Long Days, Short Days & Rainy Days - Cahors to Moissac
Day 7: Cahors to La Clos
de Gamel
30.00k (18.67 miles) /
No Ascent or Descent stats
We were up and
breakfasted quite early, first setting off back through town to pick up lunch
stuff for the next couple of days. Having run low on picnic food, we took the
opportunity to stock up.
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| Setting off |
Returning to the Louis
Philippe bridge, we made our way beside the loop of the river to the Pont
Valente, an elaborate fortified bridge that has carried pilgrims out of Cahors
for 700 years.
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| Pont Valente |
Since reaching Cahors,
there had been a noticeable change of atmosphere about the route, and one which
would remain with us for the next few days. Up until now, that feeling of being
“on Camino” wasn't necessarily always there, which may have been down to the
relative dearth of villages and towns through which the route has passed. The
GR65, whilst broadly following the pilgrimage route, was also designed to skirt
more civilisation than the more direct Spanish route.
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| Crossing the bridge out of town |
After crossing the
bridge (and passing the Three French Ladies – TFL) we hit the steep climb up to
the Croix de Magne on the ridge above town. The route then takes a lengthy
detour to pass under the busy N20 motorway, before following quiet lanes and paths
towards the hamlet of Les Mathiuex, where we stopped at the gite for cokes and
a rest. The TFL were there too.
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| View from the Croix de Magne |
We dropped down into
the valley, heard planes race by low in the sky and climbed towards
Labastide-Marnhac where we stopped for lunch at a handy picnic table. After the
rain of the past couple of days, it was nice to have good weather again.
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| Lunch stop, Labastide-Marnhac |
Exiting the village,
we again passed TFL and began a lengthy stretch of some 12k towards Lascabanes.
The walking here is through woods or open spaces and is much, I imagine, like
the South Downs. One section, we were brought to a stop as a cuckoo broke from
its normal two-note song to entertain with a rarely-heard three-note version.
Continuing with the
woods / heathland mix of countryside, we kept high on the ridge for a while
longer, before dropping into the valley towards Lascabanes.
On reaching the
village, we began to look for our accommodation, only to find it was actually
another 3.5k away. So, we trundled on, through more nice shady woods and along
a level tarmacked lane, until we reached the Chapelle St-Jean-le-Froid, where
we called in for some cool.
The last kilometre was
off route. This place had better be worth it, we thought.
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| La Clos de Gamel |
And it was. La Clos de
Gamel is another farmstead, with the out-buildings turned into guest rooms, two
swimming pools, and a great setting. We were made very welcome by Chantelle and
David, offered complimentary cold drinks and use of the pool (taken – it was
glorious on such a hot day) and allowed to settle at our own pace.
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| Our room |
We had a swim, rest,
and tidy up, then joined our hosts plus other guests, Patrice and Marie, and
neighbours Rene and Anita (originally from Holland) for a lovely meal with
wonderful relaxed company. We chatted in a mix of French and English, and all
got on so well. It was a fun evening, not least because Rene came in a restored
bright yellow Panhard car, which was a great talking point.
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| This 1952 Panhard has been lovingly restored |
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| Such a beautiful car |
It seemed a shame to
call it a night, but more walking beckons for us and the others tomorrow, so
with some reluctance we headed for bed.
Day 8: La Clos de
Gamel to Lauzerte
22.25k (13.80 miles) /
Ascent 520m / Descent 668m
After a lovely
breakfast outside, with coffee, juice, bread, jam, and yoghurt, it was time to
take our leave of La Clos de Gamel – a sad moment, as we had had such a lovely
time.
It was already sunny
and quite warm as we got underway, taking a slight detour back to the GR65. The
walking was superb, some of the best of the week, chalk uplands with views far
and wide.
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| On the way to Montcuq |
Our first objective
was Montcuq, a hilltop town some 8k away and apparently the half way point of
the Route St Jacques. From now on, we would be closer to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port
than Le Puy.
If you were thinking
of a small town in France, where folks come from round about to do not much in
a relaxed and unhurried manner, and where incomers would choose to sit in cafes
to acquaint themselves with the locals, this would be the place.
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| Village centre, Montcuq |
We had cold Cokes in a
market square café, bought a sandwich for lunch, and whiled away a delightful half
hour.
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| Path climbing out of Montcuq |
Moving on, we covered
about another 3.5k to the church at Rouillac, where we had a quick look inside,
taking refuge from the heat of the day before joining the TFL at the picnic
table for lunch.
The afternoon was
shaping up to be quite hot, and as we continued we were glad of occasional
shade to offset the heat, especially on a couple of the climbs. After the rise
up to Montlauzan, we opted to miss the village and rested instead in the shade
beneath a large tree.
Crossing the valley,
we entered the
département of Tarn et
Garonne for the 7k stretch to Lauzerte. After an initial climb, the walking was
level in the main, but the final descent into Lauzerte was very steep and slippery,
and would have been treacherous in wet conditions.
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| Topping up at the spring |
Arriving in Lauzerte,
we stopped for an ice cream, then followed a busy and dangerous main road for
half a mile to the hotel. And what a hotel. On the plus side, the host was nice
and there was a swimming pool which we took advantage of. On the other hand, it
was a bit run down and there were some odd characters hanging around. The meal
was basic but fine, but it was obvious that it was living on faded glory and the
whole place had seen better days.
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| Local football match |
We went to watch some
local football afterwards, and we were happy enough in the end – when you are
tired, you can cope with anything as long as you get food, water and a bed.
Day 9: Lauzerte to the
Auberge de L’Aube-Nouvelle
13.75k (8.50 miles) /
No ascent or descent stats
Thunder during the
night had given us a strong clue as to what to expect this morning – rain. Varying
from steady to quite heavy, we set off for the climb up to Lauzerte, had a
quick look round the little town, and bought cherries in the market.
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| Marketplace, Lauzerte |
Already a bit behind
the clock, we left the town and dropped into the valley. The way was pleasant
but unremarkable, and after a sweaty climb the far side the rain had abated and
we were able to shed hot waterproofs.
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| Colourful hedgerow |
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| Eglise St-Sernin-du-Bosc |
After a steep descent
on a stony track, we reached the restored Eglise St-Sernin-du-Bosc, and popped
in for a quick look round. Moving on, we followed a succession of muddy tracks,
quiet lanes and busier roads.
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| Crops in the fields |
We had descended into
another valley just beyond Mirabel when the darkening skies finally released
their contents. Only just in time, we donned waterproofs again. As the rain
became heavier, the going became more difficult as already wet ground became
awash with water.
As the intensity of
the rain reached a crescendo and water ran freely down the hillsides, the
tracks became increasingly muddy and slippery. I fell, and with one side
covered in mud we splodged along for a bit until we reached the Auberge de
L’Aube Nouvelle, which thankfully was open – but only just!
We were invited in and
brought hot coffee, dripping water and mud all over the tiled floor as the
deluge outside continued, thankful for their kind hospitality even though not
properly open.
Another pilgrim was
ensconced in the lobby, though he was stopping there for the night.
Weighing up our
options, we came to the unpalatable decision to end our walk there and then,
and pick up again from this point next time. It was a bit defeatist, but anything
other than walking the roads would have been impossible – or at least very
slippery and muddy.
It was a shame, but on
the plus side it did give us a bit more time to look round Moissac. We called a
cab and were whisked into town in minutes, while the rain fell.
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| Streets of Moissac |
Safely installed in
our hotel, we rested up and dried out for a bit. By late afternoon, the rain
had stopped, so we went for a look round Moissac and something to eat. As if to
endorse our earlier decision, the heavens opened again as we had our meal, and as
the water tumbled from the awnings all around, we were glad to have opted for a
sheltered spot.
Sunday
With almost a full day
at our disposal, we had chance for a good look round town. Heading for the
market and delis to pick up food for lunch, we first walked along the side of
the canal before climbing up to a viewpoint where we sat and read our books for
a while. Pottering round some of the nearby lanes, we began plotting our next
visit.
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| Walking by the canal |
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| Looking over Moissac from the viewpoint |
Back in town, we had
final drinks and eats in the main square. A brass band started playing –
hilariously, outside the Abbey and on the pilgrimage path of the Route St
Jacques, they played a version of Highway to Hell. AC/DC never sounded quite
this way before, nor quite as ironic!
Then back to hotel
ready for pick up and home. We know we will most likely be back again, although we are not sure quite when as yet. This Camino business gets under your skin, and we have plans afoot to do some more. St Jean-Pied-de-Port awaits, then other routes across Europe - more than enough to keep us busy for the foreseeable future!
