Trockener Steg, Gandegghutte, Schwartzsee, Stafelalp & Zmutt
21.67km / 713m Ascent / 1958m Descent
During the second half of the holiday we had enjoyed much better weather, and according
to the forecast another cracking day was in store. So we were up and away quite
early, catching the gondola from Zermatt via Furi to the Trockener Steg (a ski
station on the way up to the Klein Matterhorn).
We had given this walk a recce from the gondola yesterday, and had a
plan of sorts in mind - walk up to the Gandegghutte (3029m), walk back down to
Schwartzsee along the Saumerweg and see what to do after that depending on
time/weather/inclination.
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| On the way to the Gandegghutte |
We had started quite early and made the 25 minute walk from the
Trockener Steg to the Gandegghutte by about 9.45am. The chap was there, but was
closing today for a break before the winter season started at the beginning of
December. Still, he was able to rustle up two coffees, and threw in a couple of
leftover croissants for good measure.
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| Gandegghutte |
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| Sign indicating the continuing path into Italy over the Theodulpass |
This hut is near the Theodulpass, the pass leading over the mountains
from Switzerland into Italy (part of both the Tour du Matterhorn and Tour du
Monte Rosa routes). It looks difficult in that it is snowy, and everywhere all
round seems glaciated, but there is a walking route - clearly signed from the
hut - which presumably offers no fundamental problem to walkers with the right
gear, the right knowledge and a fair forecast.
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| Heading off along the Saumerweg |
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| A last look back at the Gandegghutte, with the Breithorn and Klein Matterhorn behind |
From the Gandegghutte, we almost doubled back on ourselves, and followed
the Saumerweg through rocky terrain. Despite the early sunshine and that of
yesterday, a thin film of ice still existed in one or two places where shallow
puddles lay.
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| Looking down into the Mattertal |
Passing beneath the Trockener Steg, we carried on down to eventually
arrive at Furgg - a small flat space at the top of a ravine where all the
little mountain streams nearby coalesce to form the Furggbach - then made the
last 30 minute slog up to Schwartzsee and a break for lunch. After the quiet of
the Saumerweg, it was noticeably busier here - not entirely unexpectedly given
its proximity to the cable car.
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| Our lunchtime view: I never realised just how cake-shaped the Matterhorn actually is |
With time and good weather on our side, we again had choices - which
way back? Via Stafelalp seemed a good idea, so we set off down the track,
stopping only to watch a helicopter unload construction materials for the new
Hirli gondola.
At Stafelalp, we stopped for a lengthy break, with cake and beers to
consume in lovely surroundings. A final choice then offered up: straight to
Furi and back, or the longer route via Chalbermatten and Zmutt? No contest!
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| The path through the moraine, not in the rain this time |
On
such a fine day, we really wanted to make the most of it, so the long route it
was, and a very good choice too - a few days earlier we had walked some of
these paths in the pouring rain on the way back from the Shonbielhutte.
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| A last look up the valley |
We were back about 6.00pm, and apart from a stroll up the main street (2.0km)
to see what was going on (some kind of organized travel trade fair in the
streets) that was it for the day.
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