different sorts of jam” she said, “all of them containing Rhubarb!”

She also explained how the milk from their cows went into the high-quality “Mont Lait” milk brand of the Massif Central mountain highlands. It was a great start to the day, and we ate well before saying our farewells to our hostess and fellow Caminoers – we would be going a little further than them today.

Looking back to Saugues, overcast skies

The skies were overcast as we headed out of the village, and bundles of dark cloud were massing close by. But then, in a matter of moments, they had dispersed, and blue skies dotted with fluffy white cloud ensued as temperatures rose.

We began the 7.5km stretch to Le Clauze on quiet lanes before picking up sandy tracks through quiet woodland filled with birdsong. A few other walkers were out, but by and large we were on our own until we passed the single Frenchwoman (SFW) we had dined with on the first night and shared a brief hello.

Le Clauze

Signposts typical of this area

Approaching Le Falzet

More quiet lanes followed. In Le Falzet, we stopped at a lovely farm for drinks – large cups of café latte – and briefly chatted to a Swiss gent who had, in stages, walked from Geneva. SFW also turned up, and we had a relaxing half-hour stop.

Moving on, we passed through a couple more pretty villages. A sign informed us our intended lunch stop was closed today (we think for hay making) so we made a brief side trip to Chanaleilles for beer and sandwiches at the local bar – it was nice to see a local bar in a working village, not just a touristy one on the route.

Hedgerow near Contaldes

Carrying on, we began the climb towards Domaine du Sauvage. If the morning had been characterised by pretty villages and agricultural pastures, the afternoon was mostly spent walking through sun-dappled woods and summery glades, with just the quiet and a soundtrack of birdsong to accompany us.

Woodland track on the way to Le Sauvage

The Domaine du Sauvage is a former hospital run by the Templars, dating from the C13th. The name itself suggests it's out in the wild – it is – but it's an austere building: it may well have offered shelter from the elements and safety from brigands in this “wild” countryside, but even on a sunny summer afternoon it looked a bit gloomy. Mind you, it is at 1292m!

Many of last nights’ companions were stopping here for the night, but we were going further. More woodland followed – we are steadily collecting a list of wildlife sightings, including some of the more colourful ones like Red Kite, Green Woodpecker, Black Redstart, Grey Wagtail and Goldfinch.

Fountain of St Roche

Soon we reached a road, and followed this past the fountain and chapel of St Roch. Then began the steady descent towards Le Rouget and our overnight stop at Les Faux – still at an altitude higher than pretty much anything in the UK outside Scotland. Although we were tiring a little it was beautiful in the late afternoon sunshine, and we eventually arrived in Les Faux about 5.40pm – time for a quick shower before dinner (mushroom omelette, salad, bread cheese and a chocolate fondant to finish).

Cattle meadows near Les Faux

WiFi for the first time in two days had allowed us to catch up on sports results and the political situation. This Brexit thing seems to be a right mess! I rang my Mum who reckons David Cameron has resigned and we barely have a functioning government or opposition …..

These first few days have seen us cross the Margeride from Le Puy to Saugues, get back into the “Camino” spirit, readjust to the slower pace of life, discover the enjoyment of communal dinners, discuss more on Brexit than we thought possible, and prepare ourselves for the days ahead. By tomorrow night we will be on the high level plateau of L’Aubrac.