Sunnegga 2 Ways: A Gourmet Feast
1) 8.75km / 159m Ascent / 779m Descent
2) 7.61km / 178m Ascent / 731m Descent
It was another wet and windy morning, and we were debating what to do
when we heard that the higher level lifts were all closed because of the winds
(the same, I think, as yesterday).
A bit of quick thinking ensued: why not go up to Sunnegga, walk down
one way, go up again and walk back another way? So that's what we did, and
threw in one of our "must do’s" as well - a gourmet meal at Chez
Vrony.
Blue skies, sunlight, rain & snow - a mixed bag of weather |
Alighting at Sunnegga for the first time, it was immediately clear that
although there were spits of rain in the air, we had picked the right bit of
the valley in which to walk - everywhere else looked terrible!
First off, we picked up a contour path towards Tufteren. Part of the Blumenweg - the flower trail - this was, last time we were here, also the route of the Europaweg, but it appears a recent rockslide has obliterated the path and closed it off. Much work might be needed for restoration, if indeed it is safe to restore it - this area is known for being a bit geologically unstable.
Cowberries |
The section we walked was easy going, with beautiful views across the
valley and interesting plaques about the various flower species. Some were
already over, but others, like the harebells, were still flowering, and the crowberries
were still wreathed in oodles of berries for the birds.
Tufteren |
At Tufteren, we began to descend on a track swinging back and forth across
the hillside as far as Patrullarve, then picked up a track down to Reid, where
we stopped at Ottmar's to avoid the sharp shower that squalled across the
valley, and where we were forced to purchase coffee and apricot cake to take advantage
of the shelter (perfect timing, you might say).
Wild raspberries |
Continuing, we followed a very enjoyable path through woods and across meadows
back to Zermatt and the bottom station of the Rothornbahn, ready to ascend to
Sunnegga once again.
Eggen in the rain - a frontier feel |
Exiting the lift for the second time that day, we were again greeted
with a rain filled atmosphere, which this time turned to proper precipitation.
We headed down past the man made Leisee, passed through Eggen, and dropped into
the area of Findeln known as Ze Gassen, where Chez Vrony is located.
Veal in herb cream sauce, potato rosti & vegetables |
Unusually empty, we took the opportunity to eat at this popular and
renowned restaurant. It may or may not be the best restaurant in the area, but
it certainly good - especially if, like us, you like proper food with a bit of
extra refinement (none of this Cordon Bleu or Nouvelle Cuisine malarky).
Bacon-wrapped meatloaf, fig compote, crushed potatoes & vegetables |
We had a caviar pannacotta amuse-bouche (on the house) to begin with,
main courses, a glass of wine
and coffee and liqueurs afterwards. We had promised ourselves this treat, again
for our anniversary, and enjoyed it thoroughly.
Ze Gassen beneath clearing skies |
Then it was back on the trail – time to walk off these excesses! From
Ze Gassen, we crossed the river and descended to Zermatt on the south side of
the Findelbach.
During our early evening stroll (3.70km) we went to the pictures - just
like our first date! The local cinema shows a couple of films every week about
the history and stories surrounding the Matterhorn - this one, filmed in 1955, follows
the ascent by a young American woman and her local guide - very much of its
time, but very interesting and entertaining too.
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