The End of the Road (For Now ….) – Rua O Pino
to Santiago
Day 12 - Rua O Pino to Santiago: 25.12k / Ascent 554m /
Decent 579m
And so to our final day on the Camino.
After yesterday's long trek, we were expecting to feel tired or to experience
the odd niggle this morning. But not so – we were raring to go as we hit the
road for the last time, with just a modest 15 miles or so to tackle. Later
today, we would walk into Santiago at the end of our pilgrimage - 800k from
Saint Jean Pied de Port where we started our plan a little over 2 years ago.
Eucalyptus woods near San Anton |
We were greeted by another cool and overcast morning, but it was
obvious that the cloud would burn off before too long, just as it had done on most
other mornings. In all honesty, the first few kilometers passed in something of
a blur, my mind experiencing in a decidedly inward focus. Quite why this should
have been, I don’t know: maybe it was simply a time for quiet reflection.
Somewhere on the trail |
We stopped at a bar for coffee and got entwined with a group of
cyclists and a large group from Hawaii, but an expedient restart placed us
between the two groups rather than with them, and after that we managed to have
a fairly quiet run at it.
More eucalyptus woods, gravel tracks, little lanes and minor villages
came and went. We stopped at a church at one point for a stamp, saw a
gorgeously situated cottage ripe for renovation, passed the airport, stopped at
another bar, and took the long climb up through Vilamaior towards Monte de Gozo,
mile by mile homing in on our goal.
On the road near Monte de Gozo |
Monte de Gozo is the point where, traditionally, pilgrims get their
first glimpse of the Cathedral in Santiago and weep for joy knowing they have
nearly made it. We had hoped for a good view and perhaps a reaction of some
kind (if not floods of tears). But to be honest it was a rather utilitarian
spot with an uninspiring modern statue and a very touristy feel - the whole
area having been redeveloped for the visit of Pope John Paul II in 1989. The
famous statue of two pilgrims pointing towards Santiago didn’t seem to be in
evidence (apparently, and somewhat surprisingly, it is not on the route) and
all in all the whole experience was a trifle underwhelming.
Modern statue, Monte de Gozo |
On the upside, though, there was an ice cream seller, so we had one of
those to revive our spirits for the last few kilometers into the city. At the
bottom of a long, steep hill, we reached the suburbs.
Heading down the last hill to the outskirts of Santiago |
Compared with the routes
into some of the towns, this was a pretty reasonable experience, and we followed
busy streets in a beeline for the city centre. Eventually, we neared the end: new
buildings gave way to old, streets narrowed and became flagged, and then there we
were in the main square, right in front of the Cathedral - we'd made it!
In various languages, carved into the paving slabs the quote: "Europe was built on the pilgrim way to Compostela" |
Funnily enough, our first thoughts were of a practical nature. Of all
the reactions to our arrival we might have considered as the miles rolled by, I
don’t think that “practical” would have been top of the list. Emotional,
elated, tired, tearful – maybe: but probably not “pragmatic”. However, we
had been warned that the queue to get Compostelas was always long, and it could
take a couple of hours or more to get our certificates.
So we found the pilgrim's office and joined the queue. The air was
somewhat festive, which helped pass the time, although I found myself with
mixed feelings: half of me enjoying the experience and the other half grumbling
impatiently to myself at the wait. In the end, though, what difference does
another hour make after all this time?
Front entrance to the Cathedral, with Portico looking slightly less "glorious" than usual |
Then it was our turn at the head of the queue, and we were called
separately to a numbered booth in a system not unlike the Post Office. A few
questions and a filled-in form later, and we had Compostelas in our hands and
big grins on our faces.
After all the excitement, it was time to check into our hotel, a nice
little place about a five minute walk from the main square. We had the usual
rest and wash and brush up then popped out for dinner. A selection of tapas at
a bar round the corner might seem a mundane way to celebrate our arrival, but
it was simple and delicious and for that reason absolutely fine by us.
Days 13 to 15 – Santiago Sightseeing
For the first time in many a while, we did some sightseeing!
Yesterday, whilst queuing for our Compostelas, we were invited to visit
Camino Companions, a group dedicated to offering post-Camino advice and guidance
- a sort of detox, if you like - to help pilgrims come to terms with finishing
the walk and adjusting to the real world once more.
Perhaps that sounds like some namby-pamby self-help book, but our chat
with Marion over a proper cup of tea was really lovely. We were introduced to a
new poem, too:
When I Am Among The Trees by Mary Oliver
When I am among the trees,
especially the willows and the honey locust,
equally the beech, the oaks and the pines,
they give off such hints of gladness.
I would almost say that they save me, and daily.
I am so distant from the hope of myself,
in which I have goodness, and discernment,
and never hurry through the world
but walk slowly, and bow often.
Around me the trees stir in their leaves
and call out, “Stay awhile.”
The light flows from their branches.
And they call again, “It’s simple,” they say,
“and you too have come
into the world to do this, to go easy, to be filled
with light, and to shine.”
On a practical note, we gleaned that Pilgrim's Mass was held at midday,
but that we needed to be there at least an hour before the start if we wanted
to get a seat. So we bagged ourselves a seat, and watched as people filed in
and the anticipation rose. Early in proceedings, the countries of all those who
had arrived in Santiago in the last 24 hours were read out, then the service
began.
Altar |
After the address, communion was taken by those who wanted it. Then the
excitement leapt as the eight velvet-robed Tiraboleiros
moved in, carrying hot embers and incense - the Botafumiero was going to swing!
Botafumiero |
To be honest, it’s an amazing sight. A 5ft high, 12½ stone smoking thurible
whizzing through the air just above our heads couldn't help but be an
impressive spectacle, and it really put the icing on the cake as far as the
service was concerned.
Firing up the thurible |
Apparently, it reaches speeds of over 40mph. and is attached by ropes
to a 400-year-old pulley system in the roof. The censer swings back and forth
as the Tiraboleiros pull on the ropes
to create momentum, and everyone hopes the pulley mechanism, ropes and knots
have been properly checked!
Botafumiero in flight |
Censer's working overtime |
Afterwards, we took a look around the rest of the Cathedral and
embraced the statue of St James. Unfortunately, we couldn't see the Tree of
Jesse as the main entrance - the Portico of Glory - was closed for repairs, and
not even available as a tour (in fact, the main facade and one of the spires
are covered in scaffolding and sheeting as repairs are ongoing).
Tomb of St James |
Over the next couple of days, we pottered through the streets, explored
surrounding areas, nosed in the shops, lunched in cafés on the Camino route,
drank coffee, ate pizza and indulged ourselves on tapas.
Gate in the city walls where Via del Plata pilgrims enter |
Several times we bumped into people we had met on the trail (Bruce
& Gus, the New York ladies, Anthony & Orla, the Aussie couple from
Melbourne) and it was great to congratulate each other and catch up. I didn’t
know whether to be surprised by these encounters: on the one hand, all pilgrims
were heading for Santiago; on the other, the chance of coming across familiar
faces amongst the many thousands of people wandering the city streets seems statistically
small.
New York ladies queuing for their Compostelas |
Anyway, it was great to just soak up the atmosphere, and even if the
restoration work had clothed the cathedral in an ugly cloak of scaffolding and
plastic sheeting, it was enough simply to paddle round the streets absorbing
the flavor of the city (an analogy maintained by the discovery of the most
amazing spice and wholefood shop).
Relaxing in the Parque Alameda |
Late on the second afternoon, heavy rain set in. Considering the
reputation of Galicia as the rainy corner of Spain, I guess we had been pretty
lucky – only one afternoon of rain and a couple of mizzly spells whilst out on
the trail, plus this, in two weeks.
Cathedral: view from the Parque Alameda |
We left for the airport with mixed feelings: partly sad to have
finished the walk, partly happy to have achieved our goal. People often claim
the Camino to be a life changing experience, and it’s true – not necessarily as
the result of some Damascene revelation or seismic inner shift, but in the fact
that those 32 days of walking have provided new experiences and memories we
would not otherwise have shared, and offered a chance to really think about everything
and re-focus on the important things in life.
Whatever the upshot, completing a long distance route like this in three
sections proved to be a great success, and something we intend to do more of in
future. The idea of splitting an LDP may seem sacrilegious, but while we are
still working it is the only way we can complete longer routes, and any loss of
momentum caused by the breaks was more than made up for by the extended sense
of anticipation.
All in all, walking the Camino had been a fascinating experience, and completing
this talismanic route has provided a memorable way to mark our 50th
birthdays.
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